Planning a trip to French Polynesia

When to Go

There is no bad time to go to French Polynesia, but some periods are better than others. The weather is at its best -- comfortable and dry -- in July and August, but this is the prime vacation and festival season. July is the busiest month because of the Heiva Nui festival. Hotels on the outer islands are at their fullest during August, the traditional French vacation month, when many Papeete residents head for the outer islands to get away from it all. In other words, book your air tickets and hotel rooms for July and August as far in advance as possible.

May, June, September, and October have the best combination of weather and availability of hotel rooms.

The Climate

Tahiti and the rest of the Society Islands enjoy a balmy tropical climate. Tropical showers can pass overhead at any time of the year. Humidity averages between 77% and 80% throughout the year.

The most pleasant time of year is the May-through-October austral winter, or dry season, when midday maximum temperatures average a delightful 82°F (28°C), with early morning lows of 68°F (20°C) often making a blanket necessary. Some winter days, especially on the south side of the islands, can seem quite chilly when a strong wind blows from Antarctica.

November through April is the austral summer, or wet season, when rainy periods can be expected between days of intense sunshine. The average maximum daily temperature is 86°F (30°C) during these months, while nighttime lows are about 72°F (22°C). An air-conditioned hotel room or bungalow will feel like heaven during this humid time of year.

The central and northern Tuamotus have somewhat warmer temperatures and less rainfall. Since there are no mountains to create cooling night breezes, these islands can experience desertlike hot periods between November and April.

The Marquesas are closer to the Equator, and temperatures and humidity tend to be slightly higher than in Tahiti. Rainfall in the Marquesas is scattered throughout the year, but is most likely from June through August, exactly opposite that of the rest of French Polynesia. The trade winds reach that far north and temper the climate from April to October, but the Marquesas can see hot and sticky days the rest of the year.

The climate in the Austral and Gambier islands, which are much farther south, is more temperate year-round.

French Polynesia is on the far eastern edge of the South Pacific cyclone (hurricane) belt, and storms can occur between November and March.

Another factor to consider is the part of an island that you'll visit. Because the moist trade winds usually blow from the east, the eastern sides of the high, mountainous islands tend to be wetter all year than the western sides.

Also bear in mind that the higher the altitude, the lower the temperature. If you're going up in the mountains, be prepared for much cooler weather than you'd have on the coast.

The local office of Météo France, the national weather service, posts the forecasts and climatic observations in French on www.meteo.pf.

When the Moon Is Full -- The islands are extraordinarily beautiful anytime, especially so at equinox time in late September and late March, when the sun's rays hit the lagoons at just the right angle to highlight the gorgeous colors out in the lagoons. The play of moonlight on the water and the black silhouettes the mountains cast against the sky, make them even more magical when the moon is full. Keep that in mind when planning your trip -- and especially if it's your honeymoon.

The Busy Season

July and August are the busiest tourist season in French Polynesia. That's when residents of Tahiti head to their own outer islands, in keeping with the traditional July-to-August holiday break in France. Many Europeans also visit the islands during this time. In addition, July brings the Heiva Nui, the territory's biggest annual festival, when locals flock to Tahiti to see or participate in dance contests.

Christmas through the middle of January is a good time to get a hotel reservation in the islands, but airline seats can be hard to come by, since thousands of islanders fly home from overseas.

Holidays

Like all Pacific Islanders, the Tahitians love public holidays and often extend them past the official day. For example, if Ascension Day falls on a Thursday, don't be surprised if some stores and even banks are closed through the weekend. Plan your shopping forays accordingly.

Public holidays are New Year's Day (government offices are also closed on Jan 2), Good Friday and Easter Monday, Ascension Day (40 days after Easter), Whitmonday (the seventh Mon after Easter), Missionary Day (Mar 5), Labor Day (May 1), Pentecost Monday (the first Mon in June), Bastille Day (July 14), Internal Autonomy Day (Sept 8), All Saints' Day (Nov 1), Armistice Day (Nov 11), and Christmas Day (Dec 25).

Tahiti Tourisme publishes an annual list of the territory's leading special events on its website.

Visitor Information

The best source of up-to-date information in advance is Tahiti Tourisme, B.P. 65, 98713 Papeete, French Polynesia (tel. 50.57.00; fax 43.66.19; www.tahiti-tourisme.com).

You can also contact Tahiti Tourisme's overseas offices or representatives:

• United States: 300 N. Continental Blvd., Ste. 160, El Segundo, CA 90245 (tel. 310/414-8484; fax 310/414-8490; www.tahiti-tourisme.com); and 122 E. 42nd St., Ste. 608, New York, NY 10168 (tel. 212/599-8484).

Once you're in Papeete, you can get maps, brochures, and other information at the Tahiti Tourisme's Fare Manihini visitor bureau (tel. 50.57.12; www.tahiti-manava.pf), located in the cruise-ship welcome center on the waterfront, on boulevard Pomare at rue Paul Gauguin.

Most major islands have tourism committees, but they run information offices only on Moorea, Huahine, Raiatea, Bora Bora, Nuku Hiva, and Hiva Oa.

Be sure to pick up the Tahiti Beach Press, a free weekly English-language newspaper that lists special events and current activities. Copies are available in most hotel lobbies.

Tahiti Tourisme distributes free maps of each island. Each weekly edition of the free Tahiti Beach Press carries artistic maps of the island and Papeete. Librairie Vaima, a large bookstore in Papeete's Vaima Centre, sells several cartes touristiques.

The most detailed map is "Tahiti: Archipel de la Société," published by the Institut Géographique National. Although it doesn't include every new road on Tahiti, it shows all the Society Islands in detail, including topographic features. It's available online from Maptown Ltd. (www.maptown.com).

Useful Websites

The U.S. Department of State maintains a Travel Advisory (tel. 202/647-5225) to keep you abreast of political or other problems throughout the world. It posts travel warnings and other timely information on its website, www.travel.state.gov.

The Tahiti-based Agence Tahitienne de Presse (www.tahitipresse.pf) is the best source for breaking local news as well as events and weather. Click on the "English version" link.

The East-West Center at the University of Hawaii gathers news from French Polynesia and other islands on its Pacific Islands Report website, http://pidp.eastwestcenter.org/pireport. It includes links to newspapers, news services, and universities.

Other useful websites include:

• www.airtahitimagazine.com, with articles from Air Tahiti's in-flight magazine.

Getting Hitched in the Islands

The islands are marvelous places for a honeymoon. Getting married in French Polynesia, however, is another matter, due to a required 30-day residency. That is, you have to stay here at least a month before you can get a marriage license. On the other hand, most resorts have romantic wedding packages including traditional ceremonies, often right on the beach, so many couples get legally hitched at home, and then go through it again here. Others come here to reaffirm their vows.

Tips for Travelers with Disabilities

Most disabilities shouldn't stop anyone from traveling, even in the islands, where ramps, handles, accessible toilets, automatic opening doors, telephones at convenient heights, and other helpful aids are just beginning to appear.

Some hotels provide rooms specially equipped for people with disabilities. These improvements are ongoing; inquire when making a reservation whether such rooms are available.

A majority of hotels here consist of bungalows separated from the restaurant, bar, and other facilities, sometimes by long distances. A few upper-end resorts have golf carts or other means of transporting their guests around their properties, but most hotels do not. Anyone who has trouble walking should request accommodations near the central facilities. Make this absolutely clear when you or your travel agent make your reservations, preferably in writing. Not all hotels remember to honor such requests, so take copies of your request with you, and reiterate it when checking in.

The major international airlines make special arrangements for travelers with disabilities. Be sure to tell them of your needs when you reserve. Repeat it at the check-in counter for Air Tahiti Nui, which does not have a pre-boarding option at all airports, and whose planes often park out on the tarmac at Los Angeles International Airport, where you may ride a bus and then climb up stairs into the aircraft.

Airport security and Customs officials also will make special arrangements for travelerswith disabilities, but this is not always obvious and must be requested.

Although Air Tahiti and Air Moorea, the domestic carriers, use small planes that are not equipped for passengers with disabilities, their staff members go out of their way to help everyone get in and out of the craft.

Organizations that offer a vast range of resources and assistance include MossRehab (tel. 800/CALL-MOSS; www.mossresourcenet.org); the American Foundation for the Blind (AFB) (tel. 800/232-5463; www.afb.org); and SATH (Society for Accessible Travel & Hospitality) (tel. 212/447-7284; www.sath.org). AirAmbulanceCard.com is now partnered with SATH and allows you to preselect top-notch hospitals in case of an emergency.

Access-Able Travel Source (tel. 303/232-2979; www.access-able.com) has a comprehensive database on travel agents from around the world with experience in accessible travel; destination-specific access information; and links to such resources as service animals, equipment rentals, and access guides.

Many travel agencies offer customized tours and itineraries for travelers with disabilities. Among them are Flying Wheels Travel (tel. 507/451-5005; www.flyingwheelstravel.com); and Accessible Journeys (tel. 800/846-4537 or 610/521-0339; www.disabilitytravel.com).

Flying with Disability (www.flying-with-disability.org) is a comprehensive information source on airplane travel. Avis Rent a Car (tel. 888/879-4273) has an "Avis Access" program that provides services for customers with special travel needs. These include specially outfitted vehicles with swivel seats, spinner knobs, and hand controls; mobility scooter rentals; and accessible bus service. Be sure to reserve well in advance.

Also check out the quarterly magazine Emerging Horizons (www.emerginghorizons.com), available by subscription ($16.95 a year U.S.; $21.95 outside U.S.).

The "Accessible Travel" link at Mobility-Advisor.com (www.mobility-advisor.com) provides a variety of travel resources.

British travelers should contact Holiday Care (tel. 0845-124-9971 in U.K. only; www.holidaycare.org.uk) to access a wide range of travel information and resources for travelers with disabilities and seniors.

Tips on Accommodations

French Polynesia has a wide range of accommodations, from deluxe resort hotels to mom-and-pop guesthouses and dormitories with bunk beds.

Types of Rooms

My favorite type of hotel accommodates its guests in individual bungalows set in a coconut grove beside a sandy beach and quiet lagoon; if that's not the quintessential definition of the South Seas, then I don't know what is! Many of these are super-romantic bungalows that actually stand on stilts out over the reef (although some of these overwater units tend to be close together and thus less private than bungalows ashore elsewhere). Others are as basic as tents. In between, they vary in size, furnishings, and comfort. In all, you get to enjoy your own place, one usually built or accented with thatch and other native materials, but containing most of the modern conveniences. An increasing number of these accommodations are air-conditioned, which is a definite plus during the humid summer months from November through March. All but a few bungalows have ceiling fans, which will usually keep you comfortable during the rest of the year. Hotels of this style are widespread in the South Pacific.

Guesthouses & Family Accommodations -- In general, you'll find a significant difference in quality between French Polynesia's moderate and inexpensive accommodations. Few establishments here are comparable in price or quality to the inexpensive motels found in abundance in the U.S., Canada, Australia, and New Zealand.

The local government is encouraging the development of guesthouses and family pensions, of which there are a growing number. Many owners have used government-backed loans to acquire one-room guest bungalows with attached bathrooms. Although the bungalows are identical, the owners have added decorative touches (in some cases quite tasteful, in others barely so).

Tahiti Tourisme inspects these establishments and distributes lists of those it recommends; some are also recommended in this book. Many promote themselves through an organization known as Haere-Mai, whose website (www.haere-mai.pf) is in both French and English, and it gives the current room rates for most properties.

Local families operate most of them, so if you decide to go this route, an ability to speak some French may be essential.

Surfing for Hotels

In addition to the online travel booking sites Travelocity, Expedia, Orbitz, Priceline, and Hotwire, you can book hotels through Hotels.com; Quikbook (www.quikbook.com); and Travelaxe (www.travelaxe.net). Frankly, I always go to the hotels' own sites before booking, since many now offer their own Internet specials, which often beat the big-site prices.

One of the best independent websites for South Pacific hotel discount shopping is Fiji-based Travelmaxia.com, where scores of properties throughout the region post their specials. You can search by country for resorts, hotels, bed-and-breakfasts, dive operators, and cruises.

The Australian-based Whotif.com (tel. 300/88 7979, 866/514-3281 in the U.S., 0845 458 4567 in the U.K.; www.whotif.com) discounts rooms in French Polynesia.

Headquartered in London, www.Pacific-Resorts.com often has discounted rates for resorts in the islands.

Other websites have reviews and comments about accommodations worldwide. HotelChatter.com is a daily webzine offering coverage and critiques. Go to TripAdvisor.com or HotelShark.com for independent consumer reviews of hotels and resort properties. (Anyone can post reviews on these sites, including hotel owners themselves and "guests" who have never stayed at a property, so I read them with a proverbial grain of salt.)

It's a good idea to get a confirmation number and make a printout of any online booking transaction.

Tour Operators

Many of the international tour operators listed under "Packages for the Independent Traveler," earlier in this chapter, sell discounted hotel rooms as well as air tickets.

Another tactic is to check with the local inbound tour operators. In addition to selling tours and day trips to visitors already in the islands (that is, at hotel activities desks), these companies put together the local elements of tour packages -- such as hotel rooms and airport transfers -- for overseas wholesalers. They have the advantage of being on the scene and thus familiar with the properties. Some sell direct to inbound visitors as well as other tour companies.

