Things To Do in Hokitika

To gain insight into the history of this little town, pick up the Hokitika Heritage Walk brochure at the visitor center or the West Coast Historical Museum.

The Hokitika Museum, Tancred and Hamilton streets (tel. 03/755-6898; www.hokitikamuseum.co.nz), features reconstructions and artifacts of the 19th-century "alluvial placer" gold-mining era on the West Coast. Wood and slab dwellings display household furnishings. A typical bar, horse-drawn vehicles, mining tools, and pictorial records of the harbor's maritime history are among the wealth of items you'll see. Gold panning is an all-weather attraction in the miner's hut. The museum is open daily from 9:30am to 5pm in summer with reduced winter hours. Admission is NZ$5 for adults, children under 15 are free.

If you're traveling with kids, the National Kiwi Centre, 64 Tancred St. (tel. 03/755-5251; www.thenationalkiwicentre.co.nz), is worth a visit. The stars here are the 63 rather repulsive, but nonetheless fascinating, giant eels. The eldest is over 80 years old, and some weigh up to 25 kilograms (55 lb.). Try to visit during their feeding (10am, noon, 3pm), and try a spot of hand-feeding. It also features Australasia's largest tropical aquarium, with an indoor lake, giant trout, birds, reptiles, and, of course, the kiwi. It is open daily from 9am to 5pm (9:30am-4:30pm in winter). Admission is NZ$19 for adults, NZ$11 for children ages 5 to 14, and NZ$48 for families.

Bright Lights: Spotting Glowworms for Free -- When people talk about the bright lights of Hokitika, they don't mean a dazzling display of neon and inner city activity. It's much more likely that they're referring to the largest outdoor gathering of glowworms in New Zealand. Head north, to the edge of the town, and there, right on the edge of the main road (St. Hwy. 6), is a charming, easily accessed dell that shines bright every evening. The glowworms thrive in the moist atmosphere of the wooded banks. Make sure it's properly dark before you visit, speak quietly, and don't turn on torches (flashlights), or these shy critters will vanish. It's free, quite magical, and well worth the effort of groping your way through darkness.

West Coast history is riddled with stories about pounamu, which is the Maori word for the dark green jade, or greenstone, that is found exclusively in the South Island and especially along the West Coast. Find out about its importance to the local Ngati Waewae people and to the Ngai Tahu tribe generally, at Te Waipounamu Maori Heritage Centre, 39 Weld St. (tel. 03/755-8304; www.maoriheritage.co.nz). They have excellent displays of local stone (no imports here!) and carved pieces and they'll give you a rundown of local Maori history and the different types of stone favored by Maori. Admission is free.

Take to the water on a Scenic Waterways Paddle Boat Cruise, Main Road South (tel. 03/755-7239 or 755-6166; www.paddleboatcruises.com). A dreamy tour down tranquil Mahinapua Creek is just the thing to do on a leisurely afternoon (Jan-Apr daily at 2pm). Keep a look out for the beautiful white herons that may be in residence. The 1 1/2-hour cruises cost NZ$30 for adults, NZ$15 for kids (ages 5-12). The morning cruises departs at 9am and the evening cruise (NZ$35 adults, NZ$20 children) departs at 7pm. Make reservations in advance at the visitor center.

In peak season, shopping takes on the nature and dimensions of a sport in Hokitika, as the human contents of buses spill out into the vicinity of Tancred Street. All of the following stores are open daily (usually 10am-5pm). At the Gold Room, 37 Tancred St. (tel. 03/755-8362; www.thegoldroom.co.nz), you'll see gold in every form - from raw nuggets and flakes to top-quality crafted jewelry. Hokitika Craft Gallery, 25 Tancred St. (tel. 03/755-7800; www.hokitikacraftgallery.co.nz), features the work of 19 of the West Coast's top artisans under one roof. Look out for contemporary works in fiber, wood, pottery, jade, leather, wool, glass, and bone. My pick is the furniture by top craftsman Marc Zuckerman. Hokitika Glass Studio, 28 Tancred St. (tel. 03/755-7775; www.hokitikaglass.co.nz), is home to more glass penguins than the average person could cope with; but beyond that, there are some stunning glassworks here. Bowls, platters, and gorgeous perfume bottles are my picks. House of Wood, 29 Tancred St. (tel. 03/755-6061), has the best range of handcrafted wooden items. Browse the creative boxes, lovely bowls, and wooden toys. You can also watch wood-turners at work in the studio. Mountain Jade, 43 Weld St. (tel. 03/755-8007; www.mountainjade.co.nz), generally has up to seven carvers at work, and a big selection of excellent-quality jewelry is for sale. Free educational tours are offered daily at 10:30am, 1pm, and 2:30pm. Westland Greenstone, 34 Tancred St. (tel. 03/755-8713), is a good place to see greenstone and paua jewelry being made. The showroom has a wide range of the finished products at factory prices.