Planning a trip to Canada

Canada is a vast country -- in fact, it is the world's second-largest nation. This section can save you money, time, and headaches as you plan your visit.

Online Traveler's Toolbox

Veteran travelers visit these sites to make their trips easier. Following is a selection of handy online tools to bookmark and use.

  • Airplane Food (www.airlinemeals.net)
  • Airplane Seating (www.seatguru.com)
  • Foreign Languages for Travelers (www.travlang.com)
  • Maps (www.mapquest.com or http://maps.google.com)
  • MasterCard ATM Locator (www.mastercard.com)
  • Time and Date (www.timeanddate.com)
  • Travel Warnings (http://travel.state.gov, www.fco.gov.uk/travel, www.voyage.gc.ca, or www.smartraveller.gov.au)
  • Universal Currency Converter (www.xe.com/ucc)
  • Visa ATM Locator (www.visa.com)
  • Weather (www.intellicast.com or www.theweathernetwork.com)

Calendar of Events

Canadians love a festival, and not even the chill of winter will keep them from celebrating. The Canadian festival calendar is jammed with events celebrating ethnic cultures, food and wine, historical events and characters, the arts, rodeos, music and theater -- even salmon, lobsters, and whales. Following is a seasonal list of festival highlights from across Canada.

For an exhaustive list of events beyond those listed here, check http://events.frommers.com, where you'll find a searchable, up-to-the-minute roster of what's happening in cities all over the world.

Winter

Winter Carnival (tel. 418/626-3716; www.carnaval.qc.ca) is a celebration of all things winter in Québec City. February.

Festival du Voyageur (tel. 204/237-7692; www.festivalvoyageur.mb.ca) is Winnipeg's celebration of the 18th-century French voyagers who explored Canada by canoe, with music, wine, and winter fun. February.

Yukon Quest (tel. 867/668-4711; www.yukonquest.com) brings hundreds of sled dogs and mushers to Whitehorse, Yukon, for one of the world's top dog-sledding events. February.

Spring

Pacific Rim Whale Festival (tel. 250/726-4641; www.pacificrimwhalefestival.org) celebrates the yearly return of up to 20,000 gray whales to the waters off Tofino and Ucluelet, Vancouver Island. March.

Canadian Tulip Festival (tel. 888/465-1867; http:/tulipfestival.ca) features thousands of tulips in bloom, plus art fairs and concerts, in Ottawa, Canada's capital. May.

Summer

Stratford Shakespeare Festival (tel. 800/567-1600; www.stratfordfestival.ca) presents over a dozen theatrical productions, a mix of Shakespeare and contemporary works, in a delightful Ontario country town. May through October.

Montreal International Fireworks Competition (tel. 514/397-2000; www.internationaldesfeuxloto-quebec.com) is North America's largest fireworks competition, with fireworks makers from around the world competing for Jupiter trophies, the pinnacle of pyrotechnics. June through August.

Calgary Stampede (tel. 800/661-1767; www.calgarystampede.com) is the world's largest and richest rodeo and Calgary's opportunity to celebrate its cowboy past. July.

Vancouver Folk Music Festival (tel. 604/602-9798; www.thefestival.bc.ca) is one of North America's top folk music events, bringing Summer of Love musical stylings to a gorgeous bayside park. July.

RCMP Training Academy Sunset Retreat Ceremony (tel. 306/780-5838; www.rcmp-grc.gc.ca/depot) is a stirring drill practice and flag ceremony with dress-uniformed Mounties plus pipe-and-bugle bands at Regina's century-old RCMP training facility. July through mid-August.

Banff Summer Arts Festival (tel. 800/413-8368; www.banffcentre.ca) is a celebration of classical and jazz music in the heart of the Canadian Rockies. July through August.

International Busker Festival (www.buskers.ca) brings street musicians and performers from around the world to Halifax's bustling waterfront. August.

Newfoundland and Labrador Folk Festival (tel. 709/576-8508; www.nlfolk.com) is a major folk music festival held at the center of St. Johns, Newfoundland. August.

Fall

Toronto International Film Festival (tel. 416/968-3456; www.tiff.net) is a glittering celebration of stars and cinema, and the world's second-largest film festival. September.

Celtic Colours (tel. 888/355-7744; www.celtic-colours.com) is the largest Celtic music and arts festival outside of Britain, held on Cape Breton Island, Nova Scotia. October.

Okanagan Wine Festival (tel. 250/861-6654; www.thewinefestivals.com) celebrates BC's Okanagan Valley's fall harvest with wine tastings, winery open houses, and dining events. October.

Entry Requirements & Customs

Passports

For information on passport requirements for entering Canada, visit the Citizenship and Immigration Canada website at www.cic.gc.ca.

It is no longer possible to enter Canada and return to the U.S. by showing a government-issued photo ID (such as a driver's license) and proof of U.S. citizenship (such as a birth or naturalization certificate). The Western Hemisphere Travel Initiative (WHTI), which took full effect in 2009, requires all U.S. citizens returning to the U.S. from Canada to have a U.S. passport (this includes children under age 18).

In other words, if you are a U.S. citizen traveling to Canada by air, sea, or land, you must have a valid U.S. passport or a new passport card in order to get back into the U.S.

In addition to carrying a passport from their home country, permanent U.S. residents who aren't U.S. citizens must also be prepared to present their Alien Registration Cards (green cards). Also, if you plan to drive into Canada, be sure to bring your car's registration papers and proof of insurance.

An important point: In addition to a passport, any person under 18 traveling alone needs a letter from a parent or guardian granting him or her permission to travel to Canada. The letter must give the traveler's name and the trip's duration.

Although it is rare, immigration officials may prevent the entry of visitors who appear to pose a health risk, those they doubt will be able to support themselves and their dependents in Canada, or those whose willingness and means to return to their home country is in doubt.

Immigration officials can prevent the entry of foreign nationals who have a criminal record. This includes any convictions for driving while intoxicated; anyone with a felony conviction will find it very challenging to enter Canada.

Allow plenty of time before your trip to apply for a passport; processing normally takes 3 weeks but can take much longer during busy periods (especially spring). And keep in mind that if you need a passport in a hurry, you'll pay a higher processing fee.

For Residents of Australia: You can pick up an application from your local post office or any branch of Passports Australia, but you must schedule an interview at the passport office to present your application materials. Call the Australian Passport Information Service at tel. 131-232 or visit the government website at www.passports.gov.au.

For Residents of Ireland: You can apply for a 10-year passport at the Passport Office, Setanta Centre, Molesworth Street, Dublin 2 (tel. 01/671-1633; www.irlgov.ie/iveagh). Those under age 18 and over 65 must apply for a 3-year passport. You can also apply at 1A South Mall, Cork (tel. 021/272-525), or at most main post offices.

For Residents of New Zealand: You can pick up a passport application at any New Zealand Passports Office or download it from their website. Contact the Passports Office at tel. 0800/225-050 in New Zealand or 04/474-8100, or log on to www.passports.govt.nz.

For Residents of the United Kingdom: To pick up an application for a standard 10-year passport (5-year passport for children under 16), visit your nearest passport office, major post office, or travel agency, or contact the United Kingdom Passport Service at tel. 0870/521-0410 or search its website at www.ukpa.gov.uk.

For Residents of the United States: Whether you're applying in person or by mail, you can download passport applications from the U.S. State Department at http://travel.state.gov. To find your regional passport office, either check the U.S. State Department website or call the National Passport Information Center toll-free number (tel. 877/487-2778) for automated information.

Visas

Citizens of the U.S., most European countries, most former British colonies, and certain other countries (Israel, Korea, and Japan, for instance) do not need visas but must carry passports to enter Canada. Entry visas are required for citizens of more than 130 countries. Visas must be applied for and received from a Canadian embassy before arriving in Canada. For more information on entry requirements to Canada, see the Citizenship and Immigration Canada website at www.cic.gc.ca.

Customs 

What You Can Bring Into Canada -- Customs regulations are generous in most respects but get pretty complicated when it comes to firearms, plants, meats, and pets. You can bring in free of duty up to 50 cigars, 200 cigarettes, and 200g (7 oz.) of tobacco, providing you're over 18. Those of age (18 or 19, depending on the province) are also allowed about 1.1L liters (37 oz.) of liquor, 1.5 liters (51 oz.) of wine, or 24 355mL (12-oz.) containers of beer. Dogs, cats, and most pets can enter Canada with their owners, though you must have proof of rabies vaccinations within the last 36 months for pets over 3 months old.

Canada has complex requirements, restrictions, and limits that apply to importing meat, eggs, dairy products, fresh fruits and vegetables, and other food from around the world. You can avoid problems by not bringing such goods into Canada.

As for firearms, visitors can bring rifles for the purposes of hunting into Canada during hunting season. Handguns and automatic rifles are generally not allowed. Fishing tackle poses no problems, but the bearer must possess a nonresident license for the province or territory where he or she plans to use it. For more details concerning Customs regulations, contact the Canada Border Service Agency (tel. 800/461-9999 within Canada or 204/983-3500; www.cbsa.gc.ca).

What You Can Take Home from Canada -- U.S. Citizens: Returning U.S. citizens who have been away for at least 48 hours are allowed to bring back, once every 30 days, US$800 worth of merchandise duty-free. You'll be charged a flat rate of 3% duty on the next US$1,000 worth of purchases. Be sure to have your receipts handy. With some exceptions, you cannot bring fresh fruits and vegetables into the United States. For travelers 18 and older, the $800 duty-free exemption includes the following maximums: 2L (68 oz.) of alcohol, 100 cigars, or 200 cigarettes. For specifics on what you can bring back and the corresponding fees, download the invaluable free pamphlet Know Before You Go online at www.cbp.gov. (Click on "Travel," and then click on "Know Before You Go"). Or contact the U.S. Customs and Border Protection (CBP; tel. 877/227-5511 or 703/526-4200) and request the pamphlet.

