Things To Do in Borganes and Reykholt

Borganes -- Visitors tracing the footsteps of Egil Skallagrímsson, the warrior-poet hero of Egils Saga, should pick up the free "Saga Trail" brochure at the Settlement Center museum; the contents are also posted at www.landnam.is. The museum leads guided tours for groups by arrangement, and individuals can sometimes sign on by calling ahead.

The focal point of Skallagrímsgarður Park, a public garden on Skallagrímsgata downtown, is a burial mound thought to contain the remains of Egil's father and son. Facing the mound is a relief sculpture of Egil on horseback, his face twisted by grief, as he carries his dead 17-year-old son to the burial site. This affecting work is by Danish sculptor Anne Marie Brodersen (1863-1945), the wife of composer Carl Nielsen, and was presented to Iceland by her children in 1963.

Reykholt -- The historic settlement of Reykholt, less than an hour inland from Borgarnes, sits within the fertile, well-forested, and geothermally active Reykholtsdalur Valley. As the former home of chieftain, politician, scholar, and author Snorri Sturluson (1178-1241), Reykholt holds deep cultural resonance for Icelanders. Today the settlement is a cluster of buildings anchored by Snorrastofa, a research institute and museum specializing in medieval Iceland and Snorri's literary works. An 1887 church is charmingly restored, though a 1996 church has taken over its functions, including a classical concert series on and around the last weekend of July (visit www.snorrastofa.is for a schedule).

During the 1986 Reagan-Gorbachev summit in Reykjavík, a step toward ending the Cold War, Icelandic Prime Minister Steingrímur Hermannsson spoke to international reporters while relaxing in a hot tub at his local pool. Likewise, in the early 13th century, Snorri apparently held political powwows at Reykholt in an outdoor bath with crude taps for regulating hot and cold water flow. The exact site of the original Snorralaug (Snorri's Pool) is unknown, but in 1959 the National Museum settled on the current spot and built a reconstruction, 4m (13 ft.) in diameter, with hewn blocks of silica stone and stone piping found during excavations. Next to the pool is an underground passageway, perhaps leading to the basement where Snorri was murdered. Snorralaug is well-marked on maps posted around Reykholt.

Farther Inland -- Hraunfossar (Lava Falls) is a kilometer-long succession of small waterfalls that drape over the lava rock on the north bank of the Hvitá River. The falls originate from cold springs and gush out from beneath trees, creating the impression of a giant water sculpture. From Hraunfossar, a short path leads upstream to Barnafoss (Children's Falls), a raging ravine named for two children swept to their deaths there. Hraunfossar is marked from the southern branch of Route 518, about 18km (11 miles) east of Reykholt.

Plunging into the monstrous Surtshellir lava tube cave is an exhilarating adventure but should not be attempted without good shoes, warm clothes, and a strong flashlight; helmets and gloves are also recommended. Proceed with extreme caution: The cave floor can be slippery or strewn with loose boulders, and the complete darkness can throw off your sense of balance or cause panic. The main tube extends nearly 2km (1 mile), but narrow side passageways are the most fun to explore. To reach Surtshellir, take Route F578 for about 8km (5 miles) from the easternmost point of Route 518. Regular cars should have no trouble reaching the marked parking area, which is a five-minute walk from the cave entrance.

Víðgelmir, a lava cave close to Surtshellir, has particularly dramatic rock, ice, and mineral formations, but can only be accessed on guided tours led by Fljótstunga Farm (tel. 435-1198; www.fljotstunga.is). Tours leave May through September, or possibly on weekends off season. The basic 1-hour tour is 1,200kr ($19/£9.60) per person, with a minimum of four people or 4,800kr ($77/£38); 3- to 4-hour excursions can also be arranged. In 1993, Viking-era artifacts were found inside Víðgelmir, including a fireplace, animal bones (leftovers from an ancient meal), and jewelry now on display at the National Museum in Reykjavík.

From Route 518, east of Reykholt and close to Surtshellir and Víðgelmir, Route 550 cuts southwest through Kaldidalur valley, passing between the glaciers of Ok, Þórisjökull, and Langjökull before joining Route 52, which continues south to Þingvellir. Regular cars proceeding slowly and carefully usually will not encounter problems between mid-June and mid-September. (The road is sometimes mistakenly identified as mountain road "F550," and "F" usually signifies "4WD only.") However, all drivers should beware of sandstorms in high winds. Kaldidalur is recommended to those who will not otherwise experience Iceland's gritty and desolate interior highlands. The road's highest point, at 727m (2,385 ft.) above sea level, is marked by a huge cairn and has a marvelous view of a rhyolite peak to the east.