The most important factor to consider in planning a trip to Dubai is the climate. From mid-October to mid-April, while much of the northern world is buttoned up in the cold, Dubai is bathed in sunshine, blue skies, and moderate temperatures. This is high season here, and the time that most outdoor activities and special events occur. It's also the most expensive period.

During the rest of the year, Dubai is hot In summer, it is excruciatingly so. Think of Dubai's seasons in reverse: During the winter months, everyone spends their time outside, and in the summer months, folks stay put in the air-conditioned inside. The one benefit of visiting Dubai during the off-season is that prices drop, and if you're primarily coming to shop in the extravagant malls, the outside temperature may not matter much.

But if you want to spend time at the beaches, theme parks, or in the desert, stay away during the sultry summer months.

Some travelers wonder whether Dubai is affected by the turmoil in some parts of the broader Middle East. The answer is no. Dubai is moderate politically, advanced economically (despite recent debt troubles), and stable socially. The many national and ethnic groups inhabiting and visiting Dubai do so in relative harmony. In fact, Dubai is one of the world's safest cities. The one thing to remember is this is still an Islamic society, and as such there is an expectation that non-Muslims will respect local customs. This means you shouldn't wear provocative clothing or engage in overt public displays of affection in places frequented by Emiratis. Dubai might remind you of a Western resort in some of its beachfront resorts, entertainment spots, and nightlife venues, but at its core it remains a traditional society.

Calendar of Events

For an exhaustive list of events beyond those detailed here, check http://events.frommers.com, where you'll find a searchable, up-to-the-minute roster of what's happening in cities all over the world.

January

Dubai Marathon. The event includes a full marathon, 10km (6.2 miles) road race, and 3km (2 miles) "fun run." People of all ages and backgrounds participate. Cost is AED 370 to register. Late January. www.dubaimarathon.org.

Dubai Shopping Festival (DSF). Roughly 3 million annual visitors come for "DSF," as it's known locally, which takes place for one month between mid-January and February. DSF has evolved into an international tourist extravaganza in which thousands of Dubai retail stores participate with impressive bargains and store giveaways under the theme "One World, One Family, One Festival." Everything is on sale at discount prices and tax free -- gold, jewelry, perfume, haute couture, electronics, handicrafts, textiles, you name it -- and there are numerous raffles and special events. AED 16 million in prizes will be awarded during the 2011 DSF. This is a fun but crowded period in Dubai, when numerous family-friendly events take place around town. www.mydsf.ae.

February

Dubai Pet Show. "Best in Show" has nothing on the Dubai Pet Show, which takes place at Dubai Festival City. Competitions at this popular family event include best pedigree, crossbreed best in show, happiest dog, dog most like its owner, and, the grand finale, best fancy dressed dog. One Saturday in February. www.dubaipetshow.com.

Terry Fox Run. This run, which takes place at locations around the world, commemorates Terry Fox's 1981 "Marathon of Hope." To date, hundreds of millions of dollars have been raised worldwide for cancer research in his name. This non-competitive event welcomes walkers, runners, bikers, and those with wheelchairs. There is no fee to enter. One Friday in February (usually in Abu Dhabi). www.terryfoxrun.org.

Dubai Desert Classic. This PGA European Tour event takes place at Emirates Golf Club and is worth $2.5 million in prize money. www.dubaidesertclassic.com.

Dubai Tennis Open. This million-dollar event is held in the tennis stadium at Dubai's Aviation Club and includes top seeds at the men's and women's tournaments. Late February. www.dubaitennischampionships.com.

Gourmet Abu Dhabi. Top international chefs take over kitchens at Abu Dhabi's finest restaurants for this month-long event. Special tasting menus are offered at eateries throughout town. www.gourmetabudhabi.com.

March

Dubai International Jazz Festival. Within just a few years, Dubai's jazz fest has grown from a simple village event to a major annual attraction. The 2-week festival includes nightly concerts by internationally acclaimed musicians and takes place primarily in Media City. www.dubaijazzfest.com.

U.A.E. Desert Challenge. This thrilling motor-sport event is the World Cup final in cross-country racing. Top rally drivers from around the world compete during the main event in late March. www.abudhabidesertchallenge.com.

Art Dubai. This international art exhibition takes place at the Madinat Jumeirah for four days in mid-March. Over 70 galleries from 30 countries participated in 2010, with various art and poetry events happening alongside it. www.artdubai.ae.

Dubai World Cup. This glamorous event is the world's richest horse race (over $20 million in recent years), with $10 million going to the Group One Dubai World Cup race alone. It takes place at the new Meydan Racecourse and marks the finale of the Dubai International Racing Carnival, a 9-week festival of top-class racing beginning in late February. One Saturday in late March. www.dubaiworldcup.com.

April - May

Boat Racing. April and May bring a host of competitions to the Arabian Gulf, including sailing, traditional dhow, rowing, and powerboat races. For a schedule of events, visit www.dimc.ae.

June - August

Dubai Summer Surprises. Created to lure visitors to Dubai during the sultry summer months, "DSS" lasts for 10 weeks starting mid-June and includes steep shopping discounts and reduced hotel rates. Since kids are out of school, DSS has a particular emphasis on family events, including children's entertainment and educational activities. www.mydsf.ae.

Summer in Abu Dhabi. The capital's own summer program is a carnival in the ADNEC center that features games, sports, and educational activities designed primarily for kids. www.summerinabudhabi.com.

October

Dubai Fashion Week. Regional and international designers present their latest fashions to models, would-be models, critics, and fashion media in this most glamorous of Dubai events. The event has been held in recent years at the Jumeirah Emirates Towers. www.dfw.ae.

October - April

Camel Racing. Camel racing is one of the U.A.E.'s most revered traditional sports. Robot camel jockeys (rather than child jockeys) nowadays prod the desert animals forward at impressive speeds, with races taking place at various locations in the country on weekend mornings starting in October and continuing throughout the winter.

Abu Dhabi Classics. Classic music concerts take place in various venues across the capital, including at Emirates Palace, with performances by international artists and orchestras. www.abudhabiclassics.com.

November

Horse Racing. The racing season starts in November and culminates in late March with the Dubai World Cup. Races take place at Nad Al Sheba Racing Club and Jebel Ali Racecourse, usually on Thursdays and Fridays at 7pm. General admission and parking are free. www.emiratesracing.com.

Abu Dhabi Formula 1 Grand Prix. This high-speed event takes place outside Abu Dhabi at the new Yas Marina Circuit on Yas Island, where Ferrari World is also opening. Month subject to change. www.yasmarinacircuit.com.

Dubai World Championship -- Race to Dubai. Part of the PGA European Tour, the Race to Dubai features nearly 50 tournaments, culminating in the Dubai World Championship at Jumeirah Golf Estates in late November. www.dubaiworldchampionship.com.

December

Dubai Rugby Sevens. Sponsored by Emirates Airlines, this 3-day event starting at the beginning of the month is the first round of the International Rugby Board Sevens World Series. More than 1,750 players take part, with over 130,000 fans attending. The event is enormously popular with Western expatriates living in Dubai, and is accompanied by "Rugby Rock" concerts that liven up the crowd. www.dubairugby7s.com.

Dubai International Film Festival. This weeklong cultural event in mid-December showcases full-length feature movies, shorts, and documentaries from around the world, with an emphasis on Arab cinema. The event continues to grow in prominence and takes place at venues across the city. www.dubaifilmfest.com.

Islamic New Year's Day. This holiday celebrates the Prophet Mohammed's emigration from Mecca to Medina to create the first Islamic state.

Tips for Vegetarian Travelers

It's relatively easy to maintain a vegetarian diet in Dubai. Almost all restaurants across the ethnic gamut offer vegetarian selections. The many Indians living here, most of whom do not eat meat for religious reasons, ensure plenty of vegetarian options in the emirate's often inexpensive Indian restaurants. Other Asian restaurants tend to focus on vegetarian dishes, and in Lebanese and Arabic restaurants, meze (appetizers) are usually meat-free. Some of the best restaurants serving vegetarian dishes are Asha's, Glasshouse, the Noodle House, Thai Chi, and La Vigna. The Lime Tree Cafe is the most popular vegetarian restaurant among Western expatriates living in Dubai.

Getting There

By Plane

Dubai International Airport (www.dubaiairport.com) serves more than 110 airlines from 160 countries. The airport code is DXB, and Dubai International has three terminals, with most international flights scheduled out of Terminal 1 (a free shuttle connects the terminals, which are each about 15 minutes apart). Emirates Airlines is based here.

