Cochabamba Attractions

You can also visit the Capilla Cristo de las Lágrimas de San Pedro, a chapel where there is a sculpture of Christ that allegedly cries tears of human blood every Good Friday. There are pictures of what this particular sculpture looked like when it was new (much less blood). The chapel, on the corner of Belzu and Las Heroínas, is open Monday and Wednesday through Saturday from 3 to 6pm.

The Casona Santiváñez, at 158 Calle Santiváñez, is also worth a stop if you're downtown. This old house, restored in 2001 by the municipality of Cochabamba, is now a cultural center. It's home to the Museo de Fotografía Antigua, which has some interesting old photographs of the city. There's also a room devoted to writers, the Museo de Escritores, with letters and photos from Latin American writers. The salons upstairs are worth a peek if they're open (official city functions are held here); they are grand with old colonial furniture. Admission is free and the center is open Monday through Friday from 9am to noon and 2:30 to 6pm.

Historic Churches & Plazas -- Cochabamba was founded in 1574. By walking around the city's plazas and visiting the historic churches, you can travel back in time and feel what it must have been like to live here hundreds of years ago. In Plaza San Sebastián, you can see one of the first houses ever built in Cochabamba. Nearby is the first railroad station built in Bolivia. Plaza 14 de Septiembre is the historic heart of Cochabamba. September 14 is known as Cochabamba Day, when Cochabamba formally became a city. The plaza dates from 1571, and it is most remarkable because it has preserved its colonial archways on all four sides (very few plazas in South America can boast that the buildings on all four sides are original). On this plaza, you can visit the cathedral, which was the first church of Cochabamba. It still has its original baroque facade, and there's a good collection of colonial art inside. Nearby on Ayacucho and Santiváñez is Santo Domingo, which is one of my favorite churches. It's very simple inside (unlike the cathedral), which gives it a majestic air. The wooden doors are from 1612.

Cochabamba Shopping

Cochabamba and the surrounding area are famous for their colorful markets. If you happen to be in town on a Wednesday or Saturday, you must stop in at La Cancha, Avenida San Martín between Tarata and Pulacayo, a huge market where you can find handicrafts, fresh produce, herbs, and just about anything else you could ever want. In the valleys outside Cochabamba, there are also several towns that have authentic markets. Caixa Tours, Esteban Arze S-0563 (tel. 0104/4250-937), organizes day trips to these market towns. Tarata, in the Upper Valley, is a lovely historic village about 1 hour from Cochabamba; market day is Thursday. The market in Punata (about 1 1/2 hr. from Cochabamba) is considered to be one of the best and biggest in Bolivia. It's also one of the least touristy. On Sunday, you should head to Cliza for a taste of real Bolivian cooking. One of the specialties here is baked pigeon. Minibuses to these towns leave from the corner of Avenida Barrientos and Avenida 6 de Agosto; the trip costs Bs7.

Shopping at the local markets can be chaotic. If you're looking for something more tranquil, you should stop by Vicuñita Handicrafts, on Av. Rafael Pabón 777 (tel. 0104/4255-615). Here you can shop for leather goods, tapestries, bags, and ceramic figurines (all handmade!) in the comfort of a private, uncrowded warehouse. For alpaca sweaters, I recommend Casa Fisher on Calle Ramorán Rivero 204.

Cochabamba Nightlife

Cochabamba is a university town with more than 27,000 students. On Friday and Saturday nights, this town is hopping. Most of the trendy bars and cafes are clustered around Avenida España between Colombia and Ecuador. Two of the more happening are Metrópolis on the corner of España and Ecuador and Na Cúnna Irish Pub at Av. Salamanca 577. In Recoleta, there are several bars and nightclubs on Avenida Uyuni, close to La Estancia restaurant. Also, locals come out in droves on the weekends to sip beer and watch the action on the Prado -- there are tons of cafes and places on Avenida Ballivián (Paseo el Prado).