U.K. citizens: Returning U.K. citizens have a duty-free customs allowance of £390. This amount includes the following maximums: 200 cigarettes or 50 cigars, or 250g (9 oz.) of tobacco; 4L (135 oz.) of table wine; 1L (34 oz.) of spirits or strong liqueurs (over 22% volume); or 2L (68 oz.) of fortified wine. People under 17 cannot have the tobacco or alcohol allowance. For more information, contact HM Revenue & Customs at tel. 0845/010-9000 (from outside the U.K., 020/8929-0152), or consult their website at www.hmrc.gov.uk.

Australian Citizens: The duty-free allowance in Australia is A$900 or, for those under 18, A$450. Citizens can bring in 250 cigarettes or 250g (8 3/4 oz.) of loose tobacco, and 2.3L (78 oz.) of alcohol (for travelers 18 and older). If you're returning with valuables you already own, such as foreign-made cameras, you should file form B263, which can be downloaded from www.customs.gov.au. A helpful brochure available from Australian consulates or Customs offices is "Know Before You Go." For more information, call the Australian Customs Service at tel. 1300/363-263, or log on to www.customs.gov.au.

New Zealand Citizens: The duty-free allowance for New Zealand is NZ$700. Citizens over 17 can bring in 200 cigarettes, 50 cigars, or 250g (8 3/4 oz.) of tobacco (or a mixture of all three if their combined weight doesn't exceed 250g/8 3/4 oz.), plus 4.5L (152 oz.) of wine and beer, or three 1.1L (37 oz.) bottles of liquor. New Zealand currency does not carry import or export restrictions. Fill out a certificate of export, listing the valuables you are taking out of the country; that way, you can bring them back without paying duty. For more information, contact New Zealand Customs (tel. 0800/428-786 or 09/300-5399; www.customs.govt.nz).

Tips for Families

If you are traveling to Canada with children, you should carry identification for each child. Divorced parents who share custody of their children should carry copies of the legal custody documents. Adults who are not parents or guardians should have written permission from the parents or guardians to supervise the children. When traveling with a group of vehicles, parents or guardians should travel in the same vehicle as the children when arriving at the border. Customs officers are looking for missing children and may ask questions about children traveling with you.

Canada makes an especially great family-vacation destination because of its fantastic national park system and abundance of recreational activities. Destinations such as the Canadian Rockies are especially attractive, as outfitters make it easy to arrange guided hiking, biking, white-water rafting, and horseback riding excursions simply by talking to your hotel's concierge. Destinations on both the Atlantic and Pacific coast provide opportunities to learn to sea kayak or to journey out onto the seas to view marine wildlife, while the prairie provinces feature guest ranches and Old West activities.

Recommended family travel websites include Family Travel Forum (www.familytravelforum.com), a comprehensive site that offers customized trip planning; Family Travel Network (www.familytravelnetwork.com), an online magazine providing travel tips; and TravelWithYourKids.com (www.travelwithyourkids.com), a comprehensive site written by parents for parents offering sound advice for long-distance and international travel with children.

Tips for Travelers with Disabilities

Most disabilities shouldn't stop anyone from traveling. There are more options and resources for disabled travelers than ever before.

A clearinghouse of official Canadian federal government information on disability issues, including those related to travel and transportation, is available from Persons with Disabilities Online at www.pwd-online.gc.ca. The Canadian Paraplegic Association (tel. 613/723-1913; www.canparaplegic.org) can offer advice for mobility-challenged travelers, as well as address issues for those with spinal-cord injuries or with other physical disabilities. From the national website, you can click to find provincial organizations.

Organizations that offer a vast range of resources and assistance to disabled travelers include MossRehab (tel. 800/225-5667; www.mossresourcenet.org); the American Foundation for the Blind (AFB; tel. 800/232-5463; www.afb.org); and SATH (Society for Accessible Travel & Hospitality; tel. 212/447-7284; www.sath.org).

Access-Able Travel Source (www.access-able.com) offers a comprehensive database on travel agents from around the world with experience in accessible travel; destination-specific access information; and links to such resources as service animals, equipment rentals, and access guides.

Many travel agencies offer customized tours and itineraries for travelers with disabilities. Among them are Flying Wheels Travel (tel. 507/451-5005; www.flyingwheelstravel.com) and Accessible Journeys (tel. 800/846-4537 or 610/521-0339; www.disabilitytravel.com).

Flying with Disability (www.flying-with-disability.org) is a comprehensive information source on airplane travel. Avis (tel. 888/879-4273; www.avis.com) has an "Avis Access" program that offers services for customers with special travel needs. These include specially outfitted vehicles with swivel seats, spinner knobs, and hand controls; mobility scooter rentals; and accessible bus service. Be sure to reserve well in advance.

Also check out the quarterly online magazine Emerging Horizons (www.emerginghorizons.com), available by subscription (US$17 per year; US$22 international).

The "Accessible Travel" link at Mobility-Advisor.com (www.mobility-advisor.com) offers a variety of travel resources to disabled persons.

British travelers should visit the website www.tourismforall.org.uk to access a wide range of travel information and resources for disabled and elderly people.

Insurance

Travel Insurance

The cost of travel insurance varies widely, depending on the destination, the cost and length of your trip, your age and health, and the type of trip you're taking, but expect to pay between 5% and 8% of the vacation itself. You can get estimates from various providers through InsureMyTrip.com. Enter your trip cost and dates, your age, and other information, for prices from more than a dozen companies.

U.K. citizens and their families who make more than one trip abroad per year may find an annual travel insurance policy works out cheaper. Check www.moneysupermarket.com, which compares prices across a wide range of providers for single- and multi-trip policies.

Most big travel agents offer their own insurance and will probably try to sell you their package when you book a holiday. Think before you sign. Britain's Consumers' Association recommends that you insist on seeing the policy and reading the fine print before buying travel insurance. The Association of British Insurers (tel. 020/7600-3333; www.abi.org.uk) gives advice by phone and publishes Holiday Insurance, a free guide to policy provisions and prices. You might also shop around for better deals: Try Columbus Direct (tel. 0870/033- 9988; www.columbusdirect.com).

Trip-Cancellation Insurance

Trip-cancellation insurance will help retrieve your money if you have to back out of a trip or depart early, or if your travel supplier goes bankrupt. Trip cancellation traditionally covers such events as sickness, natural disasters, and State Department advisories. The latest news in trip-cancellation insurance is the availability of expanded hurricane coverage and the "any-reason" cancellation coverage -- which costs more but covers cancellations made for any reason. You won't get back 100% of your prepaid trip cost, but you'll be refunded a substantial portion. TravelSafe (tel. 888/885-7233; www.travelsafe.com) offers both types of coverage. Expedia also offers any-reason cancellation coverage for its air-hotel packages.

For details, contact one of the following recommended insurers: Access America (tel. 800/284-8300; www.accessamerica.com), Travel Insured International (tel. 800/243-3174; www.travelinsured.com), and Travelex Insurance Services (tel. 800/228-9792; www.travelex-insurance.com).

Medical Insurance

For international travel, most U.S. health plans (including Medicare and Medicaid) do not provide coverage, and the ones that do often require you to pay for services upfront and reimburse you only after you return home.

As a safety net, you may want to buy travel medical insurance, particularly if you're traveling to a remote or high-risk area where emergency evacuation might be necessary. If you require additional medical insurance, try MEDEX Assistance (tel. 800/732-5309; www.medexassist.com) or Travel Assistance International (tel. 800/821-2828; www.travelassistance.com).

Lost-Luggage Insurance

On international flights (including U.S. portions of international trips), baggage coverage is limited to approximately US$9 per pound, up to approximately US$635 per checked bag. If you plan to check items more valuable than what's covered by the standard liability, see if your homeowner's policy covers your valuables, get baggage insurance as part of your travel-insurance package, or buy Travel Guard's "BagTrak" product.

If your luggage is lost, immediately file a lost-luggage claim at the airport, detailing the luggage contents. Most airlines require that you report delayed, damaged, or lost baggage within 4 hours of arrival. The airlines are required to deliver luggage, once found, directly to your house or destination free of charge.

Tips for Student Travelers

The International Student Travel Confederation (ISTC; www.istc.org) was formed in 1949 to make travel around the world more affordable for students. Check out its website for comprehensive travel services information and details on how to get an International Student Identity Card (ISIC), which qualifies students for substantial savings on rail passes, plane tickets, entrance fees, and more. It also provides students with basic health and life insurance and a 24-hour help line. The card is valid for a maximum of 18 months. You can apply for the card online or in person at STA Travel (tel. 800/781-4040 in North America; www.statravel.com), the biggest student travel agency in the world; check out the website to locate STA Travel offices worldwide. If you're no longer a student but are still under 26, you can get an International Youth Travel Card (IYTC), which entitles you to some discounts. Travel CUTS (tel. 866/246-9762; www.travelcuts.com) offers similar services for both Canadians and U.S. residents. Irish students may prefer to turn to USIT (tel. 01/602-1904; www.usit.ie), an Ireland-based specialist in student, youth, and independent travel.

Money

Prices for goods and services are comparable between Canada and the U.S. -- particularly now that the Canadian dollar has been close to par with its U.S. counterpart for a number of years. On a day-to-day basis, traveling in Canada will cost about the same as traveling in the U.S., as long as restraint is used when making hotel and dining selections. European travelers will find that Canadian prices for comparable goods and services are generally lower than those in their home countries.

Currency

Canadian currency is counted in dollars and cents, just like the currency system in the U.S. However, in addition to pennies, nickels, dimes, and quarters, there are one- and two-dollar coins (there are no one- or two-dollar bills). Dollar coins are bronze-plated coins and bear the picture of a loon -- hence their nickname, "loonies." There's also a two-toned $2 coin, which is sometimes referred to as a "toonie." Paper currency begins with $5 bills.

