Planning a trip to Greece

Sustainable Travel & Ecotourism

Greece has a population of about 11.3 million. Between 10 million and 14 million tourists visit most years -- the figures were on the low side in 2010-11. Each year, visitors use a veritable Niagara of water by flushing hotel toilets, standing under long, restorative showers, and chugging down bottles of water. And of late, several water-hungry golf courses have been built in Greece, a country in which until recently the only broad swath of grass was the lawn of the American Embassy in Athens.

Along with most of the rest of the world, Greece has not rushed to encourage responsible travel, either among themselves or from their foreign visitors. Greeks hate to be told what to do and that includes being told where to park or how to recycle. As I was trying to inch precisely between the lines marking off a small parking space in a municipal parking lot in the Peloponnese today, a car zipped ahead of me and parked lengthwise across two parking places, blocking the exit for two already properly parked cars! I've seen families ostentatiously dump beer cans and plastic bottles feet from recycling containers -- to demonstrate that no one could tell them what to do. Add to this all those foreign visitors, many of whom have no idea of the severe water shortages that perpetually plague Greece, and you begin to get an idea of how important it is to travel responsibly in Greece. Here are some hints on how to protect Greece's natural resources and make the Greeks you meet hope you come back again.

Helping to Create a Sustainable Greece -- Be sure that any match, cigarette, or flammable material that you dispose of is completely out. Summer forest fires consume thousands of acres of Greek forests every year.

Few Greek hotels ask you to conserve water and reuse bath towels because almost all hotels are afraid of antagonizing their guests. It's up to visitors to remember that the entire country, but especially the islands, face chronic severe water shortages.

Be sure to turn off all lights and the air-conditioning in your hotel room when you go out. I know more than one small island hotel that has resorted to disconnecting its air conditioners and pretending all season that they are "temporarily" out of order. "What can I do?" one proprietor asked me. "If the tourists can use the air conditioners, they leave them on high while they are out sightseeing all day."

Finally, if you want to help create a greener Greece, you can make a contribution to the Plant Your Roots in Greece Foundation, which will use your money to help reforest the denuded hills of Greece. For information, check out the website www.plantyourrootsingreece.org. And if you want to help preserve Greek wildlife, the Hellenic Wildlife Hospital (www.ekpazo.gr) on Aegina treats wounded and injured wildlife, including many of the sea turtles that are injured each year by jet skis.

Health & Safety

If you suffer from a chronic illness, consult your doctor about your travel plans before your departure. If you have special concerns, before heading abroad you might check out the United States Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (tel. 800/232-4636; www.cdc.gov/travel).

Greeks have national medical insurance. Citizens of other E.U. nations should inquire before leaving, but your policies will probably cover treatment in Greece. Non-E.U. travelers should check your health plan to see if it provides appropriate coverage; you may want to buy travel medical insurance instead. (Visit www.frommers.com/planning.) Bring your insurance ID card with you when you travel. Although you will receive emergency care with no questions asked, make sure you have coverage at home.

Drugstores/Chemists: These are called pharmikon in Greek; aside from the obvious indications in windows and interiors, they are identified by a green cross. For minor medical problems, go first to the nearest pharmacy. Pharmacists usually speak English, and many medications can be dispensed without prescription. In the larger cities, if it is closed, there should be a sign in the window directing you to the nearest open one. Newspapers also list the pharmacies that are open late or all night.

Common Ailments: Diarrhea is no more of a problem in Greece than it might be anytime you change diet and water supplies, but occasionally visitors do experience it. Common over-the-counter preventatives and cures are available in Greek pharmacies, but if you are concerned, bring your own.

If you expect to be taking sea trips and are inclined to get seasick, bring a preventative.

Allergy sufferers should carry antihistamines, especially in the spring.

Sun Exposure: Between mid-June and September, too much exposure to the sun during midday could well lead to sunstroke or heatstroke. High-SPF sunscreen and a hat are strongly advised.

Hospitals 

In Greece, modern hospitals, clinics, and pharmacies are found everywhere, and personnel, equipment, and supplies ensure excellent treatment. Dental care is also widely available. Most doctors in Greece can speak English (many having trained in North America or the U.K.).

You can also try the emergency room at a local hospital. In addition, many hospitals have walk-in clinics for emergency cases that are not life threatening; you may not get immediate attention, but you won't pay the high price of an emergency room visit. In an emergency, call a first-aid center (tel. 166), the nearest hospital (tel. 106), or the tourist police (tel. 171).

Emergency treatment is usually given free in state hospitals, but be warned that only basic needs are met. The care in outpatient clinics, which are usually open mornings (8am-noon), is often somewhat better; you can find them next to most major hospitals, on some islands, and occasionally in rural areas, usually indicated by prominent signs.

Safety

Crime directed at tourists was traditionally unheard of in Greece, but in more recent years there are occasional reports of cars broken into, pickpockets, purse snatchers, and the like. Normal precautions are called for. For instance, if you have hand luggage containing expensive items, whether jewelry or cameras, never give it to an individual unless you are absolutely sure it will be safe with him or her. Lock the car and don't leave cameras or other such gear visible. Don't leave your luggage unattended when entering or leaving hotels. Also, it is probably safer not to leave valuables unattended at beaches. And young women should observe the obvious precautions in dealing with men in isolated locales.

One other thing that might be of concern to some: Greece is undeniably exposed to earthquakes, but there are almost no known instances in recent decades of tourists being injured or killed in one of these. Of far more potential danger are automobile accidents: Greece has one of the worst vehicle accident rates in Europe. You should exercise great caution when driving over unfamiliar, often winding, and often poorly maintained roads. This holds true especially when you're driving at night. As for those who insist on renting motorbikes or similar vehicles, at the very least wear a helmet.

When to Go

Just about everyone agrees that the best time to visit Greece is spring and early summer (mid-April to mid-June) or autumn (September to mid-October).

At those times of year, you'll avoid the summer high season, with its inflated prices, hordes of tourists, and high temperatures (heat waves with temps reaching 100°F/+40C are routine). In fact, unless you actually like scorching heat, crowds, and overbooked planes, ferry boats, and hotels, August is to be avoided. Summer drawbacks loom especially large if you plan on visiting some of the more popular islands, Mykonos and Santorini first and foremost among them.

In the spring, you’ll see more wildflowers than you could have imagined, and swim in a sea that’s a bit cool but more pleasant than you had hoped for. In the autumn, you will enjoy golden days with still-warm waters.

One drawback: Off-season there are fewer boats and flights to the islands, where some shops, hotels, and restaurants do not open until June and then close in October. During the off-season life comes to a standstill on many islands, or at least turns its back on tourism, and wintertime rains can dampen any romantic notions of lonely wandering in empty landscapes.

Something else to consider if you are coming to Greece in the spring: During Easter week, nearly every hotel room outside of Athens is booked well in advance by city dwellers who head to the country to celebrate Greece's most important holiday. Many sites and museums are closed Good Friday, Easter Saturday, and Easter Sunday, while many shops close on Good Friday and Easter Saturday. When St. George's Day (usually celebrated April 23) falls during Lent, it's celebrated on the Monday after Easter Sunday, which only prolongs the Easter break. The Feast of the Virgin on August 15 is another enormous holiday.

Weather

When Greeks talk about the weather these days, they say that everything is ano kato—upside down. Some things everyone agrees on: The winters can be chilly, sometimes with unusual bursts of warm weather and sometimes even snow in Athens. It can go from warm to downright numbing. Many buildings are not insulated, and the centrally controlled heating is often intermittent, making the cold season seem very long indeed.

Summers are dry and hot, sometimes reaching 110°F (43°C). As the saying goes, only mad dogs and Englishmen would venture out in the midday sun, hence the siesta between 3pm and 6pm. The seasonal north (Etesian) winds blow mid-July to mid-August, but it can get very windy anytime, temporarily halting ferry transport.

Holidays

Every day in Greece is sacred to one or more saints. That means that every day, at least one saint is being celebrated, along with everyone named for that saint. Tiny chapels that are used only once a year are opened for a church service followed by all-day wining and dining. If you're lucky, you'll stumble on one of these celebrations.

Calendar of Events

For an exhaustive list of events beyond those listed here, check http://events.frommers.com, where you'll find a searchable, up-to-the-minute roster of what's happening in cities all over the world.

January

Feast of St. Basil (Ayios Vassilios). St. Basil is the Greek equivalent of Santa Claus. The holiday is marked by the exchange of gifts and a special cake, vassilopita, made with a coin in it; the person who gets the piece with the coin will have good luck. January 1.

Epiphany (Baptism of Christ). Baptismal fonts and water are blessed. A priest may throw a cross into the harbor and young men will try to recover it; the finder wins a special blessing. Children, who have been kept good during Christmas with threats of the kalikantzari (goblins), are allowed on the 12th day to help chase them away. January 6.

February

Carnival (Karnavali). Be ready for parades, marching bands, costumes, drinking, dancing, and general loosening of inhibitions, depending on the locale. Some scholars say the name comes from the Latin for "farewell meat," while others hold that it comes from "car naval," the chariots celebrating the ancient sea god Poseidon (Saturn, to the Romans). The city of Patras shows its support of the latter theory with its famous chariot parade and wild Saturnalia, private parties, and public celebrations. Masked revels are widely held in Macedonia. On the island of Skyros, the pagan "goat dance" is performed, reminding us of the primitive Dionysiac nature of the festivities. Crete has its own colorful versions, whereas in the Ionian Islands, festivities are more Italian. In Athens, people bop each other on their heads with plastic hammers. Celebrations last the 3 weeks before the beginning of Lent.

March

Independence Day and the Feast of the Annunciation. The two holidays are celebrated simultaneously with military parades, especially in Athens. The religious celebration is particularly important on the islands of Tinos and Hydra and in churches or monasteries named Evangelismos (Bringer of Good News) or Evangelistria (the feminine form of the name). March 25.

April

Feast of St. George (Ayios Yioryios). The feast day of the patron saint of shepherds is an important rural celebration with dancing and feasting. Arachova, near Delphi, is famous for its festivities. The island of Skyros also gives its patron saint a big party on April 23. (If the 23rd comes before Easter, the celebration is postponed until the Mon after Easter.)

Orthodox Easter and Holy Week: The Greek calendar revolves around religious holidays. Orthodox Easter (Pascha)—usually a week later than Western Easter, and the only holiday calculated according to the Julian calendar—is the nation’s biggest. Most of the native population—97% of whom are Greek Orthodox—observe the traditions. Most people who did not fast for the 40 days of Lent begin fasting during Holy Week, which starts on the Monday before Easter. On Holy Tuesday, devotees whitewash their houses and walkways. On Wednesday, they bring holy oil home from church and use it, along with sprigs of basil, to bless the households. On Holy Thursday, they receive Communion, and priests in special dress read biblical accounts of the Last Supper during an all-night vigil. At home, followers boil eggs and dye them red to symbolize the blood of Christ and rebirth. Many also bake Easter bread (tsoureki) and biscuits (koulourakia). Church bells solemnly toll on Good Friday, and at around 8pm, a candlelit procession through the parish accompanies a decorated funeral bier (epitaphios) of Christ. On Saturday, they attempt to scare away any remaining bad spirits that might hinder the Resurrection (Anastasi). Most people go to their neighborhood church just before midnight with candles (lambades); the children carry lavishly decorated ones, often received as traditional gifts from their godparents. The lights of the church are dimmed at midnight, symbolizing Christ’s death. The priest then brings out the holy flame, brought from Jerusalem for the occasion, and passes it to church members, who light one another’s candles while saying “Christos anesti” (“Christ is risen”). Youths light fireworks, and congregants return home with their lit candles and bless their homes by “drawing” a cross on the doorframe with the candle’s smoke. On Easter Sunday, they break the Lenten fast by cracking the eggs and eating magiritsa soup, made with dill, rice, avgolemono (egg-lemon) sauce, and the innards of Sunday’s roast lamb. Easter Sunday brings much feasting, drinking, and dancing, as the smell of lamb permeates the air from roof-terrace spit-roasts. At church, passages on the Resurrection are read in many languages, symbolizing world unity. Easter Monday is a national holiday.

The Good Friday exodus from Athens is amazing, and you can remain and enjoy the deserted city or, if you're fortunate and have made reservations, because Greeks take up most of the travel facilities, you can be among the celebrants in any town or village. Dancing takes place, often in traditional costumes. In a unique celebration on Patmos, the Last Supper is reenacted at the Monastery of St. John the Divine. Tip: Tourists must dress appropriately during this special time. Shorts, miniskirts, and sleeveless shirts will not only offend Greeks, but will prohibit your entry to religious sites.

May

May Day. On this urban holiday, families have picnics in the country and pick wildflowers, which are woven into wreaths and hung from balconies and over doorways. May Day is still celebrated by Greek communists and socialists as a working-class holiday. May 1.

Hippocratic Oath. Ritual recitations of the oath by the citizens of Kos honor their favorite son, Hippocrates. Young girls in ancient dress, playing flutes, accompany a young boy in procession until he stops and recites in Greek the timeless oath of physicians everywhere. May through September.

Feast of St. Constantine (Ayios Konstandinos). The first Orthodox emperor, Constantine, and his mother, St. Helen (Ayia Eleni), are honored, most interestingly, by fire-walking rituals (anastenaria) in four villages in Macedonian Greece: Ayia Eleni, Ayios Petros, Langada, and Meliki. It's a big party night for everyone named Costa and Eleni. (Name days, rather than birthdays, are celebrated in Greece.) The anniversary of the Ionian reunion with Greece is also celebrated, mainly in Corfu. May 21.

June

Athens Festival. Featured are superb productions of ancient drama, opera, orchestra performances, ballet, modern dance, and popular entertainers. The festival takes place in the handsome Odeum of Herodes Atticus, on the southwest side of the Acropolis. June to early October.

Folk-Dance Performances. The site of these performances is the theater in the Old Town of Rhodes.

