Planning a trip to Italy

Entry Requirements

Passports

For an up-to-date country-by-country listing of passport requirements, go to the "Foreign Entry Requirement" Web page of the U.S. State Department at www.travel.state.gov.

All children traveling abroad must have their own passport. To prevent international child abduction, E.U. governments may require documentary evidence of relationship and permission for the child's travel from the parent or legal guardian not present. For up-to-date details on entry requirements for children, visit the U.S. State Department website: http://travel.state.gov/foreignentryreq.html.

Allow plenty of time before your trip to apply for a passport; processing normally takes 3 weeks but can take longer during busy periods (especially spring). And keep in mind that if you need a passport in a hurry, you'll pay a higher processing fee.

For Residents of Australia: You can pick up an application from your local post office or any branch of Passports Australia, but you must schedule an interview at the passport office to present your application materials. Call the Australian Passport Information Service at tel. 131-232, or visit the government website at www.passports.gov.au.

For Residents of Canada: Passport applications are available at travel agencies throughout Canada or from the central Passport Office, Department of Foreign Affairs and International Trade, Gatineau, QC K1A 0G3 (tel. 800/567-6868; www.ppt.gc.ca).

For Residents of Ireland: You can apply for a 10-year passport at the Passport Office, Setanta Centre, Molesworth Street, Dublin 2 (tel. 01/671-1633; www.irlgov.ie/iveagh). You can also apply at 1A South Mall, Cork (tel. 021/484-4700) or at most main post offices.

For Residents of New Zealand: You can pick up a passport application at any New Zealand Passports Office or download it from their website. Contact the Passports Office at tel. 0800/225-050 in New Zealand, or 04/474-8100, or log on to www.passports.govt.nz.

For Residents of the United Kingdom: To pick up an application for a standard 10-year passport (5-year passport for children under 16), visit your nearest passport office, major post office, or travel agency or contact the United Kingdom Passport Service at tel. 0870/521-0410 or search its website at www.ukpa.gov.uk.

For Residents of the United States: Whether you're applying in person or by mail, you can download passport applications from the U.S. State Department website at http://travel.state.gov. To find your regional passport office, either check the U.S. State Department website or call the National Passport Information Center toll-free number (tel. 877/487-2778) for automated information.

For Children: To obtain a passport, the child must be present, in person, with both parents at the place of issuance; or a notarized statement from the parents is required. Any questions parents or guardians might have can be answered by calling the National Passport Information Center at tel. 877/487-2778 Monday to Friday 8am to 8pm Eastern Standard Time.

If your passport is lost or stolen, go to your consulate as soon as possible for a replacement.

Visas

U.S., Canadian, U.K., Irish, Australian, and New Zealand citizens with a valid passport don't need a visa to enter Italy if they don't expect to stay more than 90 days and don't expect to work there. For more on visa applications, visit the Ministry of Foreign Affairs website (www.esteri.it).

Customs

What You Can Bring into Italy: Foreign visitors can bring along most items for personal use duty-free, including fishing tackle, a pair of skis, two tennis rackets, a baby carriage, two hand cameras with 10 rolls of film or a digital camera, computer, CD player with 10 CDs, tape recorder, binoculars, personal jewelry, portable radio set (subject to a small license fee), and 400 cigarettes and a quantity of cigars or pipe tobacco not exceeding 500 grams (1.1 lb.). There are strict limits on importing alcoholic beverages. However, for alcohol bought tax-paid, limits are much more liberal than in other countries of the European Union.

What You Can Take Home from Italy: Rules governing what you can bring back duty-free vary from country to country and are subject to change, but they're generally posted on the Web. Anyone caught buying counterfeit products can be fined up to 10,000€, and anyone caught selling counterfeit products could face criminal charges.

U.S. Citizens: For specifics on what you can bring back, download the invaluable free pamphlet Know Before You Go online at www.cbp.gov. (Click on "Travel," and then click on "Know Before You Go.") Or contact the U.S. Customs & Border Protection (CBP), 1300 Pennsylvania Ave. NW, Washington, DC 20229 (tel. 202/354-1000; www.cbp.gov), and request the pamphlet.

Canadian Citizens: For a clear summary of Canadian rules, write for the booklet I Declare, issued by the Canada Border Services Agency (tel. 800/461-9999 in Canada, or 204/983-3500; www.cbsa-asfc.gc.ca).

U.K. Citizens: For information, contact HM Revenue & Customs at tel. 0845/010-9000 (from outside the U.K., 02920/501-261), or consult their website at www.hmrc.gov.uk.

Australian Citizens: A helpful brochure available from Australian consulates or Customs offices is Know Before You Go. For more information, call the Australian Customs Service at tel. 1300/363-263, or log on to www.customs.gov.au.

New Zealand Citizens: Most questions are answered in a free pamphlet available at New Zealand consulates and Customs offices: New Zealand Customs Guide for Travellers, Notice no. 4. For more information, contact New Zealand Customs Service, The Customhouse, 17-21 Whitmore St., Box 2218, Wellington (tel. 04/473-6099 or 0800/428-786; www.customs.govt.nz).

Tips for Gay and Lesbian Travelers

Since 1861, Italy has had liberal legislation regarding homosexuality, but that doesn't mean it has been looked on favorably in a Catholic country. Homosexuality is much more accepted in the north than in the south, especially in Sicily, although Taormina has long been a gay mecca. However, all major towns and cities have an active gay life, especially Florence, Rome, and Milan, which considers itself the "gay capital" of Italy. Capri is the gay resort of Italy, rivaled only by the gay beaches of Venice.

Tips for Student Travelers

The International Student Travel Confederation (ISTC; www.istc.org) was formed in 1949 to make travel around the world more affordable for students. Check out its website for comprehensive travel services information and details on how to get an International Student Identity Card (ISIC), which qualifies students for substantial savings on rail passes, plane tickets, entrance fees, and more. It also provides students with basic health and life insurance and a 24-hour help line. The card is valid for a maximum of 18 months. You can apply for the card online or in person at STA Travel (tel. 800/781-4040 in North America; www.statravel.com); visit the website to locate offices worldwide. If you're not a student but are under 26, you can get an International Youth Travel Card (IYTC) from the same people, which entitles you to some discounts. Travel CUTS (tel. 800/592-2887; www.travelcuts.com) offers similar services for both Canadians and U.S. residents. Irish students may prefer to turn to USIT (tel. 01/602-1906; www.usit.ie), an Ireland-based specialist in student, youth, and independent travel.

Regions in Brief

Although bordered on the northwest by France, on the north by Switzerland and Austria, and on the east by Slovenia, Italy is a land largely surrounded by the sea. It isn’t enormous, but the peninsula’s boot shape gives you the impression of a much larger area. Here’s a brief rundown of the cities and regions:

Rome & Latium -- The region of Latium (“Lazio” in Italian) is dominated by Rome, capital of both the ancient empire and modern Italy. Much of the “civilized world” was once ruled from here, starting from the days when Romulus and Remus are said to have founded Rome in 753 b.c. There’s no place with more artistic monuments, or a bigger buzz—not even Venice or Florence.

