After arriving at the airport outside George Town, chances are you'll meet Kermit Rolle. Kermit, who runs things up in Rolleville, knows as much about the Exumas as anyone (maybe more). Stop in at Kermit's Airport Lounge, Exuma International Airport (tel. 242/345-0002), open from 7am to 5:30pm. Look for it across from the airport terminal building. If you're lucky, Kermit will be available and you can negotiate a deal with him to take you for a tour in his car.

By Taxi

If your hotel is in George Town, it will cost about $25 to get there in a taxi from the airport. Rides are often shared. Hotels can usually get you a taxi if you need to go somewhere and don't have a car. Otherwise, for taxi service, call Leslie Dames at tel. 242/357-0405.

If you're going on to Stocking Island, an islet in Elizabeth Harbour, make prior arrangements with your hotel for boat transfers.

By Car

It's also possible to rent a car during your stay, though the major North American agencies aren't represented here. Try Exuma Transport, Main Street, George Town (tel. 242/336-2101), where cars start at $60 per day or $325 per week. A $200 deposit is required. Your hotel may also be able to arrange a rental car for you through a local firm.

The George Town area has two gas stations: one near Exuma International Airport and the other in Farmer's Hill. They're generally open Monday through Saturday from 8am to 5pm, Sunday from 8am to noon, and on holidays from 8 to 10am.

By Boat

For ferry service between George Town and the beaches on Stocking Island, call Club Peace & Plenty (tel. 242/336-2551), which has departures twice a day. The ferries are complimentary to Club Peace & Plenty guests. If you're not staying at that hotel, the cost is $12 round-trip for adults, free for children 10 and under.

On Foot

George Town is designed for strolling, but don't expect sights that scream "tourist attraction." This is a handsome little waterfront village where the big draws are simply browsing at the tree-shaded straw market, sampling fresh conch salad at the dock, and mingling with residents and fellow vacationers over drinks and home-style meals. The most idyllic walk is around Lake Victoria.

The Exuma Beach Inn provides shuttle service into town, or you can walk the scenic mile. If you don't succumb to wheels, you can enjoy leisurely glimpses of the turquoise and neon-blue water through the wispy casuarina pines and bushy coconut palms lining Queen's Highway. "Highway" is a serious overstatement, so walking here is fine, as traffic is sparse.

Note: This information was accurate when it was published, but can change without notice. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.