Among more than a dozen Papeete-based companies, Easy Tahiti.com (www.easytahiti.com), Islands Adventures/Air Tahiti (www.islandsadventures.com), Marama Tours (www.maramatours.com), Paradise Tours (www.paradistourstahiti.com), Tahiti Nui Travel (www.tahitinuitravel.com), and Tekura Tahiti Travel (www.tahiti-tekuratravelcom) have local packages within French Polynesia.

As always, it's a good idea to get a confirmation number and make a printout of any online booking transaction.

Staying Connected

Telephones

All landline communications in and out of French Polynesia are handled by the Office des Postes et Télécommunications (OPT; www.opt.pf). Although relatively expensive, the system is modern and efficient.

How to Make Calls -- To call French Polynesia: Dial the international access code (011 from the U.S.; 00 from the U.K., Ireland, or New Zealand; or 0011 from Australia), French Polynesia's country code 689, and the local number (there are no area codes within French Polynesia).

To make international calls from within French Polynesia: First dial 00, then the country code (U.S. or Canada 1, U.K. 44, Ireland 353, Australia 61, New Zealand 64), then the area code and phone number. Calls to the U.S., Europe, Australia, and New Zealand are 103CFP (US$1.30/65p) per minute, when dialed directly.

You can make them through your hotel, though with a surcharge, which can more than double the fee.

The least expensive way to make international calls from French Polynesia may be to use a Top Phone prepaid card (tel. 50.82.08; www.top-phone.pf), available at many shops and at the Business Center in Tahiti-Faaa International Airport terminal (tel. 83.63.88). The cards come in denominations beginning at 1,000CFP (US$13/£6.30), which includes 45 minutes of talk time to the U.S., the U.K., Australia, and New Zealand. That's about 22CFP (US30¢/15p) per minute, assuming you use all 45 minutes. There is no refund for unused time.

For operator assistance: Dial tel. 3600 if you need assistance making an overseas call. The operators speak English.

To make domestic calls within French Polynesia: No prefix or area code is required for domestic long distance calls, so dial the local number.

For directory assistance: Dial tel. 3612 for local directory information (service des renseignements). The operators speak English. You can look up local numbers online at www.annuaireopt.pf (it's in French).

Toll-Free Numbers -- There are no toll-free numbers in French Polynesia. Calling a 1-800 number in the U.S. or Canada from French Polynesia is not toll-free. In fact, it costs the same as an overseas call.

Pay Phones -- Public pay phones are located at all post offices and are fairly numerous elsewhere on Tahiti, less so on the other islands. You must have a télécarte to call from public pay phones (coins won't work). The cards are sold at all post offices and by most hotel front desks and many shops in 1,500CFP, 2,000CFP, and 5,000CFP (US$19, US$25, and US$63/£9.50, £13, and £32) sizes. Insert the cards with the electronic chip facing up. Digital readouts on the phones tell you how many unites you have left on a card.

Phoning Like a Local -- The custom in the Tuamotu and Marquesas islands is to group telephone numbers in two, such as 960 569, but in most of French Polynesia, the local phone numbers are presented as three two-digit numbers -- for example, 42.29.17. If you ask someone for a number, he or she will say it like this: "quarante-deux, vingt-neuf, dix-sept" in French, or "forty-two, twenty-nine, seventeen" in English.

Cellphones

Known as "mobiles" (moo-beels) over here, cellphones are prevalent throughout the islands. No international wireless company operates in French Polynesia, however, and many American phones won't work since French Polynesia uses the Global System for Mobiles (GSM) technology. Although this quasi-universal system is gaining in popularity, only T-Mobile and Cingular/AT&T Wireless use it in the U.S., while some Rogers customers in Canada are GSM. All Europeans and most Australians use GSM. Call your wireless company to see if your phone is GSM.

If you do have a GSM phone, you may be able to use it in the islands if your home provider has a roaming agreement with Vini (tel. 48.13.13; www.vini.pf), the sole local cellphone company (until 2009, when it will be joined by Mara Telecom). Call your wireless operator and ask for "international roaming" to be activated for French Polynesia.

There's one big problem if you want to both make and receive calls from within French Polynesia. I can make local calls within French Polynesia on my home cellphone, but calling me requires expensive international calls for French Polynesians. In other words, their calls to my cellphone were routed to the United States and then back to French Polynesia!

You can get around this if (1) your GSM phone transmits and receives on the 900mHz band; (2) it has been "unlocked" from its SIM card, the removable computer chip that stores your and your provider's information; and (3) you buy a local SIM card from Vini.

Prepaid SIM cards are available at stores displaying the VINI sign. The least expensive costs about 4,500CFP (US$56/£28) and includes 30 minutes of outgoing calls. Incoming calls are free, but outgoing calls using the least expensive card cost 183CFP (US$2.30/£1.15) a minute, and that's assuming you use all of your 30 minutes.

The Travel Insider (www.thetravelinsider.info) has an excellent explanation of all this, as well as a phone-unlocking service. Click on "Road Warrior Resources" and "International Cellphone Service."

In a worst-case scenario, you can always rent a phone from Vini.

You can also buy or rent cellphones to take to French Polynesia. The chief advantage to renting a phone or SIM card in advance is that you will have it when you arrive.

I am familiar with Mobal (tel. 888/399-2418; www.mobal.com), which sells GSM phones that work here and about 150 other countries for as little as US$49 (£25) and SIM cards for less. There are no monthly fees or minimum usage requirements. Calls are billed to your credit card as you make them -- US$1.95 (£1) per minute for both incoming and outgoing calls within French Polynesia, US$3.95 (£2) from here to the U.S. and Canada, US$5.95 (£3) to other countries. Mobal gave me a U.K. cellphone number, however, so people in French Polynesia have to make expensive international calls to reach my Mobal phone. For this reason, I buy a local Vini SIM card for my unlocked phone. I still carry my Mobal phone for emergencies, and I can use it when I am traveling in other countries.

CellularAbroad (tel. 800/287-3020; www.cellularabroad.com) of Santa Monica, California, rents GSM phones and sells prepaid SIM cards for French Polynesia.

Telegraph, Telex & Fax

Telegraph, telex, and fax services are provided by the post offices. Most hotels have fax machines available for guest use (be sure to ask about the charge to use it).

Skype (Voice-Over Internet Protocol)

I save a lot of money by using Skype (www.skype.com), a broadband-based telephone service (in technical terms, Voice-over Internet protocol, or VoIP), to make free international calls from my laptop or in some cybercafes. Talking worldwide on Skype is free if the people you're calling also have it on their computers (that is, computer-to-computer calls). You can also make calls to landline phones for a fee, which is based on the country you are calling, not where you are calling from. Skype calls to landline phones in most Western countries cost about US2¢ (1p) per minute. Check Skype's website for details.

Internet & E-Mail

E-mail is as much a part of life in French Polynesia as it is anywhere else these days. Although ADSL connections are available here (ADSL is not as fast as DSL or cable access in the U.S. and other countries, but is much speedier than dial-up connections), most Internet connections are still dial-up, which will seem glacially slow if you're used to DSL or cable.

Access is also relatively expensive. MANA (tel. 50.88.88; www.mana.pf) is the only local Internet service provider (ISP), and it charges by the minute rather than by the month -- and many hotels slap a whopping fee on top of that. (My dial-up Internet and phone bills for checking my e-mail and banking sites from Tahiti hotel rooms have topped US$50/£25!) Consequently, don't expect people here to reply to your e-mail immediately. Patience definitely is a virtue when dealing with folks in French Polynesia.

Without Your Own Computer -- All but a few hotels and resorts have computers from which guests can send and receive e-mail and surf the Web. It's less expensive to go a cybercafe.

With Your Own Computer -- Some hotels now have wireless Internet connections, or wired high-speed dataports in their rooms, which I point out in the hotel listings in this guide.

Some cybercafes have wireless connections. MANA, the local provider, has hotspots on Tahiti, Moorea, Huahine, Raiatea, Tahaa, Bora Bora, Nuku Hiva, and Hiva Oa. MANA sells prepaid access cards at its office in Fare Tony, on boulevard Pomare between the Vaima Centre and the main post office. Hotels within range and some shops also sell them. One hour costs 990CFP (US$12/£6.25).

Since no international service provider has a local access number in the islands, you can't just plug in your laptop, program in the local access number, and go online. On the other hand, you can use your own computer from any hotel room by dialing up MANA's snail-pace "Anonymous" service. To do so, you must configure your laptop, as follows:

When setting up a new Network Connection in Windows, type in 0,368888 as the local access telephone number (0 is the number used to reach an outside line in all hotels here). When you make your first connection, enter both your name and your password as anonymous. (If your first try fails, retype both in all capital letters.) MANA charges 100CFP (US$1.25/65p) per minute for access time, and the cost of the local call also will be billed to your room. The hotel may well add an additional charge, so it can become very expensive very quickly.

If you bring your laptop, be sure to include a connection kit with French power and phone adapters as well as spare phone and Ethernet cables.

Sustainable Travel & Ecotourism

Climate change and rising sea levels resulting from global warming are having a noticeable impact on all the South Pacific islands. Some islanders I have known for more than 30 years tell me the seasons are now unpredictable (it's more likely to rain in the dry season, and vice versa), and the tides are higher than ever (in some places, the lagoons lap directly on dry land at high tide rather than on the beach). Indeed, most islanders don't want to hear any corporate-induced spin about there being no evidence of global warming and its consequences. They know it's true from firsthand experience.

French Polynesia has allowed resort developers to built innumerable bungalows over the lagoons. In fact, manta rays reportedly have disappeared in parts of the Bora Bora lagoon because of the construction. To the islanders beyond Bora Bora, however, their lagoons are not just places where you swim around and look at beautiful corals and sea life; they are major sources of food. Protecting their lagoons and reefs is a matter of survival. Consequently, French Polynesia does have laws protecting its lagoons, reefs, and sea life. You cannot, for example, legally break off a piece of living coral to bring home (a bad idea anyway, since sea life will emit offensive odors as soon as it dies and begins to decay).

For our part, it's up to us visitors to practice sustainable tourism, which means being careful with the environments we explore and respecting the communities we visit.

Two overlapping components of sustainable travel are ecotourism and ethical tourism. The International Ecotourism Society (TIES) defines ecotourism as responsible travel to natural areas, which conserves the environment and improves the well-being of local people. TIES suggests that ecotourists follow these principles:

• Minimize environmental impact.
• Build environmental and cultural awareness and respect.
• Provide positive experiences for both visitors and hosts.
• Provide direct financial benefits for conservation and for local people.
• Raise sensitivity to host countries' political, environmental, and social climates.
• Support international human rights and labor agreements.

You can find some eco-friendly travel tips and statistics, as well as touring companies and associations -- listed by destination under "Travel Choice" -- at the TIES website, www.ecotourism.org. Also check out Ecotravel.com, which lets you search for sustainable touring companies in several categories (water-based, land-based, spiritually oriented, and so on).

While much of the focus of ecotourism is about reducing impacts on the natural environment, ethical tourism concentrates on ways to preserve and enhance local economies and communities, regardless of location. You can embrace ethical tourism by staying at a locally owned hotel or shopping at a store that employs local workers and sells locally produced goods.

Responsible Travel (www.responsibletravel.com) is a great source of sustainable travel ideas; the site is run by a spokesperson for ethical tourism in the travel industry. Sustainable Travel International (www.sustainabletravelinternational.org) promotes ethical tourism practices, and manages an extensive directory of sustainable properties and tour operators around the world.

In the U.K., Tourism Concern (www.tourismconcern.org.uk) works to reduce social and environmental problems connected to tourism. The Association of Independent Tour Operators (AITO) (www.aito.co.uk) is a group of specialist operators leading the field in making holidays sustainable.

Volunteer travel has become increasingly popular among those who want to venture beyond the standard group-tour experience to learn languages, interact with locals, and make a positive difference while on vacation. Volunteer travel usually doesn't require special skills -- just a willingness to work hard -- and programs vary in length from a few days to a number of weeks. Some programs provide free housing and food, but many require volunteers to pay for travel expenses, which can add up quickly.

For general info on volunteer travel, visit www.volunteerabroad.org and www.idealist.org.

Before you commit to a volunteer program, it's important to make sure any money you're giving is truly going back to the local community, and that the work you'll be doing will be a good fit for you. Volunteer International (www.volunteerinternational.org) has a helpful list of questions to ask to determine the intentions and the nature of a volunteer program.

It's Easy Being Green

Here are a few simple ways you can help conserve fuel and energy when you travel:

• Each time you take a flight or drive a car, greenhouse gases release into the atmosphere. You can help neutralize this danger to the planet through "carbon offsetting" -- paying someone to invest your money in programs that reduce your greenhouse gas emissions by the same amount you've added. Before buying carbon offset credits, just make sure that you're using a reputable company, one with a proven program that invests in renewable energy. Reliable carbon offset companies include Carbonfund (www.carbonfund.org), TerraPass (www.terrapass.org), and Carbon Neutral (www.carbonneutral.org).

Insurance

Medical Insurance

Most U.S. health plans (including Medicare and Medicaid) do not provide coverage in French Polynesia, and the ones that do often require you to pay for services upfront and reimburse you only after you return home.

