If you don't want to dress up for lunch, head for Seaview Takeaway, at the foot of the ferry dock (tel. 242/333-2542). Here you can feast on all that good stuff: pig's feet, sheep-tongue souse, and, most definitely, cracked conch. Everything tastes better with peas 'n' rice. Daily specials range from $3 to $9. It's open Monday through Saturday from 8am to 5pm.

Another casual drop-in spot for both visitors and locals is Arthur's Bakery & Cafe, Dunmore Street (tel. 242/333-2285; www.myharbourisland.com/bakery.htm), owned by Robert Arthur, the screenwriter for M*A*S*H. Artists, writers, media people, and what Arthur calls "international lollygaggers" hang out here. There are only a few tables, and they fill up quickly with those catching up on local gossip. Arthur's Trinidadian wife, Anna, bakes the island's best Key lime tart and is also praised for her croissants and banana bread. At lunch, drop in for fresh salads and sandwiches. Many guests come here to use the Internet, too.

Ma Ruby's Conch Burger -- If you'd like to sample some real local fare, head to Ma Ruby's, on Colebrook Street (tel. 242/333-2161). Some dyed-in-the-wool locals claim you'll get the best down-home cooking in Harbour Island if Ma Ruby (the cook and owner) is in the kitchen herself. She's been stewing chicken, baking grouper, and serving hearty meals in a trellised courtyard for a long time, and she's amassed a lot of devoted fans. Her conch burger is certainly worthy of an award. The place is also known for its cheeseburgers, which the manager says were ranked as one of the world's 10 best by "Mr. Cheeseburger in Paradise" himself, Jimmy Buffett. Prices range from $6 to $15 for the a la carte menu; a four-course fixed-price Bahamian dinner costs $24 to $40. The restaurant is open daily from 9:30am to midnight.

Note: This information was accurate when it was published, but can change without notice. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.