Things To Do in Jeju-do

There's no shortage of activities to keep you busy on the island. Be it climbing the tallest mountain in South Korea, exploring a cave, hiking to a waterfall, or just lounging on a sandy beach, you'll find plenty to do.

Hallasan (Mt. Halla)

At 1,950m (6,398 ft.), Hallasan is the highest peak in South Korea. This now-dormant volcano (which erupted during the fourth Cenozoic Era) sits at the center of the island and can be seen from anywhere on Jeju-do -- unless, of course, it's hiding behind the clouds, which happens often. Locals say that like a woman, the mountain is constantly hiding her face. The mountain also changes with the seasons, putting on bright pink azaleas in the spring and a beautiful white coat of snow in the winter. The crater at the summit is now a lake, Baengnokdam (which is also the old name for Hallasan), though the area directly surrounding the lake is currently closed to give the natural setting time to recover from all the climbers who've visited in the past few years. The name Baengnokdam came from the legend that the gods came down from the heavens to ride their white deer (baengnok) on the mountain.

There are four trails leading up to the top of the mountain, each varying in difficulty and length. None of them is easy, and you should set aside a whole day if you wish to reach the summit. Although there is natural spring water available on the way up, I highly recommend packing some extra water and a meal to enjoy once you get there. In cooler weather, bring a windbreaker since it will get colder and windier as you climb higher. The Yeongsil Trail is the easiest, but it still will take just under 4 hours to reach the top (and another 3 down). You can take an intercity bus to the Hallasan National Park management office to pick up the trail head -- it starts at the southwestern side of the peak and is 6.5km (4 miles) long. Personally, I think the Eorimok Trail is the most scenic (especially in May when the azaleas are in bloom). The entrance is 15km (9 1/3 miles) from Jeju-si and takes about 40 minutes via intercity bus. It's 7.8km (4.8 miles) long and will take you a little longer than the Yeongsil Trail. If you want a real challenge, take the Gwaneumsa Trail, which is steeper than the others. The entrance to the trail is at the Tamna Education Institute, about 11km (6 3/4 miles) from Jeju-si. From there it's about an hour to Gwaneum Temple, a total of 3 hours to reach the peak and another 2 1/2 down. The Seongpanak Trail is an easier climb with several resting spots. Another great trail for enjoying the azaleas, it takes about 4 1/2 hours to climb and another 4 to return.

Admission to the Hallasan National Park (tel. 064/713-9950; www.hallasan.go.kr) is W1,600 for ages 25 to 64, W600 for ages 13 to 24, and W300 for children. It's free for seniors 65 and over and kids 6 and under. Open all year-round, the park will be closed only for inclement weather. The park is open 5am to 10pm in the summer and 6am to 9pm in the winter. Overnight camping is prohibited. From the Jeju Intercity Bus Terminal, take a bus bound for Seongpanak. Daily buses run every 10 minutes 6am to 9:30pm. The 35-minute ride costs W1,700. Alternatively, you can take an Eorimok-bound bus from the terminal, which costs W2,200. Those buses run daily from 6am to 4:50pm every 80 minutes.

Jungmun Resort Complex

Located on the seashore in Seogwipo, this is the largest resort area in South Korea. If you're staying nearby, you can explore on foot, but from Jeju-si, take the Jungmun Express Bus (about 50 min.). For additional information, check out www.jungmunresort.com. These attractions are within the resort complex and are walking distance from Seogwipo.

Theme Parks

In the past couple of years, Jeju-do has become an island of many "lands," as unusual theme parks have popped up in hopes of attracting the thousands of tourists who visit every year. Most of them, like "Elephant Land" or "MiniMiniLand" can be tourist traps, but some give a bit of insight into Korean culture, while others are just plain fun.

Given that Jeju-do is such a major tourist destination, there is no shortage of shops or shopping areas. You can buy local products in specialty shops and traditional markets, or shop for jewelry or high-end fashion at department stores and duty-free shops. If you can time it right, try and visit the 5-day markets, so-called because they're held every 5 days at the same location. For more information, see the "Markets" section, below.

Some of Jeju-do's offerings include products inlaid with mother-of-pearl, black coral pipes (and other things made of coral), sculptures and souvenirs made from lava rock, shells, and locally made shawls and sweaters. You can also take home a jar of the famous Jeju honey (made from local mandarin orange or clover flowers).