As a safety net, you may want to buy travel medical insurance, particularly if you're traveling to a remote or high-risk area where emergency evacuation might be necessary. If you require additional medical insurance, try MEDEX Assistance (tel. 410/453-6300; www.medexassist.com) or Travel Assistance International (tel. 800/821-2828; www.travelassistance.com; for general information on services, call the company's Worldwide Assistance Services, Inc., at tel. 800/777-8710).

Canadians should check with their provincial health plan offices or call Health Canada (tel. 866/225-0709; www.hc-sc.gc.ca) to find out the extent of their coverage and what documentation and receipts they must take home in case they are treated overseas.

Travelers from the U.K. should carry their European Health Insurance Card (EHIC), which replaced the E111 form as proof of entitlement to free/reduced-cost medical treatment abroad (tel. 0845 606 2030; www.ehic.org.uk). Note, however, that the EHIC only covers "necessary medical treatment," and for repatriation costs, lost money or baggage, and cancellations; travel insurance from a reputable company should always be sought (www.travelinsuranceweb.com).

Travel Insurance

The cost of travel insurance varies widely, depending on the destination, the cost and length of your trip, your age and health, and the type of trip you're taking, but expect to pay between 5% and 8% of the vacation itself. You can get estimates from various providers through InsureMyTrip.com. Enter your trip cost and dates, your age, and other information, for prices from more than a dozen companies.

U.K. citizens and their families who make more than one trip abroad per year may find an annual travel insurance policy works out cheaper. Check www.moneysupermarket.com, which compares prices across a wide range of providers for single- and multi-trip policies.

Most big travel agents offer their own insurance and will probably try to sell you their package when you book a holiday. Think before you sign. Britain's Consumers' Association recommends that you insist on seeing the policy and reading the fine print before buying travel insurance. The Association of British Insurers (tel. 020/7600-3333; www.abi.org.uk) gives advice by phone and publishes Holiday Insurance, a free guide to policy provisions and prices. You might also shop around for better deals: Try Columbus Direct (tel. 0870/033- 9988; www.columbusdirect.net).

Trip Cancellation Insurance

Trip-cancellation insurance will help retrieve your money if you have to back out of a trip or depart early, or if your travel supplier goes bankrupt. Trip cancellation traditionally covers such events as sickness, natural disasters, and U.S. State Department advisories. The latest news in trip-cancellation insurance is the availability of expanded hurricane coverage and the "any-reason" cancellation coverage -- which costs more, but covers cancellations made for any reason. You won't get back 100% of your prepaid trip cost, but you'll be refunded a substantial portion. TravelSafe (tel. 888/885-7233; www.travelsafe.com) has both types of coverage. Expedia also offers any-reason cancellation coverage for its air-hotel packages. For details, contact one of the following recommended insurers: Access America (tel. 866/807-3982; www.accessamerica.com); Travel Guard International (tel. 800/826-4919; www.travelguard.com); Travel Insured International (tel. 800/243-3174; www.travelinsured.com); and Travelex Insurance Services (tel. 888/457-4602; www.travelex-insurance.com).

Getting Around

By Plane

Having Air Tahiti Nui or another carrier book your domestic flights along with your international ticket will greatly simplify matters in case of a local cancellation, and you will avoid an extra fee if you have to change your flights once here.

Air Moorea -- A subsidiary of Air Tahiti , Air Moorea (tel. 86.41.41; fax 86.42.99; www.airmoorea.com) provides shuttle service between Tahiti-Faaa International Airport and Temae Airport on Moorea. Its small planes (and I do mean small) leave Faaa on the hour and half-hour daily from 6 to 9am, then on the hour from 10am to 3pm, and on the hour and half-hour again from 4 to 6pm. Each plane turns around on Moorea and flies back to Tahiti. The fare is about 3,700CFP (US$46/£24) each way, half-fare for children. Air Moorea's little terminal is on the east end of Tahiti-Faaa International Airport (that's to the left as you come out of Customs). Air Moorea will take you from the airport to your Moorea hotel for 600CFP (US$7.50/£3.75) each way, but you must buy your transfer ticket in Papeete. It is not available after you arrive on Moorea.

Air Tahiti -- The primary domestic carrier is Air Tahiti (tel. 86.44.42; fax 86.40.99; www.airtahiti.pf), which provides daily flights between Papeete and all the main islands, most in modern ATR turboprop planes seating 44 or 72 passengers. It's wise to reserve your seats as early as possible, especially during school holidays.

Air Tahiti's central downtown Papeete walk-in reservations office is at the corner of rue du 22 Septembre and rue du Maréchal Foche (tel. 47.44.00). It also has an office in the Tahiti-Faaa International Airport terminal (tel. 86.41.84).

The baggage limit on both of these airlines is 20 kilograms (44 lb.) per person if you're connecting with an international flight within 7 days, but 10 kilograms (22 lb.) per person if you're not. You will face a substantial extra charge for excess weight. You can leave your extra belongings in the storage room at your hotel or at Tahiti-Faaa International Airport.

Check-in times vary from 1 to 2 hours in advance, so ask Air Tahiti when you should arrive at the airport.

An alternative to taking Air Tahiti's scheduled flights is chartering a plane and pilot from Air Moorea, Air Tahiti, Air Archepels (tel. 81.30.30; www.airarchipels.com), or Wan Air (tel. 50.44.18; www.wanair.pf). Polynesia Hélicoptères (tel. 86.60.29; www.polynesia-helicopter.com) charters helicopters. When the total cost is split among a large enough group of people, the price per person could be less than airfare on a scheduled airline.

Most hotel dining rooms open for breakfast at 7am and close by 9:30am, so if you're catching an early morning flight to another island, stock up on some munchies and something to drink the night before, and bring them along on the plane.

Air Tahiti Fares & Money-Saving Pass -- Air Tahiti's approximate one-way adult fares on the usual visitor's circuit are as follows (double the fare for round-trips between any two islands; halve the cost for children):

Tahiti to Moorea 4,200 CFP (US$53/£27)

Moorea to Huahine 14,800 CFP (US$185/£94)

Moorea to Bora Bora 21,240 CFP (US$266/£134)

Huahine to Raiatea 6,300 CFP (US$79/£40)

Raiatea to Bora Bora 7,200 CFP (US$90/£46)

Bora Bora to Tahiti 18,100 CFP (US$226/£115)

Bora Bora to Rangiroa 27,400 CFP (US$343/£173)

Rangiroa to Tahiti 18,200 CFP (US$228/£115)

You can save by buying an Air Tahiti Pass over the popular routes. For example, the "Bora Bora Pass" permits travel over the popular Papeete-Moorea-Huahine-Bora Bora-Papeete route for about 38,800CFP (US$485/£246), which is about 10,000CFP (US$125/£63) less than the full adult fares. The "Bora Bora-Tuamotu Pass" adds Rangiroa, Tikihau, and Manihi. Whether you save anything will depend on how many islands you plan to visit, so add up the regular fares and compare to the price of the passes (they're explained on Air Tahiti's website). All travel must be completed within 28 days of the first flight, and other restrictions apply. See www.airtahiti.pf for details.

The Best Seats & Something to Eat -- It depends on the pilots and how much sightseeing they want to do, but usually you will have the best views of the islands by sitting on the left side of the Air Tahiti aircraft when you're flying from Papeete to the outer islands, on the right side returning. Make sure you have your camera and a lot of film and camera batteries at the ready.

By Ferry to Moorea

Two companies -- Aremiti (tel. 50.57.57; www.aremiti.pf) and Moorea Ferry (tel. 86.87.47 on Tahiti, or 56.34.34 on Moorea; www.mooreaferry.pf) -- run ferries between the Papeete waterfront and Vaiare, a small bay on Moorea's east coast. It can seem like madness when the boats arrive and depart at the wharves, so take your time and be sure to get on one of the fast catamarans, which take 30 minutes to cover the 19km (12 miles) between the islands. The Aremiti V is larger, faster, and more comfortable than the Moorea Express. Don't get on the Aremiti Ferry or the Moorea Ferry, which are much slower. The one-way fare on any ferry, whether fast or slow, is about 900CFP (US$11/£5.70).

Since the departure times change from day to day, I usually pick up a schedule at the ferry dock and carry it with me throughout my visit. In general, one or another of them departs Papeete about 6am, 7:30am, 9am, noon, 2:40pm, 4:05pm, and 5:30pm Monday to Friday, with extra voyages on Friday and Monday (Moorea is a popular weekend retreat for Papeete residents). Weekend hours are slightly different on each ferry.

Buses meet all ferries at Vaire, except the midday departures from Papeete, to take you to your hotel or other destination on Moorea for 500CFP (US$6.25/£3.15) per person. From Vaiare, they take about 1 hour to reach the northwest corner of Moorea.

By Ship to the Outer Islands

You can go by ship from Papeete to Huahine, Raiatea, Tahaa, and Bora Bora, but it's neither the quickest nor most comfortable way to travel, nor the most reliable.

Two cargo ferries, the Vaeanu (tel. 41.25.35; fax 41.24.34; torehiatetu@mail.pf) and the Hawaiki Nui (tel. 45.23.24; fax 45.24.44; sarlstim@mail.pf), make three voyages a week. Both have passenger cabins. Usually they depart Papeete about 4pm, arrive at Huahine during the night, and go on to the other Leeward Islands the next day. They return from Bora Bora over the reverse route. Contact the ship owners for fares and schedules, which are at the mercy of the weather and condition of the ships.

Once in the Leeward Islands, you can make the voyage between Bora Bora and Raiatea on the Maupiti Express (tel. 67.66.69 on Bora Bora, 66.37.81 on Raiatea; maupitiexpress@mail.pf). This small, fast ferry departs Bora Bora for Tahaa and Raiatea at 7am on Monday, Wednesday, and Friday, returning to Bora Bora in the late afternoon. It stops at Tahaa in both directions. On Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday, it sails from Bora Bora to Maupiti, departing at 8:30am and returning in late afternoon. In other words, it's possible to make day trips from Bora Bora to Raiatea or Maupiti. Fares on either route are 3,000CFP (US$38/£19) one-way, 4,000CFP (US$50/£25) return.

Except for the excellent Aranui 3, which is as much cruise vessel as cargo ship, ships to the Tuamotu, Marquesas, Gambier, and Austral island groups keep somewhat irregular schedules in terms of weeks or even months, not days. I once met a young Australian who took a boat to Rapa in the Austral Islands, expecting to return in a few weeks to Papeete. The ship later broke down and went into the repair yard on Tahiti, stranding him for 3 months on Rapa, where he survived on coconuts and the generosity of local residents. Consequently, I cannot recommend them. If you're interested, contact Tahiti Tourisme for a list of interisland schooners, their fares, and approximate schedules from Tahiti Tourisme. You'd best have a 3-month visa to stay in French Polynesia.

By Rental Car

Avis and Europcar have rental-car agencies (locations de voiture in French) on Tahiti, Moorea, Huahine, Raiatea, and Bora Bora. Hertz is present on Tahiti, Raiatea, and Bora Bora.

A valid driver's license from your home country will be honored in French Polynesia.

Service stations are common on Tahiti, but only in the main villages on the other islands. Expect to pay about twice as much per gallon of gasoline (essence in French) as in the United States.

Drive Defensively! -- Except for the four-lane expressways leading into Papeete, the roads here are narrow and winding. Add a penchant for speeding on the part of some locals, and you have the recipe for danger. If you rent a vehicle, keep your eyes on the road and drive defensively at all times.

Driving Rules -- Driving is on the right-hand side of the road, as in North America and continental Europe.

All persons in a vehicle must wear seat belts. If you drive or ride on a scooter or motorbike, helmets (casques, pronounced "casks") are mandatory.

Speed limits are 40kmph (24 mph) in the towns and villages, and 80kmph (48 mph) on the open road. The limit is 60kmph (36 mph) for 8km (5 miles) on either side of Papeete. The general rule on the Route 5 freeway between Papeete and Punaauia, on Tahiti's west coast, is 90kmph (54 mph), although there is one short stretch going down a hill where it's officially 110kmph (66 mph).

Drivers on the main rural roads have the right of way. In Papeete, priority is given to vehicles entering from the right side, unless an intersection is marked with a traffic light or a stop or yield sign. This rule differs from those of most other countries, so be especially careful at all intersections, especially those marked with a priorité à droite (priority to the right) sign, and give way accordingly.

Drivers are required to stop for pedestrians at marked crosswalks, but on busy streets, don't assume that drivers will politely stop for you when you try to cross.

Traffic lights in Papeete may be difficult to see, since some of them are on the far left-hand side of the street instead of on the driver's side of the intersection.

Tips for Black Travelers

Among general sources for African-American travelers, Black Travel Online (www.blacktravelonline.com) posts news on upcoming events and includes links to articles and travel-booking sites. Soul of America (www.soulofamerica.com) is a comprehensive website, with travel tips, event and family-reunion postings, and sections on historically black beach resorts and active vacations.

Agencies and organizations that provide resources for black travelers include Rodgers Travel (tel. 800/825-1775; www.rodgerstravel.com), the African American Association of Innkeepers International (tel. 877/422-5777; www.africanamericaninns.com), and Henderson Travel & Tours (tel. 800/327-2309 or 301/650-5700; www.hendersontravel.com), which has specialized in trips to Africa since 1957.

