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Once Berlin’s most famous Wall crossing, Checkpoint Charlie has devolved into a beyond-tacky tourist draw where (often inaccurately) costumed guards pose for photos and stamp fake GDR passports. Next to it, this museum documents the Wall’s history from its construction in 1961 to its fall in 1989, with an emphasis on East Germans’ escape attempts. The layout may be disorganized, and the owner, Alexandra Hildebrandt, a controversial character—as the creator of 2004’s Freedom Memorial, a tribute to Wall victims consisting of a field of crosses by Checkpoint Charlie, she was accused of insensitivity and historical inaccuracy. But the photographs, newspaper clippings, and attempted escape devices (chairlifts, false passports, hot-air balloons, even a mini-sub) may give you an idea of how much the Wall continues to mean to some Berliners.