Planning a trip to Cusco
Altitude Acclimatization -- You'll need to take it easy for the first few hours or even couple of days in Cusco -- which sits at an altitude of just over 11,000 feet -- to adjust to the elevation. Pounding headaches and shortness of breath are the most common ailments, though some travelers are afflicted with severe nausea (others may little feel effects of the altitude except when walking up Cusco's steep hills). Drink lots of water, avoid heavy meals, and do as the locals do: Drink mate de coca, or coca-leaf tea. (Don't worry, you won't get high or arrested, but you will adjust a little more smoothly to the thin air.) If that doesn't cure you, ask whether your hotel has an oxygen tank you can use for a few moments of assisted breathing. If you're really suffering, look for an over-the-counter medication in the pharmacy called "Soroche Pills." And if that doesn't do the trick, it may be time to seek medical assistance. Those who think they may have an especially hard time with the altitude might consider staying the first couple of nights in the slightly lower Sacred Valley (near Urubamba, Yanahuara, or Ollantaytambo).
Visitor Information
As the top tourist destination in Peru, Cusco is well equipped with information outlets. There’s a small, occasionally unoccupied branch of the Oficina de Información Turística (tel. 084/237-364) at the Velasco Astete Airport in the arrivals terminal; it’s open daily from 6am to 5pm. The principal Oficina de Información Turística is located at Portal de Harinas 177, on the Plaza de Armas (tel. 084/252-974). It’s open Monday through Sunday from 8am to 8pm. It sells the essential boleto turístico (tourist ticket; see “Cusco’s Boleto Turístico”).
A Safety Note
Cusco on the surface certainly seems to be an easygoing, if increasingly congested, Andean city, and I’ve never found it to be anything to the contrary. In Cusco, as in all of Peru, you’re much more likely to find locals warm and welcoming than threatening. Yet over the years there have been isolated reports of violent muggings (some using the “chokehold” method) on empty streets, as well as reports of rapes, attempted rapes, and other sexual assaults. While I have never had a problem in the city and never met anyone who has, it’s advisable to take some precautions and remain vigilant at all times, as you would anywhere. Incidents of drink-spiking at nightclubs have been reported; be aware of your drinking companions in bars and don’t allow strangers to buy you drinks. Do not walk alone late at night (young women should travel in groups larger than two); have restaurants and bars call registered taxis to transfer you to your hotel. Young people staying in inexpensive hostels should be particularly cautious of hotel visitors and belongings. It’s a good idea to be at your most vigilant, especially in the neighborhoods of San Blas, in the side streets leading off the Plaza de Armas, near the Central Market, and at bus and train hubs; still, robberies and attacks have occurred at the ruins at Sacsayhuamán on the outskirts of the city and even along the Inca Trail.
Getting There
By Plane -- Flights arrive from Lima (1 hr.) as well as Arequipa, Juliaca, and Puerto Maldonado, Peru; Santiago, Chile; and La Paz, Bolivia; at Aeropuerto Internacional Velasco Astete (tel. 084/222-611), 5km (3 miles) southeast of the historic center of Cusco. All major Peruvian airlines fly into Cusco, including LAN (www.lan.com; tel. 01/213-8200); StarPeru (www.starperu.com; tel. 01/705-9000); Avianca (www.avianca.com; tel. 01/511-8222); and Peruvian Airlines (www.peruvian.pe; tel. 01/716-6000). Bolivian airline Amaszonas (www.amaszonas.com; tel. 591/2217-9151) offers flights between Cusco and La Paz. Chilean airline Sky Airlines (www.skyairline.cl; tel. 562/2352-5600) connects Cusco with Santiago. Flights to Cusco are very popular, so make reservations as far in advance as possible during the high season.
Transportation from the airport to downtown Cusco (20 min.) is by taxi or private hotel car. Most hotels, even less expensive hostales, prearrange airport pickup. Taxi fare is officially S/15 to S/20 from the airport to the center.
Making the Connection to Cusco
Flights to Cusco are popular, so make your reservations as far in advance as possible if you are arriving from another Peruvian city. Flights are occasionally delayed by poor weather or are overbooked, and sometimes from Lima it is necessary to go through Arequipa if direct flights to Cusco are sold out. Although it is possible to arrive from North America on an overnight flight that theoretically will put you into Lima in time for an early-morning flight to Cusco, the window is often quite tight, and a fair number of travelers miss their connecting flights. Also, be sure that your travel agent or airline hasn’t inadvertently booked you on a charter, rather than regular, flight to Cusco.