Go Girl: The Black Woman's Guide to Travel & Adventure (Eighth Mountain Press) is a compilation of travel essays by writers including Jill Nelson and Audre Lorde. The African-American Travel Guide by Wayne C. Robinson (Hunter Publishing; www.hunterpublishing.com) was published in 1997, so it may be somewhat dated. Travel and Enjoy Magazine (tel. 866/266-6211; www.travelandenjoy.com) is a travel magazine and guide. The well-done Pathfinders Magazine (tel. 877/977-PATH; www.pathfinderstravel.com) includes articles on everything from Rio de Janeiro to Ghana to upcoming ski, scuba-diving, golf, and tennis trips.

Package Deals

In addition to searching for the lowest airfare, you may want to consider booking your flight as part of a travel package. Buying a package tour is simply a way to get the airfare, accommodations, and other elements of your trip (such as car rentals, airport transfers, and sometimes even meals and activities) at the same time and often at discounted prices -- kind of like one-stop shopping. In fact, package tours usually provide the best bargains available.

Package tours are not the same thing as escorted tours, which are structured tours with a group leader.

The costs are kept down because wholesale tour operators (known as wholesalers in the travel industry) can make volume bookings on the airlines and at the hotels. Packages traditionally were then sold through retail travel agents, but many wholesalers now deal directly with the public, thus passing savings along to you, rather than part of their commissions to retail agents.

Travel packages are listed in the travel section of many Sunday newspapers. Or check ads in magazines such as Arthur Frommer's Budget Travel Magazine, Travel + Leisure, National Geographic Traveler, and Condé Nast Traveler.

Airlines frequently offer air-and-hotel packages, so be sure to check the website of Air Tahiti Nui (www.airtahitinui-usa.com).

Tahiti Tourisme has information about agencies selling packages to French Polynesia and provides links to numerous money-saving packages on its North American website (www.tahiti-tourisme.com).

International Tour Agents

Following in alphabetical order are some reputable American-based companies selling package tours. Some will discount air tickets and hotel rooms separately; that is, not as part of a package. Be sure to shop for the best deal among them.

• Blue Pacific Vacations (tel. 800/798-0590; www.bluepacificvacations.com), a division of France Vacations, is headed by John Biggerstaff and Ken Jordan, two veterans of Tahiti tourism. They will customize tours to most French Polynesian islands.

Local Tour Operators

Another tactic is to check with the South Pacific inbound tour operators; that is, companies in the islands which put together the local elements of tour packages such as hotel rooms and airport transfers. They have the advantage of being on the scene and thus familiar with the local airlines and hotels. Some sell directly to inbound visitors as well as other tour companies.

In French Polynesia, they range from Tahiti Nui Travel (www.tahitinuitravel.com), the largest travel agency, to True Tahiti Vacations (tel. 310/464-1490 in the U.S.; www.truetahitivacation.com), operated by American-born Laurel Samuela from her home on Moorea.

Other reputable firms include Easy Tahiti.com (www.easytahiti.com); Islands Adventures/Air Tahiti (www.islandsadventures.com); Marama Tours (www.maramatours.com); Paradise Tours (www.paradistourstahiti.com); and Tekura Tahiti Travel (www.tahiti-tekuratravelcom).

Escorted General-Interest Tours

Escorted tours are structured group tours, with a group leader (I prefer the old-fashioned term "tour guide"). The price usually includes everything from airfare to hotels, meals, tours, admission costs, and local transportation.

Escorted tours are not a big part of the business in these small islands, where it's easy to find your way around and book local tours and activities. Most of the travel agents I mention above, will have someone meet and greet you at the airport upon arrival, take you to your hotel, and make sure you get on any prearranged tours and activities, but you will not have a tour guide.

Some tour companies add a short stopover in Tahiti to their escorted tours of Australia and New Zealand, but these may not include a guide for the island portion. Leaders in this add-on feature include Tauck Tours (tel.; 800/788-7885; www.tauck.com); Qantas Vacations (tel. 800/641-8772; www.qantasvacations.com); Australia Escorted Tours (tel. 888/333-6607; www.australia-escorted-tours.com), and Abercrombie & Kent (tel. 800/652-7986; www.abercrombiekent.com), which adds Fiji and French Polynesia to its high-end escorted tours. Otherwise, I recommend getting a travel agent to track down an escorted tour.

Despite the fact that escorted tours require big deposits and predetermine hotels, restaurants, and itineraries, many people derive security and peace of mind from the structure they offer. Escorted tours let travelers sit back and enjoy the trip without having to drive or worry about details. They're particularly convenient for people with limited mobility and they can be a great way to make new friends.

On the downside, you'll have little opportunity for serendipitous interactions with locals. The tours can be jampacked with activities, leaving little room for individual sightseeing, whim, or adventure -- plus they often focus on the heavily touristed sites, so you miss out on many a lesser-known gem.

Calendar of Events

January

Chinese New Year. Parade, musical performances, demonstrations of martial arts, Chinese dances, and handicrafts. Between mid-January and mid-February.

Oceania International Documentary Film Festival (FIFO). Films produced by Pacific islanders are shown and judged in Papeete. Last weekend.

February

Tahiti-Moorea Marathon. Prizes worth up to US$15,000 (£7,500) entice some of the world's best runners to trot 42km (26 miles) around Moorea. Second Saturday.

March

Coming of the Gospel. Gatherings on Tahiti commemorate the anniversary of the arrival of the London Missionary Society. March 5.

May

Billabong Pro Surfing. World-class surfers compete on the waves off Teuhupoo on Tahiti Iti. First 2 weeks.

Tahiti Pearl Regatta. Yachts sail among Raiatea, Tahaa, Huahine, and Bora Bora. Mid-May.

June

Miss Tahiti, Miss Heiva, Miss Moorea, and Miss Bora Bora Contests. Candidates from around the islands vie to win the titles. It is among the biggest annual events on outer islands. Early to mid-June.

Tahiti International Golf Open. Local and international golfers vie at Atimaono Golf Course, Tahiti. Mid-June.

July

Heiva Nui. This is the festival to end all festivals in French Polynesia. It was originally a celebration of Bastille Day on July 14, but the islanders have extended the shindig into a month-long blast (it is commonly called Tiurai, the Tahitian word for July). They pull out all the stops, with parades, outrigger canoe races, javelin-throwing contests, fire walking, games, carnivals, festivals, and reenactments of ancient Polynesian ceremonies at restored maraes. Highlight for visitors: an extraordinarily colorful contest to determine the best Tahitian dancing troupe for the year -- never do the hips gyrate more vigorously. Airline and hotel reservations are difficult to come by during July, so book early and take your written confirmation with you. Last weekend in June through July.

August

Mini Fêtes. Winning dancers and singers from the Heiva Nui perform at hotels on the outer islands. All month.

September

World Tourism Day. Islanders pay homage to overseas visitors, who get discounts. Last weekend.

October

Rotui's Tour. Runners race 15km (9 miles) around Moorea's Mount Rotui. Late October.

Hawaiki Nui Va'a. Outrigger canoe racing, the national sport, takes center stage as international teams race from Huahine to Raiatea, Tahaa, and Bora Bora over 3 days. www.hawaikinuivaa.pf. Late October to early November.

Tahiti Carnival. Parades, floats, and much partying on the Papeete waterfront. Last week.

November

Tatoonesia. Local and foreign tattoo artists gather in Papeete to share designs and techniques. Early November. Followed by Exhibition "Tattoo" in late November.

All Saints' Day. Flowers are sold everywhere to families who put them on graves after whitewashing the tombstones. November 1.

December

Tiare Tahiti Flower Festival (The Tiare Days on Tahiti). Everyone on the streets of Papeete and in the hotels receives a tiare Tahiti, the fragrant gardenia that is indigenous to Tahiti. Dinner and dancing later. First week in December.

New Year's Eve. A big festival in downtown Papeete leads territory-wide celebrations. December 31.

Money

The cost of living in French Polynesia is high for local residents and visitors alike, which makes it a relatively expensive place to visit. This is especially true for those of us earning the embattled U.S. dollar, whose recent all-time low has added 25% or more to a visit here. You already know this if you prepaid your hotel room, and you will be reminded on your first morning here when you come to breakfast and find that your hotel may charge more than US$35 (£18) per person for its buffet. This is what I call waking up to "breakfast shock."

The flip side of the coin is that French Polynesia is a modern, First World place. You cannot drink the tap water on most islands, but the electricity is reliable, the airplanes and ferries ordinarily depart and arrive on time, the automated teller machines (ATMs) usually have cash to dispense, you can call anywhere in the world from a public phone, and access to the Internet is readily available. In other words, your visit should go as smoothly here as it would in any other developed country.

Currency

The local currency is the Comptoirs Français du Pacific, or French Pacific franc (CFP), which comes in coins up to 100CFP and in colorful notes ranging from 500CFP into the millions.

The Pacific franc is abbreviated "XPF" by the banks, but in this guide I use CFP, the French abbreviation.

The same franc is used in the French Pacific territories of New Caledonia and Wallis and Futuna islands.

U.S. dollar and European euro notes (but not coins) are widely accepted as cash in the islands, although at less favorable exchange rates than at banks.

You will probably get a more favorable rate if you change your money in French Polynesia rather than before leaving home.

The CFP, the U.S. Dollar & the British Pound -- The value of the CFP is pegged directly to the European euro at a rate of 1€ = 119.332CFP. At this writing, US$1 = approximately 80CFP (or, the other way around, 100CFP = US$1.25), which is the exchange rate I used to calculate the dollar values given in this guide. For British readers: At this writing, £1 = approximately 158CFP (or, 100CFP = 63p). Note: International exchange rates fluctuate depending on economic and political factors. Find the current rates at www.xe.com.

Converting in Your Head -- No decimals are used with Pacific franc units, so prices at first can seem even more staggering than they really are. Although the value of the CFP varies with the European euro, many local residents think of 100CFP as US$1 (the historical benchmark, which explains the unusual 119.332 CFP value against the European euro), and they often express prices that way to visitors. For example, if the price of something is 1,000CFP, they might say it costs US$10. Using their method, you can make a quick conversion without a calculator by thinking of 100CFP as US$1, 500CFP as US$5, 1,000CFP as US$10, and so on. That is, drop the last two zeros, then add or subtract the percentage difference between the actual rate and 100CFP. In the case of US$1 = 80CFP, for example, you would add 20%.

ATMs

The easiest and best way to get local currency is from an ATM, known as a billetterie in French and sometimes referred to in English as a "cash machine" or "cashpoint." Banque de Polynésie, Banque Socredo, and Banque de Tahiti have offices with ATMs on the main islands, and many post offices have billetteries that dispense cash against MasterCard and Visa cards. See the "Fast Facts" sections in the following island chapters for bank and ATM locations (this is essential since some of the smaller islands do not have ATMs or even banks).

The ATMs operate in both French and English, and they usually are reliable at giving cash or cash advances. Nevertheless, I carry some cash or traveler's checks with me in case the local ATM runs out of cash or is out of service.

Be sure you know your four-digit personal identification number (PIN) for each credit and debit card -- and find out your daily withdrawal limit before you leave home.

I carry two debit (that is, "cash" or "check") cards so there's a backup in case one doesn't work in a bank's ATM. You should use them to get local cash for two reasons: You get a better exchange rate than if you exchange traveler's checks, and you avoid the local banks' fees for changing cash and traveler's checks .

Visa and MasterCard tack a 1% currency conversion fee to every debit card withdrawal, and many banks add up to 5% as their own "foreign transaction fee." In addition, many banks impose a fee every time you use a card at another bank's ATM, and that fee can be higher for international transactions (up to $5 or more) than for domestic ones.

How much you will pay depends entirely on your bank. Call your bank's customer service department for information on any applicable charges.

Also, ask if your bank levies a fee even if you pay in dollars, or when you charge a U.S. dollar amount to an overseas company or website and the vendor sends the transaction through a foreign bank. You may be able to avoid fees by paying for your airfare and hotel in U.S. dollars before leaving home, such as through a travel agent.

You can withdraw cash advances from your credit cards at banks or ATMs, but high withdrawal fees make credit card cash advances a pricey way to get cash. In addition to the fees, you'll pay interest from the moment of your withdrawal, even if you pay your monthly bills on time.

Credit Cards

You can use MasterCard and Visa cards to charge your expenses at most island hotels, car-rental companies, restaurants, and large shops. Many also accept American Express. Only the major hotels and car-rental firms accept Diners Club, however, and none accept Discover cards. Always ask first, and when you're away from the main towns, don't count on putting anything on plastic.

Note that many banks now assess a 1% to 3% "transaction fee" on all charges you incur abroad (whether you're using the local currency or your native currency). Personally, I use my Capital One credit card since it charges no foreign transaction fee, nor does it have an annual fee. Read your own card member agreement -- or better yet, call your bank's customer service department -- for charges.

Traveler's Checks

I seldom use them these days, but I carry a few hundred U.S. dollars in traveler's checks in case the local ATM isn't operating. Only in emergencies do I exchange traveler's checks at banks, since all charge 500CFP (US$6.25/£3.15) or more per transaction, regardless of the amount changed.

You can get traveler's checks in most major currencies at most banks. U.S. dollar checks come in denominations of $20, $50, $100, $500, and sometimes $1,000. Generally, you'll pay a service charge ranging from 1% to 4%.

