St-Emilion
40km (25 miles) E of Bordeaux
Surrounded by vineyards, the village of St-Emilion sits on a ridge overlooking the Dordogne Valley. Aside from its famous wine, the town is a treasure in itself: Ancient alleyways lined with centuries-old limestone buildings, half-timbered homes from the Renaissance era, and pleasant cobblestoned plazas draw visitors from all over the world. Sometimes too many—the town can get clogged with tourists in the summer months. Since most come for the day, the best time to visit is in the late afternoon when they are all leaving, and you can enjoy an early evening glass of red in relative peace.
Essentials
Trains from Bordeaux make the 35-mi. trip to St-Emilion 10 to 15 times per day; the one-way fare is 10.40€. Trains from elsewhere in France require transfers in either Bordeaux or Libourne, a 10-min. train ride from St-Emilion. For train schedules, visit www.sncf-connect.com or call tel. 36-35.
The Office de Tourisme is on place des Créneaux (www.saint-emilion-tourisme.com; tel. 05-57-55-28-28).
Exploring St-Emilion
At the town’s heart is the medieval place de l’Eglise Monolithe, which is brimming with outdoor cafes. From here, a knot of cobbled streets and stone houses beckon with gift shops, wine-tasting rooms, and boutiques.
The Eglise Monolithe, pl. de l’Eglise Monolithe (tel. 05-57-55-28-28), was carved into the limestone side of a small hill sometime around the beginning of the 12th century. The largest underground church in Europe, it is dedicated to a saintly hermit named Emilion who frequented the neighborhood in the 8th century. To get in, you’ll have to take a tour, which also gets you into the catacombs, the 13th-century Chapelle de la Trinité, and its underground grotto—where St-Emilion sequestered himself during the latter part of his life. The 45-min. tour costs 15€ for adults, 12€ for students, 8€ for kids 8–18 and free for children 7 and under.
For a splendid view of the town and its vine-covered environs, climb the 196 steps to the top of the bell tower (clocher) of the Eglise Monolithe. Access to the tower depends on the opening hours of the tourist office, so check there first. More views can be had from the top of the Tour du Roy (tel. 05-57-55-28-28), a 13th-century castle keep (2€ adults, free for children under 6). Open afternoons from February to November, this moody tower offers views of the surrounding countryside—on a clear day you can see the Dordogne River. The tourist office will have the latest opening hours. For more medieval thrills, take a stroll around the crenellated ramparts.
Where to Stay & Eat
Enjoy serene vineyard and countryside views yet be only a 15-minute walk from the center of St-Emilion when you book one of the elegant rooms at Clos 1906, 14 La Gaffelière (clos1906.com; tel. 06-76-69-15-11). Within this handsome 18th-century manor house are four stylish guestrooms, plus an apartment, and all seamlessly combine 19th-century decor with modern furnishings. The gardens are a wonderfully calm place to relax, especially in the outdoor pool. The house also includes an antiques shop, so don’t hesitate to browse around. Doubles from 189€, and there’s free parking and an honesty bar. For lunch or dinner, book ahead at L’Envers du Décor, 11 rue du Clocher (www.envers-dudecor.com; tel. 05-57-74-48-31; daily noon–2pm and 7–9pm; main courses 25€–45€), a popular restaurant and wine bar with a courtyard terrace. Also worth trying is Le Terrasse Rouge, 1 Château La Dominique (www.laterrasserouge.com; tel. 05-57-24-47-05; Mon–Sun noon–2:30pm, Tues–Sat 7:30–9:30pm
), just 5 min. out of town at Château la Dominique, this laid-back bistro has stunning views over the vineyards.
Arcachon & Cap Ferret
40km (25 miles) W of Bordeaux
Arcachon and Cap Ferret are situated at either end of the Arcachon Bay, almost touching each other from either side of the opening to the Atlantic Ocean, but completely different in atmosphere. Arcachon is the once-bustling and now a little sleepy coastal resort that comes with a Casino, plenty of spa hotels and an increasingly smart pocket of hotels based around the town of Pyla (where you can climb Europe’s largest sand dune.) Cap Ferret, on the other hand, is all about understated chic, like a dollop of Cape Cod in Western France. Bordeaux châteaux owners and Parisian bankers have their second homes here, but you’d never know, as the dress code is strictly casual. A lovely shaded bike path runs for 200km (125 miles) between the two, tracing the shoreline of the bay and passing through beaches, pine forests, and over a dozen small fishing villages along the way, each one loaded with oyster huts where you can stop for refreshments. Bike hire is also available at pretty much every village, although it can get busy in the summer.
Where to Stay & Eat
Philippe Starck has created a luxurious enclave in Pyla, with two wonderful if pricey hotels that both offer brilliant dining. The original is perhaps still the best La Co(or)niche, 46 av. Louis Gaume (www.lacoorniche-pyla.com; tel. 05-56-22-72-11; from 510€ double, breakfast included), with incredible ocean and dune views from its chic terrace. This also happens to be the perfect spot for cocktails at sunset.
Note: This information was accurate when it was published, but can change without notice. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.