By Bus -- Buses to Cusco arrive from Lima, Arequipa, Puno/Juliaca, and Puerto Maldonado in the Amazon basin. The journey from Lima to Cusco takes 20 to 26 hr. by land; from Puno, 7 to 10 hr.; and from Arequipa, 12 hr. There is no single, central bus terminal in Cusco. Most buses arrive at the Terminal Terrestre, Av. Vellejos Santoni, Cdra. 2, Santiago (tel. 084/224-471), several kilometers from the city center on the way to the airport. Buses to and from the Sacred Valley (Urubamba buses, which go through either Pisac or Chinchero) use small, makeshift terminals on Calle Puputi s/n, Cdra. 2, and Av. Grau s/n, Cdra. 1. For service from Lima, contact the major companies, including Ormeño (www.grupo-ormeno.com.pe; tel. 01/472-5000), Cruz del Sur (www.cruzdelsur.com.pe; tel. 01/311-5050), Oltursa (www.oltursa.com.pe; tel. 01/708-5000), and Transportes Civa (www.civa.com.pe; tel. 01/418-1111). From Puno, Cruz del Sur (see above) and Inka Express (www.inkaexpress.com; tel. 084/247-887) offer daily service to Cusco. From Arequipa, your best bests are Civa and Cruz del Sur.
By Train -- Cusco has two main PeruRail train stations. Trains from Puno arrive at Estación de Huanchaq (also spelled Wanchaq), Av. Pachacútec s/n (www.perurail.com; tel. 084/238-722), at the southeast end of Avenida El Sol. Trains from Ollantaytambo and Machu Picchu arrive at Estación Poroy (tel. 084/581-414) on the outskirts of Cusco. Visitors should be particularly cautious at train stations, where thieves have been known to prey on distracted passengers. Sadly, trains no longer depart from the historic main station in Cusco.
Getting Around
Getting around Cusco is straightforward and relatively simple, especially because so many of the city sights are within walking distance of the Plaza de Armas in the historic center. You will mostly depend on leg power and omnipresent, inexpensive taxis to make your way around town.
By Foot -- Most of Cusco is best navigated by foot, although because of the city’s 3,400m (11,000-ft.) elevation and steep climbs, walking is demanding. Allow extra time to get around, and carry a bottle of water. You can walk to the major ruins just beyond the city—Sacsayhuamán and Q’enko—but you should be rather fit to do so. It’s also best to undertake those walks in a small group and not alone.
By Taxi -- Cusco is crawling with taxis. Unlike in Lima, taxis are regulated and charge standard rates (although they do not have meters). Taxis are inexpensive (S/3–S/5 within the historic core during the day, S/5–S/8 at night) and are a good way to get around, especially at night. Hailing a cab in Cusco is considerably less daunting than in Lima, but you should still have your hotel call a registered taxi when traveling to train or bus stations or the airport, and when returning to your hotel late at night (there have been reports of muggings tied to rogue taxis). Taxis can be hired for return trips to nearby ruins or for a half- or full day. To the airport, taxis charge S/15 to S/20 from the city center; to distant Terminal Terrestre (bus station), they charge around S/10.
By Bus -- Most buses—called variously colectivos, micros, and combis—cost S/1.50, slightly more after midnight, on Sunday, and on holidays. You aren’t likely to need buses often, or ever, within the city, though the colectivos that run up and down Avenida El Sol are also a useful option for some hotels, travel agencies, and shopping markets (taxis are much easier and not much more expensive). A bus departs from Plaza San Francisco to the airport, but it isn’t very convenient. Buses and combis are most frequently used to travel from Cusco to towns in the Sacred Valley, such as Pisac, Calca, Ollantaytambo, and Urubamba. Those buses depart from small terminals on Calle Puputi s/n, Cdra. 2 (via Pisac), and Av. Grau s/n, Cdra. 1 (via Chinchero).
By Train -- The most popular means to visit Machu Picchu and the Sacred Valley sights is by train. PeruRail trains from Cusco to Ollantaytambo and Machu Picchu Pueblo (also called Aguas Calientes) leave from Estación Poroy, a 30-min. cab ride from downtown. Reservations for these trains, especially in high season (May–Sept), should be made several days or weeks in advance. Make reservations online at www.perurail.com or www.incarail.com; also for more information, including trains that travel between Machu Picchu and the Sacred Valley go here.