Wine Festival. This festival is held annually at Daphni, about 10km (7 miles) west of Athens; wine festivals are also held on Rhodes and elsewhere.

Simi Festival. The 4-month feast features concerts, theater, storytelling, and dance, starring acclaimed Greek and international artists. With its epicenter on the tiny island of Simi, the events spill over onto seven neighboring islands: Astypalea, Halki, Kastellorizo, Karpathos, Kassos, Nissiros, and Tilos. June through September.

Lycabettus Theater. A variety of performances are presented at the amphitheater on Mount Likavitos (Lycabettus) overlooking Athens. Mid-June to late August.

Miaoulia. This celebration on Hydra honors Hydriot Admiral Miaoulis, who set much of the Turkish fleet on fire by ramming it with explosives-filled fireboats. Weekend in mid-June.

Aegean Festival. In the harbor of Skiathos town, the Bourtzi Cultural Center presents ancient drama, modern dance, folk music and folk dance, concerts, and art exhibits. June through September.

International Classical Musical Festival. This annual festival takes place at Nafplion, in the Peloponnese. One week in June or July.

Midsummer Eve. The now-dried wreaths of flowers picked on May Day are burned to drive away witches, in a version of pagan ceremonies now associated with the birth of John the Baptist on June 24, Midsummer Day. June 23 to June 24.

Navy Week. The celebration takes place throughout Greece. In Volos, the voyage of the Argonauts is reenacted. On Hydra, the exploits of Adm. Andreas Miaoulis, naval hero of the War of Independence, are celebrated. Fishermen at Plomari on Lesvos stage a festival. End of June and beginning of July.

July

Puppet Festival. Hydra's annual festival has drawn puppeteers from countries as far away as Togo and Brazil. Early July.

Dodoni Festival. Classical dramas are presented at the ancient theater of Dodoni, south of Ioannina. For information, call tel. 26510/20-090. July through September.

Epidaurus Festival. Performances of classical Greek drama take place in the famous amphitheater. For information, contact the Greek Festival Office, 4 Stadiou (tel. 210/322-1459 or 210/322-3111 to -3119, ext. 137). July to early September.

International Folklore Festival. At Naoussa, in northern Greece, both amateur and professional dance companies gather from all over the world. For information, call tel. 23320/20-211 or e-mail cioff@nao.forthnet.gr. July.

Northern Greece National Theater. Classical drama is performed in the amphitheaters in Phillipi and on the island of Thasos. You will be able to see these productions without the hassles of Athens performances. For information, call tel. 2510/223-504. July and August.

Hippokrateia Festival. Art, music, and theater come to the medieval castle of the Knights of St. John, in the main harbor of Kos. July and August.

Dionysia Wine Festival. This is not a major event, but it's fun if you happen to find yourself on the island of Naxos. For information, call tel. 22850/22-923. Mid-July.

Wine Festival at Rethymnon, Crete. Rethymnon hosts a wine festival as well as a Renaissance Festival. There are now wine festivals and arts festivals all over Greece, but among the more engaging are those held in Rethymnon. Sample the wines, then sample the Renaissance theatrical and musical performances. Mid-July to early September.

Feast of Ayia Marina. The feast of the protector of crops is widely celebrated in rural areas. July 17.

Feast of the Prophet Elijah (Profitis Elias). The prophet's feast day is celebrated in the hilltop shrines formerly sacred to the sun god Helios. The most famous shrine is on Mount Taygetos, near Sparta. July 18 to July 20.

August

Feast of the Transfiguration (Metamorphosi). This feast day is observed in the numerous churches and monasteries of that name, though they aren't much for parties. August 6.

Aeschylia Festival of Ancient Drama. Classical dramas are staged at the archaeological site of Eleusis, home of the ancient Mysteries and birthplace of Aeschylus, west of Athens. August to mid-September.

The Aegina Music Festival takes place across the island in August; information from (tel. 698/131-9332).

Feast of the Assumption of the Virgin (Apokimisis tis Panayias). On this important day of religious pilgrimage, many come home to visit, so rooms are particularly hard to find. The holiday reaches monumental proportions in Tinos; thousands of people descend on the small port town to participate in an all-night vigil at the cathedral of Panagia Evangelistria, in the procession of the town's miraculous icon, and in the requiem for the soldiers who died aboard the Greek battleship Elli on this day in 1940. August 15.

Epirotika Festival. Ioannina presents theatrical performances, concerts, and exhibitions. August to early September.

Olympus Festival. Cultural events take place in several sites around Mount Olympus, in particular at the ancient theater of Dion and in the Venetian castle of Platamonas. Throughout August.

September

Feast of the Birth of the Virgin (Yenisis tis Panayias). Another major festival, especially on Spetses, the anniversary of the Battle of the Straits of Spetses is celebrated on the weekend closest to September 8 with a reenactment in the harbor, fireworks, and an all-night bash.

Feast of the Exaltation of the Cross (Ipsosi to Stavrou). This marks the end of summer's stretch of feasts, and even Stavros has had enough for a while. September 14.

Thessaloniki Film Festival and Festival of Popular Song. That lively and sophisticated city continues to live it up. End of September.

Aegina honors its famous nut, the pistachio, with the Pistachio Festival every September.

October

Feast of St. Demetrius (Ayios Dimitrios). Particularly important in Thessaloniki, where he is the patron saint, the Demetrius Festival features music, opera, and ballet. New wine is traditionally untapped. October 26.

Ochi Day. General Metaxa's negative reply (ochi is Greek for no) to Mussolini's demands in 1940 conveniently extends the feast-day party with patriotic outpourings, including parades, folk music and folk dancing, and general festivity. October 28.

November

Feast of the Archangels Gabriel and Michael (Gavriel and Mihail). Ceremonies are held in the many churches named for the two archangels. November 8.

Feast of St. Andrew (Ayios Andreas). The patron saint of Patras provides another reason for a party in this swinging city. November 30.

December

Feast of St. Nikolaos (Ayios Nikolaos). This St. Nick is the patron saint of sailors. Numerous processions head down to the sea and to the many chapels dedicated to him. December 6.

Christmas. The day after Christmas honors the Gathering Around the Holy Family (Synaksis tis Panayias). December 25 and 26.

New Year's Eve. Children sing Christmas carols (kalanda) outdoors while their elders play cards, talk, smoke, eat, and imbibe. December 31.

Entry Requirements & Customs

Passports 

For entry into Greece, citizens of Australia, Canada, New Zealand, South Africa, the United States, and almost all other non-E.U. countries are required to have a valid passport, which is stamped upon entry and exit, for stays up to 90 days. All U.S. citizens, even infants, must have a valid passport, but Canadian children under 16 may travel without a passport if accompanied by either parent.

Citizens of the United Kingdom and other members of the European Union are required to present a valid ID (driving licenses do not qualify) for entry into Greece; you may stay an unlimited period (although you should inquire about this at a Greek consulate or at your embassy in Greece). Children under 16 from E.U. countries may travel without an ID if accompanied by either parent. All E.U. citizens are reminded that they should check the requirements for non-E.U. countries through which you might travel to get to Greece.

For stays longer than 90 days, all non-E.U. citizens will require visas from the Greek embassies or consuls in their home countries. If already in Greece, arrangements must be made with the Bureau of Aliens, 173 Leoforos Alexandras, 11522 Athens (tel. 210/770-5711). See www.frommers.com/planning for information on how to obtain a passport.

For Residents of Australia -- Contact the Australian Passport Information Service at tel. 131-232, or visit the government website at www.passports.gov.au.

For Residents of Canada -- Contact the central Passport Office, Department of Foreign Affairs and International Trade, Ottawa, ON K1A 0G3 (tel. 800/567-6868; www.ppt.gc.ca).

For Residents of Ireland -- Contact the Passport Office, Setanta Centre, Molesworth Street, Dublin 2 (tel. 01/671-1633; www.irlgov.ie/iveagh).

For Residents of New Zealand -- Contact the Passports Office at tel. 0800/225-050 in New Zealand, or 04/474-8100, or log on to www.passports.govt.nz.

For Residents of the United Kingdom -- Visit your nearest passport office, major post office, or travel agency or contact the United Kingdom Passport Service at tel. 0870/521-0410 or search its website at www.ukpa.gov.uk.

For Residents of the United States -- To find your regional passport office, either check the U.S. State Department website or call the National Passport Information Center toll-free number (tel. 877/487-2778) for automated information.

Visas

Travelers bearing passports from the European Union countries, the USA, Canada, Australia and New Zealand do not need visas, nor do citizens of many other countries. But to be sure, check with the nearest Greek consulate. And allow several weeks to get such a visa.

Customs

Passengers from North America arriving in Athens aboard international flights are generally not searched, and if you have nothing to declare, continue through the green lane. (Because of the continuing threat of terrorism, baggage is X-rayed before boarding domestic flights.) Citizens of the United States, Canada, Australia, New Zealand, and other non-E.U. countries do face a few commonsensical restrictions on what you can bring into Greece. Clearly, no narcotics: Greece is very tough on drug users. No explosives or weapons -- although upon application, a sportsman might be able to bring in a legitimate hunting weapon. Only medications for amounts properly prescribed for your own use are allowed. Plants with soil are not. Dogs and cats can be brought in, but they must have proof of recent rabies and other health shots.

What You Can Take Out of Greece: (All Nationalities): Exportation of Greek antiquities is strictly protected by law. No antiquities may be taken out of Greece without prior special permission from the Archaeological Service, 3 Polignotou, Athens. Also, you must be able to explain how you acquired your purchase -- in particular, icons or religious articles. A dealer or shopkeeper must provide you with an export certificate for any object dating from before 1830. In general, keep all receipts for major purchases in order to clear Customs on your return home.

For further information on what you're allowed to bring into your country of residence, contact one of the following agencies:

U.S. Citizens: U.S. Customs & Border Protection (CBP), 1300 Pennsylvania Ave. NW, Washington, DC 20229 (tel. 877/227-5511; www.cbp.gov).

Canadian Citizens: Canada Border Services Agency (tel. 800/461-9999 in Canada, or 204/983-3500; www.cbsa-asfc.gc.ca).

U.K. Citizens: HM Revenue & Customs tel. 0845/010-9000 (from outside the U.K., 020/8929-0152), or consult their website at www.hmce.gov.uk.

Australian Citizens: Australian Customs Service at tel. 1300/363-263, or log on to www.customs.gov.au.

New Zealand Citizens: New Zealand Customs, the Customhouse, 17-21 Whitmore St., Box 2218, Wellington (tel. 0800/428-786; www.customs.govt.nz).

Medical Requirements

There are no immunization requirements for getting into Greece, though it's always a good idea to have polio, tetanus, and typhoid covered when traveling anywhere.

Tips for Women Travelers

Young women -- especially singles or small groups -- may well find Greek males coming on to them, especially at beaches, clubs, and other tourist locales in a rather forward manner. But our informants tell us that, in general, Greek males (a) do not attempt any physical contact; and (b) sooner or later respect "No." One tactic said to work for women is to say, "I'm a Greek-American." The other advice is not to leave well-attended locales with someone you don't really know. Women should also be aware that some cafes and even restaurants are effectively male-only haunts; the males will not appreciate attempts by foreign women to enter these places.

Tips for Single Travelers

Single travelers are usually hit with a "single supplement" to the base price for package vacations and cruises, while the price of a single room is almost always well over half that for a double. To avoid such charges, you might consider agreeing to room with other single travelers or to find a compatible roommate before you go from one of the many roommate locator agencies.

Travel Buddies Singles Travel Club (tel. 800/998-9099; www.travelbuddiesworldwide.com), based in Canada, runs small, intimate, single-friendly group trips and will match you with a roommate free of charge. TravelChums (tel. 212/787-2621; www.travelchums.com) is an Internet-only travel-companion matching service with elements of an online personals-type site, hosted by the respected New York-based Shaw Guides travel service.

Many reputable tour companies offer singles-only trips. Singles Travel International (tel. 877/765-6874; www.singlestravelintl.com) offers escorted tours to places like the Greek Islands. Backroads (tel. 800/462-2848; www.backroads.com) offers "Singles + Solos" active-travel trips to destinations worldwide.

Regions in Brief

Greece is a land of sea and mountains. Over a fifth of the Greek landmass is islands, numbering several thousand if you count every floating crag -- and nowhere in Greece will you find yourself more than 96km (60 miles) from the sea. It should come as no surprise, then, that the sea has shaped the Greek imagination, as well as its history.

So, too, have the mountains. Mainland Greece is a great vertebrate, with the Pindos range reaching from north to south, and continuing, like a tail, through the Peloponnese. The highest of its peaks is Mount Olympus, the seat of the gods, nearly 3,000m (10,000 ft.) above sea level. Eighty percent of the Greek mainland is mountainous, which you will rapidly discover whether you make your way on foot or on wheels.

Athens

Whether you arrive by sea or by air, chances are you'll debark in Athens. The city is not always pleasant and is sometimes exhausting -- just to be clear, it's the noise level and traffic -- yet it's unavoidable. Its archaeological sites and its museums alone warrant a couple of days of exploration. Between visits to the sites, a stroll in the National Garden will prove reviving. Then, after dark as the city cools, the old streets of the Plaka district at the foot of the Acropolis offer you chances to stroll, shop, and have dinner with an Acropolis view. The central square, pedestrianized side streets, and residential streets of Kolonaki are where fashionable Athenians head to see and be seen -- and to do some serious shopping. Piraeus, as in antiquity, serves as the port of Athens and the jumping-off point to most of the islands.

Athens is also a great base for day trips and overnight excursions, whether to the Temple of Poseidon at Cape Sounion, the forested slopes of Mount Hymettus (Imittos), the Monastery of Kaisariani (Kessariani), the Byzantine Monastery of Daphni, the legendary plains of Marathon, or the ruins of Eleusis, place of ancient mysteries.