Dubai International Airport has duty-free shops in the Departure and Arrivals halls, as well as restaurants, car-rental agencies, hotel and visitor information desks, and exchange services. A dedicated lounge for unaccompanied minors and passengers with special needs is available in the Arrivals hall. The five-star Dubai International Hotel (www.dih-dca.com) is also located in the Arrivals hall.

A second airport, Al Maktoum International, is planned for the future.

Abu Dhabi International Airport (www.abudhabiairport.ae) has three terminals, with most international flights clustered around a circular satellite in Terminal 1. The national carrier Etihad Airways is based at the new Terminal 3. The airport code is AUH.

Abu Dhabi International Airport has a hotel, duty-free shops, restaurants, car-rental agencies, visitor information, and exchange services. It also offers banking services, healthcare, and VIP lounges. It can sometimes be less expensive to fly into Abu Dhabi than Dubai, and it's located less than 2 hours away from Dubai by car or bus.

The nearby emirate of Sharjah also has an international airport, serving mostly regional destinations. It's about 45 minutes from Dubai by car, and the airport code is SHJ.

Arriving at the Airport

Immigration & Customs Clearance - International visitors arriving by air must first pass through immigration. It's usually a long walk (10 min. or so) from the jet-way to the Immigration hall. There are over 30 passport control desks. After clearing immigration, visitors then pick up their luggage in the Arrivals hall before clearing Customs. All bags are X-rayed by Customs officials. The process of clearing immigration and Customs at Dubai International Airport is generally efficient, taking less than an hour in total. Most Dubai officials speak at least some English.

In Abu Dhabi, international visitors arriving by air must first pass through immigration. It's a short walk from the jet-way to the Immigration hall. After clearing immigration, visitors then pick up their luggage in the Arrivals hall before clearing Customs. The process of clearing immigration and Customs at Abu Dhabi International Airport is generally efficient.

Getting into Town from the Airport

Many international rental car agencies are located in the airport. You will find them just as you exit Customs and enter the Arrivals hall.

A taxi is the simplest way to get from the airport to Dubai destinations and is relatively inexpensive. The Dubai Transport taxi stand is clearly marked as you leave the Arrivals hall. Expect to pay between AED 50 and AED 100 to most destinations in Dubai, with areas near Dubai Creek costing the least, destinations in Jumeirah costing the most, and spots along Sheikh Zayed Road falling in the middle.

The RTA airport bus (tel. 04-800-9090; www.rta.ae) runs every 30 minutes between the airport and Deira or Bur Dubai. The fare is AED 5.

At Abu Dhabi airport, you'll find many international car-rental companies. Etihad Airways passengers are entitled to free bus transfer to Dubai. Airport taxis into downtown Abu Dhabi cost AED 70 and AED 300 to Dubai.

Staying Connected

Cellphones

Cellphones, mobile phones, or mobiles are common in the U.A.E. Etisalat is the main network provider, and the prefix for calling Etisalat mobiles is 050 (rather than 4, which is the prefix for landlines in Dubai). If your own network provider does not allow roaming while in the U.A.E., you can use Etisalat's Wasel service. This allows you to use a prepaid Etisalat SIM card in your existing phone while in the U.A.E. A second cellphone network called Du (www.du.ae) also offers service in the U.A.E. The prefix for calling Du mobiles is 055. Both Du and Etisalat offer monthly or pay-as-you-go mobile service.

Internet & E-mail

Internet access is widely available in Dubai, although it's also censored with a proxy server used to filter out sites considered inappropriate or offensive to U.A.E. religious, cultural, or social values. Emirates Internet and Multimedia (EIM) is responsible for Internet services in the country. Most Dubai accommodations have Internet access, and Wi-Fi is common in international hotels, but if you can't get service, you can connect to EIM's "Dial and Surf" service through your computer's modem using a regular phone or ISDN line. Just dial tel. 04-500-5555 to gain access, and the fee will be billed to the phone line you are using. Call the EIM help desk (tel. 800-6100) for more information.

Most Dubai hotels offer Internet access, including business centers with computers. Al Matrix.com Café (tel. 4/343-0000) lies in the Metropolitan Hotel on Sheikh Zayed Road and is open from 10am to midnight. Formula One Net Café (tel. 4/345-1232), in the Palm Strip shopping mall on Jumeirah Beach Road, is open from 10am to 10pm. The Coffee Bean (tel. 4/282-4122) offers Internet access at the Aviation Club in Al Garhoud, and is open from 7am to 11pm. WorldNet Internet Café (tel. 4/332-2913) lies in the Holiday Center on Sheikh Zayed Road and is open from 10am to 11pm.

Telephones

Etisalat (www.etisalat.ae) is the U.A.E.'s main telecommunications provider. A second provider, Du (www.du.ae), also offers service. Local calls in Dubai are free, except to cellphones. Direct dialing is possible to most countries. Pay phones are common in Dubai, and require prepaid phone cards widely available in supermarkets, gas stations, and other shops.

The international country code for the U.A.E. is 971, and the city code for Dubai is 4. To call the U.A.E./Dubai:

  • 1. Dial the international access code: 011 in the U.S., 00 in the U.K., for example.
  • 2. Dial the country code: 971 for the U.A.E.
  • 3. Dial the city code: 4 for Dubai, and then dial the number.

To call within the U.A.E.: For calls within Dubai, omit the city code. For calls to other emirates, first dial 0 and then the city code: 2 for Abu Dhabi, 3 for Al Ain, and 6 for Sharjah. For calls to Etisalat cellphones, it is necessary to dial first 050. For calls to Du cellphones, it's necessary to dial first 055.

To make international calls: Dial 00 to get an international line, followed by the country code and the phone number.

For directory assistance: Dial 181 for Etisalat, and 199 for Du.

For an operator: Dial 100.

When to Go

The most important question to ask before traveling to Dubai is, "How hot is it?" From mid-October to mid-April, Dubai's weather is ideal with moderate temperatures and blue skies. From mid-April to mid-October, the climate becomes less bearable, with temperatures routinely exceeding 100°F (37°C) and humidity often hitting 95% or more from June through September. It's only slightly less hot and humid in the immediate surrounding months.

Another question to consider is whether to visit during Ramadan (the dates for which change each year based on the Islamic calendar). It's a fascinating period in Dubai but one in which businesses often have limited hours during the day, many restaurants don't open until night, and the majority of bars and nightclubs remain closed. Ramadan will take place in August in 2011 and 2012, which coincides with the hottest months of the year.

Peak Travel Seasons -- October to May is high season, with December and January the busiest months. Hotels also fill up for the Dubai Shopping Festival in February and the Dubai World Cup in March. The city is somewhat quieter during the heat of summer, when hotels and many other hospitality services reduce prices in order to lure more visitors.

Climate -- Dubai has a sub-tropical, arid climate and is sunny most of the year. Rainfall is infrequent, falling only in the winter months. The city is ill-prepared for downpours, and when they happen, chaos on the roads ensues but is short-lived. Flash floods are possible in the wadis (desert oases). Temperatures range from a low of 50°F (10°C) in January and February to a high of 120°F (49°C) in July and August. Even the sea is hot in summer, approaching 100°F (37°C). It's usually too hot to sit outside in the summer months, except in swimming pools that actually have to be cooled so they don't turn into nature-made Jacuzzis. Sandstorms are most common in March and April, but can occur whenever the wind kicks up.

Tips for Travelers with Disabilities

Dubai continues to improve services for travelers needing special assistance. Most public places have disabled parking and elevators rather than just stairs, shopping centers have wheelchair access, and many international hotels offer guest rooms and other facilities for disabled travelers. These include City Centre Hotel, Crowne Plaza Dubai, Hilton International Dubai, Hyatt Regency Dubai, Jebel Ali Hotel & Golf Resort, Jumeirah Beach Hotel, JW Marriott Hotel, Metropolitan Palace Hotel, Oasis Beach Hotel, Jumeirah Beach Hotel, and the Ritz-Carlton Dubai, among others.

The Dubai International Airport has dedicated desks between rows A and B in the Departures hall for passengers with special needs. Electric carts are available to shuttle passengers to and from the Sheikh Rashid Departures concourse, where there are special lounges for disabled travelers near gates 9 and 22. There's a dedicated lounge for disabled travelers in the Arrivals hall, and the Dubai International Airport Hotel has guest rooms for disabled passengers, as well. Dubai Taxi Corporation (tel. 04-264-1111; http://dtc.dubai.ae) has a couple of specially designed vans with lifts for visitors needing assistance, including with wheelchairs, and the service can be ordered in advance. For more information about wheelchair-accessible locations and other services for travelers with special needs, visit the "Simply Accessible" section of www.dubaitourism.co.ae.