Exchanging currency is pretty straightforward, particularly if you are changing U.S. dollars into Canadian. Most banks on both sides of the border will exchange U.S. and Canadian currency, even if they don't normally advertise as foreign exchange services. However, the easiest way to procure Canadian currency is simply to withdraw money from an ATM.

Often, Canadian businesses will accept U.S. dollars in payment, making the currency value exchange, if any, at the till.

It's always advisable to bring money in a variety of forms on a vacation: a mix of cash, credit cards, and traveler's checks. You should also exchange enough petty cash to cover airport incidentals, tipping, and transportation to your hotel before you leave home, or withdraw money upon arrival at an airport ATM.

ATMs

The easiest and best way to get cash away from home is from an ATM (automated teller machine), sometimes referred to as a "cash machine" or a "cashpoint." ATMs also offer the best exchange rates. Avoid exchanging money at commercial exchange bureaus and hotels, which often have the highest transaction fees.

The Cirrus (tel. 800/424-7787; www.mastercard.com) and PLUS (tel. 800/843-7587; www.visa.com) networks span the globe. Go to your bank card's website to find ATM locations at your destination. Be sure you know your daily withdrawal limit before you depart. Note: Many banks impose a fee every time you use a card at another bank's ATM, and that fee can be higher for international transactions (up to $5 or more) than for domestic ones (where they're rarely more than $2). In addition, the bank from which you withdraw cash may charge its own fee. For international withdrawal fees, ask your bank.

Credit Cards

Credit cards are a safe way to carry money. They also provide a convenient record of all your expenses, and they generally offer relatively good exchange rates. You can withdraw cash advances from your credit cards at banks or ATMs but high fees make credit card cash advances a pricey way to get cash. Keep in mind that you'll pay interest from the moment of your withdrawal, even if you pay your monthly bills on time. Also, note that many banks now assess a 1% to 3% "transaction fee" on all charges you incur abroad (whether you're using the local currency or your native currency).

Canadian businesses honor the same credit cards as in the U.S. and the U.K. Visa and MasterCard are the most common, though American Express is also normally accepted in hotels and restaurants catering to tourists. Discover and Diners Club cards are somewhat less frequently accepted.

Traveler's Checks

You can buy traveler's checks at most banks. They are offered in denominations of $20, $50, $100, $500, and sometimes $1,000. Generally, you'll pay a service charge ranging from 1% to 4%.

The most popular traveler's checks are offered by American Express (tel. 800/221-7282); Visa (tel. 800/732-1322) -- AAA members can obtain Visa checks for a $9.95 fee (for checks up to $1,500) at most AAA offices or by calling tel. 866/339-3378; and MasterCard (tel. 800/223-9920).

Be sure to keep a record of the traveler's checks serial numbers separate from your checks in the event that they are stolen or lost. You'll get a refund faster if you know the numbers.

All the above companies also offer traveler's checks denominated in Canadian dollars. If you are planning to use traveler's checks frequently while in Canada, there are advantages to buying them in Canadian dollars, as there is usually no fee to reimburse them, and they can be used like cash in most retail situations.

Staying Connected

Telephones

The Canadian phone system is similar to the system in the United States. Canadian phone numbers have 10 digits: The first three numbers are the area code, which corresponds to a province or division thereof, plus a seven-digit local number. Ten-digit dialing (dialing the area code for local calls) is in effect in many parts of Ontario and Québec and all of Alberta and British Columbia. To call a number within the same locality elsewhere in Canada, all you have to dial is the seven-digit local number. If you're making a long-distance call (out of the area or province), you need to precede the local number with 1, plus the area code and seven-digit local number.

Pay phones are easy to find, particularly in hotels and at public transportation hubs. You can use coins to operate the phone (dial the number, then insert coins as directed by the automated voice), or credit cards. It's far cheaper to use prepaid phone cards, which are widely available in pharmacies, gas stations, and post offices. Phone cards are available in various denominations and can be used to make either domestic or international calls. Or you can order virtual phone cards over the Internet on websites such as www.pingo.com and www.zaptel.com; these phone card services are activated immediately and can be "recharged" through the company website.

To Make International Calls -- Dial the international access code 011, followed by the country code (1 for the U.S., 44 for the U.K., 353 for Ireland, 61 for Australia, and 64 for New Zealand), then dial the city code (without the initial 0 for U.K. and Ireland numbers) and then the number.

For Directory Assistance -- Dial tel. 411 if you're looking for a number inside Canada or the U.S. Fees for these directory assistance calls range from C$1.25 to C$3.50. For international directory assistance, dial 00 and ask for the international directory-assistance operator. These calls cost C$7.95 each. It is free to use Web-based phone directories, such as www.whitepages.com or www.anywho.com, to research phone numbers.

For Operator Assistance -- If you need operator assistance in making a call, dial 0.

Toll-Free Numbers -- Numbers beginning with 800, 888, 877, and 866 within Canada are toll-free.

Cellphones

Most U.S. travelers with cellphones will find that their phones will probably work just fine in Canada. Call your service provider to make certain, but nearly all U.S. providers have reciprocal relationships with national Canadian networks. Calls on a U.S. phone using a Canadian network can be expensive, however, usually more than the standard roaming charges incurred within the U.S.

For cellphone users from Asia, Australia, and Europe, the situation is a bit more complicated. The three letters that define much of the world's wireless capabilities are GSM (Global System for Mobile Communications), a big, seamless network that makes for easy cross-border cellphone use throughout Europe and dozens of other countries worldwide. In Canada and the U.S., GSM networks are less common. In the U.S., T-Mobile, AT&T Wireless, and Cingular offer some GSM services; in Canada, Rogers is the dominant GSM network user.

GSM phones function with a removable plastic SIM card, encoded with your phone number and account information. If your cellphone is on a GSM system and you have a world-capable multiband phone such as many Sony Ericsson, Motorola, or Samsung models, you can make and receive calls across civilized areas around much of the globe. Just call your wireless operator and ask for "international roaming" to be activated on your account. Unfortunately, per-minute charges can be high.

For some, renting a phone when visiting Canada may be a good idea. A quick search of the Web reveals many cellphone rental companies that provide service in Canada, including Rogers (tel. 888/764-3771; www.rogers.com), Cellular Abroad (tel. 800/287-5072; www.cellularabroad.com), and Planet Omni (tel. 800/707-0031; www.planetomni.com). Cellphone rental charges range from C$30 to C$35 a week, but fees can quickly mount, as you'll also need to buy a SIM card and pay dearly (up to C80¢ a minute) for both incoming and outgoing calls. To rent a phone, you'll need to contact the rental company in advance of your departure and await the arrival of your phone.

Buying a phone once you arrive in Canada can be more economically attractive. Two of Canada's largest carriers, Rogers (www.rogers.com) and Telus Mobility (www.telusmobility.com) offer pay-as-you-go plans, which don't require users to sign up for lengthy contract plans. Once you arrive at your destination, stop by a local cellphone shop (both Rogers and Telus Mobility have stores everywhere in urban centers; the websites give locations) and ask for the cheapest pay-as-you-go package. You'll need to purchase a phone, but if you resist splurging on a high-end model, these can cost as little as C$50. Pay-as-you-go plans start at C$1 per day, or C25¢ per minute, depending on the plan. Incoming calls are free. The downside is that you'll end up with a non-GSM phone, but you'll be prepared for your next trip to Canada or the States.

Voice over Internet Protocol (VoIP)

If you have Web access while traveling, you might consider a broadband-based telephone service (in technical terms, Voice over Internet Protocol, or VoIP), such as Skype (www.skype.com) or Vonage (www.vonage.com), which allows you to make free international calls if you use its services from your smartphone or laptop, or in a cybercafe. The people you're calling must also use the service for it to work; check the sites for details.

Internet/E-Mail

Without Your Own Computer -- To find cybercafes in your destination check www.cybercaptive.com and www.cybercafe.com.

All major airports have Internet kiosks that provide basic Web access for a per-minute fee that's usually higher than cybercafe prices. Check out copy shops like FedEx Office or UPS Stores, which offer computer stations with fully loaded software (as well as Wi-Fi). Most libraries also offer desktop computers with free Internet access.

With Your Own Computer -- More and more hotels, resorts, airports, cafes, and retailers are going Wi-Fi (wireless fidelity), becoming "hot spots" that offer free high-speed Wi-Fi access or charge a small fee for usage. To find public Wi-Fi hot spots at your destination, go to www.jiwire.com; its Wi-Fi Finder holds the world's largest directory of public wireless hot spots.

Wherever you go, bring a connection kit of the right power and phone adapters, and a spare Ethernet network cable -- or find out whether your hotel supplies them to guests. (Both phone and electrical cables in Canada are exactly the same as the U.S.)

Tips for Travelers with Pets

Dogs, cats, and most pets can enter Canada with their owners, though you must have proof of rabies vaccinations within the last 36 months for pets over 3 months old.

Finding hotels that allow pets is easy with www.petswelcome.com, www.pettravel.com, and www.travelpets.com. Several hotel chains make a point of welcoming pets, including Motel 6, Fairmont, and Westin.

Fast Facts

AAA -- Members of the American Automobile Association (AAA) are covered by the Canadian Automobile Association (CAA) while traveling in Canada. Bring your membership card and proof of insurance. The 24-hour hotline for emergency service is tel. 800/222-4357. Most mobile phones can call tel. *CAA (*222) to reach emergency road service. See www.caa.ca for more. The AAA card also provides discounts at many hotels and restaurants.

American Express -- To report lost or stolen traveler's checks, call tel. 800/668-2639.

Business Hours -- Standard business hours in Canada are similar to those in the U.S., usually 10am to 6pm. It is common for stores to be closed on Sundays, particularly outside of the larger cities and major tourist areas.