Florence & Tuscany -- Tuscany is one of Italy's most culturally and politically influential provinces—the development of Italy without Tuscany is simply unthinkable (and the Italian language is merely a standardized version of the Florentine dialect). Nowhere in the world is the impact of the Renaissance still felt more fully than in its birthplace, Florence, the repository of artistic works left by Masaccio, Leonardo, Michelangelo, and others. The main Tuscan destinations beyond Florence are the smaller cities of Lucca, Pisa, and especially Siena, Florence’s great historical rival, as well as the Chianti winelands.

Umbria -- Neighboring Tuscany, Umbria is a land of rolling green hills and olive groves where the pace of life is sedate. It has outstanding art and sights in Perugia, Assisi and the former Etruscan capital of Orvieto.

Bologna & Emilia-Romagna -- Italians don’t agree on much, but one national consensus is that the food in Emilia-Romagna is probably the best in Italy. The capital, Bologna, also has museums, churches, and a fine university with roots in the Middle Ages. Among the region's other art cities, none is nobler than Byzantine Ravenna, with its mosaics dating to the time when it was capital of a declining Roman Empire.

Venice & the Veneto -- Northeastern Italy is one of Europe’s treasure-troves, encompassing Venice (certainly the world’s most unusual city) and the surrounding Veneto region. Aging, decaying, and sinking into the sea, Venice is so alluring we almost want to say, visit it even if you have to skip Rome and Florence. Also recommended are the art cities of the “Venetian Arc”: Verona, with its romance and intact Roman Arena; and Padua, with its Giotto frescoes.

Lombardy, Piedmont & the Lakes -- Flat, fertile, and prosperous, Lombardy is dominated by Milan. However, despite Leonardo’s “Last Supper,”La Scala opera house, the shopping, and some major museums, Milan doesn’t have the sights of Rome, Florence, or Venice. You’ll find more charm (and a more manageable area to cover) in the neighboring cities of Bergamo and Mantua. Also competing for your time should be the photogenic lakes of Como and Garda.

Piedmont's largest city, Turin, is the home of the Fiat empire (and vermouth). Turin’s best-known sight is the Sacra Sindone (Holy Shroud), which some Catholics believe is the cloth in which Christ’s body was wrapped.

Liguria -- Comprising most of the Italian Riviera, the region of Liguria incorporates the major historical seaport of Genoa, charming, upscale harbors such as the one at Portofino, and Italy’s best coastal hiking, among the traditional communities of the Cinque Terre.

Campania -- Campania encompasses both the fascinating anarchy of Naples and the elegant beauty of Capri and the Amalfi Coast. The region also contains sites identified in ancient mythology (lakes defined as the entrance to the Kingdom of the Dead, for example) and some of the world’s most renowned ruins, including Pompeii and Herculaneum.

Puglia & Basilicata -- Cave dwellings pepper Matera in Basilicata—the Sassi—inhabited continuously since the Paleolithic era. Puglia (seomtimes called Apulia in English) is home to the conical trulli houses of Alberobello and the Valle d'Itria, and the baroque architecture of Lecce—sometimes nicknamed "the Florence of the South".

Sicily -- The largest island in the Mediterranean Sea, Sicily has a unique mix of bloodlines and architecture from medieval Normandy, Aragónese Spain, Moorish North Africa, ancient Greece, Phoenicia, and Rome. Cars and fashionable people clog the lanes of its capital, Palermo. Areas of ravishing beauty and eerie historical interest include Syracuse (Siracusa in Italian) and Taormina, and the ruins at Agrigento and Selinunte. In fact, Sicily’s ruins are rivaled only by Rome itself.

Tips on Accommodations

House-Swapping -- House-swapping is a more and viable means of travel; you stay in their place, they stay in yours, and you both get a more authentic and personal view of a destination, the opposite of the escapist retreat many hotels offer. Try HomeExchange.com or LoveHomeSwap.com are also reliable.

Getting There

By Plane

High season on most airlines' routes to Rome is usually from June to the beginning of September. This is the most expensive and crowded time to travel. Shoulder season is from April to May, early September to October, and December 15 to December 24. Low season is from November 1 to December 14 and December 25 to March 31.

From North America -- Fares to Italy are constantly changing, but you can expect to pay somewhere in the range of $460 to $1,600 for a direct round-trip ticket from New York to Rome in coach class.

Flying time to Rome from New York, Newark, and Boston is 8 hours; from Chicago, 10 hours; and from Los Angeles, 12 1/2 hours. Flying time to Milan from New York, Newark, and Boston is 8 hours; from Chicago, 9 1/4 hours; and from Los Angeles, 11 1/2 hours.

American Airlines (tel. 800/433-7300; www.aa.com) offers daily nonstop flights to Rome from Chicago's O'Hare, with flights from all parts of American's vast network making connections into Chicago. Delta (tel. 800/221-1212; www.delta.com) flies from New York's JFK to Milan and Rome; separate flights depart every evening for both destinations. USAirways/AmericaWest (tel. 800/622-1015; www.usairways.com) offers one flight daily to Rome out of Philadelphia (you can connect through Philly from most major U.S. cities). And Continental (tel. 800/231-0856; www.continental.com) flies several times a week to Rome and Milan from its hub in Newark.

Air Canada (tel. 888/247-2262; www.aircanada.com) flies daily from Toronto to Rome. Two of the flights are nonstop; the others may touch down en route in Montreal, depending on the schedule.

British Airways (tel. 800/AIRWAYS; www.britishairways.com), Virgin Atlantic Airways (tel. 800/821-5438; www.virgin-atlantic.com), Air France (tel. 800/237-2747; www.airfrance.com), Northwest/KLM (tel. 800/225-2525; www.nwa.com), and Lufthansa (tel. 800/645-3880; www.lufthansa-usa.com) offer some attractive deals for anyone interested in combining a trip to Italy with a stopover in, say, Britain, Paris, Amsterdam, or Germany.

Alitalia (tel. 800/223-5730; www.alitalia.com) is the Italian national airline, with nonstop flights to Rome from many North American cities, including New York (JFK), Newark, Boston, Chicago, Miami, Washington, and Toronto. Nonstop flights into Milan are from New York (JFK) and Newark. From Milan or Rome, Alitalia can easily book connecting domestic flights if your final destination is elsewhere in Italy. Alitalia participates in the frequent-flier programs of other airlines, including Continental and US Airways.

From the United Kingdom -- Operated by the European Travel Network, www.discountairfares.com is a great online source for regular and discounted airfares to destinations around the world. You can also use this site to compare rates and book accommodations, car rentals, and tours. Click on "Special Offers" for the latest package deals.