Health & Safety

General Availability of Healthcare

Modern medical care and medicines are widely available in Dubai and the U.A.E.'s other principal cities, but may not be in outlying areas. Your hotel concierge or consulate is also a good place for a list of recommended doctors and specialists.

Dubai's healthcare network includes four government hospitals that provide care at relatively low costs, and a number of expensive private hospitals and medical clinics. Emergency care in the government hospitals is free regardless of nationality.

Dubai Healthcare City (www.dhcc.ae) aims to become the preeminent healthcare services center in the region. It's designed as an integrated center for clinical and wellness services, medical education, and research. It includes a network of hospitals, clinics, doctors, pharmacies, and wellness centers.

Some general tips: Take a sufficient supply of your prescription medicines and we recommend you carry a copy of the prescriptions or a letter from your doctor, and write down the generic names of those prescription drugs. Non-prescription medicines that travelers should consider packing include aspirin or other pain reliever, antihistamine, Imodium or other anti-diarrheal, rehydration mixture, antiseptic, multivitamins, bandages, sunscreen, and lip balm. It's also wise to take a spare pair of glasses and contact lenses with you.

Regional Health Concerns

Bugs, Bites & Other Wildlife Concerns -- There are few mosquitoes in the city of Dubai. Mosquitoes are more common near Dubai Creek and wadis, the desert streams (oases) that fill after the rains, and around date groves. They're most likely to find you in the evening if you're camping in the desert. There's no risk of malaria in the U.A.E.

There have been sightings of the Australian redback spider in Dubai, which is a potentially lethal but non-aggressive insect similar to the black widow. They seldom leave their webs and bites are uncommon. Antivenin is available.

Dietary Red Flags -- Food is generally safe throughout Dubai. Be cautious about eating raw salads and shawarmas (meat cooked on a spit and served in a pita) in older cafes and restaurants in the old quarter (Deira and Bur Dubai). The city's tap water is potable, but many people prefer to drink bottled water.

Respiratory Illnesses -- Respiratory illnesses are common in Dubai and elsewhere in the Gulf. One in three people suffer from allergies here, triggered by pollution, airborne dust, and sand.

Sun/Elements/Extreme Weather Exposure -- Dubai's sun is extremely intense. The UV rays are most dangerous from May to September, which are the hottest months. Avoid excessive sun exposure, especially when visiting the beach. Adequate sunscreens, sunglasses, and some form of head protection (such as a hat or visor) are important. Heat stroke and heat exhaustion are always a risk in high temperatures. It's important to drink plenty of water, and try to stay out of the sun during the middle of the day.

If You Get Sick

The most frequented hospitals among Western expatriates and visitors are the American Hospital and Welcare Hospital. They have extensive inpatient and outpatient services and English-speaking doctors. Check with your insurance company before receiving treatment to ensure coverage. You may need to pay all medical costs upfront and be reimbursed later. Note that emergency services are free regardless of nationality at all U.A.E. government hospitals (such as Al Wasl, Al Bahra, Al Maktoum, Rashid, and Dubai Hospital), but not in private hospitals.

Your hotel concierge or consulate is also a good place for a list of recommended doctors and specialists. English-speaking physicians are easy to find. Generic equivalents of common prescription drugs are generally available in Dubai. For a list of 24-hour pharmacies in Dubai (which rotate on a daily basis), visit the pharmacy section of www.doctor-dubai.com or call Life Pharmacy at tel. 04-344-1122.

Crime & Safety

Crime is generally not a problem for travelers to the U.A.E. That said, you should not leave wallets, purses, or credit cards unattended. Pick-pocketing has been reported in the souk areas. Although vehicle break-ins are uncommon, travelers should ensure that unattended vehicles are locked and valuables are not left so they're easily visible.

Traffic accidents are a leading cause of injury and death in the U.A.E.. Drinking and driving is illegal no matter how little alcohol is consumed, and doing so will result in jail and stiff fines. Drinking in public places not licensed for alcohol will also result in fines. Drug importation, drug use, and even being involved in drugs by association will result in jail. Pornography is also illegal.

Women should face relatively few safety concerns in Dubai. In contrast with some countries in the region, women enjoy the same rights as men and can dress as they please. However, some modesty in dress is preferred out of respect for the local culture and to avoid unwanted attention.

There have been isolated reports of harassment of tourists and cases involving assault of expatriate women in Abu Dhabi in and round the underground pedestrian walkways near the Abu Dhabi Corniche. Taxi passengers should avoid sitting in the front seat of a taxicab and should be sensitive that "small talk" can be misinterpreted as over-friendliness or even a form of propositioning by some taxi drivers.

As a result of broader turmoil in the Middle East, national governments recommend you register if you are staying in the U.A.E. For U.K. visitors, register online at www.ukinuae.fco.gov.uk. For U.S. visitors, register using the following website: travelregistration.state.gov. We recommend citizens from other countries also register with their respective embassies or consulates.

In addition, for U.S. visitors, the State Department offers the following specific guidance: "Americans in the United Arab Emirates should exercise a high level of security awareness. The Department of State remains concerned about the global threat of terrorism, including the possibility of terrorist attacks against U.S. citizens and interests in the Gulf and Arabian Peninsula. Both historical and current information suggest that al-Qa'ida and affiliated organizations continue to plan attacks against Western targets; these attacks may employ a wide variety of tactics including suicide operations, assassination, kidnapping, hijacking, and bombing. Americans should maintain a low profile, vary routes and times for all required travel, and treat mail and packages from unfamiliar sources with caution."

For the latest information on travel to the U.A.E. (and other international destinations), visit www.travel.state.gov (U.S.) or www.fco.gov.uk.

Israeli nationals are not allowed entry to the U.A.E.

Appropriate Behavior

Emiratis place great importance on respect for local culture and values, and foreigners are expected to do the same. One should not take photographs of locals, particularly of women, without permission. Overt public displays of affection are considered taboo, and holding hands in public is only just acceptable for married couples.

The U.A.E. is not permissive of open homosexuality, and homosexual practices (as well as all "overt displays of public affection," including for straight couples) are prohibited in the U.A.E.

In the Islamic culture, it's important not to eat or offer food or other items with the left hand, which is considered unclean. It is also considered impolite to show the soles of one's shoes. Practically speaking, that means you should try to avoid sitting in a way that results in the bottom of your shoes pointing at someone else (for example, when sitting with one leg crossed over the other). Swimwear should only be worn at the beach and you are encouraged to dress appropriately in shopping malls, wearing skirts and shorts of a decent length and no transparent garments. Topless sunbathing and nudity is strictly forbidden.

Neither drug use nor drunken behavior are tolerated. Year-round, visitors to Dubai and Abu Dhabi are technically not allowed to drink outside the hotel they are visiting unless they have a liquor permit. In practice, foreign residents and visitors can drink in places that serve alcohol so long as they don't engage in drunken behavior or drink and drive as there is a zero-tolerance policy towards drinking and driving. The legal drinking age is 21 in most of the U.A.E. and 18 in Abu Dhabi.

Eating during the day and drinking at any time in front of Muslims during the holy month of Ramadan is considered offensive although it still takes place in hotels, but discreetly and not in the presence of locals. Live music and dancing are not allowed during this period, so many bars and most clubs shut down temporarily.

Getting Around

By Car

Driving is an economical way to travel in Dubai. If you're visiting from abroad and plan to rent a car, keep in mind that an international driver's license or a temporary Dubai license is required. Some car-rental companies are able to help arrange international or temporary Dubai licenses for visitors. Driving in the U.A.E. is on the right-hand side of the road.

Most rental cars are new, automatic, and air-conditioned. Rates vary considerably, and are usually cheaper when booked in advance online. Comprehensive insurance is essential (including personal accident coverage).

Dubai's roads are excellent, if increasingly crowded, with driving on the right side of the road. Traffic signs are well marked and written in both English and Arabic. Speed limits range from 60 to 80kmph (37-50 mph) on city roads, and from 100 to 120kmph (62-75 mph) on highways. Seat belts are mandatory, as is use of hands-free devices when using a cellphone behind the wheel. Children aged 9 and under are not allowed to sit in the front seat. Anyone involved in a traffic accident must wait at the scene until the traffic police arrive to make a report. Call tel. 999 to report the accident.