The most popular traveler's checks are offered by American Express (tel. 800/807-6233 or tel. 800/221-7282 for cardholders -- this number accepts collect calls, offers service in several foreign languages, and exempts Amex gold and platinum cardholders from the 1% fee); Visa (tel. 800/732-1322) -- AAA members can obtain Visa checks for a $9.95 fee (for checks up to $1,500) at most AAA offices or by calling tel. 866/339-3378; and MasterCard (tel. 800/223-9920).

Be sure to keep a record of your traveler's checks' serial numbers separate from the checks in the event that they are stolen or lost. You'll get a refund faster if you know the numbers.

Another option is the new prepaid traveler's check cards, reloadable cards that work much like debit cards but aren't linked to your checking account. The American Express Travelers Cheque Card, for example, requires a minimum deposit, sets a maximum balance, and has a one-time issuance fee of $14.95. You can withdraw money from an ATM (for a fee of $2.50 per transaction, not including bank fees), and the funds can be purchased in dollars, euros, or pounds. If you lose the card, your available funds will be refunded within 24 hours.

Cruises

Another way to get around the islands is by cruise ship. Indeed, Tahiti and the nearby Society Islands are ideal grounds for cruise ships, since it's barely an hour's steam from Tahiti to Moorea, half a day's voyage on to Huahine, and less than 2 hours each among Huahine, Raiatea, Tahaa, and Bora Bora. That means the ships spend most days and nights at anchor in lovely lagoons, allowing passengers plenty of time to explore the islands and play in the water. Bear in mind, however, that you'll see a lot more of the ship than you will of the islands.

Cruises could also be an affordable way to see the islands in style, since the prices usually include all meals, wine with lunch and dinner, soft drinks, and most onboard activities. You might even find a deal that includes airfare to and from Tahiti.

Likewise, these are wonderful islands for chartering a yacht and setting sail on your own.

Taking a Cruise

At press time, Silversea Cruises (tel. 800/722-9955; www.silversea.com) had announced plans to station its Prince Albert II in French Polynesia from April to October 2009, with the possibility of repeat visits thereafter. Once known as the World Discoverer, the 132-passenger ship has been refitted in order to cruise from Papeete to the seldom-visited Austral Islands and northern Marquesas.

Abercrombie & Kent (tel. 800/554-7016; www.abercrombiekent.com) often includes French Polynesia on cruises by the 118-passenger Clipper Odyssey, which specializes in out-of-the-way places. For example, its 2-week "Polynesian Paradise" cruise was scheduled to visit Bora Bora, the Tuamotu atolls, and the Marquesas Islands in October 2008, followed by a "South Seas Adventure" cruise west through the Cook Islands and Tonga to Fiji.

Adventures on the Aranui 3 -- The working cargo ship Aranui 3 (tel. 800/972-7268 in the U.S., or 42.36.21 in Papeete; fax 43.48.89; www.aranui.com) is the most interesting way to visit the out-of-the-way Marquesas Islands.

Outfitted for up to 200 passengers, this 355-foot freighter makes regular 14-day round-trips from Papeete to 6 of the 10 Marquesas Islands, with stops on the way at Fakarava and Rangiroa in the Tuamotus. While the crew loads and unloads the ship's cargo, passengers spend their days ashore experiencing the islands and islanders. Among the activities: picnicking on beaches, snorkeling, visiting villages, and exploring archaeological sites. Experts on Polynesian history and culture accompany most voyages.

Accommodations are in 10 suites, 12 deluxe cabins, 63 standard cabins, and dormitories. The suites and cabins all have private bathrooms. Suites and deluxe cabins have windows and doors opening to outside decks, and their bathrooms are equipped with bathtubs as well as showers. Standard cabins lack outside doors and have portholes instead of windows. The ship has a restaurant, bar, boutique, library, video lounge, and pool.

The ship's primary job is to haul cargo, so it does not have stabilizers and other features of a luxury liner. In other words, do not expect the same level of comfort, cuisine, and service as on the other ships cruising these waters. If you only want to sit by the pool, eat prodigious quantities of fine food, and smoke cigars, the Aranui 3 may not be your cup of tea. But for those who want to go places relatively few people visit, and learn a lot in the process, it is an excellent choice.

Fares for the complete voyage range from about US$2,079 (£1,040) for a dormitory bunk to US$5,445 (£2,723) per person for suites. All meals are included, but you have to pay your own bar bill and your airfare to and from Tahiti.

Luxury on the Paul Gauguin -- The 157m (513-ft.), 318-passenger Paul Gauguin (tel. 877/505-5370 or 904/776-6123 in the U.S., 54.51.00 in Papeete; www.rssc.com) is the most luxurious of Tahiti's cruise ships. It spends most of its year making 7-day cruises through the Society Islands, but occasionally extends to the Tuamotu and Marquesas islands, and it has even ventured as far west as Fiji. It also has environmentalist Jean-Michel Cousteau as guest lecturer on some cruises. All of the ship's seven suites and about half of its 152 staterooms have private verandas or balconies (the least expensive lower-deck units have windows or portholes). All are luxuriously appointed with minibars, TVs and VCRs, direct-dial phones, and marble bathrooms with full-size tubs. Most have queen-size beds, although some have two twins. Fares for the 1-week Society Islands cruises start at US$2,600 (£1,300) per person double occupancy.

A Lot of Company on Princess Cruises -- Princess Cruises (tel. 800/774-6237 or 904/527-6660; www.princesscruises.com) will be operating the 700-passenger Tahitian Princess on 7- and 10-night cruises in French Polynesia until late 2009, after which it will be renamed the Ocean Princess and redeployed to Asia. Its identical sister ship, the Pacific Princess, may cruise in French Polynesia thereafter (check the line's website for more information). They are the largest ships operating in French Polynesia, so you won't have the same intimacy as on the other vessels. Princess Cruises are also the least expensive, with prices starting as low as US$1,150 (£575) per person double occupancy for an interior stateroom, depending on time of year and length of voyage. Specials including airfare may be offered during the slow seasons. Passengers can make use of a sun deck, swimming pool, fitness center, casino, cabaret lounge, two bars, and four restaurants. Shore excursions are offered, but unlike the Paul Gauguin and the Star Flyer, they do not have a stern platform to support onboard watersports activities. Almost 70% of the 280 staterooms and 62 suites open to private terraces.

Dining in the Lagoon with Bora Bora Cruises -- Bora Bora Cruises, P.O. Box 40186, Papeete (tel. 54.45.05; fax 45.10.65; www.boraboracruises.com) uses two sleek, luxurious yachts, the Tu Moana and the Tia Moana, which measure in at 69m (226-ft.) and can carry up to 60 passengers in 30 staterooms spread over three decks. They make 1-week "Nomade" cruises from Bora Bora to Huahine, Raiatea, and Tahaa. The boats are small enough to anchor closer to shore than the other ships here. Consequently, passengers enjoy extras such as breakfast served in the lagoon (that's right, you actually sit at tables in the water) and movies and spa treatments on a beach. Fares are US$8,990 (£4,495) per person double occupancy.

Under Sail on the Star Flyer -- As I write, the 170-passenger, 300-foot-long tall ship Star Flyer has just begun making 7-, 10-, and 11-day cruises from Papeete through the Society and Tuamotu islands. One of the Monaco-based Star Clippers fleet (tel. 800/442-0552; www.starclippers.com), it resembles an old-time clipper ship, including an Edwardian-style library with a Belle Epoque fireplace, but is loaded with modern amenities and luxuries. Fares start at US$1,845 (£923) per person double occupancy for an interior cabin.

Fly-Fishing from the Haumana -- Avid fishermen can cast lines from the Haumana (tel. 50.06.74; fax 50.06.72; www.tahiti-haumana-cruises.com). This 34m (110-ft.), 42-passenger catamaran specializes in 3-, 4-, and 7-night cruises on the calm, shallow lagoons of Rangiroa and Tikehau in the Tuamotus. Fishing is not the primary focus of the cruises (diving, surfing, and other activities are possible), but this is one of the few vessels to carry rods, reels, and other gear. It's also a much more pleasant way to visit Rangiroa's Pink Sands and Blue Lagoon than riding a speedboat an hour each way. Although the Haumana is smaller than other ships here, its 21 air-conditioned cabins all have large windows or portholes, queen-size beds, sofas or settees, minibars, TVs, VCRs, phones, and shower-only bathrooms with hair dryers. Rates range from US$2,665 to US$5,275 (£1,333-£2,638) per person, double occupancy, including all meals, drinks, fishing, and kayak excursions.

Chartering a Yacht

If you are an experienced sailor, you can charter a yacht -- with or without skipper and crew -- and knock around some of the French Polynesian islands as the wind and your own desires dictate. The best place to start is Raiatea, which shares a lagoon with Tahaa, the only French Polynesian island that can be circumnavigated entirely within a protective reef. Depending on the wind, Bora Bora and Huahine are relatively easy blue-water trips away.

The Moorings, a respected yacht charter company based in Florida (tel. 800/535-7289 or 727/535-1446; www.moorings.com), operates a fleet of monohull and catamaran sailboats based at Apooti Marina on Raiatea's northern coast (tel. 66.35.93; fax 66.20.94; moorings@mail.pf). That's a few minutes' sail to Tahaa. Depending on the size of the boat -- they range from 11 to 15m (36-49 ft.) in length -- and the season, bareboat rates (that is, without skipper or crew) run about US$450 to US$1,700 (£225-£850) per vessel per day. Provisions are extra. The agency will check to make sure you and your party can handle sailboats of these sizes; otherwise, you pay extra for a skipper.

Also at Apooti Marina, Sunsail Yacht Charters (tel. 800/327-2276 in the U.S., 60.04.85 on Raiatea; www.sunsail.com) has a fleet of 11-to-15m (36-49 ft.) yachts. Check its arcane website for bareboat rates.

The French-owned Tahiti Yacht Charter (tel. 45.04.00; fax 45.76.00; www.tahitiyachtcharter.com) has 11-to-14m (36-45 ft.) yachts based at Papeete and Raiatea. It designs cruises throughout the territory, including lengthy voyages to the Tuamotus and Marquesas. Similar services are offered by Archipel Croisiers on Moorea (tel. 56.36.39; fax 56.35.87; www.archipels.com).

Tips for Gay and Lesbian Travelers

French Polynesia is a friendly destination for gay men and lesbians. French laws are in effect here, so it's illegal to discriminate on the basis of sexual orientation. And culturally the islands are, in general, quite tolerant. For more information, we'd suggest you look at the website of the International Gay and Lesbian Travel Association or look at the online magazine Man About World.

Health & Safety

Tahiti and French Polynesia pose no major health problem for most travelers, although it's a good idea to have your tetanus, hepatitis-A, and hepatitis-B vaccinations up-to-date.

If you have a chronic condition, you should consult your doctor before visiting the islands. For conditions like epilepsy, diabetes, or heart problems, wear a MedicAlert Identification Tag (tel. 800/825-3785; www.medicalert.org), which will immediately alert doctors to your condition and give them access to your records through MedicAlert's 24-hour hot line.

By and large, medical care is very good in Papeete. Every island also has a government clinic, and some have doctors in private practice.

Overseas health-insurance plans are not accepted here, so you will likely have to pay all medical costs upfront and be reimbursed later.

Remember to pack prescription medications in your carry-on luggage, and carry them in their original containers, with pharmacy labels affixed -- otherwise, they won't make it through airport security. Also bring along copies of your prescriptions in case you lose your pills or run out. Carry the generic name of prescription medicines, since local pharmacies primarily carry medications manufactured in France, and the brand names might be different here than in the United States.

And don't forget sunglasses and an extra pair of contact lenses or prescription glasses.

Contact the International Association for Medical Assistance to Travelers (IAMAT) (tel. 716/754-4883 or, in Canada, 416/652-0137; www.iamat.org) for tips on travel and health concerns in the countries you're visiting, and for lists of local, English-speaking doctors. The United States Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (tel. 800/311-3435; www.cdc.gov) provides up-to-date information on health hazards by region or country and offers tips on food safety. Travel Health Online (www.tripprep.com), sponsored by a consortium of travel medicine practitioners, may also offer helpful advice on traveling abroad. You can find listings of reliable medical clinics overseas at the International Society of Travel Medicine (www.istm.org).

Healthy Travels to You -- The following government websites offer up-to-date health-related travel advice:

• Australia: www.smartraveller.gov.au
• Canada: www.hc-sc.gc.ca/index_e.html
• U.K.: www.dh.gov.uk/PolicyAndGuidance/HealthAdviceForTravellers/fs/en
• U.S.: www.cdc.gov/travel

Lather Up -- The sun in these latitudes can burn your skin in a very short period of time -- even on what seems like a cloudy day. Limit your exposure, especially during the first few days of your trip. Be particularly careful from 11am to 2pm. Use sunscreen with a high protection factor (SPF30 or more) and apply it liberally. If you're going snorkeling, wear a T-shirt to avoid overexposure on your back.

Common Ailments

Minor illnesses on the islands include the common cold and the occasional outbreaks of influenza and conjunctivitis (pinkeye).

Cuts, scratches, and all open sores should be treated promptly in the Tropics. I always carry a tube of antibacterial ointment and a small package of adhesive bandages.