The Sarconic Gulf Islands

Cupped between Attica and the Peloponnese, in the sheltering Saronic Gulf, these islands offer both proximity and retreat for Athenians who, like their visitors, long for calming waters and cooler breezes. In high season, the accessibility of these islands on any given day, especially on weekends, can be their downfall. Choose carefully your day and island, or you may be part of the crowd you're trying to avoid.

Aegina, so close to Athens it can be a daily commute, is the most besieged island, yet it possesses character and charm. The main port town of Aegina is picturesque and pleasant, while across the island to the east, set atop a pine-crested hill, stands the remarkably preserved Temple of Aphaia, a Doric gem. Poros, the next island in line proceeding south, is convenient to both Athens and the Peloponnese. Its beaches and lively port are each a draw, with the picturesque rubble of an ancient, scenically situated temple thrown in. Still farther south lies vehicle-free Hydra, remarkable for its natural beauty and handsome stone mansions built by sea captains. The port of Hydra has a lot to offer and knows it, all of which is reflected in the prices. It's a great place for pleasant strolls, views, and a swim off the rocks. Spetses, the farthest of these islands from Athens, offers glades of pine trees and fine beaches -- and a great many hotels catering to package holiday tours from Europe.

The Peloponnese

Crossing the narrow isthmus -- less than 6.5km (4 miles) across at its narrowest point -- from the mainland onto the southern peninsula of Greece is a move you will never regret. The Peloponnese retains a sense of separation from the north and from the rest of Greece. Its often barren landscape is virtually forested with stunning archaeological remains, each with a richly evocative past: Mycenae, the mountain citadel of Agamemnon; Olympia, birthplace of the Olympic Games; Sparta, home of Helen and Menelaus; the palace of Nestor at Pylos; the magnificent and still-used theater of Epidaurus; the temple and stadium at Nemea; and the Bema at Corinth, where St. Paul addressed the Corinthians. The small but stately port of Nafplion provides a comfortable, convenient base from which to explore surrounding sights.

The mountain and seaside roads of the Peloponnese are unrivalled in Greece. There are several particularly spectacular routes we suggest you take. The vertiginous route from Sparta to Kalamata passes the Byzantine ghost town of Mistra and continues on through the twists and turns of Langada Pass, one of Greece's most beautiful routes. Follow the excellent road from Tripolis to Olympia that cuts through some of the most beautiful mountain scenery in Arcadia, passing traditional villages that are among the region's loveliest. And allow yourself a day or two to head to The Mani, the southernmost region of the Peloponnese, where tower-villages dot the hillsides, and coastal roads wind high above the sea.

Crete

The largest of the Greek islands, birthplace of the painter El Greco (and Zeus, they claim!), possesses a landscape so diverse, concentrated, and enchanting that no description is likely to do it justice. Especially if you rent a car and do your own exploring, a week will pass like a day. More or less circling the island on the national highway (don't imagine an interstate), you'll drive a line of inviting ports like Iraklion, the capital, Chania, Rethymnon, and Ayios Nikolaos.

Venturing into the heartland of Crete -- not far, since Crete's width ranges from 12 to 56km (7 1/2-35 miles) -- you'll find the legendary palaces of the Minoans: Knossos, Phaestos, and Ayia Triadha, to mention only a few. This is not to say that Crete is without classical sites, Byzantine monasteries, Venetian structures, and Turkish remains. It's Greece, after all. Other excursions might include the Lasithi Plain or the Amari Valley, and for the energetic, the Gorge of Samaria is indispensable.

Crete is a culinary mecca. For thousands of years its wines were sent all over the ancient world. Today, they complement the fresh goat cheese and olives -- all local and all part of Crete's spell.

The Cyclades

In antiquity, the Cyclades -- the "encirclers" or "circling islands" -- had at their center the small island of Delos, where mythology tells us that Apollo and his sister Artemis were born. Declared a sanctuary where both birth and death were prohibited, Delos was an important spiritual, cultural, and commercial hub of the Aegean. Today, its extensive remains remind visitors of its former importance. It's easy to make a day trip here from Mykonos, whose white, cubelike houses and narrow, twisting streets began to attract first a trickle and then a flood of visitors in the 1960s. Today, almost every cruise ship puts in at Mykonos for at least a few hours, so that visitors can take in the proliferation of cafes, restaurants, and shops. Those who spend a few days here can stay in boutique hotels, sip martinis in sophisticated bars -- or head inland to visit the island's less-visited villages.

Paros (sometimes called "the poor man's Mykonos"), is the transport hub of the Cyclades, with a gentle landscape, appealing villages, good beaches, and opportunities for windsurfing. From here you can get to Tinos, home to perhaps the most revered of all Greek Orthodox churches; Naxos, whose fertile valleys and high mountains lure hikers and campers; Folegandros, much of whose capital Hora is built within the walls of a medieval kastro (castle); and Santorini, which some believe to be the lost Atlantis. On Santorini you'll find a black lava beach, the impressive remains of the Minoan settlement at Akrotiri, chic restaurants, boutique hotels -- and the most spectacular sunsets in all of Greece.

The Dodecanese

This string of islands, named "the 12" despite the fact that they number more than that, nearly touch the Turkish shoreline. Except for Rhodes and Kos, all of the Dodecanese are deforested, bare bones exposed to sun and sea. But what bones! Far to the north lies Patmos (already in the 5th c. nicknamed "the Jerusalem of the Aegean"), a holy island where the Book of Revelation is said to have been penned and where the Monastery of St. John still dominates the land. Far to the south basks Rhodes, "City of the Sun," with more than 300 days of sunshine per year. For obvious reasons, it's the most touristed of the islands. Rhodes has it all: history and resorts, ruins and nightlife. There's even peace and quiet -- we'll tell you where to find it.

Between these two lie an array of possibilities, from the uncompromised traditional charm of tiny Simi to the ruins and well-known beaches of Kos. And with Turkey so close, you may want to consider an easily arranged side trip.

Central Greece

Central Greece, for our purposes, stretches from the Corinth Canal to Mount Olympus. Its landscape is vastly diverse, from the fertile Boetian plains to the snowy peaks of Parnassus and Olympus. Also here are the legendary battlegrounds of Thermopylae (where the Spartans under Leonidas delayed the Persian invasion in 480 B.C.) and Chaironeia (where Philip of Macedon defeated the Greeks in 338 B.C.).

Central Greece's best-known site is the sanctuary of Delphi, whose imposing ruins and spectacular mountainside location dazzle visitors. Farther north, in Thessaly, the monasteries on the lofty otherworldly heights of Meteora offer glimpses into the Byzantine and modern Greek world of the Orthodox Church. If you have a less austere retreat in mind, the traditional villages on the lush, gentle slopes of Pelion -- where centaurs once roamed -- are ideal places to relax under chestnut trees and read up on all that you've seen, and all that you plan to see, in Greece.

The Sporades

Whether by air, ferry, or hydrofoil, the Sporades, strewn north and east of the island of Evvia (Euboea), are readily accessible from the mainland and offer verdant forest landscapes, gold-sand beaches, and crystalline waters. That's the good news. The bad news is that they are no secret. Skiathos is the most popular. Skopelos, whose lovely port is one of the most striking in Greece, is more rugged and remote than Skiathos, with more trails and fewer nightclubs. Relatively far-off Skyros is well worth a visit, offering fishing and diving, sandy beaches, and luminously clear waters.

Western Greece

Northwestern Greece, or Epirus, is predominantly mountainous and mostly cut off by those mountains from the sea. It is unlikely that you will encounter many tourists. Nature lovers and trekkers venture here to challenge themselves hiking Vikos Gorge and the mountainous Zagori region. Epirus is not, however, without amenities and attractions.

Ioannina, on the shores of Lake Pamvotis, is the largest and most appealing city in the region; it is one of the few places in Greece where the long Muslim occupation is still manifestly visible. The traditional mountain village of Metsovo, perched several thousand feet high in the Pindos Mountains, offers a number of local attractions and hikes replete with vistas.

Only 32km (20 miles) from Ioannina lie the ruins of one of the most famous of ancient shrines, the Oracle of Zeus at Dodona, where the voice of the great lord of Olympus was believed to speak through the rustling leaves of a sacred oak tree.

The Ionian Islands

Across centuries, these islands have been the apple of more than one empire's eye. Lush, temperate, blessed with ample rain and sun, and tended like architectural gardens, they are splendid. Corfu, the most noted and ornamented, is a gem, and is sought after accordingly. Ithaka is as yet somewhat out of the tourist loop, but needs no introduction for readers of the Odyssey. With adjustments for the nearly 3,000 years that have elapsed, Homer's descriptions of the island still hold their own. If you can do without name recognition, Kefalonia, relatively inconspicuous and unspoiled, has a lot to offer: picturesque traditional villages, steep rocks plunging into the sea, fine beaches, and excellent local wine.

Thessaloniki & Northern Greece

Just as it once was the urban understudy of Constantinople, Thessaloniki is modern Greece's second city. With less than 20% of Athens's population, however, it is not a close second. Even so, among Greece's major cities, it may be second to none in visual appeal and international flair. Among the city's many attractions are the legendary White Tower and its archaeological and Byzantine museums. As a home base, it offers comfortable proximity to many of Macedonia's major sites.

Macedonia is Greece's largest geographical region -- rich in natural beauty, soaked in history, and mostly removed from the epicenters of the tourist explosion that, in places, has almost leveled the diverse traditions and cultures of Greece. Besides Thessaloniki, Macedonia is home to three major archaeological sites associated with Alexander and his father -- Pella, Vergina, and Dion -- as well as the location of the independent religious state of Mount Athos. This mountaintop theocracy, off-limits to women since the year 1060, may be viewed from cruise ships (departing from Thessaloniki) or visited with special permission -- but only by men.

The Northeastern Aegean Islands

The four major islands comprising this group form Europe's traditional sea border with the East. Beyond their strategic and thus richly historic location, they offer a taste of Greece that is less compromised by tourism and more deeply influenced by nearby Asia Minor and modern Turkey. Samos, unique among the islands in the extent to which it is covered with trees, produces excellent local wine. Its important archaeological sites and opportunities for outdoor activities make it a congenial and interesting destination, and it is an ideal place from which to enter and explore the northwestern Turkish coast. Hios is unspoiled and welcoming, offering isolated and spectacular beaches, as well as the stunning monastery of Nea Moni and some of Greece's most striking village architecture. The remaining islands of Lesvos and Limnos, for various reasons not major tourist destinations, have their ways of inviting and rewarding those who explore them.

Money

Frommer's lists exact prices in the local currency (the euro). However, rates fluctuate, so before you leave, check a website like www.oanda.com/currency/converter online for the latest rates The currency in Greece is the euro (pronounced evro in Greek), abbreviated "eu" and symbolized by €. (If you still own the old drachmas, it is no longer possible to exchange them.)

The euro comes in seven paper notes and eight coins. The notes are in different sizes and colors. They are in the following denominations: 5, 10, 20, 50, 100, 200, and 500. (Considering that each euro is worth over $1, those last bills are quite pricey!) Six of the coins are officially "cents" -- but in Greece they have become referred to as lepta, the old Greek name for sums smaller than the drachma. They come in different sizes and their value is 1, 2, 5, 10, 20, and 50. There are also 1€ and 2€ coins. Although one side of the coins differs in each of the member E.U. nations, all coins and bills are legal tender in all countries using the euro.

Warning: The 1€ and 2€ coins look similar to a 1 lira Turkish coin -- worth less than half the 1€, so count your change carefully.

It's a good idea to exchange at least some money -- enough to cover airport incidentals and transportation to your hotel -- before you leave, so you can avoid lines at airport ATMs. You can exchange money at your local American Express or Thomas Cook office or at some banks.

For many decades after World War II, Greece was one of the great bargain destinations for tourists. But since the 1990s, it can no longer be described this way. It may not be in the category of London or New York or Paris or Tokyo, but in the major cities and hot spots, hotels are no longer bargains and the upscale restaurants are comparable to restaurants in most other developed countries. Admission to major museums and archaeological sites is comparable to fees in other major cities. Flights within Greece are expensive, as are car rentals -- especially in high season. But it is still possible to have a reasonably modest holiday in Greece. You can start by visiting outside the high season -- July and August. Pick midprice hotels and restaurants -- and make sure breakfast is included in your hotel price. Look for deals on car rentals. Fly off-peak hours, and avoid expensive services such as spas or purchases such as jewelry. As noted frequently throughout this guide, the current economic flux in Greece may lead to discounted rates at hotels and restaurants -- it's always worth asking.

For help with conversions, tip calculations, and more, download Frommer's Travel Tools app for your mobile device. Go to www.frommers.com/go/mobile and click on the Travel Tools icon.

ATMS

In commercial centers, airports, all cities and larger towns, and most tourist centers, you will find at least a couple of machines accepting a wide range of cards. Smaller towns will often have only one ATM -- and it may not accept your card. Commercial Bank (Emboriki Trapeza) services PLUS and Visa; Credit Bank (Trapeza Pisteos) and AlphaBank accept Visa and American Express; National Bank (Ethiniki Trapeza) takes Cirrus and MasterCard/Access.

But for all the prevalence of ATMs, you should keep at least some actual cash on you for those occasions when all the ATMs you can locate are out of order or out of cash. Keep enough euros or your own currency to get you through at least 24 hours.

Note: Greek ATMs accept only a four-digit PIN -- you must change yours before you go. And since Greek ATMs use only numeric PINs (personal identification numbers), before you set off for Greece be sure you know how to convert letters to numerals as the alphabet will be in Greek.

Credit Cards

In Greece, Visa and MasterCard are the most widely accepted cards. Diners Club is less widely accepted. And American Express is still less frequently accepted because it charges a higher commission and is more protective of the cardholder in disagreements.

Three Warnings about Debit & Credit Cards -- As part of banks' and credit card companies' increasing concern about fraud, it is our experience that they are apt to deny your cards if you go to use them too far out of your normal circuit of use. It's a wise idea to contact your cards' customer service department by phone and inform them of your travel plans.