Drugstores -- Drugstores and pharmacies are found throughout Canada. As in the U.S., there are a number of national chain pharmacies, including Shoppers Drug Mart and Rexall. In addition, many larger grocery stores in Canada also have in-store pharmacies. Many prescription-only drugs in the United States are available over the counter in Canada, and pharmacists are more likely to offer casual medical advice than their counterparts in the States. If you're not feeling well, a trip to see a pharmacist may save you a trip to the doctor.

Electricity -- Canada uses the same electrical plug configuration and current as the United States: 110 to 115 volts, 60 cycles.

Embassies & Consulates -- All embassies are in Ottawa, the national capital; the U.S. embassy is at 490 Sussex Dr., Ottawa, ON K1N 1G8 (tel. 613/688-5335; http://ottawa.usembassy.gov). The mailing address for the embassy's consular services is P.O. Box 866, Station B, Ottawa, ON K1P 5T1..

U.S. consulates are in the following locations: Nova Scotia, Newfoundland, New Brunswick, and Prince Edward Island -- Suite 904, Purdy's Wharf Tower II, 1969 Upper Water St., Halifax (tel. 902/429-2480); Québec -- 2 rue de la Terrasse-Dufferin (behind Château Frontenac), Québec City (tel. 418/692-2095), and 1155 St. Alexander St., Montréal (tel. 514/398-9695); Ontario -- 360 University Ave., Toronto (tel. 416/595-1700, or 416/201-4100 for emergency after-hours calls); Alberta, Saskatchewan, Manitoba, and the Northwest Territories -- 615 Macleod Trail SE, 10th Floor, Calgary (tel. 403/266-8962); British Columbia and the Yukon -- Mezzanine, 1095 W. Pender St., Vancouver (tel. 604/685-4311).

The British High Commission is at 80 Elgin St., Toronto (tel. 613/237-1530; http://ukincanada.fco.gov.uk), and an Australian consulate general is at Suite 1100, South Tower, 175 Bloor St. E., Toronto (tel. 416/323-3909; www.canada.embassy.gov.au).

Emergencies -- Dial tel. 911 in an emergency.

Holidays -- National holidays are celebrated throughout the country; all government facilities and banks are closed, but some department stores and a scattering of smaller shops stay open. If the holiday falls on a weekend, the following Monday is observed.

Language -- Canada has two official languages, English and French. French is the dominant language in Québec; however, most Québecers can also speak passable English, particularly if they work in the tourism industry. However, it's a good idea to dust off your high-school French if you're traveling to Québec destinations outside of Montréal or Québec City. Not only is it a courtesy to address people in their native tongue, you'll be treated with greater respect if you don't start barking English orders to waiters and hotel staff.

Liquor Laws -- Laws regarding beer, wine, and liquor vary from province to province. In some provinces, all beer, wine, and spirits are sold only in government liquor stores, which keep very restricted hours and are usually closed on Sundays. Alberta and Québec have liquor laws that resemble those in the United States. In those provinces and Manitoba, the minimum drinking age is 18; in all others, it's 19.

Lost & Found -- Be sure to tell all of your credit card companies the minute you discover your wallet has been lost or stolen and file a report at the nearest police precinct. Your credit card company or insurer may require a police report number or record of the loss. Most credit card companies have an emergency toll-free number to call if your card is lost or stolen; they may be able to wire you a cash advance immediately or deliver an emergency credit card in a day or two. Visa's North American emergency number is tel. 800/847-2911 or 410/581-9994. American Express cardholders and traveler's check holders should call tel. 800/221-7282. MasterCard holders should call tel. 800/627-8372 or 636/722-7111. For other credit cards, call the toll-free number directory at tel. 800/555-1212.

If you need emergency cash over the weekend when all banks and American Express offices are closed, you can have money wired to you via Western Union (tel. 800/325-6000 in the U.S. or 800/325-0000 in Canada; www.westernunion.com).

Mail -- Standard mail in Canada is carried by Canada Post (tel. 800/607-6301 or 416/979-8822; www.canadapost.ca). At press time, it costs C57¢ to send a letter or postcard within Canada and C$1 to send a letter or postcard from Canada to the United States. Airmail service to other countries is C$1.70 for the first 30g (1 oz.). Rates go up frequently. If you put a return address on your letter, make sure it's Canadian; otherwise, leave it without. Expect a letter from Canada to take at least a week to reach its U.S. destination.

Measurements -- Canada uses the metric system, though many Canadians still use miles to measure distance and are familiar with other U.S. forms of measurement.

Newspapers & Magazines -- In addition to local newspapers, the Globe and Mail and the National Post, both based out of Toronto, are distributed nationally. Macleans is a Canadian weekly newsmagazine.

Police -- In emergencies, dial tel. 911.

Smoking -- Smoking indoors is much more restricted in Canada than in much of the U.S. or Europe. All of the country's 13 provinces and territories have now passed smoking bans prohibiting cigarettes in the workplace and public buildings, bars, and restaurants. In some jurisdictions, there are even regulations on how closely one can smoke to public entrances to buildings.

Taxes -- Throughout Canada, you will be charged a federal goods and services tax (GST), a 5% tax on virtually all goods and services. In all provinces except Alberta, there is an additional provincial sales tax (PST) of between 5% and 10% added to purchases and financial transactions, and all provinces and some municipalities levy a hotel room tax of up to 5%. Some provinces (Ontario, British Columbia, Nova Scotia, and New Brunswick) instead levy a 12% to 15% harmonized sales tax (HST), which combines their provincial sales taxes with the GST. Some hotels and shops include the GST or HST in their prices; others add it on separately.

As of April 2007, the Canadian government no longer offers GST or HST rebates of hotel bills or the cost of goods you've purchased in Canada.

Time Zone -- Six time zones are observed in Canada. In winter, when it's 6:30pm Newfoundland standard time, it's 6pm Atlantic Standard Time (Labrador, Prince Edward Island, New Brunswick, and Nova Scotia); 5pm Eastern Standard Time (Québec and most of Ontario); 4pm Central Standard Time (northwestern Ontario, Manitoba, and most of Saskatchewan); 3pm Mountain Standard Time (northwestern Saskatchewan, Alberta, eastern British Columbia, and the Northwest Territories); and 2pm Pacific Standard Time (the Yukon and most of British Columbia).

Each year, on the second Sunday in March, Daylight Saving Time comes into effect in most of Canada, and clocks are advanced by 1 hour. On the first Sunday in November, Canada reverts to standard time. The only province that doesn't observe Daylight Saving Time is Saskatchewan.

Tipping -- For good service in a restaurant, tip 15% to 20%. Tip hairdressers or taxi drivers 10%. Bellhops get C$1 per bag for luggage taken to your room; for valets who fetch your car, a C$2 tip should suffice.

Water -- The water in Canada is renowned for its purity. You can drink water directly from the tap anywhere in the country. Bottled water is also widely available.

Sustainable Travel & Ecotourism

Each time you take a flight or drive a car, carbon dioxide (CO2) is released into the atmosphere. You can help neutralize this danger to our planet through "carbon offsetting" -- paying someone to reduce your CO2 emissions by the same amount you've added. Carbon offsets can be purchased in the U.S. from companies such as Carbonfund (www.carbonfund.org) and TerraPass (www.terrapass.org), and from Climate Care (www.jpmorganclimatecare.com) in the U.K.

Although one could argue that any vacation that includes an airplane flight can't be truly "green," you can go on holiday and still contribute positively to the environment. You can offset carbon emissions from your flight in other ways. Choose forward-looking companies that embrace responsible development practices, helping preserve destinations for the future by working alongside local people. An increasing number of sustainable tourism initiatives can help you plan a family trip and leave as small a "footprint" as possible on the places you visit.

Responsible Travel (www.responsibletravel.com) contains a great source of sustainable travel ideas run by a spokesperson for responsible tourism in the travel industry. Sustainable Travel International (www.sustainabletravelinternational.org) promotes responsible tourism practices, issues an annual "Green Gear & Gift Guide," and has a sustainable travel blog.

You can find eco-friendly travel tips, statistics, and touring companies and associations -- listed by destination under "Your Travel Choice" -- at the International Ecotourism Society website, www.ecotourism.org. Ecotourismlogue.com is part online magazine and part eco-directory that lets you search for touring companies in several categories (water-based, land-based, spiritually oriented, and so on).

In the U.K., Tourism Concern (www.tourismconcern.org.uk) works to reduce social and environmental problems connected to tourism and find ways of improving tourism so that local benefits are increased.

The Association of British Travel Agents (ABTA; www.abta.com) acts as a focal point for the U.K. travel industry and is one of the leading groups spearheading responsible tourism.

The Association of Independent Tour Operators (AITO; www.aito.co.uk) is a group of specialist operators leading the field in making holidays sustainable.

When to Go

When to go to Canada depends a lot on what you plan to do when you get there. Although much of Canada lies above the 49th parallel, and therefore has long and often intense winter weather, this isn't particularly a negative if you are going to Canada to ski or snowboard. Although some tourist facilities in small centers are closed in winter, most remain open (after all, Canadians live in Canada year-round and require a full network of services).

Summer, from late June to August, brings the finest weather and not surprisingly, the largest influx of travelers. Prices are highest, accommodations are frequently booked up, and crowds fill the national parks. In many ways, the fall months, particularly September and October, are the best time to travel, as the weather is frequently very pleasant, the crowds have dispersed, and accommodation prices are lower than summer. If you are looking for value, spring is another good time to visit Canada.

The Weather

In Canada's southern reaches, where most of the population lives, the weather is similar as that in the northern United States. As you head north, the climate becomes harsher, meaning long and extremely cold winters, and brief but surprisingly warm summers (with lots of insects).