British newspapers are always full of classified ads touting slashed fares to Italy. One good source is Time Out. London's Evening Standard has a daily travel section, and the Sunday editions of almost any newspaper will run many ads. Although competition is fierce, one well-recommended company that consolidates bulk ticket purchases and then passes the savings on to its consumers is Trailfinders (tel. 0845/050-5945; www.trailfinders.com). It offers access to tickets on such carriers as SAS, British Airways, and KLM.

Both British Airways (tel. 0870/850-9850 in the U.K.; www.britishairways.co.uk) and Alitalia (tel. 0871/424-1424; www.alitalia.it) have frequent flights from London's Heathrow to Rome, Milan, Venice, Pisa (the gateway to Florence), and Naples. Flying time from London to these cities is from 2 to 3 hours. British Airways also has one direct flight a day from Manchester to Rome.

Getting There by Car

If you're already on the Continent, particularly in a neighboring country such as France or Austria, you may want to drive to Italy. However, you should make arrangements in advance with your car-rental company.

It's also possible to drive from London to Rome, a distance of 1,810km (1,124 miles), via Calais/Boulogne/Dunkirk, or 1,747km (1,085 miles) via Oostende/Zeebrugge, not counting channel crossings by Hovercraft, ferry, or the Chunnel. Milan is some 644km (400 miles) closer to Britain than is Rome. If you cross over from England and arrive at one of the continental ports, you still face a 24-hour drive. Most drivers budget 3 days for the journey.

Most of the roads from western Europe leading into Italy are toll-free, with some notable exceptions. If you use the Swiss superhighway network, you'll have to buy a special tax sticker at the frontier. You'll also pay to go through the St. Gotthard Tunnel into Italy. Crossings from France can be through the Mont Blanc Tunnel, for which you'll pay, or you can leave the French Riviera at Menton and drive directly into Italy along the Italian Riviera toward San Remo.

If you don't want to drive such distances, ask a travel agent to book you on a Motorail arrangement where the train carries your car. This service is good only to Milan -- no car or sleeper expresses run the 644km (400 miles) south to Rome.

Getting There by Train

If you plan to travel heavily on the European rails, you'll do well to secure the latest copy of the Thomas Cook European Timetable of Railroads. It's available online at www.thomascooktimetables.com.

Electric trains have made travel between France and Italy faster and more comfortable than ever. France's TGVs travel at speeds of up to 320kmph (200 mph) and have cut travel time between Paris and Turin from 7 to 5 1/2 hours and between Paris and Milan from 7 1/2 to 6 3/4 hours. Italy's ETRs travel at speeds of up to 280kmph (174 mph) and currently run between Milan and Lyon (5 hr.), with a stop in Turin.

Eurailpass -- Many travelers to Europe take advantage of one of the greatest travel bargains, the Eurail Global Pass, which allows you unlimited travel in 18 Eurail-affiliated countries. You can travel on any of the days within the validity period, which is available for 15 days, 21 days, 1 month, 2 months, 3 months, and some other possibilities as well.

The advantages are tempting: There are no tickets; simply show the pass to the ticket collector, then settle back to enjoy the scenery. Seat reservations are required on some trains. Many trains have couchettes (sleeping cars), for which an extra fee is charged. Obviously, the 2- or 3-month traveler gets the greatest economic advantages. To obtain full advantage of a 15-day or 1-month pass, you'd have to spend a great deal of time on the train.

Eurailpass holders are entitled to considerable reductions on certain buses and ferries as well. You'll get a 20% reduction on second-class accommodations from certain companies operating ferries between Naples and Palermo or for crossings to Sardinia and Malta.

Prices for first-class adult travel are $685 for 15 days, $879 for 21 days, $1,089 for 1 month, $1,539 for 2 months, and $1,899 for 3 months. Children 4 to 11 pay half fare; those 3 and under travel for free.

A Eurail Global Pass Saver, also valid for first-class travel in 18 countries, offers a special deal for two or more people traveling together. This pass costs $569 for 15 days, $745 for 21 days, $925 for 1 month, $1,309 for 2 months, and $1,615 for 3 months.

A Eurail Global Youth Pass for those 12 to 25 allows second-class travel in 18 countries. This pass costs $439 for 15 days, $569 for 21 days, $709 for 1 month, $999 for 2 months, and $1,235 for 3 months.

The Eurail Select Pass offers unlimited travel on the national rail networks of any 3, 4, or 5 bordering countries out of the 22 Eurail nations linked by train or ship. Two or more passengers can travel together for big discounts, getting 5, 6, 8, 10, or 15 days of rail travel within any 2-month period on the national rail networks of any three, four, or five adjoining Eurail countries linked by train or ship. A sample fare: For 5 days in 2 months you pay $429 for three countries. Eurail Select Pass Youth for travelers under 26, allows second-class travel within the same guidelines as Eurail Selectpass, with fees starting at $279. Eurail Select Pass Saver offers discounts for two or more people traveling together, first-class travel within the same guidelines as Eurail Selectpass, with fees starting at $565.

Where to Buy a Pass -- In North America, you can buy these passes from travel agents or rail agents in major cities such as New York, Montreal, and Los Angeles. Eurailpasses are also available through Rail Europe (tel. 888/382-7245; www.raileurope.com). No matter what everyone tells you, you can buy Eurailpasses in Europe as well as in America (at the major train stations), but they're more expensive. Rail Europe can give you information on the rail/drive versions of the passes.

For details on the rail passes available in the United Kingdom, stop in at or contact the National Rail Enquiries, Victoria Station, London SW1V 1JZ (tel. 020/7278-5240). The staff can help you find the best option for the trip you're planning. Some of the most popular are the Inter-Rail and Under 26 passes, entitling you to unlimited second-class travel in 26 European countries.

Italy Train Passes -- This pass may be a good deal in that it grants unlimited travel on the national rail network of Italy (3 days of unlimited travel within a 2-month period). Travel days may be used either consecutively or nonconsecutively. The pass sells for $249 per person in first class or $199 in second class. Children 4 to 11 pay $125 or $100, respectively.

When to Go

The best months for traveling in much of Italy are from April to June and mid-September to October: Temperatures are usually comfortable, rural colors are rich, and the crowds aren’t too intense (except around Easter). From July through early September the country’s holiday spots teem with visitors. Easter, May, and June usually see the highest hotel prices in Rome and Florence.

August is the worst month in many places: Not only does it get uncomfortably hot and muggy, but seemingly the entire country goes on vacation for at least two weeks (many Italians take off the entire month). Plenty of family-run hotels, restaurants, and shops are closed, except at the spas, beaches, and islands, where most Italians head. Paradoxically, you will have many urban places almost to yourself if you visit in August—Turin and Milan in particular can seem virtual ghost towns, and even excellent hotels there are heavily discounted. (Florence and Rome are no longer as quiet as they once were.) Just be aware that many fashionable restaurants and nightspots are closed for the whole month.

From late October to Easter, many attractions operate on shorter winter hours, and some hotels are closed for renovation or redecoration, although inconvenience is much less likely if you are visiting a city. Many family-run restaurants take a week or two off sometime between November and February; spa and beach destinations become padlocked ghost towns.