Meanwhile, perhaps you have been reading about the new Chip-and-PIN (aka "Smart Cards") credit cards that are being introduced throughout much of the world. Unlike the long-standard credit cards that have only a magnetic strip, these have a small chip embedded in them and then require the user to enter a PIN. The European Union has required all its member nations to introduce these, but as of this writing, most American issuers of credit cards have not adopted them. This means that Americans abroad may face a problem when presenting their standard magnetic strip cards: some places may claim that they are no longer acceptable. In fact, they are: If the individual rejecting your card doesn't know this, he must punch in your card number manually -- and you must provide them with that card's PIN. So, if you do not know your card's PIN, you must call your card issuer and obtain one (for MasterCard, call tel. 800/622-7747; for Visa, tel. 800/857-2911). Allow some time for this as it may involve sending mail from and back to the issuer. Note: This problem does not arise if you are using a card as a debit card, which already requires its PIN.

Credit cards are accepted throughout Greece in the better hotels and at most shops. But even many of the better restaurants in major cities do not accept credit cards, and certainly most restaurants and many smaller hotels in Greece do not. Some hotels that require a credit card number when you make advance reservations will demand payment in cash; inquire beforehand if this will be the case.

Beware of hidden credit card fees while traveling. Check with your credit or debit card issuer to see what fees, if any, will be charged for overseas transactions. Recent reform legislation in the U.S., for example, has curbed some exploitative lending practices. But many banks have responded by increasing fees in other areas, including fees for customers who use their cards while out of the country. Fees can amount to 3% or more of the purchase price. Check with your bank to avoid any surprise charges on your statement.

What Things Cost in Athens

Taxi from the airport to downtown Athens 35-50€

Double room, moderate 90-110€

Double room, inexpensive 65-85€

Three-course dinner for one without wine, moderate 12-20€

Bottle of beer 2.50-4€

Cup of coffee 1.50-3.50€

1 gallon/1 liter of gas 6.70/1.75€

Admission to museums and archaeological sites 2-12€

Tips for Student Travelers

In Greece, students with proper identification (ISIC and IYC cards) are given reduced entrance fees to archaeological sites and museums, as well as discounts on admission to most artistic events, theatrical performances, and festivals. So you'd be wise to arm yourself with an International Student Identity Card (ISIC), which offers substantial savings on rail passes, plane tickets, and entrance fees. It also provides you with basic health and life insurance and a 24-hour help line. The card is available for $22 from STA Travel (tel. 800/781-4040; www.statravel.com), the biggest student travel agency in the world.

The International Student Travel Confederation (ISTC; www.istc.org) was formed in 1949 to make travel around the world more affordable for students. Check out its website for comprehensive travel services information for students.

If you're no longer a student but are still under 26, you can get an International Youth Travel Card (IYTC) from the same people, which entitles you to some discounts. Travel CUTS (tel. 800/592-2887; www.travelcuts.com) offers similar services for both Canadians and U.S. residents. Irish students may prefer to turn to USIT (tel. 01/602-1906; www.usit.ie), an Ireland-based specialist in student, youth, and independent travel.

A Hostelling International membership can save students money in some 5,000 HI hostels in 70 countries (including Greece), where sex-segregated, dormitory-style sleeping quarters cost about $15 to $35 per night. In Greece, an International Guest Card can be obtained at the Greek Association of Youth Hostels (OESE), in Athens at 75 Dhamereos, Athens 11633 (tel. 210/751-9530; www.athens-yhostel.com).

Tips on Accommodations

Greece offers a full spectrum of accommodations ranging from the extravagant to the basic. Within a given locale, of course, not all options are available, but most readers will find something that appeals to them.

Hotels used to be required to publicize a grading system imposed by the Greek government. Classes still exist and are indicated by stars, but these are based more on facilities such as public areas, pools, and in-room amenities than on any comfort or service ratings. (Each room's rate should be posted on the inside of the door.) Basically it is a market economy, for hotels know better than to ask for too much because competitors will undercut them. Frommer's own rating system of stars and icons for special features takes care of all such differences.

International travelers will be familiar with some of the major chains -- the Westin, Hilton and Best Western, for example. A number of Greek chains, such as Louis and Chandris, also own numerous hotels, while several hotels now belong to the Luxury Collection of Starwood Hotels and Resorts. These latter tend to be extremely upscale hotels. However, most Greek hotels are independent lodgings run by hands-on owners.

Be aware that a double room in Greece does not always mean a room with a double bed, but might be a room with twin beds. Double beds in Greece are called "matrimonial beds," and rooms with such beds are often designated "honeymoon rooms." This can lead to misunderstandings.

Climate Control in Greek Hotels -- Most of the Greek hotels recommended now promise air-conditioning in the hot season and heating in the colder months. The equipment is indeed there, but you should be aware that except in the most expensive hotels, neither will necessarily be as adequate as you might like.

Ask for Discounts -- If you're watching your budget (and who isn't?), ask for the cheapest room at hotels and inquire about special offers. If tourism continues to decline, and the Greek economy remains troubled, many hotels may offer seriously discounted prices. Still, expect weekend hotel prices to be much higher than during the week, due to weekend travel by the Greeks themselves.

Reserving a Room (for How Many?) -- Try to make reservations by fax so that you have a written record of the room and the agreed-upon price. If you booked by e-mail, bring a printout of your confirmed reservation.

Note that in a few instances -- usually at the most expensive hotels -- the prices quoted are per person. (We indicate this in our recommendations.) Note, too, that room prices, no matter what people say officially, are often negotiable, especially at the edges of the season. Because of Greek law and EOT regulations, hotel keepers are often reluctant to provide rates far in advance and often quote prices higher than their actual rates. When you bargain, don't cite our prices, which may be too high, but ask instead for the best current rate. Actual off-season prices may be as much as 25% lower than the lowest rate given to us for this guide.

Rentals (Apartments & Houses)

An increasingly popular way to experience Greece is to rent an apartment or a house; the advantages include freedom from the formalities of a hotel, often a more desirable location, and a kitchen that allows you to avoid the costs and occasional crush of restaurants. Such rentals do not come cheap, but if you calculate what two or more people might pay for a decent hotel, not to mention all the meals eaten out, a rental can turn out to be a good deal. (Cost per person per day in a really nice apartment runs about 100€; a fancier villa with two bedrooms might cost about 200€ per person per day.) Any full-service travel agency in your home country or in Greece should be able to put you in touch with an agency specializing in such rentals.

The fact is that the British dominate this field in Greece, in terms of both experience and sheer numbers of offerings. So via the Internet, anyone can now see what's offered and contact such outfits as Simply Travel Ltd., Columbus House, Westwood Way, Coventry CV4 8TT (tel. 0871/231-4050; www.simplytravel.co.uk); or Pure Crete, Bolney Place, Cowfold Road, Haywards Heath, West Sussex RH17 5Q7 (tel. 1444/881-402; www.purecrete.com). Among those in the United States are Villas International, 17 Fox Lane, San Anselmo CA 94960 (tel. 800/221-2260; www.villasintl.com); and Villas and Apartments Abroad, 183 Madison Ave., Suite 201, New York, NY 10016 (tel. 212/213-6435; www.vaanyc.com). In Canada, try Grecian Holidays, 1315 Lawrence Ave, East, Toronto, Ontario M3A 3R3 (tel. 800/268-6786; www.grecianholidays.com).

For apartment, farmhouse, or cottage stays of 2 weeks or more, Idyll Untours (tel. 888/868-6871; www.untours.com) provides exceptional vacation rentals for a reasonable price -- which includes air/ground transportation, cooking facilities, and on-call support from a local resident. Best of all: Untours -- named the "Most Generous Company in America" by Newman's Own -- donates most profits to provide low-interest loans to underprivileged entrepreneurs (visit the website for details).

Another option is to rent a traditional house in one of about 12 relatively rural or remote villages or settlements throughout Greece. These small traditional houses have been restored by the Greek National Tourism Organization (GNTO or EOT); to learn more about this possibility, contact the GNTO office nearest you.

Getting Around

By Plane

Compared to the cheaper fare classes on ships and ferries, air travel within Greece can be expensive, but we recommend it for those pressed for time and/or heading for more distant destinations (even if the planes don't always hold strictly to their schedules). Until the late 1990s, Olympic Air maintained a monopoly on domestic air travel and had little incentive to improve service. Eventually it declared bankruptcy, and it was not until 2009 that it was purchased by the Greek-based Marfin Investment Group, which is proceeding with a major overhaul and improvement of services -- better computerized booking, reducing delays, and more hospitable flight attendants. It should be said that Olympic has had one of the best safety records of any major airline.

Book as far ahead of time as possible (especially in summer), reconfirm your booking before leaving for the airport, and arrive at the airport at least an hour before departure; the scene at a check-in counter can be quite hectic.

Olympic Air has offices in Athens, though most travel agents sell tickets. (For online booking, www.olympicair.com) It offers mainland service to Aktaion Preveza, Alexandroupolis, Ioannina, Kalamata, Kavala, Kastoria, Kozani, and Thessaloniki. As for islands, Olympic services Astipalea; Corfu (aka Kerkira); Iraklion, Chania, and Sitia, Crete; Hios (aka Chios); Ikaria; Karpathos; Kassos; Kastellorizo; Kefalonia; Kos; Kithira; Leros; Limnos; Milos; Mykonos; Mitilini (aka Lesvos); Naxos; Paros; Rhodes; Samos; Santorini (aka Thira); Skiathos; Skyros; Siros; and Zakinthos.

Olympic's domestic flights leave from the new international airport at Spata. Most flights are to or from Athens, although during the summer there may be some interisland service. The baggage allowance is 15 kilos (33 lb.) per passenger, except with a connecting international flight; even the domestic flights generally ignore the weight limit unless you are way over. Smoking is prohibited on all domestic flights.

A round-trip ticket costs double the one-way fare. To most destinations within Greece from Athens, round-trip fares (including taxes) at this writing have been about 180€. From Athens to the nearer destinations, fares drop to about 130€. As you can see, such fares are not especially cheap, but there's no denying that for those with limited time, air travel is the best way to go. Ask, too, if Olympic still offers reduced fares for trips Monday through Thursday and trips that include a Saturday-night stay.

Only one other airline provides a real alternative to Olympic: Aegean Airlines. Check www.aegeanair.com, which allows you to order e-tickets. Its prices now pretty much match those of Olympic but are sometimes significantly cheaper. Their service is limited, but includes Alexandroupolis, Chania, Chios, Corfu, Ioannina, Iraklion, Kavala, Kos Mitilini, Mykonos, Patras, Rhodes, Samos, Santorini, and Thessaloniki. They also offer direct flights to London, Paris, Rome, Brussels, Barcelona, Madrid, Milan, Moscow, Bologna, Cyprus, and several major German cities. Foreign travel agents and travel booking websites may not be aware of Aegean Airlines, so visit the airline's actual website. People who have been flying Aegean for several years now find the airline reliable, safe, and hospitable.

In recent years, two other airlines have started up: Athens Airways (www.athensairways.com) and Sky Express (www.skyexpress.gr). Both offer limited service between Athens and various major cites and islands. Sky Express actually seems to be more like a charter airline. You are invited to look into their respective websites, but we must state that we cannot yet recommend these airlines based on either our own or friends' personal experience.

Note: Most Greek domestic tickets are nonrefundable, and changing your flight can cost you up to 30% within 24 hours of departure and 50% within 12 hours.

By Car

Driving in Greece is a bit of an adventure, but there's no denying that it's the best way to see the country at your own pace. By and large, the public transportation system outside of the main cities simply doesn't arrange its schedules for the convenience of tourists. Note: Greece has one of the highest accident rates in Europe, probably due somewhat to treacherous roads, mountain terrain, and poor maintenance of older cars as much as to reckless driving -- although Greeks are certainly aggressive drivers. Athens is a particularly intimidating place in which to drive at first, and parking spaces are practically nonexistent in the center of town. (Main routes in and out of cities are sometimes signed by white arrows on blue markers.) A few of the major cities are linked to Athens by modern expressways with tolls; as these highways are currently being upgraded -- and sections are to be privatized -- it is difficult to tell the exact toll charges, but the toll for Athens to Thessaloniki, for instance, has been about 5€ and may well go up. Accidents must be reported to the police for insurance claims.

If you intend to do a fair amount of driving, acquire a good, up-to-date map before you set off. The best source is a British shop that allows for online ordering, www.themapstore.com.

The Greek Automobile Touring Club (ELPA), 395 Mesoyion, 11343 Athens (tel. 210/606-8800), with offices in most cities, can help you with all matters relating to your car, issue International Driver's Licenses, and provide maps and information (tel. 174, 24 hr. daily). ELPA's emergency road service number is tel. 104. Though the service provided by the able ELPA mechanics is free for light repairs, definitely give a generous tip.

The price of gasoline fluctuates considerably from week to week and from service station to service station, but as of the time this guide went to press it was about 1.75€ per liter -- which works out to about US$9.75 for an American gallon. There is no shortage of gasoline stations in all cities, good-size towns, and major tourist centers, but if you are setting off for an excursion into one of the more remote mountain areas or to an isolated beach, fill up on gas before setting out.

Car Rentals -- You will find no end of car-rental agencies throughout Greece, both the familiar international ones and many Greek firms. There is considerable variation in prices, although rates in high season are shockingly high. But we'd be wary of renting from some local agency just because it seems a bit cheaper: if anything goes wrong with your car while out in the countryside, they will probably not be able to do much to help you.

Many cars have a standard shift; if you must have an automatic, make sure in advance that one is available (and be prepared to pay extra). In high season you are strongly advised to make your reservation before leaving home and well in advance. Always ask if the quoted price includes insurance; many credit cards make the collision-damage waiver unnecessary, but you will find that most rental agencies automatically include this in their rates. You can sometimes save by booking at home before you leave; this is especially advisable in summer. If you are shopping around, let the agents see the number of competitors' brochures you're carrying.