As a general rule, spring runs mid-March to mid-June, summer mid-June to mid-September, fall mid-September to mid-November, and winter mid-November to mid-March. Pick the season best suited to your tastes and temperament, and remember that your vehicle should be winterized November through March and that snow can fall in the mountains at any time of year. September and October bring autumn foliage and great opportunities for photographers.

Evenings tend to be cool everywhere, particularly on or near water. In summer, you'll need a supply of insect repellent if you're planning on outdoor activities such as hiking or camping.

With the huge size of some provinces and territories, you naturally get considerable climate variations inside their borders. Québec, for instance, sprawls all the way from the temperate south to the Arctic, and the weather varies accordingly. For up-to-date weather conditions and forecasts across Canada, check out Environment Canada's weather center online at www.weatheroffice.gc.ca.

Escorted & Package Tours

Packages are simply a way to buy the airfare, accommodations, and other elements of your trip (such as car rentals, airport transfers, and sometimes even activities) at the same time and often at discounted prices.

One good source of package deals is the airlines themselves, including Air Canada, which offers an array of package deals specially tailored to trim the costs of your vacation. Collectively, these packages come under the title "Air Canada Vacations." This term covers a whole series of travel bargains, ranging from city packages to fly/drive tours, escorted tours, motor-home travel, and ski holidays. For details, pick up the brochure from an Air Canada office or follow the links at www.aircanadavacations.com.

Other airlines offer Canadian package holidays, including American Airlines Vacations (tel. 800/321-2121; www.aavacations.com), Delta Vacations (tel. 800/800-1504; www.deltavacations.com), and United Vacations (tel. 888/854-3899; www.unitedvacations.com).

Several big online travel agencies -- Expedia, Travelocity, Orbitz, and Lastminute -- also do a brisk business in packages. Travel packages are also listed in the travel section of your local Sunday newspaper. Or check ads in national travel magazines such as Budget Travel, Travel + Leisure, National Geographic Traveler, and Condé Nast Traveler.

Ask Before You Go -- Before you invest in a package deal or an escorted tour:

  • Always ask about the cancellation policy. Can you get your money back? Is there a deposit required?
  • Ask about the accommodations choices and prices for each. Then look up the hotels' reviews in a Frommer's guide and check their rates online for your specific dates of travel. Also, find out what types of rooms are offered.
  • Request a complete schedule (escorted tours only).
  • Ask about the size and demographics of the group (escorted tours only).
  • Discuss what is included in the price (transportation, meals, tips, airport transfers, etc.; escorted tours only).
  • Finally, look for hidden expenses. Ask whether airport departure fees and taxes, for example, are included in the total cost -- they rarely are.

Escorted General-Interest Tours

Escorted tours are structured group tours, with a group leader. The price usually includes everything from airfare to hotels, meals, tours, admission costs, and local transportation.

Collette Vacations (62 Middle St., Pawtucket, RI 02860; tel. 800/468-5955; www.collettevacations.com) offers a wide variety of escorted trips by bus and train, including several in the Atlantic provinces, the Pacific Northwest, and the Rockies. A 10-day Fall Foliage tour of Nova Scotia focuses on the stunning colors of Cape Breton Island. Shorter trips explore the Toronto/Niagara area, and some combine scheduled VIA Rail service with bus travel.

Brewster Transportation and Tours (tel. 877/791-5500; www.brewster.ca) offers a wide variety of tours throughout Canada, both escorted and independent. Their offerings include motorcoach and train excursions, ski and other winter vacations, city and resort combination packages, chartered day tours by bus, and independent driving tours. Highlights include a visit to the Columbia Icefields in Jasper National Park, Alberta, and one to Yellowknife, Northwest Territories, to view the aurora borealis.

Travel by train lets you see the Rockies as you never would in a bus or behind the wheel of a car. Rocky Mountaineer Vacations (tel. 877/460-3200; www.rockymountaineer.com) bills its Rocky Mountaineer as "The Most Spectacular Train Trip in the World." During daylight hours between mid-April and mid-October, this sleek blue-and-white train winds past foaming waterfalls, ancient glaciers, towering snowcapped peaks, and roaring mountain streams. The Rocky Mountaineer gives you the options of traveling east from Vancouver; traveling west from Jasper, Calgary, or Banff; or taking round-trips. The company's Sea to Sky Climb train links Vancouver with Whistler while travel to/from Whistler and Jasper via Prince George is a fourth route. There are also packages that include links to the Inside Passage from Prince Rupert to Victoria. Tours range from 2 to 12 days, with stays in both the mountains and cities.

John Steel Railtours (tel. 800/988-5778 or 604/886-3427; www.johnsteel.com) offers both escorted and independent tour packages, many through the Rockies and the west and a few in other regions, which combine train and other forms of travel. VIA Rail operates the train portions of John Steel tours. Packages run from 5 to 12 days, at all times of year, depending on the route, and combine stays in major cities and national parks.

Despite the fact that escorted tours require big deposits and predetermine hotels, restaurants, and itineraries, many people derive security and peace of mind from the structure they offer. Escorted tours -- whether they're navigated by bus, motorcoach, train, or boat -- let travelers sit back and enjoy the trip without having to drive or worry about details. They take you to the maximum number of sights in the minimum amount of time with the least amount of hassle. They're particularly convenient for people with limited mobility, and they can be a great way to make new friends.

On the downside, you'll have little opportunity for serendipitous interactions with locals. The tours can be jam-packed with activities, leaving little room for individual sightseeing, whim, or adventure -- plus, they often focus on the heavily touristed sites, so you miss out on many a lesser-known gem.

Tips on Accommodations

Travelers to Canada are lucky: The quality of hotels and lodging in Canada is very high. In fact, along with the Swiss, Canadians seem to have a natural gift for the hospitality industry.

A national accommodations rating system is in place in Canada. Called Canada Select, it rates lodgings between one and five stars based on the evaluation of independent adjudicators. The system is more prominent in some provinces than in others; it is also completely voluntary, so the absence of stars doesn't necessarily mean that the property is substandard. In fact, the Canada Select program is most popular and meaningful for smaller inns and B&Bs, where an independent evaluation is often reassuring.

Generally speaking, most travelers would be comfortable staying in accommodations with at least three stars. These accommodations may not be fancy, but they will be clean and pleasant. Four-star accommodations are usually top-notch. It's worthwhile noting that the gradations between four and five stars have to do with features that may not directly affect the comfort or pleasure of your stay -- types of curtains, types of door locks, and so on. In other words, you may not even recognize the supposed superiority of a five-star property over one with four stars.

Every Canadian city has a selection of upscale luxury or business hotels. The preeminent Canadian chain of luxury hotels is Fairmont Hotels and Resorts (tel. 800/257-7544; www.fairmont.com), which is the company that now controls many of the historic and utterly fabulous hotels built by the Canadian railroads around the turn of the 20th century. These include a number of hotels that are practically symbols of Canada, such as the Empress in Victoria, the Château Lake Louise, the Banff Springs, and the Château Frontenac in Québec City. These Fairmont hotels have been lovingly restored, but you'll have to decide if their rates are worth it to you -- certainly, a stay at one of these vintage beauties will be a highlight of any stay in Canada (some Fairmont hotels are modern, though of equally high quality).

Many hotel chains familiar from the U.S. and Europe are also found in Canada, including Hilton, Radisson, Hyatt, Ramada, and Westin. An excellent Canadian-based chain of upscale business hotels is Delta Hotels and Resorts (tel. 888/890-3222; www.deltahotels.com). Delta hotels (not related to the airline) are very high quality and are frequently among the top hotels in major Canadian cities and resort towns. A smaller chain of hotels in western Canada is Coast Hotels & Resorts (tel. 800/716-6199; www.coasthotels.com), which also keeps very high standards. As in other parts of North America, the Best Western chain (tel. 800/780-7234; www.bestwestern.com) is well represented in Canada and offers a guarantee of good, midlevel quality.

Canada is also known for its small inns and bed-and-breakfasts. There are many more high-quality B&B inns available than this guide could possibly cover. However, the text usually offers the phone number and website information to contact local B&B organizations. A good Canada-wide clearinghouse for B&Bs is the website www.bbcanada.com.

Another Canadian specialty is its backcountry lodges and country inns. These are sometimes located in remote regions, at the end of a long and bumpy road, or accessible only on foot. However, the lodges found in this guide are rustic in spirit only and offer high-quality lodging and dining in beautiful and remote areas.

Tips for Gay and Lesbian Travelers

Canada is one of the most gay-tolerant travel destinations in the world. Witness the fact that gay marriage is legal in Canada and that the entire nation has nondiscrimination protection for gays and lesbians. While not every rural town is ready for the circuit-party set, most gay travelers will encounter little adversity.

A good clearinghouse for information on gay Canada is the website www.gaycanada.com, which features news and links to gay-owned or -friendly accommodations and business across Canada. Another guide for gay-based travel information for destinations worldwide is www.gay.com.

The International Gay and Lesbian Travel Association (IGLTA; tel. 954/630-1637; www.iglta.org) is the trade association for the gay and lesbian travel industry, and offers an online directory of gay- and lesbian-friendly travel businesses and tour operators.

Many agencies offer tours and travel itineraries specifically for gay and lesbian travelers. San Francisco-based Now, Voyager (tel. 800/255-6951; www.nowvoyager.com) offers worldwide trips and cruises, and Olivia (tel. 800/631-6277; www.olivia.com) offers lesbian cruises and resort vacations.

Gay.com Travel (tel. 800/929-2268 or 415/644-8044; www.gay.com/travel), is an excellent online successor to the popular Out & About print magazine. It provides regularly updated information about gay-owned, gay-oriented, and gay-friendly lodging, dining, sightseeing, nightlife, and shopping establishments in every important destination worldwide. The Canadian website GayTraveler (www.gaytraveler.ca) offers ideas and advice for gay travel all over the world.