Weather

It’s warm all over Italy in summer; it can be very hot in the south, and almost anywhere inland. Landlocked cities in Tuscany and Umbria, and on the plains of Veneto, Lombardy, and Emilia-Romagna, feel stifling during a July or August hot spell. The higher temperatures (measured in Italy in degrees Celsius) usually begin everywhere in May, often lasting until sometime in October. Winters in the north of Italy are cold, with rain and snow. A biting wind whistles over the mountains into Milan, Turin, and Venice. Likewise in Florence, though less regularly. In Rome and the south the weather is warm (or at least, warm-ish) almost all year, averaging 10° C (50° F) in winter. But even here, cold snaps are possible.

The rainiest months pretty much everywhere are usually October and November.

Holidays: Offices, government buildings (though not usually tourist offices), and shops in Italy are generally closed on: January 1 (Capodanno, or New Year), January 6 (La Befana, or Epiphany), Easter Sunday (Pasqua), Easter Monday (Pasquetta), April 25 (Liberation Day), May 1 (Festa del Lavoro, or Labor Day), June 2 (Festa della Repubblica, or Republic Day), August 15 (Ferragosto, or the Assumption of the Virgin), November 1 (All Saints’ Day), December 8 (L’Immacolata, or the Immaculate Conception), December 25 (Natale, Christmas Day), and December 26 (Santo Stefano, or St. Stephen’s Day).

Additionally, you’ll often find businesses closed for the annual daylong celebration dedicated to the local saint (for example, on January 31 in San Gimignano, Tuscany).

Tips for Travelers with Disabilities

Laws in Italy require rail stations, airports, hotels, and most restaurants to follow a strict set of regulations about wheelchair accessibility to restrooms, ticket counters, and the like. Even museums and other attractions have conformed to the regulations. Always call ahead to check on the accessibility in hotels, restaurants, and sights.

With overcrowded streets, more than 400 bridges, and difficult-to-board vaporetti (water buses), Venice has never been accused of being too user-friendly for those with disabilities. The Venice tourist office distributes a free map called Veneziapertutti ("Venice for All"), illustrating what parts of the city are accessible and listing accessible churches, monuments, gardens, public offices, hotels, and restrooms. According to various announcements, Venice will pay even more attention to this issue in the future, possibly adding retractable ramps operated by magnetic cards.

Organizations that offer a vast range of resources and assistance to travelers with disabilities include MossRehab (tel. 800/CALL-MOSS; www.mossresourcenet.org); the American Foundation for the Blind (AFB; tel. 800/232-5463 or 212/502-7600; www.afb.org); and Wheelchair Travel (www.wheelchairtravel.org).

Many travel agencies offer customized tours and itineraries for travelers with disabilities. Among them is Accessible Journeys (tel. 800/846-4537 or 610/521-0339; www.disabilitytravel.com).

The "Accessible Travel" link at Mobility-Advisor.com (www.mobility-advisor.com) offers a variety of travel resources to persons with disabilities.

Tips on Dining

For a quick bite, go to a bar. Although bars in Italy do serve alcohol, they function mainly as cafes. Prices have a split personality: al banco is standing at the bar, while à tavola means sitting at a table where you'll be waited on and charged two to four times as much. In bars you can find panino sandwiches on various kinds of rolls and tramezzini (giant triangles of white-bread sandwiches with the crusts cut off). These both run 1€ and are traditionally put in a tiny press to flatten and toast them so the crust is crispy and the filling is hot and gooey; microwave ovens have unfortunately invaded and are everywhere, turning panini into something resembling a soggy hot tissue.

Pizza a taglio or pizza rustica indicates a place where you can order pizza by the slice -- though Florence is infamous for serving some of Italy's worst pizza this way. Florentines fare somewhat better at pizzerie, casual sit-down restaurants that cook large, round pizzas with very thin crusts in wood-burning ovens. A tavola calda (literally "hot table") serves ready-made hot foods you can take away or eat at one of the few small tables often available. The food is usually very good. A rosticceria is the same type of place, and you'll see chickens roasting on a spit in the window.

A full-fledged restaurant will go by the name osteria, trattoria, or ristorante. Once upon a time, these terms meant something -- osterie were basic places where you could get a plate of spaghetti and a glass of wine; trattorie were casual places serving full meals of filling peasant fare; and ristoranti were fancier places, with waiters in bow ties, printed menus, wine lists, and hefty prices. Nowadays, fancy restaurants often go by the name of trattoria to cash in on the associated charm factor; trendy spots use osteria to show they're hip; and simple, inexpensive places sometimes tack on ristorante to ennoble themselves.

The pane e coperto (bread and cover) is a 1€ cover charge that you must pay at most restaurants for the mere privilege of sitting at the table. Most Italians eat a leisurely full meal -- appetizer and first and second courses -- at lunch and dinner and expect you to do the same, or at least a first and second course. To request the bill, ask "Il conto, per favore" (eel con-toh, pore fah-vohr-ay). A tip of 15% is usually included in the bill these days, but if you're unsure, ask "È incluso il servizio?" (ay een-cloo-soh eel sair-vee-tsoh?).

You'll find at many restaurants, especially larger ones and in cities, a menu turistico (tourist's menu), sometimes called menu del giorno (menu of the day). This set-price menu usually covers all meal incidentals -- including table wine, cover charge, and 15% service charge -- along with a first course (primo) and second course (secondo), but it almost always offers an abbreviated selection of pretty bland dishes: spaghetti in tomato sauce and slices of pork. Sometimes a better choice is a menu à prezzo fisso (fixed-price menu). It usually doesn't include wine but sometimes covers the service and often offers a wider selection of better dishes, occasionally house specialties and local foods. Ordering a la carte, however, offers you the best chance for a memorable meal. Even better, forego the menu entirely and put yourself in the capable hands of your waiter.

The enoteche (wine bar) is a popular marriage of a wine bar and an osteria, where you can sit and order from a host of local and regional wines by the glass while snacking on finger foods (and usually a number of simple first-course possibilities) that reflect the region's fare. Relaxed and full of ambience and good wine, these are great spots for light and inexpensive lunches -- perfect to educate your palate and recharge your batteries.

Food Markets

Most Italian towns host an outdoor market -- usually held weekly or twice weekly in smaller towns, and daily in larger towns and cities. Most markets sell a good selection of food, including fresh produce and regional cheeses, and an unexciting range of cheaply made clothing, kitchen utensils, and other run-of-the-mill household items. For genuine crafts, antiques, and other finds, you'll need to stumble into the larger markets or a mercantino dell'antiquariato (antiques fair), which many towns host periodically.

No Smoking in Restaurants

In 2005 Italy launched one of Europe's toughest laws against smoking in public places, including bars and restaurants. All restaurants and bars come under the ruling except those with ventilated smoking rooms. Otherwise, smokers can retreat to the outdoors or private homes. Smokers face fines if caught lighting up. Only 10% of Italian restaurants currently have separate smoking areas. Note that if you opt for an outdoor table at a restaurant, you may be essentially choosing a seat in the smoking section; requesting that your neighbor not smoke may not be politely received.

