Anchored on a wide square at the foot of towering La Rocca, the twin-towered facade of Cefalù’s Duomo forms a landmark visible for miles around. Legend has it that Roger II ordered the construction of this mighty church in the 12th century after his life was spared in a violent storm off the coast. In reality, he probably built it to flex his muscle with the papacy and show the extent of his power in Sicily. Inside are more mosaics, and even if you’ve become inured to the charms of these shimmering scenes in Palermo and Monreale, you’re in for a bit of a surprise: This being a Norman church, Christ is depicted as a blond, not a brunette. In his hand is a Bible, a standard fixture in these images of Christ the Pantocrator (the Ruler), with the verse, “I am the light of the world; he who follows me shall not walk in darkness.” Columns in the nave are said to be from the much-ruined Temple of Diana halfway up La Rocca (to inspect the rest of the stony remains, climb to the top of La Rocca).