Tropical Illnesses

There are plenty of mosquitoes, but they do not carry deadly endemic diseases such as malaria. From time to time, the islands will experience an outbreak of dengue fever, a viral disease borne by the Adës aegypti mosquito, which lives indoors and bites only during daylight hours. Dengue seldom is fatal in adults, but you should take extra precautions to keep children from being bitten by mosquitoes if the disease is present. (Other precautions should be taken if you are traveling with children;.)

Bugs, Bites & Other Wildlife Concerns -- Living among the friendly Tahitians are some of the world's friendliest ants, roaches, geckos, crabs, and insects.

Indeed, the islands have multitudes of mosquitoes, roaches, ants, houseflies, and other insects. Ants are omnipresent here, so don't leave crumbs or dirty dishes lying around your room. A few beaches and swampy areas also have invisible sand flies -- the dreaded no-seeums or no-nos -- that bite the ankles around daybreak and dusk.

Insect repellent is widely available in most drug stores and grocery shops. The most effective contain a high percentage of "deet" (N,N-diethyl-m-toluamide).

I light a mosquito coil in my non-air-conditioned rooms at dusk in order to keep the pests from flying in, then start another one at bedtime. Grocery stores throughout the islands carry these inexpensive coils. The Fish brand coils, made by the appropriately named Blood Protection Company, seem to work best.

Multitudes of Animals

Don't bother complaining about the multitude of dogs, chickens, pigs, and squawking myna birds running loose out here, even in the finest restaurants. They are as much a part of life as the islanders themselves. And don't be frightened by those little geckos (lizards) crawling around the rafters of even the most expensive bungalows. They're harmless to us humans, but lethal to insects.

Sun Exposure

The tropical sun in the islands can be brutal, even on what seems like an overcast day. Accordingly, it's important to use sunscreen whenever you're outdoors, especially at midday. This is particularly true for children.

HIV/AIDS

Sexual relations before marriage -- heterosexual, homosexual, and bisexual -- are more or less accepted in the islands (abstinence campaigns fall on deaf ears). Both male and female prostitution is common in Papeete. HIV is present in the islands, so if you intend to engage in sex with strangers, you should exercise at least the same caution in choosing them, and in practicing safe sex, as you would at home.

Drinking Water

Tap water is safe to drink only in the city of Papeete on Tahiti and on Bora Bora. You can buy bottled spring water in any grocery store.

Be Careful in the Water

Most of French Polynesia's marine creatures are harmless to humans, but there are some to avoid. Always seek local advice before snorkeling or swimming in a lagoon away from the hotel beaches. Many diving operators conduct snorkeling tours. If you don't know what you're doing, go with them.

Wash and apply a good antiseptic or antibacterial ointment to all coral cuts and scrapes as soon as possible.

Because coral cannot grow in fresh water, the flow of rivers and streams into the lagoon creates narrow channels known as passes through the reef. Currents can be very strong in the passes, so stay in the protected, shallow water of the inner lagoons.

Sharks are curious beasts that are attracted by bright objects such as watches and knives, so be careful what you wear in the water. Don't swim in areas where sewage or edible wastes are dumped, and never swim alone if you have any suspicion that sharks might be present. If you do see a shark, don't splash in the water or urinate. Calmly retreat and get out of the water as quickly as you can, without creating a disturbance.

Those round things on the rocks and reefs that look like pincushions are sea urchins, and their calcium spikes can be more painful than needles. A sea-urchin puncture can result in burning, aching, swelling, and discoloration (black or purple) around the area where the spines entered your skin. The best thing to do is to pull any protruding spines out. The body will absorb the spines within 24 hours to 3 weeks, or the remainder of the spines will work themselves out. Contrary to popular advice, do not urinate or pour vinegar on the embedded spines -- this will not help.

Jellyfish stings can hurt like the devil but are seldom life-threatening. You need to get any visible tentacles off your body right away, but not with your hands, unless you are wearing gloves. Use a stick or anything else that is handy. Then rinse the sting with saltwater or fresh water, and apply ice to prevent swelling and to help control the pain. If you can find it at an island grocery store, Adolph's Meat Tenderizer is a great antidote.

The stone fish is so named because it looks like a piece of stone or coral as it lies buried in the sand on the lagoon bottom with only its back and 13 venomous spikes sticking out. Its venom can cause paralysis and even death. You'll know by the intense pain if you're stuck. Serum is available, so get to a hospital at once. Sea snakes, cone shells, crown-of-thorns starfish, moray eels, lionfish, and demon stingers also can be painful, if not deadly. The last thing any of these creatures wants to do is to tangle with a human, so keep your hands to yourself.

What to Do If You Get Sick away from Home

The main public hospitals and two private clinics in Papeete are up to international standards. Elsewhere you can get a broken bone set and a coral scrape tended, but you may be evacuated to Tahiti for more serious ailments. Tahiti has many well-stocked drug stores (most of their products and medications are from France), and most islands have a pharmacy.

You may have to pay all medical costs upfront and be reimbursed later. Medicare and Medicaid do not provide coverage for medical costs outside the U.S. Before leaving home, find out what medical services your health insurance covers. To protect yourself, consider buying medical travel insurance.

Staying Safe

While international terrorism is a threat throughout the world, the islands are among the planet's safest destinations. Tight security procedures are in effect at Tahiti-Faaa International Airport, but once you're on the outer islands, you are unlikely to see a metal detector, nor is anyone likely to inspect your carry-on.

The islands have seen increasing property theft in recent years, however, including occasional break-ins at hotel rooms and resort bungalows. Although street crimes against tourists are still relatively rare, friends of mine who live here don't stroll off Papeete's busy boulevard Pomare after dark. For that matter, you should stay alert wherever you are after dusk.

Don't leave valuable items in your hotel room, in your rental car, or unattended anywhere.

Women should not wander alone on deserted beaches at any time, since some Polynesian men may consider such behavior to be an invitation for instant amorous activity.

When heading outdoors, keep in mind that injuries often occur when people fail to follow instructions. Believe the experts who tell you to stay on the established trails. Hike only in designated areas, follow the marine charts if piloting your own boat, carry rain gear, and wear a life jacket when canoeing or rafting. Mountain weather can be fickle at any time. Watch out for sudden storms that can leave you drenched and send bolts of lightning your way.

The French gendarmes will come to rescue you if you get into trouble out in the wild, but believe me, they do not appreciate tourists blundering into trouble.

Fast Facts

The following facts apply to French Polynesia in general.

American Express -- The American Express representative is Tahiti Tours, on rue Jeanne-d'Arc (tel. 54.02.50; fax 42.25.15), across from the Centre Vaima in downtown Papeete. The mailing address is B.P. 627, 98713 Papeete, Tahiti, French Polynesia.

Area Codes -- French Polynesia does not have domestic area codes. The country code for calling into French Polynesia is 689.

Business Hours -- Although many shops in downtown Papeete stay open over the lunch period, general shopping and business hours are from 7:30 to 11:30am and from 2 to 5pm Monday to Friday, 8am to noon on Saturday. In addition to regular hours, most grocery stores also are open from 2 to 6pm on Saturday and from 6 to 8am on Sunday.

Camera & Film -- Photographic film and color-print processing are widely available. Digital camera batteries are available in Papeete.

Clothing -- Evening attire for men is usually a shirt and slacks; women typically wear a long, brightly colored dress (slacks or long skirts help to keep biting sand flies away from your ankles). Women sunbathe topless at most beaches (although I saw more exposed bums than breasts during my recent visit). Shorts are acceptable during the day almost everywhere. Outside Papeete, the standard attire for women is the colorful wraparound sarong known in Tahitian as a pareu, which can be tied in a multitude of ways into dresses, blouses, or skirts.

Customs -- Customs allowances are 200 cigarettes or 100 cigarillos or 50 cigars; 2 liters of liquor, champagne, or wine; 50 grams of perfume, .25 liter of eau de toilette; 500 grams of coffee and 100 grams of tea; and 30,000CFP (US$375/£190) worth of other goods. Narcotics, dangerous drugs, weapons, ammunition, and copyright infringements (that is, pirated videotapes and audiotapes) are prohibited. Pets and plants are subject to stringent regulations (don't even think of bringing your pet).

Drinking Laws -- The legal drinking age is 21. Most grocery stores sell beer, spirits, and French wines. Hinano beer is brewed locally and is less expensive than imported brands, which are taxed heavily. I bring a bottle of duty-free liquor with me.

Drug Laws -- Plenty of pot may be grown up in the hills, but possession and use of dangerous drugs and narcotics are subject to long jail terms.

Drugstores -- The main towns have reasonably well-stocked pharmacies, or chemists. Their medicines are likely to be from France.

Electricity -- Electrical power is 220 volts, 50 cycles, and the plugs are the French kind with two round, skinny prongs. Most hotels have 110-volt outlets for shavers only, so you will need a converter and adapter plugs for other appliances. Some hotels, especially those on the outer islands, have their own generators, so ask at the reception desk what voltage is supplied.

Embassies & Consulates -- The United States has a consular agent on Tahiti in Centre Tamanu Iti in Pauaauia (tel. 42.65.35; fax 50.80.96; usconsular@mail.pf), whose main function is to facilitate local residents in applying for visas from the U.S. embassy in Suva, Fiji. Australia, Austria, Belgium, Chile, Denmark, Finland, Germany, Italy, Monaco, New Zealand, Norway, the Netherlands, South Korea, Sweden, and the United Kingdom have honorary consulates in Papeete. Tahiti Tourisme has their phone numbers.

Emergencies -- If you are in a hotel, contact the staff. Otherwise, the emergency police phone number is tel. 17 throughout the territory.

Etiquette & Customs -- Even though many women go topless and wear the skimpiest of bikini bottoms at the beach, the Tahitians have a sense of propriety similar to what you find in any Western nation. Don't offend them by engaging in behavior that would not be permissible at home.

Firearms -- French Polynesians can own shotguns for hunting, but handguns are illegal.

Gambling -- There are no casinos in French Polynesia, but you can play "Lotto," the French national lottery.

Healthcare -- Highly qualified specialists practice on Tahiti, where some clinics possess state-of-the-art diagnostic and treatment equipment; nevertheless, public hospitals tend to be crowded with local residents, who get free care. Most visitors use private doctors or clinics. English-speaking physicians are on call by larger hotels. Each of the smaller islands has at least one infirmary. American health insurance plans are not recognized, so remember to get receipts at the time of treatment.

Hitchhiking -- Hitchhiking is possible in the rural parts of Tahiti and on the outer islands, but women traveling alone should be extremely cautious.

Insects -- There are no dangerous insects in French Polynesia. The only real nuisances are mosquitoes and tiny, nearly invisible sand flies known locally as no-nos, elsewhere as no-seeums. They appear at dusk on most beaches here. Wear trousers or long skirts and plenty of insect repellent (especially on the feet and ankles) to ward off the no-nos. If you forget to bring insect repellent along, look for the Off or Dolmix Pic brands at the pharmacies.

Language -- French is the official language. Most residents also speak Tahitian, and English is widely spoken among hotel and restaurant staffers.

Liquor Laws -- Regulations about where and when you can drink are liberal. Anyone who is age 21 or over can purchase alcoholic beverages at bars and grocery stores, which sell wine, beer, and spirits. Official conventionné restaurants and hotels pay reduced duty on imported alcoholic beverages, which will cost less there than at local bars and nightclubs.

Lost & Found -- Be sure to tell all of your credit card companies the minute you discover your wallet has been lost or stolen and file a report at the nearest police precinct. Your credit card company or insurer may require a police report number or record of the loss. Most credit card companies have an emergency toll-free number to call if your card is lost or stolen; they may be able to wire you a cash advance immediately or deliver an emergency credit card in a day or two.

Measurements -- French Polynesia is on the metric system. Metric measurements in this guide are listed first, followed by non-metric conversions in parentheses. Conversions for metric to non-metric, and vice versa, are available online at www.onlineconversion.com.

Mail -- All the main towns and many Papeete suburbs have post offices. Letters usually take about a week to 10 days to reach overseas destinations in either direction. Mailing addresses in French Polynesia consist of post office boxes (boîtes postales in French, or B.P. for short) but no street numbers or names. Local addresses have postal codes, which are written in front of the city or town. (If you send a letter to French Polynesia from the U.S., do not put the postal code behind the name of the town; otherwise the U.S. Postal Service may dispatch it to a zip code within the United States.)

Newspapers & Magazines -- The Tahiti Beach Press, an English-language weekly devoted to news of Tahiti's tourist industry, runs features of interest to tourists and advertisements for hotels, restaurants, real estate agents, car-rental firms, and other businesses that cater to tourists. Establishments that buy ads in it give away copies free. The daily newspapers, La Dépêche de Tahiti and Les Nouvelles, are in French. Le Kiosk in front of the Vaima Centre on boulevard Pomare in Papeete sells some international newspapers and magazines.

Police -- The emergency police phone number is tel. 17 throughout French Polynesia. The territory has two types of police: French gendarmes and local commune police. Both enforce traffic laws.

Radio & TV -- French Polynesia has government-operated AM radio stations with programming in French and Tahitian. Several private AM and FM stations in Papeete play mostly American and British musical numbers in English; the announcers, however, speak French. Two government-owned television stations broadcast in French. Most hotels pick up a local satellite service, which carries CNN International in English. The government-owned radio and TV stations can be received throughout the territory via satellite. Moorea has an American-style cable system with CNN International and HBO, both in English.