By Car -- Renting a car in the Cusco region—more than likely to visit the beautiful Sacred Valley mountain villages—is a more practical idea than in most parts of Peru. Rental agencies include Hertz, at the airport (www.hertz.com; tel. 01/445-5716) and Europcar, Calle Saphy 639 (www.europcar.com; tel. 084/262-655). Rates range from $45 per day for a standard four-door to $95 or more per day for a Toyota Hilux four-wheel-drive.
Fast Facts
ATMs/Banks -- Most banks with ATMs are located along Avenida El Sol. Banks include Banco Santander Central Hispano, Av. El Sol 459; Banco de Crédito, Av. El Sol 189; and Banco Continental, Av. El Sol 366. The external ATMs nearest the Plaza de Armas are at Banco de la Nacion, Av. El Sol 226; Banco del Sur, Av. El Sol 457; and Banco Latino, Av. El Sol 395. A few ATMs are also located at the entrances to stores and restaurants on the Plaza de Armas and Plaza Regocijo.
Doctors & Hospitals -- English-speaking personnel are available at Hospital EsSalud, Av. Anselmo Álvarez s/n (tel. 084/237-341); Clínica Pardo, Av. de la Cultura 710 (tel. 084/624-186); MacSalud, Av. de la Cultura 1410 (www.macsalud.com; tel. 084/582-060); Hospital Regional, Av. de la Cultura s/n (tel. 084/223-691); and Clínica Paredes, Lechugal 405 (tel. 084/225-265). For yellow-fever vaccinations, go to Hospital Antonio Loren on Tuesday or Hospital Regional on Saturday from 9am to 1pm.
Embassies & Consulates -- The U.S. consulate is located at Av. El Sol 449 #201 (CuscoACS@state.gov; tel. 984/621-369).
Emergencies -- For general emergencies and police, call tel. 105. For tourist police, call tel. 084/249-654. For fire, call tel. 103. In a medical emergency, go to Hospital EsSalud, Av. Anselmo Álvarez s/n (tel. 084/223-030), or contact Tourist Medical Assistance (tel. 084/260-101).
Internet Access -- Internet cabinas, once everywhere, are fading in the old section of Cusco as free Wi-Fi is everywhere. Rates are generally S/3–S/5 per hour.
Language Schools -- For intensive Spanish courses, try Academia Latinoamericana de Español, Av. El Sol 580 (www.latinoschools.com; tel. 084/243-364); Amauta, Suecia 480 (www.amautaspanish.com; tel. 084/262-345); Amigos, Zaguan del Cielo B-23 (www.spanishcusco.com; tel. 084/242-292); or San Blas Spanish School, Tandapata 688 (tel. 084/247-898).
Mail -- Cusco’s main post office, Serpost, is at Av. El Sol 800 (tel. 084/224-212). A DHL/Western Union office is at Av. El Sol 627-A (tel. 084/244-167).
Massage -- The in-house masseurs at fancy hotel spas, such as the Palacio del Inka, Monasterio, and the Inca Spa, within the Hotel Eco Inn, Av. El Sol 1010 (www.incaspa.com.pe; tel. 084/581-280), are usually your best option for a full-body massage and a clean setting. Among the independent options, the most highly recommended is Ying Yang Massage, Av. El Sol 106 (Galerías La Merced) (yinyang_masajes@hotmail.com; tel. 084/243-592 or cell 084/984-939717), where the rooms are nice and a 1-hr. full-body massage is S/80; hotel visits are also possible for a small supplement. Young women advertising “massage, massage” for as little as $10 (sometimes of dubious quality or intent) are on virtually every street in the old town.
Pharmacies -- Find InkaFarma locations at Av. El Sol 210 and Ayacucho 175; Botica Fasa locations at Ayacucho 220 and Av. El Sol 130.
Police -- The Policía Nacional de Turismo, or National Tourism Police (Saphy 510; tel. 084/249-654) has an English-speaking staff trained to handle the needs of foreign visitors. Or contact iPerú/INDECOPI (Servicio de Protección al Turista, or Tourist Protection Bureau), Portal Carrizos 250, Plaza de Armas (tel. 084/252-974).