There are four bridges and a tunnel linking the two sides of Dubai on each side of Dubai Creek. Traffic along Sheikh Zayed Road and the Maktoum Bridge is exceptionally heavy during rush hour. An eight-lane highway, which is Sheikh Zayed Road in Dubai, heads southwest toward Abu Dhabi, which takes between 90 to 120 minutes to reach depending on how fast you drive.

Although Dubai's roads are in good shape, standards of driving are erratic. Traffic accidents are a leading cause of injury and death in the U.A.E. Local drivers in particular often drive at very high speeds. Unsafe driving practices are common, particularly on inter-city highways such as Sheikh Zayed Road. On highways, unmarked speed bumps and blowing sand create additional hazards. Some visitors find it's simpler to take taxis rather than deal with renting a car and driving themselves.

Paid parking is available in most areas of Dubai. Look for the "pay and park" meters that require either AED 1 or AED 2 for the first hour, and an increasing rate for each additional hour (AED 5 for 2 hours, AED 8 for 3 hours, etc.). Parking meters generally operate Saturday to Thursday from 8am to 1pm and again from 4 to 9pm (with free parking the other hours); Fridays and public holidays are usually free all day. Valet parking is offered at most hotels, where many restaurants and bars are located. Malls typically offer free covered parking.

Petrol (gasoline) is available at stations operated by Emarat, EPPCO, and ENOC. Gas is less expensive in Dubai than in most Western countries.

By Taxi

Dubai taxis are safe, clearly marked, and relatively inexpensive. They're the most common form of transportation for those without cars. It's generally easy to flag one off the street, or you can order one from Dubai Taxi Corporation (tel. 04-264-1111; http://dtc.dubai.ae). The fare is AED 3 (3.50 at night) for pickup followed by AED 1.60 per kilometer, with a minimum fare of AED 10. Ordering a taxi through the dispatcher costs only AED 6 extra. Dubai has seven taxi companies offering fixed metered rates. Most taxis are air-conditioned Toyota Camrys. A fleet of taxis with pink roofs that are for women and driven by women was initiated in 2007. To book one, contact the Dubai Transport Corporation (tel. 04-264-1111; http://dtc.dubai.ae).

By Bus

Over 70 bus routes service destinations across Dubai, and the main bus stations are near the Gold Souk in Deira and on Al Ghubaiba Road in Bur Dubai. Buses are air-conditioned and inexpensive, with the fares depending on distance traveled. To ride, you must buy a Nol card at the bus station before boarding. Buses generally operate from 5am until midnight. For more information regarding routes, schedules, and pricing, visit www.rta.ae.

By Metro

The Dubai Metro opened its Red Line in September 2009, with a number of other lines planned for the future (including a Green Line that will extend from Al Qusais to the border with Sharjah). The Red Line runs from beyond the airport down Sheikh Zayed Road toward Jebel Ali and continues to be extended, stopping at some of the major malls along the way. Passengers must buy a Nol ticket at any of the air-conditioned station stops, with fares dependent on distance and duration of travel. Trains run Saturday to Thursday from 6am to 11pm and until midnight on Friday. Each train offers a section for women and children only.

By Monorail

A new monorail travels from the base of the Palm Jumeirah to the Atlantis hotel on the island's crescent. It's open from 8am to 10pm and costs AED 15 one-way and AED 25 return. Eventually the Dubai Metro is intended to link up with the monorail, but this hasn't happened yet.

By Water Taxi

Local water taxis are called abras and are both a convenient and traditional way of crossing the Dubai Creek and seeing some of the original city. There are a total of four abra stations on both sides of the Creek in Deira and Bur Dubai. The boats operate from 5am to midnight and cost just a dirham. Some of the boats also travel up and down the Dubai Creek for about AED 25 per person.

Neighborhoods in Brief

Bur Dubai

On the western side of Dubai Creek lies Bur Dubai, which like Deira provides a window into the early days of the city. At the northern edge of Bur Dubai near Port Rashid, the Al Shindagha Tunnel connects Bur Dubai with Deira. Nearby, at the northern tip of the creekside walkway are the Sheikh Saeed House and the Heritage and Diving Village. Walking south along the creek are the Dubai Museum and Bastakiya historic quarter. Visitors can catch a water taxi (abra) from the nearby Al Seef Road area across the creek to Deira. The upscale BurJuman Centre lies a couple of blocks to the west, and next to it is Al Karama, a business and residential area known for shopping bargains. The beautiful Creekside Park lies between the creek's two bridges, Al Garhoud and Al Maktoum. One of the city's best walking areas, it includes waterfront pathways, a 30m-high (98-ft.) cable car, and a fun educational center for kids called Children's City. Wafi City is located just to the west of Creekside Park.

Deira

Deira is Dubai's oldest and busiest neighborhood, filled with the traditional sights, sounds, and smells of the city. It's located on the east side of Dubai Creek and is connected to the western part of the city by two bridges: Garhoud Bridge and Al Maktoum Bridge. The Dubai Creek and Yacht Club lies next to the Garhoud Bridge and Deira City Centre. However, most of the neighborhood's action takes place farther north, in a triangle between Maktoum Bridge (which connects to Bur Dubai), the Corniche (which runs along the coast), and Abu Baker al-Siddiq Road (which extends between Maktoum Bridge and the Corniche to the east). A number of leading hotels are located along Baniyas Road (such as Hilton Dubai Creek and Sheraton Dubai Creek), which parallels the creek as it makes its way toward the Gulf. To the east near the Clock Tower Roundabout and Al Rigga Road are a number of more moderate hotels, restaurants, and shops, as well as unattractive apartment buildings and a whole lot of traffic. The Dubai International Airport is in the south of Deira.

The Deira wharfage area is located along the creek where Baniyas Road enters Al Ras, the area at the northwestern tip of Deira. Here you will see traditional dhows hauling their goods, and there are water taxis, abras, ferrying people across the creek to Bur Dubai. This is the most interesting part of Deira. Al Ras is home to Dubai's famous street markets, including the Gold Souk, Textile Souk, Spice Souk, and Fish Souk. This area is very congested and therefore best explored on foot in the cooler hours of the day. The Heritage House and Al-Ahmadiya School, two of Dubai's most appealing historical attractions, are also located in Al Ras. Extending east is the Corniche Deira, where Al Khaleej Road leads to the bridge connecting the mainland to Palm Deira island and on past Hamriya Port to Mamzar Beach Park.

Jumeirah, New Dubai, and the Palm Island

Originally just a beach, Jumeirah today refers to the entire coastal area west of Dubai Creek toward Jebel Ali. Al Jumeirah Road, commonly called the "Beach Road," begins at the Jumeirah Mosque and extends west past waterfront resorts, shops, and restaurants. This is a terrific walking area by day and night, and tends to be filled with casually dressed Western expats. Throughout the area are some of the most extravagant and expensive villas in Dubai. The Beach Road then passes the Jumeirah Beach Park as it makes it way toward the Jumeirah Beach Hotel, Burj Al Arab, and Wild Wadi waterpark in the area called Umm Suqeim. At this point, Beach Road merges with Al Sufouh Road, passing as it heads farther west by Madinat Jumeirah, Knowledge Village, and Internet City, and on to the Dubai Marina and Jumeirah Beach Residences (JBR).

In front of JBR lies a new pedestrian area called "The Walk." This fashionable stretch of shops, cafes, restaurants, and bars has quickly become one of the city's most popular going-out locales. Some of Dubai's leading beach resorts are nearby, such as the Ritz-Carlton, Hilton Dubai Jumeirah, Méridien Mina Seyahi, and One&Only Royal Mirage. Although the coastal roads are more picturesque, it's faster to reach this part of Jumeirah from the city center by taking Sheikh Zayed Road and exiting at Interchange 5.

Off the coast of this stretch of Jumeirah Beach lies the Palm Jumeirah Island. The Palm is home to the Atlantis resort, where Aquaventure, Dolphin Bay, and The Lost Chambers are also located. A number of other hotels, restaurants, malls, and entertainment options are planned for the island. You can reach Atlantis by driving, taking a taxi, or riding the monorail that runs from the base of the island to the crescent.

In addition to the new sections of Jumeirah, New Dubai refers to the entire series of areas being developed from Dubailand to Dubai World Central.