Safety -- Do not leave valuables in your hotel room or unattended anywhere. Street crimes against tourists are rare, and you should be safe after dark in the busy parks along boulevard Pomare on Papeete's waterfront. Friends of mine who live here, however, don't stroll away from the boulevard after dark. For that matter, stay alert everywhere after dusk. Women should not wander alone on deserted beaches any time, since some Polynesian men may still consider such behavior to be an invitation for instant amorous activity.

Smoking -- Although antismoking campaigns and hefty tobacco taxes have reduced the practice to a large extent, cigarette smoking is still more common in French Polynesia than in Western countries. Most office buildings and the airlines are smoke-free, and you will find nonsmoking sections in some restaurants (the French law against smoking in bars and restaurants had not taken effect here as I write). Not all hotels have nonsmoking rooms, so be sure to ask for one.

Taxes -- Local residents do not pay income taxes; instead, the government imposes stiff duties on most imported goods, and a value-added tax (VAT, or TVA in French) is included in the price of most goods and services. Only the TVA on set pearls is refundable in the European fashion. Another 12% tax will be tacked onto your hotel bills (including restaurant and bar expenses) and another 50CFP to 200CFP (US65¢-$2.50/30p-£1.25) per night for the Tahiti, Moorea, and Bora Bora communities.

Time -- Local time in the most-visited islands is 11 hours behind Greenwich Mean Time. That is 5 hours behind U.S. Eastern Standard Time or 2 hours behind Pacific Standard Time. Add 1 hour to the Tahiti time during daylight saving time in the U.S.

The Marquesas Islands are 30 minutes ahead of the rest of the territory.

Since French Polynesia is on the east side of the international date line, Tahiti has the same date as the United States, the U.K., and Europe, and is 1 day behind Australia and New Zealand.

Tipping -- Although tipping is considered contrary to the Polynesian custom of hospitality, it's a widespread practice here, especially in Papeete's restaurants (credit card forms now have a "tip" line here). Nevertheless, tipping is not expected unless the service has been beyond the call of duty. Some hotels accept contributions to the staff Christmas fund.

Useful Phone Numbers -- Air France tel. 47.47.47

Air Moorea tel. 86.41.41

Air New Zealand tel. 54.07.47

Air Tahiti tel. 86.42.42

Air Tahiti Nui tel. 46.03.03

Airport flight information tel. 86.60.60

Arimiti Ferry tel. 50.57.57 in Papeete, 56.31.10 on Moorea.

Hawaiian Airlines tel. 42.15.00

Lan Airlines tel. 50.30.10

Moorea Express Ferry tel. 45.00.30 in Papeete, 56.43.43 on Moorea.

Tahiti Tourisme tel. 50.57.12

U.S. Centers for Disease Control International Traveler's Hotline: tel. 404/332-4559

U.S. Dept. of State Travel Advisory tel. 202/647-5225 (staffed 24 hr.)

U.S. Passport Agency tel. 202/647-0518

Water -- Tap water is consistently safe to drink only in Papeete and on Bora Bora. Well water in the Tuamotu islands tends to be brackish; rainwater is used there for drinking. You can buy bottled water at every grocery store. The local brands Vaimato and Eau Royal are much less expensive than imported French waters.

Tips for Single Travelers

Having traveled alone through the islands for more years than I care to admit, I can tell you it's a great place to be unattached. After all, this is the land of smiles and genuine warmth toward strangers. The attitude soon infects visitors: All I've ever had to do to meet my fellow travelers is wander into a hotel bar, order a beer, and ask the persons next to me where they are from and what they have done here.

The top destination for singles is the Club Med on Bora Bora.

Unfortunately, the solo traveler is often forced to pay a "single supplement" charged by many resorts, cruise lines, and tours for the privilege of sleeping alone.

TravelChums (tel. 212/799-6464; www.travelchums.com) is an Internet-only travel-companion matching service hosted by respected New York-based Shaw Guides travel service.

Based in Canada, Travel Buddies Singles Travel Club (tel. 800/998-9099; www.travelbuddiesworldwide.com) runs small, intimate, single-friendly group trips and will match you with a roommate free of charge and save you the cost of single supplements.

Tips for Student Travelers

Given the high costs of travel to and in French Polynesia, it's not surprising that the islands are not on the usual backpacker trail across the South Pacific. There are many pensions (boardinghouses) here, and a few dormitories and campgrounds, but they are expensive compared to the Cook Islands and Fiji, the two hot college-age destinations out here.

If you're going on to New Zealand and Australia, you'd be wise to get an international student ID card from the International Student Travel Confederation (ISTC) (www.istc.org), which offers savings on plane tickets. It also provides basic health and life insurance and a 24-hour help line. You can apply for the card online or in person at STA Travel (tel. 800/781-4040 in North America; www.statravel.com), the biggest student-travel agency in the world; check out the website to locate STA Travel offices worldwide.

If you're no longer a student but are still under 26, you can get an International Youth Travel Card (IYTC) for the same price from the same people. The card offers some discounts (but not on museum admissions).

Travel CUTS (tel. 800/667-2887 or 416/614-2887; www.travelcuts.com) offers similar services for both Canadians and U.S. residents. Irish students may prefer to turn to USIT (tel. 01/602-1904; www.usitnow.ie), an Ireland-based specialist in student, youth, and independent travel.

Tips for Families

Some of the larger hotels are beginning to cater to families. Best is Le Meridien Bora Bora.

For the most part, however, tourism in French Polynesia is still aimed primarily at honeymooners and other couples. To be blunt, the islands are better known for sand, sea, and sex than for babysitters, nannies, and playgrounds.

That's not to say you and your offspring won't have a marvelous time here. The islanders invariably love children and are very good at babysitting. Just make sure you get one who speaks English. The hotels can take care of this for you.

On the other hand, childhood does not last as long here as it does in Western societies. As soon as they are capable, children are put to work, first caring for their younger siblings and cousins and helping out with household chores, later tending the village gardens. It's only as teenagers, and then only if they leave their villages for Papeete, that they know unemployment in the Western sense. Accordingly, few towns and villages have children's facilities, such as playgrounds, outside school property.

Some resorts do not accept children at all; I point these out in the establishment listings, but you should ask to make sure. Even if they do, check whether the hotel can provide cribs, bottle warmers, and other needs, and if they have children's menus.

Disposable diapers, cotton swabs, and baby food are sold in many main-town stores, but you should take along a supply of such items as children's aspirin, a thermometer, adhesive bandages, and any special medications. Make sure your children's vaccinations are up-to-date before you leave home. If your kids are very small, perhaps you should discuss your travel plans with your family doctor.

Remember to protect youngsters with ample sunscreen. Some other tips: Certain tropical plants and animals may resemble rocks or vegetation, so teach your youngsters to avoid touching or brushing up against rocks, seaweed, and other objects. If your children are prone to swimmer's ear, use vinegar or preventive drops before swimming in freshwater streams or lakes. Have them shower soon after swimming or suffering cuts or abrasions.

Kid-Friendly Hotels -- Some French Polynesian hotels are now friendly to children as well as to couples. Le Taha'a Private Island & Spa off Tahaa and the Pearl Resorts on Moorea, Bora Bora, Manihi, Tikehau, and Nuku Hiva now have a cartoon TV channel and age-appropriate DVDs in each unit. While adults continue to get their welcome baskets full of tropical fruits, youngsters now get their own stash of candies. The Radisson Plaza Resort Tahiti (www.radisson.com/aruefrp) allows kids 15 and under to stay free and dine for 50% off. It's a welcome money-saver.

Entry Requirements & Customs

Passports

The websites listed provide downloadable passport applications as well as the current processing fees. For an up-to-date, country-by-country listing of passport requirements around the world, go to the "Foreign Entry Requirement" page of the U.S. State Department's website at www.travel.state.gov.

All visitors to French Polynesia must have a passport that will be valid for 6 months beyond their stay here. Allow plenty of time before your trip to apply for a passport; processing normally takes 3 weeks, but can take longer during busy periods (especially spring). And keep in mind that if you need a passport in a hurry, you'll pay a higher processing fee.

For Residents of Australia: You can pick up an application from your local post office or any branch of Passports Australia, but you must schedule an interview at the passport office to present your application materials. Call the Australian Passport Information Service at tel. 131-232, or visit the government website at www.passports.gov.au.

For Residents of Canada: Passport applications are available at travel agencies throughout Canada or from the central Passport Office, Department of Foreign Affairs and International Trade, Ottawa, ON K1A 0G3 (tel. 800/567-6868; www.ppt.gc.ca).

For Residents of Ireland: You can apply for a 10-year passport at the Passport Office, Setanta Centre, Molesworth Street, Dublin 2 (tel. 01/671-1633; www.irlgov.ie/iveagh). Those under age 18 and over 65 must apply for a 3-year passport. You can also apply at 1A South Mall, Cork (tel. 021/272-525) or at most main post offices.

For Residents of New Zealand: You can pick up a passport application at any New Zealand Passports Office or download it from their website. Contact the Passports Office at tel. 0800/225-050 in New Zealand or 04/474-8100, or log on to www.passports.govt.nz.

For Residents of the United Kingdom: To pick up an application for a standard 10-year passport (5-year passport for children under 16), visit your nearest passport office, major post office, or travel agency or contact the United Kingdom Passport Service at tel. 0870/521-0410 or search its website at www.ukpa.gov.uk.

For Residents of the United States: Whether you're applying in person or by mail, you can download passport applications from the U.S. State Department website at http://travel.state.gov. To find your regional passport office, either check the U.S. State Department website or call the National Passport Information Center toll-free number (tel. 877/487-2778) for automated information.

Visas

All visitors except French nationals are required to have a passport that will be valid for 6 months beyond their intended stay, as well as a return or ongoing ticket. French citizens must bring their national identity cards.

Citizens and nationals of the United States, Canada, Argentina, Bermuda, Bolivia, Brunei, Chile, Costa Rica, Croatia, the Czech Republic, Ecuador, El Salvador, Estonia, Guatemala, Honduras, Hungary, Japan, Latvia, Lithuania, Malaysia, Mexico, New Zealand, Nicaragua, Panama, Paraguay, Poland, Singapore, Slovakia, Slovenia, South Korea, and Uruguay may visit for up to 30 days without a visa.

Nationals of Andorra, Australia, the European Union countries, Monaco, Switzerland, Iceland, Liechtenstein, Norway, St. Martin, and the Vatican, can stay up to 3 months without a visa.

Citizens from all other countries (including foreign nationals residing in the U.S.) must get a visa before leaving home.

French embassies and consulates overseas can issue "short stay" visas valid for 1 to 3 months, and they will forward applications for longer visits to the local immigration department in Papeete. Note: Visas issued by French embassies and consulates do not entitle you to visit Tahiti without being stamped "valable pour la Polynésie Française" -- valid for French Polynesia.

In the United States, the Embassy of France is at 4102 Reservoir Rd. NW, Washington, DC 20007 (tel. 202/944-6000; www.info-france-usa.org). There are French consulates in Boston, Chicago, Detroit, Houston, Los Angeles, Miami, New Orleans, New York, and San Francisco.

Transiting the U.S.

Nearly all travelers to Tahiti from the U.K. and Europe will stop in Los Angeles on the way and thus must comply with U.S. immigration procedures. Citizens of 27 countries (including the U.K., most European nations, Australia, and New Zealand) can visit and transit the U.S. without a visa, but as of January 12, 2009, they must register online at https://esta.cbp.dhs.gov more than 72 hours before leaving home under the Electronic System for Travel Authorization (ESTA) program administered by the U.S. Department of Homeland Security (www.dhs.gov). Citizens of all other countries without a visitor visa to the U.S. must obtain a C-1 transit visa from the U.S. State Department (www.unitedstatesvisas.gov), even if they don't leave the airport.

Medical Requirements

No vaccinations are required unless you are coming from a yellow fever, plague, or cholera area.

Customs

What You Can Bring into French Polynesia -- French Polynesia's Customs allowances are 200 cigarettes or 50 cigars, 2 liters of spirits or 2 liters of wine, 50 grams of perfume, .25 gram of toilet water, 500 grams of coffee, 100 grams of tea, and 30,000CFP (US$375/£189) worth of other goods. Narcotics, dangerous drugs, weapons, ammunition, and copyright infringements (that is, pirated videotapes and audiotapes) are prohibited. Pets and plants are subject to stringent regulations (don't even think of bringing your dog).

What You Can Take Home from French Polynesia -- United States Citizens: Returning U.S. citizens who have been in French Polynesia for at least 48 hours are allowed to bring back, once every 30 days, 200 cigarettes (age 18 and older), 1 liter of alcoholic beverages (age 21 and older), and US$800 worth of merchandise duty-free. You'll be charged a flat rate of 4% duty on the next US$1,000 worth of purchases. Be sure to have your receipts handy, since you must list every item if you're over the duty-free limits. On mailed gifts, the duty-free limit is US$100. You cannot bring jewelry or other items made of black coral or whalebone into the United States. Nor can you bring fresh foodstuffs; tinned foods, however, are allowed.

For more information about what you can bring back and the corresponding fees, download the invaluable free pamphlet Know Before You Go at www.cbp.gov (click on "Travel" and then "Know Before You Go"). Or request the pamphlet from U.S. Customs & Border Protection (CBP), 1300 Pennsylvania Ave. NW, Washington, DC 20229 (tel. 877/287-8667).