The following travel guides are available at many bookstores, or you can order them from any online bookseller: Spartacus International Gay Guide, 35th edition (Bruno Gmünder Verlag; www.spartacusworld.com) and the Damron guides (www.damron.com), with separate, annual books for gay men and lesbians.

Planning An Outdoor Adventure

Outfitters & Adventure-Travel Operators

Most outfitters offer trips in specific geographic areas only, though some larger outfitters package trips across the country. We'll recommend lots of local operators and tell you about the outings they run. We've found a few, though, that operate in more than one region of Canada.

The Great Canadian Adventure Company (tel. 888/285-1676 or 780/414-1676; www.adventures.ca) offers over 40 different types of guided activities and expeditions -- including all of the standards, plus such options as First Nations and Inuit cultural tours, helicopter- or snowcat-transported backcountry skiing and snowboarding, and a submersible excursion -- in every province and just about every nook of the country.

Canadian River Expeditions (tel. 800/297-6927 or 867/668-3180; www.nahanni.com) offers white-water and naturalist float trips in rivers across western and northern Canada, with the South Nahanni River a specialty.

Canusa Cycle Tours (tel. 800/938-7986; www.canusa-cat.com) offers guided cycle tours along some of western Canada's most scenic highways, including the Icefields Parkway between Lake Louise and Jasper.

Ecosummer Expeditions (tel. 800/465-8884 or 250/674-0102; www.ecosummer.com) offers a wide variety of wildlife viewing, sea kayaking, white-water rafting, dog sledding, photography, and other expeditions in British Columbia, the Yukon, the Northwest Territories, and Nunavut. Ecosummer also offers trips to Greenland and Central America.

Black Feather (tel. 888/849-7668 or 705/746-1372; www.blackfeather.com) leads kayaking, canoeing, and hiking trips in British Columbia, the Northwest Territories, Nunavut, Ontario, and Labrador. Some tours are family-oriented, while others are women-only.

An Outfitter vs. Planning Your Own Trip

A basic consideration for most people who embark on an adventure vacation is time versus money. If you have time on your hands and have basic skills in dealing with sports and the outdoors, then planning your own trip can be fun. On the other hand, making one phone call and writing one check makes a lot more sense if you don't have a lot of time and lack the background to safely get you where you want to go.

Transportation & Equipment -- In general, the more remote the destination, the more you should consider an outfitter. In many parts of Canada, simply getting to the area where your trip begins requires a great deal of planning. Frequently, outfitters will have their own airplanes or boats, or work in conjunction with someone who does. These transportation costs are usually included in the price of an excursion and are usually cheaper than the same flight or boat trip on a chartered basis.

The same rule applies to equipment rental. Getting your kayak or canoe to an out-of-the-way lake can be an adventure in itself. But hire an outfitter, and they'll take care of the hassle.

Another option is to use an outfitter to "package" your trip. Some outfitters offer their services to organize air charters and provide equipment for a fee but leave you to mastermind the trip.

Safety -- Much of Canada is remote and given to weather extremes. What might be considered a casual camping trip or boating excursion in more populated or temperate areas can become life-threatening in the Canadian backcountry -- which often starts right at the edge of town. Almost all outfitters are certified as first-aid providers, and most carry two-way radios or satellite phones in case there's a need to call for help. Local outfitters also know the particular hazards of the areas where they lead trips. In some areas, such as the Arctic, where hazards range from freakish weather to ice-floe movements and polar bears, outfitters are nearly mandatory.

Other People -- Most outfitters will lead groups on excursions only after signing up a minimum number of participants. This is usually a financial consideration for the outfitter, but for participants this can be both good and bad news. Traveling with the right people can add to the trip's enjoyment, but the wrong companions can lead to exasperation and disappointment. If you're sensitive to other peoples' idiosyncrasies, ask the potential outfitter specific questions regarding who else is going on the trip.

Selecting an Outfitter

An outfitter will be responsible for your safety and your enjoyment of the trip, so make certain you choose one wisely. All outfitters should be licensed or accredited by the province and should be happy to provide you with proof. This means they're bonded, carry the necessary insurance, and have the money and organizational wherewithal to register with the province. This rules out fly-by-night operations and college students who've decided to set up business for the summer. If you're just starting to plan an excursion, ask the provincial tourist authority for its complete list of licensed outfitters.

Often, a number of outfitters offer similar trips. When you've narrowed down your choice, call and talk to those outfitters. Ask questions and try to get a sense of who these people are; you'll be spending a lot of time with them, so make sure you feel comfortable. If you have special interests, such as bird- or wildlife-watching, be sure to mention them. A good outfitter will also take your interests into account when planning a trip.

If there's a wide disparity in prices between outfitters for the same trip, find out what makes the difference. Some companies economize on food. If you don't mind having cold cuts for each meal of your weeklong canoe expedition, then perhaps the least expensive outfitter is okay. However, if you prefer a cooked meal, alcoholic beverages, or a choice of entrees, then be prepared to pay more. On a long trip, it may be worth it to you.

Ask how many years an outfitter has been in business and how long your particular escort has guided this trip. While a start-up outfitting service can be perfectly fine, you should know what level of experience you're buying. If you have questions, especially for longer or more dangerous trips, ask for referrals.

What to Pack

Be sure that it's clearly established between you and your outfitter what you're responsible for bringing along. If you need to bring a sleeping bag, find out what weight of bag is suggested for the conditions you'll encounter. If you have any special dietary requirements, find out whether you can be accommodated or need to pack and prepare accordingly.

While it's fun and relatively easy to amass the equipment for a backcountry expedition, none of it will do you any good if you don't know how to use it. Even though compasses aren't particularly accurate in the North, bring one along and know how to use it (or consider using a GPS device). Detailed maps are always a good idea. If you're trekking without guidance, make sure you have the skills appropriate to your type of expedition, plan your packing well (with contingencies for changes in weather), and bring along a good first-aid kit.

For all summer trips in Canada, make sure to bring along insect repellent, as mosquitoes can be particularly numerous and hungry. If you know you're heading into bad mosquito country, consider buying specialized hats with mosquito netting attached, or full mosquito jackets. Sunglasses are a must, even above the Arctic Circle. The farther north you go in summer, the longer the sun stays up; the low angle of the sun can be particularly annoying. In winter, the glare off snow can cause sun blindness. For the same reasons, sunscreen is a necessity.

Summer weather is changeable in Canada. If you're planning outdoor activities, be sure to bring along wet-weather gear, even in high summer. The more exposure you'll have to the elements, the more you should consider bringing high-end Gore-Tex and artificial-fleece outerwear. The proper gear can make the difference between a miserable time and a great adventure.

If you're traveling in Canada in winter, you'll want to have the best winter coat, gloves, and boots you can afford. A coat with a hood is especially important, as winter winds can blow for days at a time.

Tips on Dining

Dining habits in Canada are quite similar to those in the U.S. Evening meals are generally eaten between 6 and 8pm. A tip of 15% to 20% is usually expected for good service. The quality of food in Canada is generally quite high; you'll have no problem finding excellent dining options across the country.

Canada is a country of recent immigrants. You can ask locals for recommendations to the best neighborhood Chinese, Lebanese, Pakistani, Jamaican, or other ethnic restaurant. As these restaurants tend to come and go pretty quickly, they may not appear in this guide. However, almost every Canadian city and town has an offering of ethnic restaurants that will provide inexpensive and delicious dining.

Traditional Canadian cooking is often excellent. In Atlantic Canada, this will include wondrous all-you-can-eat lobster buffets in out-of-the-way diners and church basements, while in Québec, it will include rotisserie chicken, smoked beef, and the heart-stopping but delicious fast food called poutine (fried potatoes with cheese and gravy). Out west, Alberta beef is on most menus, and along the Pacific coast, wild salmon and halibut are almost always available in restaurants, right off the boat and absolutely fresh.

However, Canada is also home to a more modern cooking ethic that focuses on organic, locally grown meats and produce, and fresh fish and seafood; unusual meats such as bison and game meats such as venison, elk, moose, and caribou are also common on upscale menus. New Canadian cuisine is frequently excellent. It is intensely dedicated to local products, but it also draws on the combined strength of pioneer cooking, including the traditional cooking of French and British settlers, as well as the subtle cuisines of more recent immigrant communities, particularly from Asia.

If you haven't heard of -- much less tried -- Canadian wines, you're in for a treat. The Niagara area of Ontario is famed for its dessert ice wines, while the Okanagan Valley in British Columbia is home to a burgeoning wine industry featuring excellent vintages made from traditional French varietals. Most Canadian towns and cities also have a number of brewpubs that feature locally brewed beer and ales, as well as flavorful casual dining.

Tips for Single Travelers

On package vacations, single travelers are often hit with a "single supplement" to the base price. To avoid it, you can agree to room with other single travelers or find a compatible roommate before you go, from one of the many roommate-locator agencies.

Travel Buddies Singles Travel Club (tel. 800/998-9099; www.travelbuddiesworldwide.com), based in Canada, runs small, intimate, single-friendly group trips and will match you with a roommate free of charge. TravelChums (www.travelchums.com) is an Internet-only travel-companion matching service with elements of an online personals-type site, hosted by the respected New York-based Shaw Guides travel service.

Many reputable tour companies offer singles-only trips. Singles Travel International (tel. 877/765-6874; www.singlestravelintl.com) offers singles-only escorted tours to places like London, Alaska, Fiji, and the Greek Islands.

Single travelers should also check out Eleanor Berman's classic Traveling Solo: Advice and Ideas for More Than 250 Great Vacations, 6th edition (Globe Pequot), updated in 2008; and No Strings Attached: The Savvy Guide to Solo Travel (Capital Books) by Leslie Atkins.