Sheikh Zayed Road

Sheikh Zayed Road parallels the coast as it extends west from Za'abeel Park toward Abu Dhabi. Although it's also an inter-city highway, when referred to here, Sheikh Zayed Road is the modern business center of Dubai with gleaming skyscrapers lining the road from the Trade Centre roundabout to the area past Interchange 1. The Dubai World Trade Centre was the emirate's first high-rise when it was built in 1979 and everything around it was still sand. Since then, the area has transformed into a concrete jungle as increasingly modern, tall, and architecturally distinctive buildings have been constructed. The twin Emirates Towers housing a hotel and office space opened in 2000, followed in recent years by even grander hotels: The Dusit Thani, Fairmont, and Shangri-La among them. In addition to hotels, the buildings lining Sheikh Zayed Road hold shopping centers, stores, art galleries, restaurants, cafes, and nightclubs, along with offices and luxury apartments.

Just to the west of Interchange 1, the Burj Khalifa dominates the skyline as the world's tallest structure. It's surrounded by an area called Downtown Dubai, which includes the Dubai Mall, Dubai Fountains, The Address hotel, The Palace-Old Town hotel, and other hotels, restaurants, office spaces, and entertainment options. As Sheikh Zayed Road continues its journey west, it passes the Mall of the Emirates and Ski Dubai at Interchange 4, with Dubai Internet City just beyond that, the Dubai Marina and Emirates Golf Club at Interchange 5, and finally Ibn Battuta Mall at Interchange 6 before entering Jebel Ali Village. From there, it's about an hour-and-a-half drive to Abu Dhabi.

Fast Facts

Area Codes -- The country code for the U.A.E. is 971, and the city code for Dubai is 04, for Abu Dhabi 02, Sharjah 06, Al Ain 03.

Automobile Organizations -- The Arabian Automobile Association (AAA) (tel. 04-266-9989 or 800-4900; www.aaauae.com) offers 24-hour recovery service for an annual fee, including basic mechanical repairs, towing service, battery boosting, lockout service, and assistance for vehicles that have a flat tire or run out of gas. The organization is also licensed to issue International Driving Permits.

Business Hours -- Government offices are typically open Sunday to Thursday from 7:30am to 2:30pm. Private business hours are generally from 9am to 5pm, with some businesses taking an afternoon break and then staying open until later in the evening. Many shops open at 9 or 10am and stay open until 9 or 10pm and even later at the weekend, which is Friday and Saturday.

Bank hours are Saturday to Wednesday 8am to 1pm, and (for some) again from 4:30 to 6:30pm. They are open Thursday from 8am to noon and are closed Friday.

Drinking Laws -- Alcohol is only available in hotel and club restaurants, bars, and nightclubs. It is not sold in supermarkets or other public places. Technically, drinking or possession of alcohol without a Ministry of Interior liquor permit is illegal except for guests of the hotel. Liquor licenses are issued only to non-Muslim persons who possess U.A.E. residency permits. Drinking alcohol in public is illegal, and there is zero tolerance for drinking and driving; doing so will result in jail and stiff fines.

Electricity -- Dubai and Abu Dhabi's electricity is 220-240 volts AC. You will need a UK-style 3-pin plug. U.S.-made appliances generally require a transformer to operate here. Bring a connection kit of the right power and phone adapters, a spare phone cord, and a spare Ethernet network cable - or find out whether your hotel supplies them to guests. Many electrical items you buy in stores, however, will have a European-style 2-pin plug.

Embassies & Consulates -- All embassies are located in the U.A.E.'s capital, Abu Dhabi. Many countries also have consulates or consulates general located in Dubai. Note that most will be closed on Friday and Saturday.

The Australian Embassy is on the 14th floor of the Al Muhairy Centre, Sheikh Zayed the First Street, Abu Dhabi (tel. 02-634-6100; www.uae.embassy.gov.au). The Australian Consulate General in Dubai is on the 25th floor of the BurJuman Business Tower (tel. 04-508-7100).

The British Embassy is on Al Seef Road in Bur Dubai, Dubai (tel. 04-309-4444; http://ukinuae.fco.gov.uk/en/). And also in Abu Dhabi on Khalid bin Waleed Road. (tel. 02-610-1100).

The Canadian Embassy is in the Abu Dhabi Trade Towers (Abu Dhabi Mall), West Tower, Abu Dhabi (tel. 02-694-0300; www.canadainternational.gc.ca/uae-eau). The Canadian Consulate in Dubai is on the 7th floor of the Bank Street Building, Khalid bin Waleed Road (tel. 04-314-5555).

The Irish Visa Facilitation Office in Dubai is on the 4th floor of the Monarch Hotel, Office Tower No. 1, Sheikh Zayed Road (opposite Trade Centre) (tel. 04-329-8382). The Irish Embassy is in Abu Dhabi, at 1 and 2 Khalifa Al Suwaidi Development, 19th Street (off 32nd Street), Al Bateen (tel. 02-495-8200; www.dfa.ie).

The New Zealand Consulate in Dubai is at Suite 1502, 15th Floor, API Tower, Sheikh Zayed Road (tel. 04-331-7500).

The United States Embassy is at Al Khaleej Al Arabi Street, at 30th Street, Abu Dhabi (tel. 02-414-2200; abudhabi.usembassy.gov). The U.S. Consulate General in Dubai is in the World Trade Centre off Sheikh Zayed Road (tel. 04-311-6000; dubai.usconsulate.gov).

Emergencies -- The Dubai Municipality Emergency Number is tel. 04-223-2323. For police or an ambulance, dial tel. 999. In case of fire, dial tel. 997.

Gasoline (Petrol) -- Petrol (gasoline) is available at stations operated by Emarat, EPPCO, and ENOC. It's in liters and costs considerably less than in most Western countries.

Holidays -- Banks, government offices, post offices, and many stores, restaurants, and other businesses are closed on the following legal national holidays (dates for religious holidays may change depending on the moon): January 1 (New Year's Day), February 26 (Prophet's Birthday), July 9 (Lailat Al Mi'Raj), September 10 (Eid al-Fitr), November 16 (Eid Al Adha), December 2 (U.A.E. National Day), and December 7 (Islamic New Year). Ramadan in 2011 will run from approximately August 1 to August 30 and in 2012 will run from July 21 to August 20 (check local press for exact dates nearer the time).

Hospitals -- The best government hospitals include Al Wasl Hospital (tel. 04-219-3000; www.dohms.gov.ae) on Oud Metha Road in Bur Dubai and Rashid Hospital (tel. 04-337-4000; www.dohms.gov.ae) in downtown Bur Dubai. Both offer emergency services. For private hospitals, the American Hospital (tel. 04-336-7777; www.ahdubai.com) on Oud Metha Road offers excellent emergency services and inpatient and outpatient care, as does Welcare Hospital (tel. 04-282-7788; www.welcarehospital.com) in Al Garhoud, near the Aviation Club. Dubai Healthcare City (tel. 04-324-5555; www.dhcc.ae) also encompasses a selection of hospitals.

Hot lines -- The toll-free hot line for Dubai's Tourist Police is tel. 800-4438. The Dubai Municipality Emergency Number is tel. 04-223-2323. Health Call (tel. 04-363-5343) offers in-house medical calls 24 hours a day. The team of medical doctors from North America and Europe out of Dubai Healthcare City provide comprehensive primary healthcare. The 24-hour Life Pharmacy hot line is tel. 04-344-1122.

Insurance -- Medical Insurance - It's a good idea to get travel insurance when visiting the U.A.E.

Language -- English is widely spoken in Dubai and most public information is written in English as well as Arabic. There are many people from Iran and South Asia here speaking Persian, Hindi, Urdu, and Pashto, as well.

Legal Aid -- If you run into legal trouble, it's a good idea to contact your country's consulate in Dubai or embassy in Abu Dhabi. They will usually have a list of reputable English-speaking lawyers and contact information. They will provide information on the local judicial system and a list of local attorneys. In Dubai, your embassy can also arrange for citizen detainees to meet with an ombudsman from the Human Rights Department of the Dubai police headquarters, if the detainee believes he or she is not being treated fairly. Other embassies and consulates offer similar services.

Lost & Found -- For lost and found in Dubai, try contacting Dubai's Tourist Police (tel. 800-4438). Be sure to tell all of your credit card companies the minute you discover your wallet has been lost or stolen, and file a report at the nearest police precinct. Your credit card company or insurer may require a police report number or record of the loss. Most credit card companies have an emergency toll-free number to call if your card is lost or stolen; they may be able to wire you a cash advance immediately or deliver an emergency credit card in a day or two. Visa's U.A.E. emergency number is tel. 04-223-6888. American Express cardholders and traveler's check holders should call tel. 04-336-5000. MasterCard holders should call tel. 04-332-2956.

