This Bologna institution occupies several cozily paneled subterranean rooms just off Piazza Maggiore. Crisply uniformed waiters who seem to have been here since the place began serving in 1948 will lead you through the specialties, which include the house signature dish, tortellini Montegrappa, served in a cream-and-meat sauce. Funghi porcini and truffles appear in many of the classics, including a fragrant veal scallopine in truffle sauce. The kitchen also prepares daily specials with some surprising variations of Bolognese standards, such as spinach tortellini with chicken filling. Meals should begin with a platter of buttery prosciutto and end with a selection of cheeses, all washed down with one of the fine wines from local vineyards. To ensure a table in the cheerful rooms downstairs, reserve for dinner.