Visitor Information

In addition to the provincial tourism websites listed below, take a look at the official tourism and travel site for Canada at www.canada.travel. Each of the provinces and territories can provide excellent road maps for free or a small fee:

  • Nova Scotia Dept. of Tourism, Culture, and Heritage: P.O. Box 456, Halifax, NS B3J 2R5; tel. 800/565-0000 or 902/425-5781; www.novascotia.com.
  • Tourism New Brunswick: P.O. Box 12345, Campbellton, NB E3N 3T6; tel. 800/561-0123; www.tourismnewbrunswick.ca.
  • Tourism Prince Edward Island: P.O. Box 2000, Charlottetown, PEI C1A 7N8; tel. 800/463-4734 or 902/368-4444; www.tourismpei.com.
  • Newfoundland and Labrador Tourism: P.O. Box 8700, St. John's, NL A1B 4J6; tel. 800/563-6353 or 709/729-2830; www.newfoundlandandlabradortourism.com.
  • Tourisme Québec: P.O. Box 979, Montréal, QC H3C 2W3; tel. 877/266-5687 or 514/873-2015; www.bonjourquebec.com.
  • Ontario Tourism: 10 Dundas St. E., Ste. 900, Toronto, ON M7A 2A1; tel. 800/668-2746; www.ontariotravel.net.
  • Travel Manitoba: 7th Floor, 155 Carlton St., Winnipeg, MB R3C 3H8; tel. 800/665-0040 or 204/927-7800; www.travelmanitoba.com.
  • Tourism Saskatchewan: 189-1621 Albert St., Regina, SK S4P 2S5; tel. 877/237-2273 or 306/787-9600; www.sasktourism.com.
  • Travel Alberta: P.O. Box 2500, Edmonton, AB T5J 2Z4; tel. 800/252-3782 or 780/427-4321; www.travelalberta.com.
  • Tourism British Columbia: 200 Burrard St., Plaza Level, Vancouver, BC V6C 3L6; tel. 800/435-5622 or 604/683-2000; www.hellobc.com.
  • Tourism Yukon: P.O. Box 2703, Whitehorse, YT Y1A 2C6; tel. 800-661-0494; www.travelyukon.com.
  • NWT Tourism: P.O. Box 610, Yellowknife, NWT X1A 2N5; tel. 800/661-0788 or 867/873-7200; www.spectacularnwt.com.
  • Nunavut Tourism: P.O. Box 1450, Iqaluit, NU X0A 0H0; tel. 866/686-2888 or 867/979-6551; www.nunavuttourism.com.

For general information about Canada's national parks, contact Parks Canada National Office (25 N Eddy St., Hull, QC K1A 0M5; tel. 888/773-8888; www.pc.gc.ca).

City Sites

Internet city guides are a good way to navigate without getting lost in the virtual countryside. Here are some to check out for Canada's top cities:

  • Montréal: www.tourisme-montreal.org (Tourism Montréal)
  • Québec: www.quebecregion.com (Québec City Tourism)
  • Ottawa: www.ottawatourism.ca (Ottawa Tourism)
  • Toronto: www.toronto.com (Toronto.com), www.seetorontonow.com (Tourism Toronto), www.toronto.ca (City of Toronto)
  • Winnipeg: www.tourismwinnipeg.com (Tourism Winnipeg)
  • Saskatoon: www.tourismsaskatoon.com (Tourism Saskatoon)
  • Calgary: www.visitcalgary.com (Tourism Calgary)
  • Banff National Park: www.banfflakelouise.com (Banff Lake Louise Tourism)
  • Edmonton: www.edmonton.com (Edmonton Economic Development Corporation)
  • Vancouver: www.tourism-vancouver.com (Tourism Vancouver)
  • Victoria: www.tourismvictoria.com (Tourism Victoria), www.victoria.ca (City of Victoria)

Tips for Senior Travelers

Mention the fact that you're a senior while traveling in Canada, and frequently you can receive discounted admission prices to cultural and tourist attractions. In most Canadian cities, people over the age of 65 qualify for reduced admission to theaters, museums, festivals, and other attractions, as well as discounted fares on public transportation. It is less common to receive discounts on lodging, though it does happen, so it is worth asking when you make your lodging reservations.

Members of AARP (601 E St. NW, Washington, DC 20049; tel. 888/687-2277; www.aarp.org) get discounts on hotels, airfares, and car rentals, although these benefits are not as widespread in Canada as the U.S; visit the website for CARP (www.carp.ca), the equivalent Canadian association, for information on reciprocal benefits. AARP offers members a wide range of benefits, including AARP: The Magazine and a monthly newsletter. Anyone over 50 can join.

Many reliable agencies and organizations target the 50-plus market. Formerly known as Elderhostel, Road Scholar (tel. 800/454-5768; www.roadscholar.org) arranges worldwide study programs for those aged 55 and over. ElderTreks (tel. 800/741-7956 or 416/588-5000; www.eldertreks.com) offers small-group tours to off-the-beaten-path or adventure-travel locations, restricted to travelers 50 and older.

A recommended publication offering travel resources and discounts for seniors is the quarterly magazine Travel 50 & Beyond (www.travel50andbeyond.com). Alison Gardner's website www.travelwithachallenge.com is a Canadian-based online magazine aimed at senior travelers.

Getting Around

By Car

Once in Canada, drivers will find that roads are generally in good condition. There are two major highway routes that cross Canada east to west. Highway 1 -- the Trans-Canada Highway -- which is largely four-lane, travels from Victoria on the Pacific to St. John's in Newfoundland a total of 8,000km (4,971 miles) -- with some ferries along the way. The Yellowhead Highway (Hwy. 16) links Winnipeg to Prince Rupert in BC along a more northerly route.

Gasoline -- As in the United States, the trend in Canada is toward self-service stations, and in some areas, you may have difficulty finding the full-service kind. Though Canada (specifically, Alberta) is a major oil producer, gasoline isn't particularly cheap. Gas sells by the liter and pumps for anywhere from about C95¢ to C$1.50 per liter, or about C$4 to C$6 per U.S. gallon. (Note that the term "gallon" in Canada usually refers to the imperial gallon, which amounts to about 1.2 U.S. gal.) Gasoline prices vary from region to region, with prices highest in northern regions.

Driving Rules -- Canadian driving rules are similar to regulations in the United States. Wearing seat belts is compulsory (and enforced) in all provinces for all passengers. Children under 5 must be in child restraints. Motorcyclists must wear helmets. Throughout the country, pedestrians have the right of way, and crosswalks are sacrosanct. The speed limit on the auto routes (limited-access highways) is usually 110kmph (68 mph). In all provinces but Québec, right turns on red are permitted after a full stop, unless another rule is posted. The use of handheld cellphones while driving is prohibited in most jurisdictions. Drivers must carry proof of insurance in Canada at all times.

Sample Driving Distances Between Major Cities -- Here are some sample driving distances between major Canadian cities. The distances are calculated based on a particular route, possibly the fastest, but not necessarily the shortest: Montréal to Vancouver, 4,910km (3,051 miles); Vancouver to Halifax, 6,295km (3,912 miles); Toronto to Victoria, 4,700km (2,920 miles); Winnipeg to St. John's, 5,100km (3,169 miles); Calgary to Montréal, 3,710km (2,305 miles); St. John's to Vancouver, 7,625km (4,738 miles); Ottawa to Victoria, 4,810km (2,989 miles). To get driving directions online, check MapQuest (www.mapquest.com), Google Maps (http://maps.google.com), or Yahoo! Maps (http://maps.yahoo.com) and select Driving Directions.

By Plane

Getting around Canada by air is easy, with two major airlines serving the country from coast to coast and dozens of smaller airlines linking out-of-the-way places to larger population centers. For information, contact Air Canada (tel. 888/937-8538; www.aircanada.com) or WestJet (tel. 888/937-8538; www.westjet.com).

In the last decade, Canada has undergone a renaissance in domestic air-travel pricing. It's usually cheaper to fly between Canadian cities than take the bus or train.

By Train

Most of Canada's passenger rail traffic is carried by the government-owned VIA Rail (tel. 888/842-7245 or 514/989-2626; www.viarail.ca). You can traverse the continent very comfortably in sleeping cars, parlor coaches, bedrooms, and roomettes. Virtually all of Canada's major cities (save St. John's, Regina, Calgary, and Victoria) are connected by rail, though service is less frequent than it used to be. Some luxury trains, such as the Canadian, boast dome cars with panoramic picture windows, hot showers, and dining cars. Reduced regular fares are available for students, seniors, and children traveling with adults.

The problem with traveling on VIA Rail, particularly in western Canada, is that the train runs only 3 days a week. If you want to link your visit between destinations in Alberta and British Columbia with a train journey, you may be out of luck unless your schedule is very flexible. Also, if sightseeing and not just transport is part of your vacation agenda, then you may also find that your train journey takes place overnight. Because of the way the train is scheduled in many parts of rural Canada, there's just one schedule per train, so the leg between Winnipeg and Edmonton, for instance, will always be overnight, no matter which train you take.

You can buy a Canrailpass, C$941 in high season and C$588 in low season, giving you seven one-way trips in economy-class in one 21-day period throughout the VIA Rail national network. Seniors 60 and over, students, and children 17 and under receive a 10% discount on all fares. Class upgrades are available for a fee each time you ride. A similar but less expensive package is available for seven one-way trips on the Québec-Windsor corridor (Toronto, Niagara Falls, Ottawa, Montréal, and Québec City) within a 10-day period.

By Bus

While many visitors may not relish the option of traveling by bus while in Canada, in fact, Greyhound Canada (tel. 800/661-8747; www.greyhound.ca) offers far superior service and coverage than does Greyhound in the U.S. Not only are the buses newer and cleaner, and the bus stations better kept up than in the U.S., Greyhound is often the only option for public transport in many parts of Canada due to the relatively minimal coverage by VIA Rail.