If you need emergency cash over the weekend when all banks and American Express offices are closed, you can have money wired to you via Western Union (tel. 800-325-6000; www.westernunion.com).

Mail -- U.A.E. mail is reliable and generally takes 6 to 10 days to reach Europe and the U.S., and 8 to 10 days to reach Australia and New Zealand. Letters up to 20 grams cost about AED 4 to Europe and AED 5 to the U.S. Stamps are available for purchase in post offices, supermarkets, and some other shops. Red post boxes for outbound mail are easily distinguishable at post offices and outside many supermarkets. The main post office is on Za'abeel Road in Karama, Bur Dubai (tel. 800-5858). Major international carriers here include DHL (tel. 800-4004), FedEx (tel. 800-4050), and UPS (tel. 800-4774).

Newspapers & Magazines -- Dubai's major English-language newspapers are Gulf News, Khaleej Times, Emirates Today, and the Gulf Today. Seven Days is an English-language tabloid. Local magazines in English include Inside Out, TimeOut Dubai, What's On, and Connector. These and some foreign newspapers and magazines are available in bookshops and supermarkets.

Police -- The emergency number for police or an ambulance is tel. 999. The Dubai Police can also be reached at tel. 800-4438 or 04-609-9999 (www.dubaipolice.gov.ae).

Smoking -- Smoking is regulated in all public places in Dubai and only allowed in designated areas and rooms. A national ban on smoking is under consideration.

Taxes -- There's no income or value-added tax (VAT) in Dubai, although a 10% municipality tax and a 10% service charge are added to hotel and food and beverage checks. These taxes are usually already incorporated in the price.

Time -- Dubai is 4 hours ahead of UCT (formerly known as GMT). It does not observe daylight saving time.

Tipping -- Many restaurants include a service charge, which will be clearly identified on your checks; for those that do not, a tip of 10% to 15% is appropriate. Your server is generally not allowed to keep the tip, however, which is instead shared with all the staff. Offer AED 5 for valet parking, unless otherwise specified. A few dirhams per bag is an appropriate tip for hotel bell boys. Taxi drivers do not expect to be tipped, although people often round up when paying the fare.

Toilets -- Western-style restrooms and toilets are widely available in shopping malls, restaurants, and hotel lobbies. Public toilets on the streets are uncommon.

Useful Phone Numbers -- U.S. Department of State Travel Advisory: tel. 202-647-5225 (staffed 24 hr.)

U.S. Passport Agency: tel. 202-647-051804.

Water -- Tap water is desalinated from the Gulf and is generally safe to drink, but most visitors prefer bottled mineral water, which is offered in most Dubai hotels and restaurants.

Escorted & Package Tours

Academic Trips & Language Classes

The Sheikh Mohammed Centre for Cultural Understanding (www.cultures.ae), located in the Bastakiya old quarter of Dubai, offers city tours with a focus on history and culture. One excursion is the Jumeirah Mosque visit, which takes place four times a week as a fixed public tour. Guests at the mosque participate in a talk on the U.A.E.'s official religion, Islam. Other activities include Arabic courses, U.A.E. culture and Dubai orientation courses, a Bastakiya walking tour, a cultural breakfast and lunch, coffee mornings, cultural question-and-answer sessions, Iftar dinners during Ramadan, and "story circle for children."

Adventure & Wellness Trips

Desert Rangers (tel. 04-357-2233; www.desertrangers.com) is a Dubai-based operator offering specialized adventure travel in the desert. Among the thrilling options are desert-driving courses, camel trekking by night, rock climbing, canoe expeditions, deep-sea fishing, and desert balloon safaris.

Arabian Adventures (tel. 04-303-4888; www.arabian-adventures.com) will also custom design adventure travel in the desert surrounding Dubai.

Horse Racing Abroad (tel. 01244-355-580 in the U.K.; www.horseracingabroad.com) offers a week's holiday from the U.K. to the Dubai World Cup. Join the jetset crowd that comes to Dubai each March for this world-renowned event. The adventure package includes 6 nights' luxury accommodations, tickets to the World Cup, and round-trip airfare from London Gatwick, Birmingham, or Manchester.

Mountain High (tel. 050-659-5536; www.mountainhighme.com) founded by British adventurer Julie Lewis in 2003 offers adventure challenge retreats and personal leadership programs for women, with a mission to empower and inspire them. Activities include mountain treks, multi-activity challenges, weekend retreats, and workshops.

TEN Travel & Tourism (www. travel.theemiratesnetwork.com) offers half-day shopping tours of Dubai. The guided tours, which require at least two people and can start anytime of the day, include visits to major malls and souks, with tips on bargaining. Free pickup and drop-off service is provided anywhere in Dubai.

Reem Tours & Travel (tel. 04-272-7116; www.reemtours.net) offers city tours, safaris, and help with arranging outdoor activities like golf, helicopter rides, deep-sea fishing, and yacht charters, among others.

Tips for Women Travelers

There are a few things women travelers will want to be aware of. Women have all the same legal rights as men and are free to dress as they please, although modest attire is encouraged out of deference to the local culture. Many public places offer special sections for women as well as special hours during which only women are allowed, which is intended to show respect for women's privacy. This may include public transportation, banks, post offices, libraries, city parks, and even some health clubs and spas.

Emirati men often do not directly address a foreign woman, which is also meant as a sign of respect in the local culture. They may stare, however, and this is usually a result of curiosity rather than rudeness. Sexual harassment is officially censored, and the Dubai government punishes offenders by "naming and shaming" them. Although women should feel safe traveling alone, they should be cautious about visiting lower-end hotels, bars, or nightclubs where prostitution may be an issue and single women are sometimes propositioned.

Tips on Accommodations

Despite recent financial woes, Dubai has one of the world's fastest-growing hotel scenes of any major world city. If the emirate's plans to become a global tourism hub continue to take hold - and they probably will - Dubai is expected to expand from roughly 6 million annual visitors today to more than 15 million within a decade. Authorities envision the need to construct an additional 70,000 to 80,000 hotel rooms to meet this demand.

Most of the hotels we include are officially designated with four or five stars, which should not be confused with the zero- to three-star scale that Frommer's use in these guides. Many of the world's top-name hotels are here, and some with multiple locations: Ritz-Carlton, Marriott, Raffles, Hyatt, Hilton, Fairmont, Sheraton, Sofitel, and One&Only, to name a few. The Jumeirah Group, overseen by Dubai's royal family, boasts some of Dubai's best-known resorts and hotels. These include the iconic Burj Al Arab, which is so big it almost eclipses the horizon, the Jumeirah Beach Hotel, Emirates Towers, and the Arabian palace hotels inside Madinat Jumeirah. Jumeirah Group also owns the desert oasis resort, Bab Al Shams, whose only real competition is Al Maha Desert Resort & Spa. A visit to either is like a trip to heaven.

Most of Dubai's entertainment revolves around the hotel scene. Because hotels are uniquely permitted to hold liquor licenses, the majority of the city's top restaurants and virtually all bars and nightclubs are in hotels. The action is nonstop, except during Ramadan, when all Muslims are required to fast by day and non-Muslims are asked to be respectful of the holy month.

The most extravagant, and expensive, hotels here are the international resorts in so-called "New Dubai," which include Jumeirah, Dubai Marina, and the Palm Jumeirah. The beaches here are beautiful - soft golden sand fronts a blue-green sea, with water as warm as the Caribbean. These world-class resorts offer amenities equal to the best establishments in the world. Most of them have spas, health clubs, sports activities, and beach centers with extensive water sports, as well as wide-ranging dining and entertainment options. The Atlantis and Jumeirah Beach Hotel both have their own waterparks.

The hotels lining Sheikh Zayed Road are also very impressive. To lure travelers and ensure that Dubai is internationally recognized as the region's tourist capital, the sleek accommodations lining Dubai's main thoroughfare compete for design, luxury, service, and amenities. Dubai's twin towers, known as Emirates Towers, set the stage for the road's surrounding architectural splendor, and today the hotels and other high-rises spanning the skyline form an urban desert wonder. Business travelers tend to stay on Sheikh Zayed Road, but these hotels also have extensive services for visitors who are on holiday, and they're just minutes away from Jumeirah Beach and the best sights of old Dubai.