Sustainable Travel & Ecotourism

Each time you take a flight or drive a car, carbon dioxide (CO2) is released into the atmosphere. You can help neutralize this danger to our planet through "carbon offsetting" -- paying someone to reduce your carbon dioxide emissions by the same amount. Carbon offsets can be purchased from companies such as Carbonfund.org (www.carbonfund.org) or Climate Care (www.climatecare.org) among others.

Responsible Travel (www.responsibletravel.com) contains a great source of sustainable travel ideas run by a spokesperson for responsible tourism in the travel industry. Ethical Traveler (http://ethicaltraveler.org) is another excellent resource promoting responsible tourism practices.

Here are a few simple ways you can help conserve fuel and energy when you travel:

• Whenever possible, choose nonstop flights; they generally require less fuel than indirect flights that stop and take off again. Try to fly during the day -- some scientists estimate that nighttime flights are twice as harmful to the environment. And pack light -- each 15 pounds of luggage on a 5,000-mile flight adds up to 50 pounds of carbon dioxide emitted.
• Where you stay during your travels can have a major environmental impact. To determine the green credentials of a property, ask about trash disposal and recycling, water conservation, and energy use; also question if sustainable materials were used in the construction of the property. The website www.greenhotels.com recommends green-rated member hotels around the world that fulfill the company's stringent environmental requirements.
• At hotels, request that your sheets and towels not be changed daily. (Many hotels already have programs like this in place.) Turn off the lights and air conditioner (or heater) when you leave your room.
• Use public transport where possible -- trains, buses, and even taxis are more energy-efficient forms of transport than driving. Even better is to walk or cycle; you'll produce zero emissions and stay fit and healthy on your travels.
• If renting a car is necessary, ask the rental agent for a hybrid, or rent the most fuel-efficient car available. You'll use less gas and save money at the tank.
• Eat at locally owned and operated restaurants that use produce grown in the area. This contributes to the local economy and cuts down on greenhouse gas emissions by supporting restaurants where the food is not flown or trucked in across long distances.

Escorted & Package Tours

Tips for Families

Most Italian hoteliers will let children 12 and under stay in a room with a parent for free -- with a little negotiation at the reception desk. Italians love bambini but don't offer a lot of special amenities for them. For example, a kids' menu in a restaurant is a rarity. You can, however, order a half portion (mezza porzione) for your little one. At attractions, inquire if a sconto bambino (kids' discount) is available. For European Union kids under 18, admission is free to state-run museums.

Money

It's always advisable to bring money in a variety of forms on a vacation: a mix of cash, credit cards, and traveler's checks. You should also exchange enough petty cash to cover airport incidentals, tipping, and transportation to your hotel before you leave home, or withdraw money upon arrival at an airport ATM.

In many international destinations, ATMs offer the best exchange rates. Avoid exchanging money at commercial exchange bureaus and hotels, which often have the highest transaction fees.

Currency

The euro became the official currency of Italy and 11 other participating countries on January 1, 1999. For details on the euro, check out www.ec.europa.eu/euro.

ATMs

The easiest and best way to get cash away from home is from an ATM (automated teller machine), sometimes referred to as a "cash machine" or a "cashpoint." The Cirrus (tel. 800/424-7787; www.mastercard.com) and PLUS (tel. 800/843-7587; www.visa.com) networks span the globe. Go to your bank card's website to find ATM locations at your destination. Be sure you know your personal identification number (PIN) and your daily withdrawal limit before you depart. Note: Many banks impose a fee every time you use a card at another bank's ATM, and that fee can be higher for international transactions (up to $5 or more) than for domestic ones (where they're rarely more than $2). In addition, the bank from which you withdraw cash may charge its own fee. For international withdrawal fees, ask your bank.

Note: Banks that are members of the Global ATM Alliance charge no transaction fees for cash withdrawals at other Alliance member ATMs; these include Bank of America, Scotiabank (Canada, Caribbean, and Mexico), Barclays (U.K. and parts of Africa), and Deutsche Bank (Germany, Poland, Spain, and Italy), and BNP Paribus (France).

Credit Cards

Credit cards are another safe way to carry money. They also provide a convenient record of all your expenses, and they generally offer relatively good exchange rates. You can withdraw cash advances from your credit cards at banks or ATMs but high fees make credit card cash advances a pricey way to get cash. Keep in mind that you'll pay interest from the moment of your withdrawal, even if you pay your monthly bills on time. Also, note that many banks now assess a 1% to 3% "transaction fee" on all charges you incur abroad (whether you're using the local currency or your native currency).

Traveler's Checks

These days, traveler's checks seem less necessary because most Italian cities and towns have 24-hour ATMs, allowing you to withdraw small amounts of cash as needed. But if you prefer to stick with traveler's checks, be ready to show an ID every time you want to cash a check.

You can buy traveler's checks at most banks. They are offered in denominations of $20, $50, $100, $500, and sometimes $1,000. Generally, you'll pay a service charge ranging from 1% to 4%.

The most popular traveler's checks are offered by American Express (tel. 800/221-7282 for cardholders -- this number accepts collect calls, offers service in several foreign languages, and exempts Amex gold and platinum cardholders from the 1% fee); Visa (tel. 800/732-1322) -- AAA members can obtain Visa checks for a $9.95 fee (for checks up to $1,500) at most AAA offices or by calling tel. 866/339-3378 and MasterCard (tel. 800/223-9920).

Be sure to keep a record of the traveler's checks' serial numbers separate from your checks in the event that they are stolen or lost. You'll get a refund faster if you know the numbers.

American Express, Thomas Cook, Visa, and MasterCard offer foreign currency traveler's checks, useful if you're traveling to one country or to the euro zone; they're accepted at locations where dollar checks may not be.

Tips for Single Travelers

On package vacations, single travelers are often hit with a "single supplement" to the base price. To avoid it, you can agree to room with other single travelers or find a roommate before you go. Or travel independently: usually that will be the less expensive option and it will give you a better chance to meet the locals.

Health & Insurance

Staying Healthy

In general, Italy is viewed as a "safe" destination, although problems, of course, can and do occur anywhere. You don't need to get shots; most foodstuff is safe and the water in cities and towns potable. If you're concerned, order bottled water. It is easy to get a prescription filled in towns and cities, and nearly all places throughout Italy contain English-speaking doctors at hospitals with well-trained medical staffs.

General Availability of Healthcare -- Contact the International Association for Medical Assistance to Travelers (IAMAT; tel. 716/754-4883, or 416/652-0137 in Canada; www.iamat.org) for tips on travel and health concerns in the countries you're visiting, and for lists of local, English-speaking doctors. The United States Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (tel. 800/311-3435; www.cdc.gov) provides up-to-date information on health hazards by region or country and offers tips on food safety. Travel Health Online (www.tripprep.com), sponsored by a consortium of travel medicine practitioners, may also offer helpful advice on traveling abroad. You can find listings of reliable medical clinics overseas at the International Society of Travel Medicine (tel. 770/736-0313; www.istm.org).