Most companies require that the renter be at least 21 years old (25 for some car models). There are occasional reports that some car-rental agencies will not rent to drivers 75 or over -- or even 70 -- but this does not seem to be an issue in Greece. If in doubt, inquire beforehand of the rental company. Technically you should possess an International Driver's License, but many car-rental agencies do accept a valid Australian, Canadian, E.U. nation, or U.S. driver's license. You must also have a major credit card (or be prepared to leave a very large cash deposit).

The major car-rental companies in Athens are Avis (tel. 210/322-4951), Budget (tel. 210/349-8700), Hertz (tel. 210/922-0102), National (tel. 210/349-3400), and AutoEurope (tel. 00800/11574-0300); all have offices in major cities, at most airports, and on most islands. Smaller local companies usually have lower rates, but their vehicles are often older and not as well maintained. If you prefer to combine your car rental with your other travel arrangements, we recommend Galaxy Travel, 35 Voulis, near Syntagma Square (tel. 210/322-2091; www.galaxytravel.gr). It's open Monday through Saturday during the tourist season.

Rental rates vary widely -- definitely ask around. In high season, daily rates with unlimited mileage will be about 65€ for a compact and 135€ for a full-size car; weekly rates with unlimited mileage might run 240€ for a compact and 300€ for a full size. In low season, rates are often negotiable in Greece when you show up in person. The prices quoted should include the various taxes (although there may be a surcharge for pickup and drop-off at airports in high season.)

Note: If you intend to take your car on a ferry or into a foreign country, you must have written permission from the car-rental agency.

Warning on Car Rentals & Licenses -- Legally, all non-E.U. drivers in Greece are required to carry an International Driver's License. In practice, most car-rental agencies will rent to Americans and other non-E.U. drivers with their national driver's licenses, although they usually have to have been licensed for at least 1 year. (One major exception is on the island of Hios, where the International Driver's License is usually required.) This is fine as long as you don't get involved in an accident -- especially one involving personal injury. Then you could discover that your insurance is voided on a technicality. Meanwhile, you run the risk of an individual policeman insisting that you must have the international license. Best, then, is to obtain one before leaving home (from your national automobile association) or from the Greek Automobile Touring Club (EPLA).

Driving Rules -- In Greece, you drive on the right, pass on the left, and yield right of way to vehicles approaching from the right except where otherwise posted. Greece has adopted international road signs, although many Greeks apparently haven't learned what they mean yet. The maximum speed limit is 100kmph (62 mph) on open roads, and 50kmph (30 mph) in town, unless otherwise posted. Seat belts are required. The police have become stricter in recent years, especially with foreigners in rental cars; alcohol tests can be given and fines imposed on the spot. (If you feel you have been stopped or treated unfairly, get the officer's name and report him at the nearest tourist police station.) Honking is illegal in Athens, but you can hear that law broken at any odd moment.

Parking -- Parking a car has become a serious challenge in the cities and towns of Greece. The better hotels provide parking, either on their premises or by arrangement with a nearby lot (our hotel reviews include information on where to park). Greece has few public parking garages or lots; follow the blue signs with the white P and you may be lucky enough to find a space. Most city streets have restricted parking of one kind or another. In some cities, signs -- usually yellow, and with the directions in English as well as in Greek -- will indicate that you can park along the street but must purchase a ticket from the nearest kiosk. Otherwise, be prepared to park fairly far from your base or destination. If you lock the car and remove valuables from sight, you should not have to worry about a break-in.

Taxi Tips: Fares, Zones & Surcharges

Certainly in Athens and several other large cities, travelers may prefer a taxi to driving themselves. Here are some tips that will help you understand and navigate the taxi system as you travel in Greece:

• Taxi rates are in constant (upward) flux, so the rates you see here are the ones in effect as we go to press. First, (if it's before midnight), check to see that the number next to the Euro display on the meter is "1" and not "2" -- the latter is the setting for rates for midnight to 5am or outside the city limits (about double the regular rate). If that's not the case, indicate that you notice.

• All fares are subject to change (by law, that is), but at the time this guide went to press, the meter is allowed to start at the basic 1.20€ as you set off -- check to see if this is the case. Drivers have been known to start with a higher number already registered; or they leave the meter off, then try to extort a larger fare from you. Even if you don't speak a word of Greek besides "taxi," point at the meter and say "meter." The basic rate is higher between midnight and 5am.

• The fare from and to the airport in Athens has been fixed at 35€ except between midnight and 5am when it is 50€. (The fare depends on the arrival time at the destination.) The minimum fare for any trip in and around Athens and Piraeus is 3.10€ and 4€ for the rest of the country. But you shouldn't pay much more than 15€ for a trip within Athens itself.

• At least in the major cities you should be able to ask for receipt from the meter -- if not printed, you can ask the driver to write one out. By the way, the taxi should also have the A/C on when the weather calls for it -- and do not let the driver charge you extra for it.

• For a group, a driver may insist that each person pay the full metered fare. Pay only your proportion of the fare if all of you have the same destination. Pairs or groups of tourists should have a designated arguer; the others can write down names and numbers, stick with the luggage, or look for help -- from a policeman, maitre d', or desk clerk.

• Late at night, especially at airports, ferry stops, and bus and railroad stations, a driver may refuse to use his meter and demand an exorbitant fare. Smile, shake your head, and look for another cab; if none are available, start writing down the driver's license number and he will probably relent.

• Again, these may change, but at press time, legal surcharges include: 2.80€ for the Thessaloniki airport, and 2.30€ for other major airports; .95€ pickup at ports, bus terminals, or train terminals; .35€ per piece of luggage over 10 kilos (22 lb.). (Road tolls are charged to the passengers -- for example, you will pay 2€ for the new road from the airport to Athens.) Radio taxis (called from hotels, for instance) get a 2.50€ surcharge, 5€ for a fixed appointment.

• A driver may say that your hotel is full, but that he knows a better and cheaper one. Laugh, and insist you'll take your chances at your hotel.

• A driver may want to let you off where it's most convenient for him. Be cooperative if it's easier and quicker for you to cross a busy avenue than for him to get you to the other side, but you don't have to get out until you're ready.

If things are obviously not going well for you, conspicuously write down the driver's name and number and report him to the tourist police (tel. 171) if he has the nerve to call your bluff. One of the best countertactics is to simply open the door slightly; he won't want to risk damaging it. (Two passengers can each open a door.)

Our final advice: Don't sweat the small change. So the driver is charging you 12€ for a ride you have been told should be about 10€; are you prepared to go to court for 2€? Any difference above 5€ probably should be questioned -- but it may have to do with traffic delays when the meter ticks at the rate of 9.60€ per hour. Most cabbies are honest -- just be aware of the possibilities. And be sure to reward good service with a tip.

By Boat

Ferries are the most common, cheapest, and generally most "authentic" way to visit the islands, though the slow roll of a ferry can be stomach-churning. A wide variety of vessels sail Greek waters -- some huge, sleek, and new, with TV lounges, discos, and good restaurants; some old and ill kept, but pleasant enough if you stay on deck.

Ferry service (often accommodating vehicles) is available between Athens (Piraeus) and several other Greek ports. There's regular service from Piraeus to Aegina and to Poros in the Saronic Gulf; most of the Cyclades; Chania and Iraklion on Crete; Hios; Kos; Lesvos; Rhodes; and Samos. For the Cyclades, crossing is shorter and less expensive from Rafina, an hour east of Athens. From Patras, there's daily service to Corfu, Ithaka, and Kefalonia. The Sporades have service from Ayios Konstandinos, Kimi, and Volos (and then among the several islands). There's also service between many of the islands, even between Crete and Rhodes, as well as car-crossing to and from Turkey between Hios and Çesme; Lesvos and Dikeli; and Samos and Kusadasi.

There is also frequent ferry service (often also for cars) between several Italian ports (Ancona, Bari, Brindisi, Venice) and Patras (with stops at several major islands en route) But if you intend to continue on with your vehicle into Turkey or Italy or plan to enter Greece from Turkey, or Italy, you should inquire long before setting off for either country, and make sure that you have all the necessary paperwork.)

So-called "Flying Catamarans" and hydrofoils dubbed "Flying Dolphins" also serve many of the major islands. Undoubtedly faster, they cost almost twice as much as regular ferries, and their schedules are often interrupted by weather conditions. (Never rely on a tight connection between a hydrofoil and, say, an airplane flight.) Ferries, too, often don't hold exactly to their schedules, but they can be fun if you enjoy opportunities to meet people. Drinks and snacks are almost always sold, but the prices and selection are not that good, so you may want to bring along your own.

The map of Greece offered by the Greek National Tourism Organization (EOT), which indicates the common boat routes, is useful in planning your sea travels. Once you've learned what is possible, you can turn your attention to what is available. Remember that the summer schedule is the fullest, spring and fall bring reduced service, and winter schedules are skeletal.

There are dozens of shipping companies, each with its own schedule -- which, by the way, are regulated by the government. Your travel agent might have a copy of the monthly schedule Greek Travel Pages, or you can search online at www.gtp.gr or www.ferries.gr. When in Greece, it's best to go straight to an official information office, a travel agency, or the port authority as soon as you arrive at the place that you intend to leave via ferry.

Photos can give you some idea of the ships, but remember that any photo displayed was probably taken when the ship was new, and it is unlikely that anyone will be able (or willing) to tell you its actual age. The bigger ferries offer greater stability during rough weather. Except in summer, you can usually depend on getting aboard a ferry by showing up about an hour before scheduled departure -- interisland boats sometimes depart before their scheduled times -- and purchasing a ticket from a dockside agent or aboard the ship itself, though this is often more expensive.

Your best bet is to buy a ticket from an agent ahead of time. In Athens, we recommend Galaxy Travel, 35 Voulis, near Syntagma Square (tel. 210/322-2091; www.galaxytravel.gr); and Alkyon Travel, 97 Akademias, near Kanigos Square (tel. 210/383-2545). During the high season, both agencies keep long hours Monday through Saturday.

Note: Different travel agencies sell tickets to different lines -- this is usually the policy of the line itself -- and one agent might not know or bother to find out what else is offered. However, if you press reputable agencies, they will at least tell you the options. The port authority is the most reliable source of information, and the shipping company itself or its agents usually offer better prices and may have tickets when other agents have exhausted their allotment. It often pays to compare vessels and prices.

First class usually means roomy air-conditioned cabins and its own lounge; on some routes it costs almost as much as flying. However, on longer overnight hauls, you're on a comfortable floating hotel and thus save the cost of lodging. Second class means smaller cabins (which you will probably have to share with strangers) and its own lounge. The tourist-class fare entitles you to a seat on the deck or in a lounge. (Tourists usually head for the deck, while Greeks stay inside and watch TV.) Hold onto your ticket; crews conduct ticket-control sweeps.

Note: Those taking a ferry to Turkey from one of the Dodecanese islands must submit passport (or E.U. citizens, an ID) and payment to an agent the day before departure.

To give you some sense of the fares, here are examples for standard accommodations from Piraeus at press time (compare with airfares during this same time): to Crete (Iraklion), 80€-110€; Kos, 60€; Mitilini (Lesvos), 68€; Mykonos, 60€; Rhodes, 100€; Santorini, 60€. And don't be surprised if small taxes get added at the very end.

Early & Late-Season Ferries -- In the early and late weeks of the tourist season -- from April to early May, and September to November -- boat service can be unpredictable. Boat schedules, at the best of times, are tentative -- but during this time, they are wish lists, little more. Our best advice is that you wait until you get to Greece, then go to a major travel agency and ask for help.

By Hydrofoil

Hydrofoils (often referred to as Flying Dolphins, or by Greeks as to flying) are faster than ferries and their stops are much shorter. They have comfortable airline-style seats and are less likely to cause seasickness (but they are noisy) but at least smoking is prohibited. Although they cost somewhat more than ferries, are frequently fully booked in summer, can be quite bumpy during rough weather, and give little or no view of the passing scenery, they're the best choice if your time is limited. Everyone should ride one of these sleek little crafts at least once.

There is regular hydrofoil service to many of the major islands; new routes and new schedules appear often. Longer trips over open sea, such as between Santorini and Iraklion, Crete, may make them well worth the extra expense. (A one-way fare from Heraklion to Santorini in high season, for instance, is 40€-50€.) The forward compartment offers better views but is also bumpy.

The Flying Dolphins are operated by Hellenic Seaways, 6 Astiggos, Karaiskaki Square, 18531 Piraeus (tel. 210/419-9000; www.hellenicseaways.gr). The service from Zea Marina in Piraeus to the Saronic Gulf islands and throughout the Sporades is recommended for its speed and regularity. There is also service from Rafina, on the east coast of Attika, to several of the Cyclades islands.

By Sailboat & Yacht

Many more tourists are choosing to explore Greece by sailboat or yacht. There are numerous facilities and options for both. Experienced sailors interested in renting a boat in Greece can contact the Hellenic Professional and Bareboat Yacht Owners' Association, A8-A9 Zea Marina, 18536 Piraeus (tel. 210/452-6335). Less experienced sailors should consider signing up for one of the flotillas -- a group of 12 or more boats sailing as a group led by a boat crewed by experienced sailors; the largest of such organizations is Sunsail USA, 93 North Park Place Boulevard, Clearwater FL 33759 (tel. 888/350-3568; www.sunsail.com). However, travel agencies should be able to put you in touch with other such outfits.

At the other extreme, those who want to charter a yacht with anything from a basic skipper to a full crew should first contact the Hellenic Professional and Bareboat Yacht Owners' Association or Ghiolman Yachts, 8 Propileon, 11742 Athens (tel. 210/325-5000; www.ghiolman.com). If you feel competent enough to make your own arrangements, contact Valef Yachts Ltd. (tel. 800/223-3845 in the U.S.; www.valefyachts.com). In Greece, you can contact one of these organizations or try a private agency such as Alpha Yachting, 67 Leoforos Possidonos, 16674 Glyfada (tel. 210/968-0486; www.alphayachting.com).