One of the city's hottest new addresses lies just off Sheikh Zayed Road in "Downtown Dubai," the massive residential and entertainment complex that includes the world's tallest building, the Burj Khalifa, and the Dubai Mall. Among the outstanding hotels here are The Address and The Palace - Old Town; an Armani hotel is scheduled to open on the lower floors of the Burj Khalifa.

The old city consists of Deira and Bur Dubai. It's not as glitzy as Jumeirah Beach, the Palm Island, or Sheikh Zayed Road, but it has much more local flavor. The best hotels here overlook Dubai Creek, but they're also the most expensive in the area. For travelers seeking more moderate accommodations, Deira and Bur Dubai offer the city's least expensive options. Be cautious when choosing other hotels in the area - some are used for prostitution and are simply not recommended.

Just as the guests to Dubai's hotels seem to come from every corner of the globe, so too do the staff. Service has improved markedly, but the limited English-speaking ability and lack of familiarity with Western expectations among some of the staff occasionally means that service isn't quite up to par with other tourist hubs. This is more the case with inexpensive hotels than with the expensive, international ones. Nevertheless, you can always get by with English. As you might expect, you will find a significant difference between the attention you will receive at a five-star hotel and one more modest in quality and price.

Dubai hotels are expensive and unfortunately getting more so. Hotel prices tend to drop 30 to 40% in summer (late June-Aug), but Dubai is so hot then you may feel like you should be the one paid to stay during those months. There are occasionally discounts around some of the festival periods, as well. Most travelers are likely to find the prices a little more manageable, but still high. I strongly suggest that you check Internet promotional rates before booking. Most hotels will quote rates in dirhams but can easily convert that to dollars, pounds, or euros. Foreign credit cards are widely accepted. All rates are subject to a 10% municipality fee and 10% service charge.

Tips for Student Travelers

Students holding ISIC, ITIC, or IYTC cards can often get discounts of up to 25% off published rates at Dubai hotels. Dubai also has one youth hostel in the Al Ghusais area at 39 Al-Nahda Rd. (tel. 04-298-8151; www.uaeyha.com), between Al Mulla Plaza and the Al Bustan Centre. Dorm rooms cost AED 110 per night for non-members; double rooms cost AED 220 per night, including breakfast.

Tips for Families

Family lies at the core of Emirati culture, and children are welcomed just about everywhere. It's widely considered a very safe and friendly city for families. Most hotels offer kids' activities and babysitting services. Many restaurants have children's menus and some have special family areas. Amusement centers, waterparks, shopping center arcades, and beaches are ubiquitous in Dubai. Children's City and the Dubai Zoo cater specifically for kids. Atlantis, The Palm is filled with wonderful water activities such as Aquaventure and Dolphin Bay, as is the Jumeirah Beach Hotel and a number of other beach resorts. The best time for children to enjoy the city is from mid-October to mid-April, when the temperatures are moderate, facilitating outdoor activities. For 10 weeks between June and August, "Dubai Summer Surprises" focuses on children's entertainment and educational activities at shopping malls and other indoor venues.

Visitor Information

The Department of Tourism & Commerce Marketing (www.dubaitourism.ae) is officially responsible for all elements of Dubai's tourism sector. The main office is located at Baniyas Square (tel. 4/228-5000) and is open Saturday to Thursday 9am to 9pm and Friday 3 to 9pm. Another branch is located 40km (25 miles) south of Dubai on Sheikh Zayed Road going toward Abu Dhabi (tel. 4/883-3397), and has the same hours. The airport branch is located in Terminal 1 (tel. 4/224-5252) and is open 24 hours a day. Other tourism office branches are located in the following shopping centers: City Center, BurJuman, Hamarain, Wafi, and Mercato. These are generally open daily from 10am to 10pm.

Money

Frommer's lists exact prices in the local currency. However, rates fluctuate, so before departing consult a currency exchange website such as www.oanda.com/convert/classic to check up-to-the-minute rates.

The monetary unit of the U.A.E. is the dirham (designated as Dhs or AED, which stands for Arab Emirate Dirham), which is divided into 100 fils. Bills come in the following denominations: 5 (brown note), 10 (green), 20 (light blue), 50 (purple), 100 (pink), 500 (blue), and 1,000 (burgundy). The notes are written in English on one side and Arabic on the other. To see examples of the different dirham notes, visit the "currency" section of www.centralbank.ae. There are three types of silver coins written in Arabic representing 25 fils, 50 fils, and 1 dirham.

The dirham is pegged to the U.S. dollar at $1=AED 3.67. The exchange rate with the British pound at press time was £1=AED 5.86. For up-to-the-minute currency conversions, visit www.oanda.com or www.xe.com. Both have free apps you can download to your iPhone.

Dubai is increasingly expensive, with inflation on the rise. Hotel prices are now among the highest of any city in the world, and the price of everything from food to entertainment continues to climb. It is difficult to find a moderate hotel for under $200 in the high season (luxury hotels often go for $400 and up), and a three-course dinner without alcohol will cost about $50 per person. Taxis remain relatively inexpensive.

Cash is the prevalent means of paying in Dubai, although credit and debit cards are widely accepted. This is the case just about everywhere except in the souks. ATMs are prevalent throughout the city, available not just in banks but in many supermarkets and shopping centers, as well. Most accept a wide range of cards, including those linked to the Plus system, American Express, Global Access, MasterCard, and Visa. Currency and traveler's check exchange is possible in most banks, exchange houses, and many hotels.

Beware of hidden credit-card fees while traveling. Check with your credit or debit card issuer to see what fees, if any, will be charged for overseas transactions. Recent reform legislation in the U.S., for example, has curbed some exploitative lending practices. But many banks have responded by increasing fees in other areas, including fees for customers who use credit and debit cards while out of the country -- even if those charges were made in U.S. dollars. Fees can amount to 3% or more of the purchase price. Check with your bank before departing to avoid any surprise charges on your statement.

What Things Cost in Dubai (AED)

Taxi from the airport to central Dubai - 50

Double room at Burj al Arab (very expensive) - 6,500

Double room at XVA (inexpensive/moderate) - 650

Three-course dinner for one without wine, moderate - 150

Champagne Friday brunch at Glasshouse - 220

2-hour pass at Ski Dubai - 180

2-hour pass at Dubai Ice Rink - 50

Entrance to Aquaventure - 200

Water taxi (abra) ride one-way - 1

Sustainable Travel & Ecotourism

The U.A.E. has the world's largest ecological footprint - the Arabian desert, after all, is not a sustainable place to build major cities, and certainly not on the scale that Dubai and Abu Dhabi have embarked on. High temperatures and lack of water long precluded the development of arid landscapes. However, with the advent of air-conditioning, desalination plants, and modern transport, cities such as Dubai and Abu Dhabi continue to grow into sprawling urban centers. In places like these where summer temperatures often top 100°F (37.8°C), massive amounts of energy must be used to keep the populace cool.

The major projects here - whether it's hotels, malls, golf courses, skyscrapers, roads, man-made islands, entertainment complexes, real estate development, or other infrastructure projects all tax the environment - and until recently there's been little consciousness about their environmental impacts. Profligate water and electricity usage further strains the environment. Dubai is well known for its beach resorts, golf courses, and parks, but keeping that landscape green requires an inordinate amount of water. The U.A.E., in fact, has the world's highest per capita water use.

Sustainable tourism remains a fledgling industry in Dubai, but the local government is beginning to take a closer look at its advantages. The Dubai Department of Tourism and Commerce Marketing launched a "Green Tourism Award" program recently to encourage innovations in eco-tourism (for details, visit www.green.dubaitourism.ae). This initiative includes efforts to reduce the carbon footprint of the tourism sector's sprawling developments, and supporting activities that encourage a celebration of the U.A.E.'s natural assets.

Eco-friendly outdoor activities include traditional desert safaris, hiking and camping in the Hajar Mountains, scuba and snorkeling outings on the U.A.E.'s Eastern coast, and bird-watching adventures. With over 400 species in the U.A.E., there are extensive bird-watching opportunities in places as diverse as Mushrif Park, Emirates Golf Club, Jebel Ali, and Hatta (visit www.dubaitourism.ae for more information). You can also enjoy an eco-friendly desert immersion at Al Maha Desert Resort, perched on the slope of a huge dune located within a desert conservation reserve of 233 sq. km (90 sq. miles/5% of the landmass of Dubai). For a more hearty experience, expedition companies will take you out for a trek in the Hajar Mountains, with base camps set up from abandoned Shihhi villages (a tribe of the northern emirate of Ras al-Khaimah and neighboring Oman). For more information, see: www.arabiahorizons.com/Hajar-Mountains-Safari/.

