Restaurants in Borganes and Reykholt

Hótel Hamar has bragging rights to the area's best restaurant (main courses 2,800kr-5,500kr/$45-$88/£22-£44; AE, DC, MC, V; daily 11:30am-9pm; reservations recommended in summer), with a menu specializing in fish, lamb, and local produce. Grilled salmon and Italian-style bacalao are standbys, and the course of the day -- steamed mussels in a white wine and tomato sauce, perhaps -- at 2,900kr ($46/£23), is a relative bargain.

Other places to consider are Ensku Húsin (tel. 437-1725; daily menu 3,300kr/$53/£26; June-Aug 7-9pm) for a home-cooked set menu, or Mótel Venus (tel. 437-2345; main courses 1,200kr-2,500kr/$19-$40/£10-£20; June-Aug daily noon-10pm, Sept-May 5-9:30pm) for a casual meal of pizza, fish, or lamb.  There’s also Ljómalind market (tel. 437-1400), near the N1 station, which sells farm products from a women’s cooperative, a good place to load up on smoked meats and skyr desserts as well as local handicrafts.