Healthy Travels to You -- The following government websites offer up-to-date health-related travel advice:

• Australia: www.dfat.gov.au
• Canada: www.hc-sc.gc.ca
• U.K.: www.dh.gov.uk
• U.S.: www.cdc.gov

What to Do If You Get Sick Away from Home -- Any foreign consulate can provide a list of area doctors who speak English. If you get sick, consider asking your hotel concierge to recommend a local doctor -- even his or her own.

For travel abroad, you may have to pay all medical costs upfront and be reimbursed later. Medicare and Medicaid do not provide coverage for medical costs outside the U.S. Before leaving home, find out what medical services your health insurance covers. To protect yourself, consider buying medical travel insurance.

Very few health insurance plans pay for medical evacuation back to the U.S. (which can cost $10,000 and up). A number of companies offer medical evacuation services anywhere in the world. If you're ever hospitalized more than 150 miles from home, MedjetAssist (tel. 800/527-7478; www.medjetassistance.com) will pick you up and fly you to the hospital of your choice. Annual memberships are $225 individual, $350 family; you can also purchase short-term memberships.

U.K. nationals will need a European Health Insurance Card (EHIC) to receive free or reduced-costs health benefits during a visit to a European Economic Area (EEA) country (European Union countries plus Iceland, Liechtenstein, and Norway) or Switzerland. The European Health Insurance Card replaces the E111 form, which is no longer valid. For advice, ask at your local post office or see www.dh.gov.uk/travellers.

For emergencies requiring an ambulance or immediate attention, call tel. 113.

If you suffer from a chronic illness, consult your doctor before your departure. Pack prescription medications in your carry-on luggage, and carry them in their original containers, with pharmacy labels -- otherwise they won't make it through airport security. Carry the generic name of prescription medicines, in case a local pharmacist is unfamiliar with the brand name.

Safety

The most common menace, especially in large cities, particularly Rome, is the plague of pickpockets and roving gangs of Gypsy children who surround you, distract you in all the confusion, and steal your purse or wallet. Never leave valuables in a car, and never travel with your car unlocked. A U.S. State Department travel advisory warns that every car (whether parked, stopped at a traffic light, or even moving) can be a potential target for armed robbery. In these uncertain times, it is always prudent to check the U.S. State Department's travel advisories at http://travel.state.gov.

Tips for Senior Travelers

Generally so-called "senior discounts" aren't all that they're cracked up to be. Before accepting one, go on the internet to find out whether you can get a better rate, especially for hotels. And note that

Many reliable agencies and organizations target the 50-plus market. Road Scholar (www.roadscholar.org) arranges worldwide study programs for those age 55 and over.

Fast Facts

American Express -- Offices are found in Rome at Piazza di Spagna 38 (tel. 06-67641), in Florence on Via Dante Alighieri 22 (tel. 055-50981), in Venice at San Marco 1471 (tel. 041-5200844), and in Milan at Via Larga 4 (tel. 02/721-041). See individual city listings.

ATMs -- The easiest and best way to get cash away from home -- the Cirrus (tel. 800/424-7787; www.mastercard.com) and PLUS (tel. 800/843-7587; www.visa.com) networks span the globe. Be sure you know your personal identification number (PIN) and your daily withdrawal limit before you depart. Note: Banks that are members of the Global ATM Alliance charge no transaction fees for cash withdrawals at other Alliance member ATMs; these include Bank of America, Scotiabank (Canada, Caribbean, and Mexico), Barclays (U.K. and parts of Africa), and Deutsche Bank (Germany, Poland, Spain, and Italy), and BNP Paribus (France).

Business Hours -- Regular business hours are generally Monday through Friday from 9am (sometimes 9:30am) to 1pm and 3:30 (sometimes 4pm) to 7 or 7:30pm. In July and August, offices might not open in the afternoon until 4:30 or 5pm. Banks are open Monday through Friday from 8:30am to 1 or 1:30pm and 2 or 2:30 to 4pm, and are closed all day Saturday, Sunday, and national holidays. The riposo (midafternoon closing) is often observed in Rome, Naples, and most southern cities; however, in Milan and other northern and central cities, the custom has been abolished by some merchants. Most shops are closed on Sunday, except for certain tourist-oriented stores that are now permitted to remain open on Sunday during the high season. If you're in Italy in summer and the heat is intense, we suggest that you, too, learn the custom of the riposo.

Car Rentals -- The three major rental companies in Italy are Avis (tel. 800/331-1084; www.avis.com), Budget (tel. 800/472-3325; www.budget.com), and Hertz (tel. 800/654-3001; www.hertz.com). U.S.-based companies specializing in European car rentals are Auto Europe (tel. 888/223-5555; www.autoeurope.com), Europe by Car (tel. 800/223-1516, or 212/581-3040 in New York; www.europebycar.com), and Kemwel Drive Europe (tel. 877/820-0668; www.kemwel.com).

Currency -- The euro became the official currency of Italy and 11 other participating countries on January 1, 1999. At the time of this writing, US$1 was worth approximately .68€. Inversely stated, 1€ was worth approximately US$1.45.

Driving Rules -- Drive on the right; pass on the left. Use your seat belts! Careless or reckless drivers face fines; serious violators could land themselves in prison!

Drugstores -- At every drugstore (farmacia) there's a list of those that are open at night and on Sunday.

Electricity -- The electricity in Italy varies considerably. It's usually alternating current (AC), varying from 42 to 50 cycles. The voltage can be anywhere from 115 to 220. It's recommended that any visitor carrying electrical appliances obtain a transformer. Most laptops and cellphone chargers are dual voltage, operating at either 100 volts or 200 volts. That means that only an adapter is required. Check the exact local current at the hotel where you're staying. Plugs have prongs that are round, not flat; therefore, an adapter plug is also needed.

Wherever you go, bring a connection kit of the right power and phone adapters, a spare phone cord, and a spare Ethernet network cable -- or find out whether your hotel supplies them to guests.

Embassies & Consulates -- In case of an emergency, embassies have a 24-hour referral service.

The U.S. Embassy is in Rome at Via Vittorio Veneto 121 (tel. 06-46-741; fax 06-46-74-2244). U.S. consulates are in Florence, at Lungarno Amerigo Vespucci 38 (tel. 055-266-951; fax 055-215-550), and in Milan, at Via Principe Amedeo 2-10 (tel. 02-29-03-51; fax 02-2903-5273). There's also a consulate in Naples on Piazza della Repubblica 1 (tel. 081-583-8111; fax 081-761-1804). The consulate in Genoa is at Via Dante 2 (tel. 010-58-44-92; fax 010-55-33-033). There is also a consulate in Palermo (Sicily) at Via Vaccarini 1 (tel. 091-305-857; fax 091-625-6026). For consulate hours, see individual city listings.

