The more enjoyable of Italy’s two table-service restaurants features lots of light, three-story vaulted ceilings, and three amusing wood-fired ovens shaped like the open mouths of giant mustachioed men named after volcanoes. Into those are thrust $18 to $23 individual pizzas and $9.50 kids’ pizzas made with flour imported from Naples (not that you could tell the difference). Don’t want pizza? There are a bunch of more substantial Italian mains. Entrees $24‒$40, one-person pizzas $18‒$22, larger pizzas $35‒$48. Sit-down only.