Canadian Citizens: For a clear summary of Canadian rules, write for the booklet I Declare, issued by the Canada Border Services Agency (tel. 800/461-9999 in Canada, or 204/983-3500; www.cbsa-asfc.gc.ca).

U.K. Citizens: For information, contact HM Customs & Excise at tel. 0845/010-9000 (from outside the U.K., 020/8929-0152), or consult their website at www.hmce.gov.uk.

Australian Citizens: A helpful brochure available from Australian consulates or Customs offices is Know Before You Go. For more information, call the Australian Customs Service at tel. 1300/363-263, or log on to www.customs.gov.au.

New Zealand Citizens: Most questions are answered in a free pamphlet available at New Zealand consulates and Customs offices: New Zealand Customs Guide for Travellers, Notice no. 4. For more information, contact New Zealand Customs, The Customhouse, 17-21 Whitmore St., Box 2218, Wellington (tel. 04/473-6099 or 0800/428-786; www.customs.govt.nz).

Tips for Travelers with Pets

Don't even think about bringing your pet to French Polynesia. Fido will be quarantined until you are ready to fly home.

Tips for Senior Travelers

Children are cared for communally in the islands' extended family systems, and so are seniors. Many islanders live with their families from birth to death. Consequently, the local governments don't provide as many programs and other benefits for persons of retirement age as in the United States and other Western countries. You won't find many senior discounts.

Nevertheless, mention the fact that you're a senior when you first make your travel reservations. All major airlines and many chain hotels offer discounts for seniors.

Members of AARP, 601 E St. NW, Washington, DC 20049 (tel. 888/687-2277 or 202/434-2277; www.aarp.org), get discounts on hotels, airfares, and car rentals. AARP gives members a wide range of benefits, including AARP The Magazine and a monthly newsletter. Anyone age 50 and over can join.

Getting There

By Plane

A few cruise ships stop in the islands on their way across the Pacific Ocean, yet today, all but a handful of visitors arrive by air.

All international flights arrive at Tahiti-Faaa International Airport (PPT), on Tahiti's northwest corner, about 11km (7 miles) west of downtown Papeete.

The Airlines

• Air Tahiti Nui (tel. 877/824-4846; www.airtahitinui-usa.com), French Polynesia's award-winning national airline, has more flights -- all on relatively new Airbus planes -- to and from Tahiti than any other airline. Some of Air Tahiti Nui's flights depart Los Angeles in the afternoon California time and arrive in Papeete in the evening local time, thus enabling you to make connections to Moorea or to get a good night's sleep on Tahiti before tackling the islands the next morning. Most of its return flights are overnight, but you arrive in Los Angeles early enough in the morning to make convenient connections to other cities. Air Tahiti Nui also flies between New York's John F. Kennedy International Airport and Papeete from April through October, with a stop in Los Angeles. Those planes keep going to Sydney, which means you can fly between New York and Australia with stops in Los Angeles and Papeete. Air Tahiti Nui also links Paris, Tokyo, Auckland, and Sydney to Papeete. It also code-shares with American Airlines and Northwest Airlines, meaning frequent fliers of those carriers can use their miles to reach Tahiti.

Arriving & Departing

Arriving -- All international flights arrive at Tahiti-Faaa International Airport, 7km (4 miles) west of downtown Papeete.

Once you've cleared Customs, you will see a visitor information booth to the right. Group tour operators will be holding signs announcing their presence. Pick up some pocket money at Banque de Polynésie, to the left as you exit Customs, or at Banque Socredo to the right. Banque de Polynésie opens its exchange window whenever international flights arrive and depart, while Banque Socredo's office is open only during normal banking hours. Both have ATMs, and Banque Socredo has a machine that will change U.S. dollars and other major notes to CFP (French Pacific francs).

I have spent many hours waiting for flights at the open-air, 24-hour snack bar to the right. There's a McDonald's next to Air Tahiti's domestic departure lounge, also to the right.

Getting to Your Hotel -- Unless you're on a package tour or your hotel has arranged a transfer, your only choice of transportation to your hotel between 10pm and 6am will be a taxi. Official fares from 8pm to 6am are 1,500CFP (US$19/£9.45) to the hotels on the west coast; 2,500CFP (US$31/£16) to downtown. Add 100CFP (US$1.25/65p) for each bag.

If you arrive when buses are running and you're in good physical condition, haul your baggage across the parking lot in front of the terminal, climb the stairs to the main road, and flag down a local bus. If you're driving a rental car, take Route 1 west to the InterContinental Resort Tahiti, the Sofitel Tahiti Maeva Beach Resort, or Le Meridien Tahiti. Route 1 east passes the Sheraton Hotel Tahiti & Spa on its way to downtown Papeete. If you're going to downtown, watch for the Route 5 signs directing you to the expressway connecting Papeete to the west coast.

Baggage Storage -- Most hotels will keep your baggage for free. The airport's baggage storage room (tel. 88.60.08; hmoea@yahoo.fr) is in the parking lot in front of the international departures gate. It's the small building behind the open-air pavilion where Tahitian women sell leis and flower crowns. Charges range from 640CFP (US$8/£4) per day for regular-size bags to 2,700CFP (US$34/£17) for large items such as surfboards and bicycles. The room opens 2 hours before every international flight departs. Regular hours are Monday 4am to 7pm, Tuesday to Thursday 5am to 11pm, Saturday 5am to 12:30am, Sunday and holidays 1pm to 12:30am. MasterCard and Visa credit cards are accepted for charges in excess of 1,200CFP (US$15/£7.60).

Don't Forget to Reconfirm -- Air Tahiti Nui requires that you reconfirm your return flight within 72 hours of departure. It's mainly so the airline will know how to contact you should the schedule change.

Departing -- Check-in time for departing international flights is 3 hours before flight time; for domestic flights, be there 2 hours in advance. All of your bags must be screened for both international and domestic flights leaving Papeete. (There are no security procedures at the outer-island airstrips.)

There is no airport departure tax for either international or domestic flights.

Note: There is no bank or currency exchange bureau in the international departure lounge, so change your money before clearing immigration.

By Cruise Ship

Although the days of great liners plying the Pacific are long gone, occasionally it may be possible to reach the islands on a cruise ship making an around-the-world voyage or being repositioned, say, from Alaska to Australia. In addition to Princess Cruises , other companies likely to have ships in the South Pacific include Cunard Line (tel. 800/528-6273; www.cunardline.com), whose vessels include the Queen Elizabeth II, and Orient Lines (tel. 800/333-7300; www.orientlines.com).

Most sell tickets through travel agents, although some offer them directly to the public on their websites.

Lindblad Expeditions (tel. 800/EXPEDITION; www.expeditions.com) occasionally has exploratory voyages from Easter Island to Tahiti, from there to Fiji, and from Fiji to Papua New Guinea.

You can also go to www.cruisecritic.com, where you can check out cruises throughout the world; www.cruise411.com, which has itineraries, deck plans, and other information; and www.cruisepage.com, with reviews of more than 300 ships.

Your best bet for steaming through the islands, however, is to fly to Tahiti and take one of the ships based here.

Tips for Women Travelers

The islands are relatively safe for women traveling alone, but don't let the charm of warm nights and smiling faces lull you into any less caution than you would exercise at home. Do not wander alone on deserted beaches. In the old days, this was an invitation for sex. If that's what you want today, that's what you'll likely get. Otherwise, it could result in your being raped. And don't hitchhike alone, either.

Check out the award-winning website Journeywoman (www.journeywoman.com), a "real life" women's travel-information network where you can sign up for a free e-mail newsletter and get advice on everything from etiquette and dress to safety. Also see the travel guide Safety and Security for Women Who Travel, by Sheila Swan and Peter Laufer (Travelers' Tales, Inc.), for common-sense tips on safe travel.

Islands in Brief

French Polynesia sprawls over an area of 5.2 million sq. km (2 million sq. miles) in the eastern South Pacific. That's about the size of Europe, excluding the former Soviet Union countries, or about two-thirds the size of the continental United States. The 130 main islands, however, consist of only 3,885 sq. km (1,500 sq. miles), an area smaller than the smallest American state of Rhode Island. Only about 260,000 souls inhabit these small specks.

The territory's five major island groups differ in terrain, climate, and, to a certain extent, people. With the exception of the Tuamotu Archipelago, an enormous chain of low coral atolls northeast of Tahiti, all but a few are "high" islands; that is, they are the mountainous tops of ancient volcanoes eroded into jagged peaks, deep bays, and fertile valleys. All have fringing, or barrier coral reefs, and blue lagoons worthy of postcards.

The Society Islands

The most strikingly beautiful and most frequently visited destinations in the South Pacific are the Society Islands, so named by Capt. James Cook, the great English explorer, in 1769 because they lie relatively close together. These include Tahiti and its nearby companion Moorea, which are also known as the Windward Islands because they sit to the east, the direction of the prevailing trade wind.

Tahiti is the most developed island in French Polynesia. Don't be surprised when you take the freeway from the airport into the noisy, bustling capital of Papeete. Chic bistros and high-rise shopping centers long ago replaced the city's stage-set wooden Chinese stores, and the glass and steel of luxury resorts out in the suburbs have supplanted its cheap waterfront hotels. If you're into cities, Papeete will be right up your alley. Even if you're not, Tahiti is well worth seeing, especially its fine museums devoted to the painter Paul Gauguin, the writer James Norman Hall, and the islanders themselves.

Most modern visitors bypass these jewels and quickly head to Moorea, just 20km (12 miles) west of Tahiti. The short journey is like being transported to another world. Moorea's mountain peaks and fingerlike bays are world-renowned for their awesome beauty. Even though parts of Moorea are beginning to seem like Papeete suburbs, the island still retains more of old Polynesia than does Tahiti. It also has numerous white-sand beaches, which are in short supply on Tahiti, where most sand is of the black volcanic variety.

To the northwest lie Bora Bora, Huahine, Raiatea, Tahaa, Maupiti, and several smaller islands. Because they are downwind of Tahiti, they are also called the Leeward Islands.

One of the world's top honeymoon destinations, Bora Bora is French Polynesia's tourism dynamo, with more resorts than any other island. Huahine is almost as beautiful as Moorea and Bora Bora, but with only a handful of hotels, it retains much of its old Polynesian charm. The administrative center of the Leeward Islands, Raiatea lacks beaches, but the deep lagoon it shares with Tahaa makes it the sailing capital of French Polynesia. Tahaa has only recently opened to tourism, with one of French Polynesia's top resorts now sitting out on a small reef islet. Virtually unscathed by tourism, but a favorite retreat of French residents of Tahiti, Maupiti has a few locally owned pensions. It can be visited on a day trip from Bora Bora.

The Tuamotu Archipelago

Across the approaches to Tahiti from the east, the 69 low-lying atolls of the Tuamotu Archipelago run for 1,159km (720 miles) on a line from northwest to southeast. The early European sailors called them the Dangerous Archipelago because of their tricky currents and because they virtually cannot be seen until a ship is almost on top of them. Even today, they are a wrecking ground for yachts and interisland trading boats. Two of them, Moruroa and Fangataufa, were used by France to test its nuclear weapons between 1966 and 1996. Others provide the bulk of Tahiti's well-known black pearls. Rangiroa, the world's second-largest atoll and the territory's best scuba-diving destination, is the most frequently visited. Neighboring Tikehau, with a much smaller and shallower lagoon, also has a modern resort hotel, as does Manihi, the territory's major producer of black pearls. To the south, the reef at Fakarava encircles the world's third-largest lagoon.

Out here you'll find marvelous snorkeling and diving in massive lagoons stocked with a vast array of sea life. The atolls may seem anticlimactic after you've seen the high islands, so I suggest visiting them before exploring the Society Islands.

The Marquesas Islands

Made famous in 2002 by the Survivor television series, the Marquesas are a group of 10 mountainous islands some 1,208km (750 miles) northeast of Tahiti. They are younger than the Society Islands, and because a cool equatorial current washes their shores, protective coral reefs have not enclosed them. As a result, the surf pounds on their shores, there are no encircling coastal plains, and the people live in a series of deep valleys that radiate out from central mountain peaks. The Marquesas have lost their once-large populations to 19th-century diseases and the 20th-century economic lure of Papeete; today, their sparsely populated, cloud-enshrouded valleys have an almost haunting air about them. Archaeological sites with their ancient tikis are prime attractions in the Marquesas.

Of the six inhabited islands, only Nuku Hiva and Hiva Oa have international standard hotels, and only they and Ua Huka and the incredibly beautiful Ua Pou have airports.

The Marquesas are best visited via Aranui 3 cruises, which visit all the inhabited islands including Fatu Hiva, another dramatic beauty.

The Austral & Gambier Islands

With no hotels or resorts, the Austral Islands, south of Tahiti, are seldom visited. They are part of a chain of high islands that continue westward into the Cook Islands. The people of the more temperate Australs, which include Rurutu, Raivavae, and Tubuai, once produced some of the best art objects in the South Pacific, but these skills have passed into time.

Far on the southern end of the Tuamotu Archipelago, the Gambier Islands are the top of a semisubmerged, middle-aged high island similar to Bora Bora. The hilly remnants of the old volcano are scattered in a huge lagoon, which is partially enclosed by a barrier reef marking the original outline of the island before it began to sink. The largest of these remnant islands is Mangareva.