The best scuba and snorkeling sites are found in the emirate of Fujairah, as well as off "Snoopy Island" on the Gulf of Oman, where tropical fish flitter around an extensive coral reef. For the more adventurous who want to explore an array of fascinating shipwrecks located further south on this stretch of the Eastern coast of the U.A.E., there are plenty of opportunities (visit www.scuba-2000.com).

The Desert Islands Abu Dhabi (www.desertislands.com) will form a collection of eight islands off the capital's coast with dynamic wildlife reserves, untouched marine ecologies, and archeological sites - all meant to develop sustainable tourism in the country. Once completed, activities will include nature and wildlife drives and hikes, mountain biking, kayaking, snorkeling, falconry, and archery. Yas Island is one of the first islands in this project to be completed.

The Abu Dhabi government is also positioning the emirate as an innovator in renewable energy technology, launching the first ever World Future Energy Summit in 2009. This event, to be held each January, draws an international crowd and features exhibits on clean energy, with a line-up of impressive speakers that have included Tony Blair. For more information, visit: www.worldfutureenergysummit.com. Abu Dhabi has also won the bid to host IRENA, the world's first multilateral renewable energy agency. For details, see: www.irena.org.

Abu Dhabi's Masdar City project - an ambitious enterprise funded entirely by Masdar, the clean technology investment fund of the Abu Dhabi government -represents the world's first carbon neutral, zero waste city. It features fanciful technological innovations including jazzy people-moving devices and fascinating state-of-the-art cooling technologies meant to keep the city inhabitable without guzzling energy. Masdar City will host the Masdar Institute of Science and Technology - a sister school to MIT that will become a center for innovation in green technology. While behind schedule on construction, parts of the city are open, and it's worth inquiring about a visit if you are in Abu Dhabi. For more information, visit: www.masdarcity.ae/en/index.aspx.

General Resources For Green Travel

In addition to the resources for Dubai listed above, the following websites provide valuable wide-ranging information on sustainable travel:

  • Responsible Travel (www.responsibletravel.com) is a great source of sustainable travel ideas; the site is run by a spokesperson for ethical tourism in the travel industry. Sustainable Travel International (www.sustainabletravelinternational.org) promotes ethical tourism practices, and manages an extensive directory of sustainable properties and tour operators around the world.
  • In the U.K., Tourism Concern (www.tourismconcern.org.uk) works to reduce social and environmental problems connected to tourism. The Association of Independent Tour Operators (AITO) (www.aito.co.uk) is a group of specialist operators leading the field in making holidays sustainable.
  • In Canada, www.greenlivingonline.com offers extensive content on how to travel sustainably, including a travel and transport section.
  • In Australia, the national body which sets guidelines and standards for ecotourism is Ecotourism Australia (www.ecotourism.org.au). The Green Directory (www.thegreendirectory.com.au), Green Pages (www.thegreenpages.com.au), and Eco Directory (www.ecodirectory.com.au) offer sustainable travel tips and directories of green businesses.
  • Carbonfund (www.carbonfund.org), TerraPass (www.terrapass.org), and Cool Climate (http://coolclimate.berkeley.edu) provide info on "carbon offsetting," or offsetting the greenhouse gas emitted during flights.
  • Greenhotels (www.greenhotels.com) recommends green-rated member hotels around the world that fulfill the company's stringent environmental requirements. Environmentally Friendly Hotels (www.environmentallyfriendlyhotels.com) offers more green accommodation ratings.
  • For information on animal-friendly issues throughout the world, visit Tread Lightly (www.treadlightly.org). For information about the ethics of swimming with dolphins, visit the Whale and Dolphin Conservation Society (www.wdcs.org).
  • Volunteer International (www.volunteerinternational.org) has a list of questions to help you determine the intentions and the nature of a volunteer program. For general info on volunteer travel, visit www.volunteerabroad.org and www.idealist.org.

Tips for Gay and Lesbian Travelers

The U.A.E. is not permissive of open homosexuality, and homosexual practices (as well as all "overt displays of public affection," including for straight couples) are prohibited in the U.A.E. As a result there are no openly gay or lesbian spots in town.

Entry Requirements & Customs

Passports

Virtually every traveler entering the U.A.E. is required to show a passport. It is advised always to have at least one or two consecutive blank pages in your passport to allow space for visas and stamps that need to appear together. If you have no room, you will need to apply for a new passport. It is also important to note when your passport expires.

The websites listed provide downloadable passport applications as well as the current fees for processing applications.

For Residents of Australia -- Contact the Australian Passport Information Service at tel. 131-232, or visit www.passports.gov.au.

For Residents of Canada -- Contact the central Passport Office, Department of Foreign Affairs and International Trade, Ottawa, ON K1A 0G3 (tel. 800-567-6868; www.ppt.gc.ca).

For Residents of Ireland -- Contact the Passport Office, Setanta Centre, Molesworth Street, Dublin 2 (tel. 01-671-1633; www.foreignaffairs.gov.ie).

For Residents of New Zealand -- Contact the Passports Office, Department of Internal Affairs, 47 Boulcott Street, Wellington, 6011 (tel. 0800-225-050 in New Zealand or 04-474-8100; www.passports.govt.nz).

For Residents of the United Kingdom -- Visit your nearest passport office, major post office, or travel agency or contact the Identity and Passport Service (IPS), 89 Eccleston Square, London, SW1V 1PN (tel. 0300-222-0000; www.ips.gov.uk).

For Residents of the United States -- To find your regional passport office, check the U.S. State Department website (travel.state.gov/passport) or call the National Passport Information Center (tel. 877-487-2778) for automated information.

Visas

Nationals of Australia, Canada, Ireland, New Zealand, the United Kingdom, and the United States (as well as those of various other countries) do not require visas to visit the U.A.E. for stays of less than 30 days. They will be granted a free-of-charge One Entry Visit Visa upon arrival, and can extend for up to a total stay of 60 days for AED 620. A penalty of AED 100 per day is charged to visitors who overstay. For longer stays, travelers must obtain a visa before arrival in the U.A.E.

For complete information about visa requirements for all nationalities, visit www.dubaitourism.ae.

Customs

What Can You Bring into the U.A.E -- Every visitor to the U.A.E. may bring in, free of duty, their personal effects and 400 cigarettes, 2 kg (4[b/f]1/2 lb.) of tobacco, and up to AED 3,000 worth of gifts. It is illegal to import drugs or pornography. For a list of prohibited medicines in the U.A.E., visit the "tourist tips" section of www.dubaitourism.ae. After collecting your luggage at the airport, your bags will be X-rayed for inspection. There is also a duty-free sales outlet in the Dubai International Airport Arrivals hall. Duty-free allowances include 10 cigarette cartons, 100 cigars, 2 liters of spirits and 2 liters of wine (non-Muslim adults only), and perfume for personal use. See www.customs.ae for additional information.

What Can You Take Home from Dubai -- For information on what you're allowed to bring home, contact one of the following agencies:

U.S. Citizens: U.S. Customs & Border Protection (CBP), 1300 Pennsylvania Ave., NW, Washington, DC 20229 (tel. 877-287-8667; www.cbp.gov).

Canadian Citizens: Canada Border Services Agency, Ottawa, Ontario, K1A 0L8 (tel. 800-461-9999 in Canada, or 204/983-3500; www.cbsa-asfc.gc.ca).

U.K. Citizens: HM Revenue & Customs, Crownhill Court, Tailyour Road, Plymouth, PL6 5BZ (tel. 0845-010-9000; from outside the U.K., tel. 020-8929-0152; www.hmrc.gov.uk).

Australian Citizens: Australian Customs Service, Customs House, 5 Constitution Avenue, Canberra City, ACT 2601 (tel. 1300-363-263; from outside Australia, tel. 612-6275-6666; www.customs.gov.au).

New Zealand Citizens: New Zealand Customs, The Customhouse, 17-21 Whitmore St., Box 2218, Wellington, 6140 (tel. 04-473-6099 or 0800-428-786; www.customs.govt.nz).

Medical Requirements

No health certificates are required for entry to the U.A.E., except for visitors who have been in an area infected by cholera or yellow fever during the past 14 days. However, an HIV/AIDS test is required for work or residence in the U.A.E., and testing must be performed after arrival. For more information, visit www.dubaitourism.ae.