By Train

Greek trains are generally slow but are inexpensive and fairly pleasant. The Hellenic State Railway (OSE) also offers bus service from stations adjacent to major train terminals. (Bus service is faster, but second-class train fare is nearly 50% cheaper, and trains offer more comfortable and scenic rides.) If you are interested in special arrangements involving rail passes for Greece (sometimes in combination with Olympic Air flights within Greece), check out www.raileurope.com or call tel. 800/622-8600 in the U.S. or 800/361-7245 in Canada.

For information and tickets in Athens, visit the OSE office at 1-3 Karolou (tel. 210/522-4563), or at 6 Sina (tel. 210/362-4402), both near Omonia Square. From abroad, visit www.ose.gr.

Purchase your ticket and reserve a seat ahead of time, as a 50% surcharge is added to tickets purchased on the train, and some lines are packed, especially in summer. A first-class ticket may be worth the extra cost, as seats are more comfortable and less crowded. There is sleeper service on the Athens-Thessaloniki run. Though the costly sleepers are a good value, you must be prepared to share a compartment with three to five others. Express service (6 hr.) runs twice a day, at 7am and 1pm.

Trains to northern Greece (Alexandropolis, Florina, Kalambaka, Lamia, Larissa, Thessaloniki, Volos, and other towns) leave from the Larissa station (Stathmos Larissis). Trains to the Peloponnese (Argos, Corinth, Patras) leave from the Peloponnese station (Stathmos Peloponnisou). Take trolley no. 1 or 5 from Syntagma Square to either station.

The Peloponnese circuit from Corinth to Patras, Pirgos (near Olympia), Tripolis, and Argos is one way to experience this scenic region, though the Athens-Patras stretch is often crowded. The spectacular spur between Diakofto and Kalavrita is particularly recommended for train enthusiasts.

By Bus

Public buses are inexpensive but often overcrowded. Local bus lines vary from place to place, but on most islands the bus stop is in a central location with a posted schedule. Destinations are usually displayed on the front of the bus, but you might have to ask. The conductor will collect your fare after departure.

Note that in Athens and other large cities, a bus ticket must be purchased before and validated after boarding. Kiosks usually offer bus tickets as well as schedules. The Athens metro ticket's cost is based on the destination, but usually costs about .70€

Note: Save your ticket in case an "inspector" comes aboard. If you don't have a ticket, the fine can be at least 30 times the price of the ticket!

Greece has an extensive long-distance bus service (KTEL), an association of regional operators with green-and-yellow buses that leave from convenient central stations. For information about the long-distance-bus offices, contact the KTEL office in Athens (tel. 210/512-4910).

In Athens, most buses heading to destinations within Attica leave from the Mavromate terminal, north of the National Archaeological Museum. Most buses to Central Greece leave from 260 Liossion, 5km (3 miles) north of Omonia Square (take local bus no. 024 from Leoforos Amalias in front of the entrance to the National Garden and tell the driver your destination). Most buses to the Peloponnese, and to western and northern Greece leave from the long-distance bus terminal at 100 Kifissou, 4km (2 1/2 miles) northeast of Omonia Square. To get to the long-distance bus terminal, take local bus no. 051 from the stop located 2 blocks west of Omonia, near the big church of Ayios Konstandinos, at Zinonos and Menandrou.

Express buses between major cities, usually air-conditioned, can be booked through travel agencies. Make sure that your destination is understood -- you wouldn't be the first to see a bit more of Greece than bargained for -- and determine the bus's schedule and comforts before purchasing your ticket. Many buses are not air-conditioned, take torturous routes, and make frequent stops. (NO SMOKING signs are generally disregarded by drivers and conductors, as well as by many older male passengers.)

Organized and guided bus tours are widely available. Some of them will pick you up at your hotel; ask the hotel staff or any travel agent in Athens. We especially recommend CHAT Tours, the oldest and probably most experienced provider of a wide selection of bus tours led by highly articulate guides. Almost any travel agent can book a CHAT tour, but if you want to deal with the company directly, contact them through their website, www.chatours.gr; in Athens, the CHAT office is at 9 Xenofontos, 10557 Athens (tel. 210/323-0827). Then there is the longtime favorite, American Express, with offices all over North America and Europe; the Athens office (tel. 210/325-4690) is located at 31 Panepistimiou, right on the corner of Syntagma Square.

Note: Readers have complained that some bus groups are so large they feel removed from the leader; inquire about group size if this concerns you.

Fast Facts

Area Codes -- All phone numbers in Greece are 10 digits long. Area codes range from three digits in Athens (210) to as many as five digits in less populated locales; the phone numbers themselves range from five digits to eight but all must add up to a total of ten including the area code. All numbers provided in the text start with the proper area code.

Business Hours -- Greek business and office hours take some getting used to, especially in the afternoon, when most English-speaking people are accustomed to getting things done in high gear. Compounding the problem is that it is nearly impossible to pin down the precise hours of opening. We can start by saying that almost all stores and services are closed on Sunday -- except, of course, tourist-oriented shops and services. Supermarkets, department stores and chain stores are usually open 9am to 9pm, Monday through Saturday. On Monday, Wednesday, and Saturday, smaller retail shops' hours are usually 9am to 3pm; Tuesday, Thursday, and Friday, it's 9am to 2pm and 5 to 7pm. The afternoon siesta is generally observed from 3 to 5pm, though many tourist-oriented businesses have a minimal crew on duty during naptime, and they may keep extended hours, often from 8am to 10pm. (In fact, in tourist centers, shops may be open at all kinds of hours.) Most government offices are open Monday through Friday only, from 8am to 3pm. Call ahead to check the hours of businesses you must deal with, and try not to disturb Greek friends during siesta hours. Final advice: Anything you really need to accomplish in a government office, business, or store should be done on weekdays between about 9am and 1pm.

Banks are open to the public Monday through Thursday from 8am to 2:30pm, Friday from 8am to 2pm. Banks at a few locations may be open for some services such as foreign currency exchange into the evening and on Saturday. All banks are closed on the long list of Greek holidays.

Doctors -- Any foreign embassy or consulate can provide a list of area doctors who speak English. If in a town without these offices, ask your hotel management to recommend a local doctor -- even his or her own.

Drinking Laws -- The minimum age for being served alcohol in public is 18. Wine and beer are generally available in eating places, but not in all coffeehouses or dessert cafes. Alcoholic beverages are sold in food stores as well as liquor stores. Although a certain amount of high spirits is appreciated, Greeks do not appreciate public drunkenness. The resort centers where mobs of young foreigners party every night are tolerated as necessary for the tourist trade, but such behavior wins no respect for foreigners. Do not carry open containers of alcohol in your car and don't even think about driving while intoxicated.

Electricity -- Electric current in Greece is 220 volts AC, alternating at 50 cycles. (Some larger hotels have 110-volt low-wattage outlets for electric shavers, but they aren't good for hair dryers and most other appliances.) Electrical outlets require Continental-type plugs with two round prongs. U.S. travelers will most likely need an adapter plug and a transformer/converter. Laptop computer users will want to check their requirements; a transformer may be necessary, and surge protectors are recommended. But increasingly various appliances -- including laptops and hair dryers -- allow for a simple switch to the 220 volts.

Embassies & Consulates -- In Athens: Australia, Thon Building, Corner Kifias and Alexandras avenues (tel. 210/870-4000); Canada, 4 Ioannou Yenadiou (tel. 210/727-3400); Ireland, 7 Leoforos Vasileus (tel. 210/723-2771); New Zealand, 268 Leoforos Kifissias, Halandri (tel. 210/6874-700); United Kingdom, 1 Ploutarchou (tel. 210/727-2660); United States, 91 Leoforos Vas. Sofias (tel. 210/721-2951).

Emergencies -- If there is no tourist police officer available (tel. 171), contact the local police, tel. 100. For fire, call tel. 199. For medical emergencies and/or first aid and/or an ambulance, call tel. 166. For hospitals, call tel. 106. For automobile emergencies, put out a triangular danger sign and call tel. 10400. Embassies, consulates, and many hotels can recommend an English-speaking doctor.

Insurance -- Given the sometimes unstable conditions in Greece in recent years, some might consider purchasing travel insurance. But it is vital to understand just what you are paying for -- that is, exactly what kind of incident or situation would allow you to cancel and collect. Your own last-minute fears about strikes in Greece would not qualify, nor would a canceled flight within Greece.

Language -- Language is usually not a problem for English speakers in Greece, as so many Greeks have studied it and find it necessary to use in their work worlds -- most particularly, in the tourist realm that visitors encounter. Many Greeks have also lived abroad where English is the primary language. Young people learn it in school, from Anglo-American-dominated pop culture, and in special classes meant to prepare them for the contemporary world of business. Several television programs are broadcast in their original languages, and American prime-time soaps are very popular, nearly inescapable. Even advertisements have an increasingly high English content. Don't let all this keep you from trying to pick up at least a few words of Greek; your effort will be rewarded by your hosts, who realize how difficult their language is for foreigners and will patiently help you improve your pronunciation and usage.

There are several books and audio courses on learning Greek, including Berlitz's Greek for Travelers, Passport's Conversational Greek in 7 Days, and Teach Yourself Greek Complete Course (book and CD pack). In recent years, Rosetta Stone has been heavily promoting its courses as the best way to learn a foreign language: based on my own experience, this is not the best way for those who simply want to learn some basic and functional Greek for traveling there. It is, rather, for those who intend to learn the language for long-term usage.

Legal Aid -- If you need legal assistance, contact your own or another English-speaking embassy or consulate. If these institutions cannot themselves be of help, they can direct you to local lawyers who speak English and are willing to help.

Mail -- The mail service of Greece is reliable -- but slow. (Postcards usually arrive after you have returned.) You can receive mail addressed to you c/o Poste Restante, General Post Office, City (or Town), Island (or Province), Greece. You will need your passport to collect this mail. Many hotels will accept, hold, and even forward mail for you; ask first. American Express clients can receive mail at any Amex office in Athens, Corfu, Iraklion, Mykonos, Patras, Rhodes, Santorini, Skiathos, and Thessaloniki, for a nominal fee and with proper identification. For the fastest service, try FedEx or one of the other major private carriers; travel agencies can direct you to these.

Postage rates have been going up in Greece, as they are elsewhere. At press time, a postcard or a letter under 20 grams (about .7 oz.) to foreign countries costs .75€; 20 to 50 grams (up to 1.75 oz.), 1.30€; 50 to 100 grams (3.5 oz.), 1.75€. Rates for packages depend on size as well as weight, but are reasonable. Note: Do not wrap or seal any package -- you must be prepared to show the contents to a postal clerk. If you are concerned about some particular item, you might consider using one of the well-known international commercial delivery services. Your hotel or any travel agency can direct you to the nearest local office.

Newspapers & Magazines -- All cities, large towns, and major tourist centers have at least one shop or kiosk that carries a selection of foreign-language publications; most of these are flown or shipped in on the very day of publication. English-language readers have a wide selection, including most of the British papers (Daily Telegraph, Financial Times, Guardian, Independent, Times), the International Herald Tribune (with its English-language insert of the well-known Athens newspaper, Kathimerini), and USA Today. Kathimerini, by the way, has an online English edition that is quite adequate for keeping up with Greek news (www.ekathimerini.com).

Police -- To report a crime or medical emergency, or for information or other assistance, first contact the tourist police (tel. 171), where an English-speaking officer is more likely to be found. If there is no tourist police officer available, contact the local police at tel. 100.Tourists who report petty thievery to the local police will probably feel that they are not being taken all that seriously, but it is more likely that the Greek police have realized there is little they can do without solid identification of the culprits. As for the other side of the coin -- police being exceptionally hard on foreigners, say, when enforcing traffic violations -- although there is the rare reported incident, it does not seem to be widespread. Drugs, however, are a different story: The Greek authorities and laws are extremely tough when it comes to foreigners with drugs -- starting with marijuana. Do not attempt to bring any illicit drug into or out of Greece.

Smoking -- In recent years the Greeks have imposed no-smoking regulations on airplanes, on areas of ships, and -- as of July 1, 2009 -- all public locations (banks, post offices, and so on); also small restaurants, tavernas and cafes must declare whether they allow smoking or not; larger such establishments are supposed to set aside smoking areas. But Greeks continue to be among the most persistent smokers and, except on airplanes, many Greeks -- and some foreigners -- feel free to puff away at will. Hotels are only beginning to claim that they have set aside rooms or even floors for nonsmokers, so ask about them, if it matters to you. If you are really bothered by smoke while eating, about all you can do is position yourself as best as possible -- and then be prepared to leave if it gets really bad.

Taxes & Service Charges -- The Value Added Tax (VAT) has in response to Greece's economic crisis been greatly increased -- it now stands at 23% for many purchases and services, including restaurants and car rentals; food and medicine and certain other "vital goods" tend to have a VAT of 11% while books and newspapers have 5.5%. You may sometimes be given a printed receipt that shows these percentages but the point to realize is that the taxes have been included in the price quoted and charged. In addition to the VAT, hotel prices usually include a service charge of up to 12% and a "community tax," about 4% to 5%. (By the way, don't confuse any of these charges with many restaurants' "cover charge" that may be .50€-2€ per place setting.)

If you have purchased an item that costs 100€ or more and are a citizen of a non-European Union nation, you can get most of the VAT refunded (provided you export it within 90 days of purchase). It's easiest to shop at stores that display the sign tax-free for tourists. However, any store should be able to provide you with a Tax-Free Check Form, which you complete in the store. If you use your charge card, the receipt will list the VAT separately from the cost of the item. As you are leaving the country, present a copy of this form to the refund desk (usually at the Customs office). Be prepared to show both the goods and the receipt as proof of purchase. Also be prepared to wait a fair amount of time before you get the refund. (In fact, the process at the airport seems designed to discourage you from trying to obtain the refund.)