The Canadian Consulate and passport service is in Rome at Via Zara 30 (tel. 06-854441). The Canadian Embassy in Rome is at Via Salaria 243 (tel. 06-85444-2911; fax 06-445-982912). The Canadian Consulate in Naples is at Via Carducci 29 (tel. 081-401338; fax 081-410210).

The British Embassy is in Rome at Via XX Settembre 80 (tel. 06-422-00001; fax 06-42202334). The British Consulate in Florence is at Lungarno Corsini 2 (tel. 055-284-133; fax 055-219-112). The Consulate General in Naples is at Via Dei Mille 40 (tel. 081-4238-911; fax 081-422-434). In Milan, contact the office at Via San Paolo 7 (tel. 02-723-001; fax 02-869-2405).

The Australian Embassy is in Rome at Via Antonio Bosio 5 (tel. 06-852-721; fax 06-852-723-00). The Australian Consulate in Milan is at Via Borgogna 2 (tel. 02-77-70-41).

The New Zealand Embassy is in Rome at Via Zara 28 (tel. 06-441-7171; fax 06-440-2984). The Irish Embassy in Rome is at Piazza di Campitelli 3 (tel. 06-697-9121; fax 06-679-2354).

Emergencies -- Dial tel. 113 for ambulance, police, or fire. In case of a car breakdown, dial tel. 803-116 at the nearest telephone box; the nearest Automobile Club of Italy (ACI) will be notified to come to your aid.

Etiquette & Customs -- Some churches may require that you wear appropriate attire: Men need to wear long pants, and women must have their knees and shoulders covered in order to enter.

Hospitals -- For emergencies requiring an ambulance, call tel. 113.

Insurance -- For travel overseas, most U.S. health plans (including Medicare and Medicaid) do not provide coverage, and the ones that do often require you to pay for services upfront and reimburse you only after you return home.

As a safety net, you may want to buy travel medical insurance, particularly if you're traveling to a remote or high-risk area where emergency evacuation might be necessary. If you require additional medical insurance, try MEDEX Assistance (tel. 410/453-6300; www.medexassist.com) or Travel Assistance International (tel. 800/821-2828; www.travelassistance.com; for general information on services, call the company's Worldwide Assistance Services, Inc., at tel. 800/777-8710).

Canadians should check with their provincial health plan offices or call Health Canada (tel. 866/225-0709; www.hc-sc.gc.ca) to find out the extent of their coverage and what documentation and receipts they must take home in case they are treated overseas.

Travelers from the U.K. should carry their European Health Insurance Card (EHIC), which replaced the E111 form as proof of entitlement to free/reduced cost medical treatment abroad (tel. 0845 606 2030; www.ehic.org.uk). Note, however, that the EHIC only covers "necessary medical treatment," and for repatriation costs, lost money, baggage, or cancellation, travel insurance from a reputable company should always be sought (www.travelinsuranceweb.com).

Travel Insurance: The cost of travel insurance varies widely, depending on the destination, the cost and length of your trip, your age and health, and the type of trip you're taking, but expect to pay between 5% and 8% of the cost of the vacation itself. You can get estimates from various providers through InsureMyTrip.com. Enter your trip cost and dates, your age, and other information for prices from more than a dozen companies.

U.K. citizens and their families who make more than one trip abroad per year may find an annual travel insurance policy works out cheaper. Check www.moneysupermarket.com, which compares prices across a wide range of providers for single- and multitrip policies.

Most big travel agents offer their own insurance and will probably try to sell you their package when you book a holiday. Think before you sign. Britain's Consumers' Association recommends that you insist on seeing the policy and reading the fine print before buying travel insurance. The Association of British Insurers (tel. 020/7600-3333; www.abi.org.uk) gives advice by phone and publishes Holiday Insurance, a free guide to policy provisions and prices. You might also shop around for better deals: Try Columbus Direct (tel. 0870/033-9988; www.columbusdirect.net).

Trip Cancellation Insurance: Trip-cancellation insurance will help retrieve your money if you have to back out of a trip or depart early, or if your travel supplier goes bankrupt. Trip cancellation traditionally covers such events as sickness, natural disasters, and State Department advisories. The latest news in trip-cancellation insurance is the availability of expanded hurricane coverage and the "any-reason" cancellation coverage -- which costs more but covers cancellations made for any reason. You won't get back 100% of your prepaid trip cost, but you'll be refunded a substantial portion. TravelSafe (tel. 888/885-7233; www.travelsafe.com) offers both types of coverage. Expedia also offers any-reason cancellation coverage for its air-hotel packages. For details, contact one of the following recommended insurers: Access America (tel. 866/807-3982; www.accessamerica.com), Travel Guard International (tel. 800/826-4919; www.travelguard.com), Travel Insured International (tel. 800/243-3174; www.travelinsured.com), and Travelex Insurance Services (tel. 888/457-4602; www.travelex-insurance.com).

Language -- Italian, of course, is the language of the land, but English is generally understood at most attractions such as museums and at most hotels and restaurants that cater to visitors. Even if few staff members at a restaurant, for example, speak English, one person almost always does and can be summoned. As you travel in remote towns and villages, especially in the south, a Berlitz Italian phrase book is a handy accompaniment.

Legal Aid -- The consulate of your country is the place to turn for legal aid, although offices can't interfere in the Italian legal process. They can, however, inform you of your rights and provide a list of attorneys. You'll have to pay for the attorney out of your pocket -- there's no free legal assistance. If you're arrested for a drug offense, about all the consulate will do is notify a lawyer about your case and perhaps inform your family.

Liquor Laws -- Wine with meals has been a normal part of family life for hundreds of years in Italy. Children are exposed to wine at an early age, and consumption of alcohol isn't anything out of the ordinary. There's no legal drinking age for buying or ordering alcohol. Alcohol is sold day and night throughout the year because there's almost no restriction on the sale of wine or liquor in Italy.

Lost & Found -- Alert your credit card companies the minute you discover your wallet has been lost or stolen and file a report at the nearest police precinct. Your credit card company or insurer may require a police report number or record of the loss. Most credit card companies have an emergency toll-free number to call if your card is lost or stolen; they may be able to wire you a cash advance immediately or deliver an emergency credit card in a day or two. If you have lost your card, use the following numbers: Visa: tel. 800/819-014; MasterCard: tel. 800/870-866; Amex: tel. 06-7228-0848.

If you need emergency cash over the weekend when all banks and American Express offices are closed, you can have money wired to you via Western Union (tel. 800/325-6000; www.westernunion.com).

Mail -- Mail delivery in Italy is notoriously bad. Your family and friends back home might receive your postcards in 1 week, or it might take 2 weeks (or longer). Postcards, aerogrammes, and letters weighing up to 20 grams sent to the United States and Canada cost .85€ ($1.25); to the United Kingdom and Ireland, .65€ (94¢); and to Australia and New Zealand, 1.05€ ($1.50). You can buy stamps at all post offices and at tabacchi (tobacco) stores.

