This is one of the city’s best smaller museums and a real insider’s secret. Set in the Hôtel de Lalande, a stunning hotel particulier built in 1779, much of the sculpture, furniture, and paintings date from the time of the house’s construction. The excellent modern exhibits include Art Nouveau, Art Deco, and periodic samplings of contemporary design. The coffee shop is really good and in the summer, you can eat in the cobbled courtyard.