Time -- The European 24-hour clock is used to measure time, so on schedules you'll see noon as 1200, 3:30pm as 1530, and 11pm as 2300. In informal conversation, however, Greeks express time much as we do -- though noon may mean anywhere from noon to 3pm, afternoon is 3 to 7pm, and evening is 7pm to midnight.

Greece is 2 hours ahead of Greenwich Mean Time. In reference to North American time zones, it's 7 hours ahead of Eastern Standard Time, 8 hours ahead of Central Standard Time, 9 hours ahead of Mountain Standard Time, and 10 hours ahead of Pacific Standard Time. Note that Greece does observe daylight saving time, although it may not start and stop on the same days as in North America. For help with time translations, download our convenient Travel Tools app for your mobile device. Go to www.frommers.com/go/mobile and click on the Travel Tools icon.

Tipping -- Restaurant bills no longer include a service charge or tip and it is customary to leave 10% to 15%; also consider "rounding off" on larger bills; to the nearest 1€. Good taxi service merits a tip of 5% to 10%. (Greeks rarely tip taxi drivers, but tourists are expected to.) Hotel chambermaids should be left about 2€ per night per couple. Bellhops and doormen should be tipped 1€ to 5€, depending on the services they provide.

For help with tip calculations, currency conversions, and more, download our Travel Tools app for your mobile device. Go to www.frommers.com/go/mobile and click on the Travel Tools icon.

Toilets -- Most Greek establishments -- hotels, restaurants, museums, and so on -- now provide flush toilets, but especially in villages, you may still be asked to deposit toilet paper in a container beside the toilet. In cheaper and more remote restaurants, however, you may find that there is no water at the hand bowl or a shortage of toilet paper so you might consider keeping some tissues with you.

Public restrooms are generally available in any good-size Greek town, and though they are sometimes rather crude, they usually do work. (Old-fashioned stand-up/squat facilities are still found.) If there is an attendant you are expected to leave a small tip. In an emergency, you can ask to use the facilities of a restaurant or shop; however, near major attractions, the facilities are denied to all but customers, because traffic is too heavy. If you use any such facilities, respect its sponsor and give an attendant a tip.

Water -- The public drinking water in Greece is safe to drink, although it can be slightly brackish in some locales near the sea. For that reason, many people prefer the bottled water available at restaurants, hotels, cafes, food stores, and kiosks. The days when Greek restaurants automatically served glasses of cold fresh water are gone; you can ask for the tap or house water -- be sure to do so before the waiter opens bottled water. If you do order bottled water, you will have to choose between natural or carbonated (metalliko), and domestic or imported. Cafes, however, tend to provide a glass of natural water.

Tips for Black Travelers

Greece has an age-old tradition of welcoming peoples from around from the world and there is no expectation that "people of color" would be treated any differently than other foreigners. However, it should be said that people of African descent -- that is to say, native Africans, U.K.-Africans and African-Americans -- have not made Greece a particular "destination.". Likewise, Greeks have not set up any special network of hotels, resorts, or restaurants to cater to individuals of African descent -- or for that matter, any people of color. But I would like to believe that all people of color are treated like all other guests in Greece, and in my (albeit limited) encounters with African-Americans in Greece, I have always found this to be true. What people might experience, however, is being stared at by some individuals in communities not accustomed to seeing people of color.

As for making any special travel arrangements, again, it must be said that agencies that do specialize in servicing African-Americans or U.K.-Africans probably have little experience in making arrangements in Greece. One exception is the black-owned agency in Philadelphia Rodgers Travel (tel. 888/823-1775; www.rodgerstravel.com), which handles clients of all colors. So the best advice is to go to any travel agency that handles arrangements for Greece and expect to be treated like everyone else.

Tips for Families

If you have enough trouble getting your kids out of the house in the morning, dragging them thousands of miles away may seem an insurmountable challenge. But family travel can be immensely rewarding, giving you new ways of seeing the world through smaller pairs of eyes.

Set goals for your family for your travels in Greece. The whole family can head for the beaches. At the other extreme, however, think twice about taking younger kids along on a full-day exploration of museums and archaeological sites. Travel with infants and young children -- say, up to about age 5 -- can work; most children ages 6 to 16 become restless at historical sites. If you're lucky, your children may tune into history at some point in their teens.

There are some kid-friendly distractions in Greece: playgrounds all over the place, water parks here and there, and zoos. Greeks boys now play pickup basketball even in small towns -- if your kids go for that, it's a great way to be quickly accepted.

Most hotels allow children 5 and under a free bed or cot in your room, and reduced prices for children 11 and under. Some museums have children's prices, but by and large Greece is not set up to offer reductions at every turn.

As for passport requirements for children, go to the State Department's website, www.travel.state.gov). If you are traveling with children other than your own, you must be sure you have full identification as well as notarized authorization from their parents.

Getting There

By Plane

The vast majority of travelers reach Greece by plane, and most arrive at the Athens airport -- officially Eleftherios Venizelos International Airport (ATH), sometimes referred to by its new location as "the Spata airport." Thessaloniki International Airport (Macedonia; SKG) in northeastern Greece is an alternative for those who might like to make their way south but it has far fewer connecting flights to foreign cities.

Four airlines offer direct flights from North America to Athens: Continental, Delta, Olympic Air and USAir (Many airlines these days belong to an "alliance" or code-sharing group so you might be able to use or earn frequent-flyer miles with one of the other members.) All the other airlines make stops at some major European airport, where a change of planes is usually required. Once you're on the Continent, you'll find that nearly all the major European airlines fly to Greece. There are also countless airlines from countries all over the world that provide direct or indirect connections. Ryanair, the bargain airline based in Dublin, makes some flights to Greece, as does Belleair, with its home base in Tirana, Albania.

By Car

Many Europeans drive down into Greece -- and some North Americans may wish to bring rented cars in. (Make sure a car rented in another country is allowed to be taken to Greece.) Drivers often come from Italy via ferry, usually disembarking at Patras; the drive to Athens is about 210km (130 miles). Others enter from the Former Yugoslavian Republic of Macedonia, or FYROM. (The road from Albania, although passable, doesn't attract many tourists.) There are no particular problems or delays at the border crossings, providing all your papers are in order.

If you come through Skopje, FYROM, the road via Titov Veles to the southeast leads to the border, where it picks up an expressway down to the edge of Thessaloniki (242km/150 miles). Over to the west, there is a decent-enough road via Vitola, FYROM, that leads to Florina, Greece (290km/180 miles); that road then continues east to Thessaloniki (another 161km/100 miles) or south to Kosani (another 89km/55 miles). A long day's drive!

Driving Your Own Vehicle -- To bring your own vehicle into Greece, valid registration papers, an international third-party insurance certificate, and a driver's license are required. Make sure you have adequate insurance, because many Greek drivers do not. Valid E.U. drivers' licenses are accepted in Greece. as are most United States and Canadian licenses, but technically you should have an International Driver's License and you are advised to get one so as to forestall any problems at the border. (National automobile associations issue them.) A free entry card allows you to keep your car in the country up to 4 months, after which another 8 months can be arranged without you paying import duty. Check with your own car insurance company to make sure you are fully covered.

In any case, arm yourself with a good up-to-date map such as the ones published by Baedeker, Hallwag, Michelin, or Freytag & Berndt.

By Train

There is train service to Greece from virtually all major points in Europe, although the trains tend to be slow and uncomfortable in the summer. A Eurailpass is valid for connections all the way to Athens or Istanbul and includes the ferry service from Italy. Endless types of passes are now offered -- long stays, short stays, and combinations with airlines, among others. Note that North Americans must purchase their Eurailpasses before arriving in Europe. For information, see www.raileurope.com.

By Ship

Probably most people traveling to Greece from foreign ports these days are on cruise ships, but there are still many who come on other ships -- mainly from Italy. There is also occasional service from Cyprus, Egypt, Israel, and Turkey. Brindisi, Italy, to Patras is the most common ferry crossing, about a 10-hour voyage, with as many as seven departures a day in summer. There is also regular service, twice a day in summer, from Ancona and Bari, once daily from Otranto, and two or three times a week from Trieste or Venice. Most ferries stop at Corfu or Igoumenitsa, often at both; in summer, an occasional ship will also stop at Kefalonia.

If you want to learn more about the ferry services between Greece and foreign ports, the best website is Paleologos Agency's www.ferries.gr. Britons might try the London-based agency Viamare Travel, Graphic House, 2 Sumatra Rd., London NW6 1PU (tel. 0870/410-6040; www.viamare.com). The Superfast Ferries Line, 157 Leoforos Alkyonidon, 16673 Athens (tel. 210/969-1100; www.superfast.com), offers service between Ancona and Patras (17 hr.), or between Ancona and Igoumenitsa (15 hr.); also between Bari and Patras (12 hr.) or between Bari and Igoumenitsa (8 hr.). Not all these so-called superfast ferries actually save that much time if you take into consideration boarding and debarking. In addition, their fares are almost twice as much as those of regular ferries.

On the regular ferries, one-way fares during high season from Brindisi to Patras at press time cost from about 75€ for a tourist-class deck chair to about 135€ per person to share an inside double cabin. Vehicles cost at least another 75€ to 150€ Note: The lines usually offer considerable discounts on round-trip/return tickets. Fares to Igoumenitsa are considerably cheaper, but are by no means a better value unless your destination is nearby. Because of the number of shipping lines involved and the variations in schedules, we're not able to provide more concrete details. Consult a travel agent about the possibilities, book well ahead of time in summer, and reconfirm with the shipping line on the day of departure.

Tips for Gay and Lesbian Travelers

Greece -- or at least parts of it -- has a long tradition of being tolerant of gay men, and in recent years these locales have extended this tolerance to lesbians. Bars and such places especially open to and frequented by LBGT travelers are identified in the relevant locales. But although Greeks in Athens, Piraeus, and perhaps a few other major cities may not care one way or the other, Greeks in small towns and villages -- indeed, most Greeks -- do not appreciate flagrant displays of dress or behavior. Among the best-known hangouts for gays and lesbians are Mykonos, Mitilini (Lesvos), and Chania, Crete, but gays and lesbians travel all over Greece without any particular issues. The age of consent for sexual relations with homosexuals is 17, and this can be strictly enforced against foreigners.

Tips for Senior Travelers

Greece does not offer too many discounts for seniors. Some museums and archaeological sites offer discounts for those 60 and over, but the practice is unpredictable, and in almost all instances the discount is restricted to citizens of an E.U. nation.

Try mentioning the fact that you're a senior when you make your travel reservations. Many hotels continue to offer discounts for seniors.

Members of AARP, 601 E St. NW, Washington, DC 20049 (tel. 888/687-2277; www.aarp.org), get discounts on hotels, airfares, and car rentals. AARP offers members a wide range of benefits, including AARP The Magazine and a monthly newsletter. Anyone over 50 can join.

Many reliable agencies and organizations target the 50-plus market. Road Scholar (formerly Elderhostel; tel. 800/454-5768; www.roadscholar.org) arranges study programs for those ages 55 and over (and a spouse or companion of any age) in the U.S. and in more than 80 countries around the world. Most courses last 5 to 7 days in the U.S. (2-4 weeks abroad), and many include airfare, accommodations in university dormitories or modest inns, meals, and tuition. In Greece, groups typically settle in one area for a week or so, with excursions that focus on getting to know the history and culture. Canada-based ElderTreks (tel. 800/741-7956; www.eldertreks.com) offers small-group tours to off-the-beaten-path or adventure-travel locations, restricted to travelers 50 and older. Britons might prefer to deal with Saga Holidays (Saga Building, Folkestone, Kent CT20 1AZ; tel. 800/096-0084 in the U.S. and Canada, or 0808/234-1714 in the U.K.; www.saga.co.uk), which offers all-inclusive tours in Greece for those ages 50 and older.

Tips for Travelers with Disabilities

Increasingly, people with physical disabilities who travel abroad will find more options and resources than ever before. However, few concessions exist for travelers with disabilities in Greece. Steep steps, uneven pavements, almost no cuts at curbstones, few ramps, narrow walks, slick stone, and traffic congestion can cause problems. Archaeological sites are, by their very nature, difficult to navigate, and crowded public transportation can be all but impossible.

The new airport and the Athens Metro system are wheelchair accessible, and thanks to the 2004 Olympics, an elevator now takes individuals in wheelchairs to the top of the Acropolis; but even this requires that the wheelchair be pushed up a lengthy path. More modern and private facilities are only now beginning to provide ramps, but little else has been done. Increasingly, hotels are setting aside rooms that they advertise as "disability-friendly" or "handicap accessible," but that may mean nothing more than handrails in the bathtub. Nonetheless, foreigners in wheelchairs -- accompanied by companions -- are becoming a more common sight in Greece. Several travel agencies now offer customized tours and itineraries for travelers with disabilities; one is the British-based Makin' Tracks: www.makintracks.eu. A number of agencies offer customized tours and itineraries for travelers with disabilities. Among them are Flying Wheels Travel (tel. 877/451-5006; www.flyingwheelstravel.com) and Accessible Journeys (tel. 800/846-4537; www.disabilitytravel.com).

There is now one particular establishment in Greece that should have a special appeal to those with physical disabilities: the Eria Resort Hotel on Crete, designed, built, and dedicated to provide as convenient, comfortable and active a stay in Greece as possible.

Organizations that offer a vast range of resources and assistance to travelers with disabilities include MossRehab (tel. 800/CALL-MOSS [225-5667]; www.mossresourcenet.org); the American Foundation for the Blind (AFB; tel. 800/232-5463; www.afb.org); and SATH (Society for Accessible Travel & Hospitality; tel. 212/447-7284; www.sath.org). AirAmbulanceCard.com is partnered with SATH and allows you to preselect hospitals in case of an emergency.

British travelers should contact Holiday Care (tel. 0845-124-9971 in the U.K. only; www.holidaycare.org.uk) to access a wide range of travel information and resources for the elderly and people with disabilities.