Getting There

By Plane

Vancouver (YVR), Calgary (YYC), Toronto (YYZ), and Montréal (YUL) serve as the dominant hubs for international flights and are served by most international carriers, including British Airways, Air France, Qantas, Singapore Airlines, Lufthansa, SAS, and most U.S. airlines. Smaller airports, such as Halifax and Winnipeg, also have international flights, particularly in summer.

Air Canada (tel. 888/247-2262; www.aircanada.com) is the country's largest air carrier, with flights to Canada from all major U.S. cities, as well as South America, Europe, and Asia. Canada's second-largest airline is WestJet (tel. 888/937-8538; www.westjet.com), which flies into the country from major U.S. cities such as Los Angeles, Phoenix, New York, and Orlando.

By Car

Because Canada has the longest open border on Earth, it makes sense that many U.S.-based travelers will consider taking their own car to Canada as a road-trip destination. There are scores of border crossings between Canada and the U.S. (the U.S. freeway system enters at 13 different locations). However, not all border crossings keep the same hours, and many are closed at night. Before you set off to cross the border at a remote location, ascertain if it will be open when you arrive.

In addition to having the proper ID to cross into Canada, drivers may also be asked to provide proof of car insurance and show the car registration. If you're driving a rental car, you may be asked to show the rental agreement. It's always a good idea to clean your car of perishable foodstuff before crossing the border; fruits, vegetables, and meat products may be confiscated and may lead to a full search of the car. Remember that firearms are allowed across the border only in special circumstances; handguns are almost completely outlawed.

Rental Cars -- Canada has scores of rental-car companies, including Hertz (tel. 800/654-3001 in the U.S. or 800/263-0600 in Canada; www.hertz.com), Avis (tel. 800/331-1212; www.avis.com), Dollar (tel. 800/800-3665; www.dollar.com), Thrifty (tel. 800/847-4389; www.thrifty.com), Budget (tel. 800/527-0700 in the U.S. or 800/268-8900 in Canada; www.budget.com), Enterprise (tel. 800/261-7331; www.enterprise.com), and National (tel. 800/877/222-9058; www.nationalcar.com). Nevertheless, rental companies regularly sell out during the tourist season, from around mid-June through August. Therefore, it's a good idea to make reservations as far in advance as possible.

Check out Breezenet.com, which offers car-rental discounts with some of the most competitive rates around. Also worth visiting are Orbitz, Hotwire, Travelocity, and Priceline, all of which offer competitive online car-rental rates.

International visitors should note that insurance and taxes are almost never included in quoted rental car rates. Be sure to ask your rental agency about additional fees for these. They can add a significant cost to your car rental.

Several rental-car agencies offer roadside assistance programs in Canada. In case of an accident, a breakdown, a dead battery, a flat tire, a dry gas tank, getting stuck, or locking yourself out of your car, call your agency's 24-hour number. For Hertz, call tel. 800/654-5060; for Avis, call tel. 800/354-2847; for Dollar, call tel. 800/235-9393; for Budget, call tel. 800/354-2847; for National, call tel. 800/268-9711; and for Enterprise, call tel. 800/307-6666.

None of the above rental agencies enforce a mandatory upper-age cutoff for renting cars to seniors, but individual franchisers can impose their own age limits. The minimum age for renting cars in Canada is usually 21, though rates are high. Standard rates for drivers kick in at 25 years of age.

Members of the American Automobile Association (AAA) should remember to take their membership cards since the Canadian Automobile Association (CAA; tel. 800/222-4357; www.caa.ca) extends privileges to them in Canada.

By Train

Amtrak (tel. 800/872-7245; www.amtrak.com) can get you to the Canadian border, where you can connect up with Canada's VIA Rail (tel. 888/842-7245; www.viarail.ca) system. On the East Coast, Amtrak's Adirondack starts at New York City's Penn Station and travels daily via Albany and upstate New York to Montréal. The Maple Leaf links New York City and Toronto via Albany, Rochester, Buffalo, and Niagara Falls, departing daily from Penn Station. On the West Coast, the Cascades runs from Eugene, Oregon, to Vancouver, British Columbia, with stops in Portland and Seattle. Amtrak-operated buses may also connect segments of these routes.

Amtrak and VIA Rail both offer their own rail passes, which give you 15, 30, or 45 days of unlimited economy-class travel. Remember that the passes don't include meals; you can buy meals on the train or carry your own food.

By Bus

Greyhound (in Canada tel. 800/661-8747, www.greyhound.ca; in the U.S. tel. 800/231-2222, www.greyhound.com) operates the major intercity bus system in Canada, with frequent cross-border links to cities in the U.S. northern tier (many more than what's offered by Amtrak). In general, Greyhound offers cross-border service along routes where the U.S. freeway system enters Canada.

By Ferry

Ferries operate from Maine to Nova Scotia, and from Seattle, Anacortes, and Port Angeles, Washington, to Victoria, British Columbia.

Health & Safety

In general, Canada poses no particular health threats to travelers. Nonetheless, you may want to check your government's travel advisory site for any last-minute alerts.

If you suffer from a chronic illness, consult your doctor before your departure. For conditions such as epilepsy, diabetes, or heart problems, wear a MedicAlert identification tag (tel. 888/633-4298; www.medicalert.org), which will immediately alert doctors to your condition and give them access to your records through MedicAlert's 24-hour hotline.

Pack prescription medications in your carry-on luggage and carry prescription medications in their original containers, with pharmacy labels -- otherwise they won't make it through airport security. Also, bring along copies of your prescriptions in case you lose your pills or run out. Don't forget an extra pair of contact lenses or prescription glasses. Carry the generic name of prescription medicines, in case a local pharmacist is unfamiliar with the brand name.

General Availability of Health Care

Canada's health-care system is similar to that in other Western countries, except that its health insurance for Canadian citizens is managed nationally by the federal government. Hospitals, clinics, and pharmacies are as common as in the U.S. and western Europe. Contact the International Association for Medical Assistance to Travelers (IAMAT; tel. 716/754-4883, or 416/652-0137 in Canada; www.iamat.org) for tips on travel and health concerns in Canada. Travel Health Online (www.tripprep.com), sponsored by a consortium of travel medicine practitioners, may also offer helpful advice on traveling abroad. You can find listings of reliable medical clinics overseas at the International Society of Travel Medicine (www.istm.org).

What To Do If You Get Sick Away From Home

Most Canadian hospitals have emergency rooms open 24 hours for emergency care. In addition, most cities also have walk-in clinics where nonemergency treatment is available. Look in the local Yellow Pages under "Clinics, Medical" for walk-in clinics; these clinics usually take charge cards, though they may be able to bill your private insurance directly. You can also inquire at your hotel, as some hotels have relationships with private practitioners to treat the emergency needs of guests.

Pharmacies are common, and most large cities have at least one 24-hour operation. You'll have no trouble having prescriptions filled; in fact, prescription drugs are substantially cheaper in Canada than in the U.S. Also, certain drugs are available over the counter in Canada that are available only by prescription in the U.S.

In most cases, your existing health plan will provide the coverage you need, though you may need to pay upfront and request reimbursement later. But double-check; you may want to buy travel medical insurance instead. Bring your insurance ID card with you when you travel.

For American travelers, Medicare and Medicaid do not provide coverage for medical costs outside the U.S. Before leaving home, find out what medical services your health insurance covers. To protect yourself, consider buying medical travel insurance.

Very few health insurance plans pay for medical evacuation back to your home country (which can cost US$10,000 and up). A number of companies offer medical evacuation services anywhere in the world. If you're ever hospitalized more than 150 miles from home, Medjet Assist (tel. 800/527-7478; www.medjetassistance.com) will pick you up and fly you to the hospital of your choice virtually anywhere in the world in a medically equipped and staffed aircraft 24 hours a day, 7 days a week. Annual memberships are US$250 individual, US$385 family; you can also purchase short-term memberships.

Staying Safe

Canada is one of the least violent countries on Earth -- at least outside of the hockey arena. Using common sense, most travelers should experience few if any threatening situations during a trip to Canada. In fact, most Canadians are unfailingly polite and helpful.

The weather and wildlife are probably a greater threat to the average traveler than violence from other human beings. If driving in winter, be sure to have winter tires or carry traction devices such as chains, plus plenty of warm clothes and a sleeping bag.

Wildlife is really only dangerous if you put yourself into their habitat: Being in the wrong place at the wrong time can be dangerous. Elk can often seem tame, particularly those that live near human civilization. However, during calving season, mother elk can mistake your doting attention as an imminent attack on her newborn.

Moose are also dangerous, as they are truly massive and, when surprised, are apt to charge first and ask questions later. Give a moose plenty of room, and resist the temptation to feed them snacks. Chances are they will come looking for more. Also be careful when driving in areas where moose are common, particularly at sunset -- if you collide with a moose, you will come out on the losing end.

Bears are the most dangerous wilderness denizens to humans. Canada is home to grizzly bears, one of the largest carnivores in North America, and to black bears, a smaller, less fearsome cousin (unless you're visiting Churchill in late fall or traveling along the polar ice floes, you're extremely unlikely to see a polar bear). Grizzly bears tend to keep their distance from humans, preferring the remote backcountry to inhabited areas. However, black bears can coexist much more readily with humans and, in some ways, pose a more persistent threat. Never come between a bear and her cubs, or stand in the way of a bear's food source. Never hike alone in the backcountry and, if camping, keep food items away from tents.

Dealing with Discrimination

Canada has one of the most open and cosmopolitan cultures in the world and an extremely ethnically diverse population. Gay and lesbian rights are enshrined in federal law. It's unlikely that travelers will encounter discrimination while visiting Canada. It's possible to get into heated conversations regarding U.S. foreign policy, but little discrimination will result from this kind of dispute over political issues.