Measurements -- See www.onlineconversion.com for details on converting metric measurements to nonmetric equivalents.

Newspapers & Magazines -- In major cities, it's possible to find the International Herald Tribune or USA Today, as well as other English-language newspapers and magazines, including Time and Newsweek, at hotels and news kiosks. The Rome Daily American is published in English.

Police -- Dial tel. 113 for police emergency assistance in Italy.

Restrooms -- All airport and rail stations, of course, have restrooms, often with attendants who expect to be tipped. Bars, nightclubs, restaurants, cafes, gas stations, and all hotels have facilities. Public toilets are found near many of the major sights. Usually they're designated as WC (water closet) or DONNE (women) and UOMINI (men). The most confusing designation is SIGNORI (gentlemen) and SIGNORE (ladies), so watch that final i and e! Many public toilets charge a small fee or employ an attendant who expects a tip. It's a good idea to carry some tissues in your pocket or purse -- they often come in handy.

Taxes -- As a member of the European Union, Italy imposes a value-added tax (called IVA in Italy) on most goods and services. The tax that most affects visitors is the one imposed on hotel rates, which ranges from 10% in first- and second-class hotels to 19% in deluxe hotels.

Non-E.U. (European Union) citizens are entitled to a refund of the IVA if they spend more than 155€ ($225) at any one store, before tax. To claim your refund, request an invoice from the cashier at the store and take it to the Customs office (dogana) at the airport to have it stamped before you leave. Note: If you're going to another E.U. country before flying home, have it stamped at the airport Customs office of the last E.U. country you'll be in (for example, if you're flying home via Britain, have your Italian invoices stamped in London). Once back home, mail the stamped invoice (keep a photocopy for your records) back to the original vendor within 90 days of the purchase. The vendor will, sooner or later, send you a refund of the tax that you paid at the time of your original purchase. Reputable stores view this as a matter of ordinary paperwork and are business-like about it. Less-honorable stores might lose your dossier. It pays to deal with established vendors on large purchases. You can also request that the refund be credited to the credit card with which you made the purchase; this is usually a faster procedure.

Many shops are now part of the "Tax Free for Tourists" network (look for the sticker in the window). Stores participating in this network issue a check along with your invoice at the time of purchase. After you have the invoice stamped at Customs, you can redeem the check for cash directly at the Tax Free booth in the airport (in Rome, it's past Customs; in Milan's airports, the booth is inside the duty-free shop) or mail it back in the envelope provided within 60 days.

Time Zone -- In terms of standard time zones, Italy is 6 hours ahead of Eastern Standard Time (EST) in the United States. Daylight saving time goes into effect in Italy each year from the end of March to the end of October.

Tipping -- This custom is practiced with flair in Italy -- many people depend on tips for their livelihoods.

In hotels, the service charge of 15% to 19% is already added to a bill. In addition, it's customary to tip the chambermaid €1 per day, the doorman (for calling a taxi) €1, and the bellhop or porter €2 to €3 for carrying your bags to your room. A concierge expects about 15% of his or her bill, as well as tips for extra services performed, which could include help with long-distance calls. In expensive hotels, these euro amounts are often doubled.

In restaurants and cafes, 15% is usually added to your bill to cover most charges. If you're not sure whether this has been done, ask, "È incluso il servizio?" (ay een-cloo-soh eel sair-vee-tsoh?). An additional tip isn't expected, but it's nice to leave the equivalent of an extra couple of euros if you've been pleased with the service. Checkroom attendants expect €1 per item, and washroom attendants should get 75¢ to  €1. Restaurants are required by law to give customers official receipts.

Taxi drivers expect at least 15% of the fare, or round up to the nearest €5.

Click here for our complete guide to tipping in Italy.

Calendar of Events

Staying Connected

To call Italy from the United States, dial the international prefix, 011; then Italy's country code, 39; and then the city code (for example, 06 for Rome and 055 for Florence), which is now built into every number. Then dial the actual phone number.

To call from one city code to another, dial the city code, complete with initial 0, and then dial the number. (Numbers in Italy range from four to eight digits. Even when you're calling within the same city, you must dial that city's area code -- including the zero. A Roman calling another Rome number must dial 06 before the local number.)

To dial direct internationally, dial 00 and then the country code, the area code, and the number. Country codes are as follows: the United States and Canada, 1; the United Kingdom, 44; Ireland, 353; Australia, 61; New Zealand, 64. Make international calls from a public phone, if possible, because hotels charge inflated rates for direct dial -- but bring plenty of schede (change). A reduced rate is applied from 11pm to 8am on Monday through Saturday and all day Sunday. Direct-dial calls from the United States to Italy are much cheaper, so arrange for whomever to call you at your hotel.

Visitor Information

For information before you go, contact the Italian Government Tourist Board (www.enit.it and www.italiantourism.com). Another helpful website is www.initaly.com.

In the United States -- 630 Fifth Ave., Suite 1565, New York, NY 10111 (tel. 212/245-4822; fax 212/586-9249); 500 N. Michigan Ave., Ste. 2240, Chicago, IL 60611 (tel. 312/644-0996; fax 312/644-3019); and 12400 Wilshire Blvd., Ste. 550, Los Angeles, CA 90025 (tel. 310/820-1898; fax 310/820-6357).

In Canada -- 175 Bloor St. E., South Tower, Ste. 907, Toronto, ON M4W 3R8 (tel. 416/925-4882; fax 416/925-4799).

In the United Kingdom -- 1 Princes St., London W1B 2AY (tel. 020/7408-1254).

You can also write directly (in English or Italian) to the provincial or local tourist boards of the areas you plan to visit. Provincial tourist boards (Ente Provinciale per il Turismo) operate in the principal towns of the provinces. Local tourist boards (Azienda Autonoma di Soggiorno e Turismo) operate in all places of tourist interest; you can get a list from the Italian Government Tourist Board.

Maps -- Most local tourist offices will provide fairly detailed maps of their city or town plans. These are particularly helpful in that all of the major sightseeing attractions are usually marked. Since most of these attractions are in the historic core of a town or city, the highlights can usually be covered on foot, except in such spread out cities as Rome where you'll need to rely on public transportation to get around.

The Automobile Club d'Italia issues a free map, available at State Tourist offices, if you're planning a motor tour of Italy.

For general touring, you can also check out the following websites: www.marquest.com, www.maporama.com, and www.michelin.com.

Before You Leave Home: Tickets & Seats in Advance -- Great to know about before you leave home is Culturalitaly.com, a Los Angeles-based Web company specializing in Italy's high-end events, museum reservations, and tours. You get the best seats and reservations to everything from operatic performances at the ancient Baths of Caracalla in Rome to tickets for Venice carnival events, even the fabled Palio in Siena. With this service, you don't have to wait in line for the Uffizi in Florence or The Last Supper in Milan. Most museum (and some other) reservations carry a 10€ ($15) fee, plus the cost of the event. Contact Culturalitaly.com by calling tel. 800/380-0014 or going to www.culturalitaly.com.