Special-Interest Vacations

You can find a wide variety of tours, special-interest trips, classes, and workshops available when you travel to Greece, focusing on everything from antiquities to wine tasting. In addition, there are a number of organized possibilities for volunteerism, whether on excavations or on farms. Here are some suggestions.

Educational Trips & Language Classes

Want to arrive in Greece knowing how to say more than "Sorry, I don't speak Greek"? Check out the Dartmouth College Rassias Center (www.rassias.dartmouth.edu) language program in modern Greek. This very popular 10-day total-immersion session should have you arriving ready to amaze and delight Greeks with your command of their glorious and tricky language. If you can't go to the Rassias Center but find yourself staying on in Greece and wanting to learn the language, the Athens Center, 48 Archimidou, Mets., 11636 Athens (www.athenscenter.gr), has been around since 1969 and offers modern Greek classes year-round.

Many colleges and universities offer tours of Greece, led by scholars at the institution sponsoring the tour. Most of these tours are serious, but very comfortable -- and not cheap. Some of these tours are open only to graduates of the institution, others welcome all comers, so you'll probably want to check out a few university and college websites to find what interests you.

Archaeological Tours, 271 Madison Ave., Suite 904, New York, NY 10016 (tel. 866/740-5130; www.archaeologicaltrs.com), offers tours led by expert guides; typical tours might be to classical Greek sites or to Cyprus, Crete, and Santorini. FreeGate Tourism, 585 Stewart Ave., Suite 310, Garden City, NY 11530 (tel. 888/373-3428; www.freegatetours.com), also specializes in guided trips in Greece. The Aegean Center for the Fine Arts (www.aegeancenter.org), based on the island of Paros, offers courses in painting, photography, music, creative writing, and modern Greek. Most of the students are college-age Americans; the instructors are Greek, American, and international.

The American-run Island Center for the Arts conducts classes in painting, photography, and Greek culture on the island of Skopelos between June and September (tel. 617/623-6538; www.islandcenter.org). As it is affiliated with the Massachusetts College of Art, some educational institutions grant credits for its courses.

The popular Road Scholar program (formerly Elderhostel; tel. 800/454-5768; www.roadscholar.org) is a learning experience for adults (with some intergenerational programs) that offers a couple dozen trips to Greece and the surrounding area each year, ranging from cruises on smaller ships that explore the history and culture of the Aegean Islands, to overland road trips where participants explore the art, architecture, and archeology of the region.

Adventure & Wellness Trips

Trekking Hellas (www.trekking.gr) offers white-water rafting excursions in the Peloponnese and northern Greece. Although plenty of beginners (including many macho Greek guys) go on these trips, most foreign participants have had some rafting experience. Trekking Hellas also organizes hiking tours.

The Ashtanga Yoga Retreat (www.yogapractice.net/mani) in the remote, austere, and beautiful Mani peninsula, offers 1-week retreats in the summer.

Eumelia (www.eumelia.com), in the Peloponnese south of Sparta, has five rental houses, a staff of three, and never more than 25 guests on its organic farm outside the hamlet of Gouves. Eumelia (the name means "melody") focuses on agrotourism and the manufacture and sale of organic produce (olive oil, herbs, and so on). There are frequent workshops and seminars (in 2011 workshops included a "raw vegan cooking seminar" and a tango workshop); Eumelia aims for "100% self-sufficiency" and all its buildings are built with great attention to environmental issues -- and have TV and Internet access. Prices are reasonable: 120€ per night for two people sharing a two-bedroom cottage in 2011.

Limnisa (Creative Holidays by the Sea; www.limnisa.com) offers silent retreats, writing retreats, and workshops by the sea near Methana, in the east Peloponnese, near the island of Poros.

Skyros Center (www.skyros.com) offers yoga and holistic holidays (as well as writing holidays and singles holidays) on the island of Skyros. This British operation has a year-round office on the Isle of Wight.

Food & Wine Trips

If you're heading for Santorini and want to learn about Greek cuisine, the island's best restaurant, Selene (www.selene.gr), offers cooking classes with the most varied and fresh local ingredients each summer. Diane Kochilas (www.dianekochilas.com), a Greek-American expert on Greek foods, offers a variety of activities, including cooking classes in Athens and on Ikaria, and culinary tours in Athens or throughout Greece. Aglaia Kremezi (www.aglaiakremezi.com), an American-educated Greek authority on Greek food, and her husband, Costas Moraitis, run a cooking school on the island of Kea. And Nikki Rose (www.cookingincrete.com), a Cretan-American professional chef, operates seminars on Crete that combine some travel with cooking lessons and investigations of Crete's diet.

Want to mix seeing where the Olympic games began with some cooking, creative writing, or painting? Check out the website of the Hotel Pelops (www.hotelpelops.gr), where co-owner Susanna Spiliopoulou offers 3- and 4-day workshops a short walk from the pine groves of ancient Olympia.

Volunteer & Working Opportunities

Many Greek Orthodox churches in the United States and in Great Britain can offer suggestions for volunteer work in Greece, although many opportunities assume a fluency in Greek. GoGreeceabout.com lists many volunteer possibilities in Greece, including chances to help sea turtles on Zakynthos or donkeys on Corfu. www.nmp-zak.org, the website of the National Marine Park of Zakynthos, also accepts volunteers. Other possibilities include The World Wide Opportunities on Organic Farms organization (www.wwoof.org), which offers listings for volunteers in several locations in Greece, including Mount Pelion.

On Chios, Masticulture and Ecotourism Adtivities (www.masticulture.com) has a range of tours and activities letting visitors participate in the mastic and wine harvests and learn about local pottery, cooking, and customs.

Visitor Information

The Greek National Tourism Organization (GNTO or EOT in Greece -- and increasingly referred to as the Hellenic Tourism Organization) has offices throughout the world that can provide you with information concerning all aspects of travel to and in Greece. Look for them at www.gnto.gr or contact one of the following GNTO offices:

United States -- Olympic Tower, 645 Fifth Ave., 5th Floor, New York, NY 10022 (tel. 212/421-5777; fax 212/826-6940).

Australia & New Zealand -- 37-49 Pitt St., Sydney, NSW 2000 (tel. 29/241-1663; fax 29/241-2499).

Canada -- 1500 Donmills Rd., Toronto, ON M3B 3K4 (tel. 416/968-2220; fax 416/968-6533).

United Kingdom & Ireland -- 4 Conduit St., London W1S 2DJ (tel. 207/495-9300; fax 207/495-4057).

Among the sites we've used for broad-based searches on Greece are:

• www.mfa.gr (official Greek matters)
• www.gtp.gr (ship and air travel in Greece)
• www.phantis.com (current news about Greece)
• www.culture.gr (official site for Greek's cultural attractions)
• www.perseus.tufts.edu (classical Greek texts)

Strike While the Museum Is Open! -- Remember that strikes can close museums and archaeological sites without warning. Decide what you want most to see, and go there as soon as possible after you arrive. If possible, phone the site or museum you are about to visit just before you head there; much information given out by hotels, websites, and even Greek National Tourism offices is wrong.

Staying Connected

Telephones

Until the late 1990s in Greece, most foreigners went to the offices of the Telecommunications Organization of Greece (OTE, pronounced oh-tay, or Organismos Tilepikinonion tis Ellados) to place most of their phone calls, especially overseas. But because phone cards are now so widespread throughout Greece, this is no longer necessary, once you get the hang of using them. You must first purchase a phone card at an OTE office or at most kiosks. (If you expect to make any phone calls while in Greece, buy one at the airport's OTE office upon arrival.) The cards come in various denominations, from 3€ to 25€. The more costly the card, the cheaper the units. The cost of a call with a phone card varies greatly depending on local, domestic, and international rates. A local call of up to 3 minutes to a fixed phone costs about .10€, which is three units from a phone card; for each minute beyond that, it costs another .06€, or two units off the card (so that a 10-min. local call costs 17 units, or .52€). All calls, even to the house next door, cost Greeks something, so if you use someone's telephone even for a local call, offer to pay the charges.

In larger cities and larger towns, kiosks have telephones from which you can make local calls for .10€ for 3 minutes. (In remote areas, you can make long-distance calls from these phones.) A few of the older public pay phones that required coins are still around, but it's better to buy a phone card. If you must use an older pay phone, deposit the required coin and listen for a dial tone, an irregular beep. A regular beep indicates that the line is busy.

Note: All phone numbers in Greece are 10 digits long, including the area code; the area code may range from 3 to 5 digits, and the number itself may range from 5 to 8 digits, but the total will always be 10. All (except for cellphones) also precede the city/area code with a 2 and end that with a 0. For example, since the Athens city code was originally 1, it is now 210, followed by a seven-digit number, but most other numbers in Greece are six digits with a four-digit area code. In all cases, even if you are calling someone in the same building, you must dial all 10 digits.

Calling a cellphone (mobile) in Greece requires substituting a 6 for the 2 that precedes the area code.

Long-distance calls, both domestic and international, can be quite expensive in Greece, especially at hotels, which may add a surcharge of up to 100%, unless you have a telephone credit card from a major long-distance provider such as AT&T, MCI, or Sprint. But if possible, avoid making long-distance calls from a hotel.

If you prefer to make your call from an OTE office, these are centrally located in all decent-sized cities. At OTE offices, a clerk will assign you a booth with a metered phone. You can pay with a phone card, international credit card, or cash. Collect calls take much longer.

To Call Greece from the United States, Canada, U.K., Australia, or New Zealand:

1. Dial the international access code: 011 from the U.S or Canada.; 00 from the U.K., Ireland, or New Zealand; or 0011 from Australia

2. Dial the country code: 30

3. Dial the city code (three to five digits) and then the number. Note: All numbers in Greece must have 10 digits, including the city code.

To Make International Calls from Within Greece -- The easiest and cheapest way is to call your long-distance service provider before leaving home to determine the access number that you must dial in Greece. The principal access codes in Greece are: AT&T, tel. 00800-1311; MCI, tel. 00800-1211; and Sprint, tel. 00800-1411.

If you use the Greek phone system to make a direct call abroad -- whether using an OTE office, a phone that takes cards, or a phone that takes coins -- dial the country code plus the area code (omitting the initial zero, if any), then dial the number. Some country codes are: Australia, 0061; Canada, 001; Ireland, 00353; New Zealand, 0064; United Kingdom, 0044; and United States, 001. Thus, if you wanted to call the British Embassy in Washington, D.C., you would dial 001-202-588-7800.

Note that if you are going to put all the charges on your phone card (that is, not on your long-distance provider), you will be charged at a high rate per minute (at least 3€ to North America), so you should not make a call unless your phone card's remaining value can cover it.

For Operator Assistance: If you need operator assistance in making a call, dial tel. 139 if you're trying to make an international call and tel. 169 if you want to call a number in Greece.

Toll-Free Numbers: Numbers beginning with 080 within Greece are toll-free, but calling a 800 number in the States from Greece is not toll-free. In fact, it costs the same as an overseas call.

Rechargeable Phone Cards: One of the newest, easiest, and cheapest ways to make calls while abroad is to sign on for a phone card that can be used in most countries and can be recharged (that is, money and therefore minutes added from your charge card account). To learn more about this card and its various other feature, see www.ekit.com.

Mobile Phones

The three letters that define much of the world's wireless capabilities are GSM (Global System for Mobile Communications), a big, seamless network that makes for easy cross-border cellphone use throughout Europe -- including Greece -- and indeed most countries around the world. In the U.S., T-Mobile, and AT&T Wireless, use this quasi-universal system; in Canada, Microcell and some Rogers customers are GSM, and most Australians use GSM.

GSM phones function with a removable plastic SIM card, encoded with your phone number and account information. But some phones are "locked" and must be unlocked; go to your phone's website and get information as to how to unlock your phone. If your cellphone is on a GSM system, and you have a world-capable multiband phone such as many Sony Ericsson, Motorola, or Samsung models, you can make and receive calls around much of the globe. Just call your wireless operator and ask for "international roaming" to be activated on your account. Unfortunately, per-minute charges can be high -- usually $1 to $1.50 in Greece. But the reassuring point is that cellphone services are generally available wherever you go in Greece.

An alternative way if you intend to make many phone calls in Greece is to bring your unlocked cellphone to Greece and buy a SIM card in the national telephone office (OTE) center in major cities or a commercial phone store. These cards -- actually a tiny chip inserted into your phone -- cost about 20€ and include a Greek phone number and a number of prepaid minutes; when you have used up these minutes, you can purchase a phone card at a kiosk that gives you more minutes. But it must be said that any calls outside of Greece by this system are very expensive.

For many, renting a phone in Greece is a good idea. You can rent a phone from any number of places in Greece -- including kiosks at major airports, OTE offices, and cellphone stores. But if you expect to be abroad for more than a brief time, and/or to be visiting more than one country, buying a phone can make economic sense. Numerous companies now sell phones with a SIM card included and with a U.S. or U.K. phone number assigned to it -- so-called global roaming services that offer relatively cheap per minute rates for both outgoing and incoming calls: Typical would be 90¢ from Greece to the U.S. and 25¢ from the U.S. to Greece. (U.K. rates are much cheaper.) Google "global roaming SIM card" to compare various services and charges or look into www.cellularabroad.com.

You can buy a phone in Greece in either the national telephone office (OTE) in any decent-size city or a retail electronics store. If you take the cheapest package; you'll probably pay less than $100 for a phone and a starter calling card. Local calls may be as low as 10¢ per minute, and in many countries incoming calls are free.

Internet & Wi-Fi

Internet connection with or without Wi-Fi is now available virtually anywhere a visitor is apt to be. Some hotels do charge for either or both services (and this will be indicated at each appropriate listing). To find cybercafes in your destination you might start by checking www.cybercaptive.com and www.cybercafe.com. But frankly, these lists are by no means thorough or up-to-date when it comes to Greece. All decent-size cities now have Internet cafes in their centers; if you are having trouble finding one, ask a young person or a shop-owner.