Telephone -- Cusco’s area code is 084. The principal Movistar Perú office, where you can make long-distance and international calls, is at Av. El Sol 382–6 (tel. 084/241-114). It’s open Mon–Sat 8am–10pm..
Tour Operators & Travel Agencies -- Cusco is swimming in travel agencies -- several hundred of all sizes, and many that offer almost the exact same packages compete for your attention. Only a few dozen have solid reputations, however, and many should be flat-out avoided. Do not contract any would-be travel agent on the street, and do not hand over money for a trip or package without visiting the outfit in its office. If you have any questions about an agency, particularly one not listed by name and recommended in this guide, do not hesitate to inquire about its reputation in the Tourist Information Office.
Laundry -- Laundromats offering good, rapid service include: Easy Wash, Avenida 28 de Julio (tel. 974/749 188) and Lavandería Inka, Ruinas 493 (tel. 084/223-421).
Maps -- The main tourist information office gives out free maps, and, for most visitors, these should be sufficient. (Cusco is easy to manage and a joy to wander around and even get lost in.) More detailed maps, and maps of the Inca Trail and other hiking trails in the Cusco region, are available at bookstores.
Orientation
City Layout
The Incas designed their capital in the shape of a puma, with the head at the north end, at Sacsayhuamán (whose zigzagged walls are said to have represented the animal’s teeth). This is pretty difficult to appreciate today; even though much of the original layout of the city remains, it has been engulfed by growth. Still, most of Cusco can be seen easily on foot, and walking is certainly the best way to take in this historic mountain city that is equal parts Inca capital, post-Conquest colonial city, and modern tourist magnet. For outlying attractions, such as the handful of Inca ruins that lie just beyond the center of town, taxis or tour buses are the best option.
The old center of the city is organized around the stunning and busy Plaza de Armas, the focal point of life in Cusco. The streets that radiate out from the square—Plateros, Mantas, Loreto, Triunfo, Procuradores, and others—are loaded with travel agencies, shops, restaurants, bars, and hotels. The major avenue leading from the plaza southeast to the modern section of the city is Avenida El Sol, where most banks are located. The district of San Blas is perhaps Cusco’s most picturesque barrio; the labyrinthine neighborhood spills onto cobblestone streets off Cuesta San Blas, which leads to crooked alleys and streets and viewing points high above the city.
Much of what interests most visitors is within easy walking distance of the Plaza de Armas. The major Inca ruins are within walking distance for energetic sorts who enjoy a good uphill hike.
Neighborhoods in Brief
The only neighborhoods most visitors are likely to see are the Centro Histórico (radiating outward from the Plaza de Armas), home to most restaurants, hotels, bars, and tourist services, as well as the main historic sights; artsy Barrio de San Blas, which climbs into the hills just north from the Plaza de Armas, stretching to the Sacsayhuamán ruins overlooking the city and home to many boutique hotels, restaurants, art galleries, and shops; and modern Cusco, the extension of the city along Avenida de la Cultura and Avenida El Sol on the way to the airport, which is the location of a few hotels, banks, and offices.
Hang a Right at Donkey Lips
Cusco is littered with difficult-to-pronounce, wildly spelled street names that date to Inca times. In the bohemian neighborhood of San Blas, though, they’re particularly colorful. Here’s a primer of atmospheric street names and their literal meanings:
Atoqsayk’uchi -- Where the fox got tired
Tandapata -- Place of taking turns
Asnoqchutun -- Donkey lips
Siete Diablitos -- Seven little devils
Siete Angelitos -- Seven little angels
Usphacalle -- Place of sterility/place of ashes
Saqracalle -- Where the demons dwell
Pumaphaqcha -- Puma’s tail
Cajonpata -- Place shaped like a box
Rayanpata -- Place of myrtle flowers
P’asñapakana -- Where the young women are hidden
P’aqlachapata -- Place of bald men
Cusco = Cuzco = Q’osqo
Spanish and English spellings derived from the Quechua language are a little haphazard in Cusco, especially because there has been a linguistic movement to try to recuperate and value indigenous culture. Thus, you might see Inca written as Inka; Cusco as Cuzco, Qosqo, or Q’osqo; Qoricancha as Coricancha or Koricancha; Huanchaq as Huanchac or Wanchac; Sacsayhuamán as Sacsaywaman; and Q’enko as Qenko, Kenko, or Qenqo. You’re likely to stumble across others, with similar alphabetical prestidigitation, all used interchangeably.