Markets -- These traditional markets are mostly good for looking (how are you going to take 10 pounds of seafood on the plane with you?). They are still a fun way to experience the flavor of the island. Although there are O-il Jang ("5-Day" Markets) in Sehwa, Hamdeok, Hallim, Goseong, Daejeong, Seongsan, and Pyoseon, I've listed only the ones in the major areas. Those markets not listed as 5-day open daily.

Best Shopping Areas

One of the major shopping areas in Jeju-si is Tap-dong, which is located in the center of the city. There is an underground shopping center there, dedicated mostly to women's fashions. Another, newer shopping area is the Ildo District in Jeju-si, where there are some great places to eat too. The oldest shopping area in Jeju-si is the Chilseong-lo area, which used to be the center of town under Japanese occupation. There are still many shops here and the addition of bars and game rooms has revitalized the area.

In Seogwipo-si, the streets of Jungjeong-lo are filled with shops great for browsing, including the Dongmyeon Department Store and the Maeil ("Everyday") Market. The area is located between Jungjang-dong and Jeongbang-dong. The department store has more expensive and name-brand merchandise. The rest of the Maeil Market is bustling with small vendors selling their wares on the street. Most of them specialize in women's clothing.

More diverse and unpredictable are the O-il Jang ("5-Day" Markets), which happen every 5 days (of course) in fixed locations throughout the island. There are markets in Jeju city, Seogwipo, Hallim, Jungmoon, Sehwa, Hamdeok, Goseong, Daejeong, Seongsan, and Yeoseon. They sell everything from seafood, agricultural goods (such as Jeju's famous mandarins when they are in season), clothes, and household goods.

For inexpensive and large-scale shopping, try the Hanaro Mart in Seogwipo or the E-Mart in Tap-dong.

The main tourist district in Jeju-si is Tap-dong-lo (Tap-dong St.), which starts near Jeju port. You can enjoy a late dinner, shop the night street vendors, ride the handful of amusement park rides at Topland Amusement Park, or just walk along the boardwalk. Many bars and places in the area stay open until 4am.

Other than that, most of Jeju-si's bars are located in the "old city" near city hall. This is where the young college kids and Jeju-do's English teachers hang out.

In Seogwipo, the nightlife is centered around the luxury hotels and resorts. The Jungmun Tourist Complex has a bunch of upscale hotel lounges and karaoke bars. Also, many major hotels have casinos.

Casinos

Many of Jeju-do's luxury hotels have casinos, which are open 24/7 to visitors only, so don't forget to take your passport. Hotels in Jeju-si, which have casinos, include the Hyatt, Jeju KAL, the Jeju Oriental, Crowne Plaza, and the Paradise. In Seogwipo, the Jeju Shilla and the Lotte are the only hotels with casinos.

Bars

Jeju City -- Several small pubs line the streets in the "old city" opposite Jeju's City Hall. A fun bar in the area that's friendly to women is the Bull's Darts (tel. 064/759-5559; www.dartskorea.co.kr), whose founder runs a monthly women's darts league. Games start at W500 and cocktails are W7,000. Open at 7am daily, it closes at 4am on weekdays and stays open an extra wee hour on weekends. To get to this underground bar, head down the street to the left of Holly's Coffee Shop and take the first right. Walk to the building with the flashy neon lights, and then head down the stairs on the far left of the building.

One of the few places in the country where you can get a genuinely good beer is at Modern Time (tel. 064/748-4180), a microbrew run by a German-Spaniard and his Korean nephew, which is located in ShinJeju, about a block from the Jeju Grand Hotel. It's located on the second floor -- you can't miss their large sign and stainless steel brew tanks, visible from the window. Open daily noon to 2am.

The flashiest club in Jeju-do (if not all of South Korea) is the Jeju Aroma Super Dome Nightclub (tel. 064/749-8990), a four-story extravaganza with Vegas-like performers, DJs, bands, and 100 private "booking" rooms (for those on blind dates set up by "booking" agents). Best to go with a group and get a set drink/anju (drinking snacks) menu (for example, a plate of fruit and three bottles of beer for W50,000). Open daily 7pm to 2am (the dome opens up nightly at 10:30pm and 1:30am, and one extra time on summer nights).

Seogwipo City -- Seogwipo's nightlife is mostly found in the luxury hotels in the Jungmun resort complex. One of the more relaxed is the Ollae Library Bar at the Shilla Hotel, with jazz music and an upscale atmosphere, or the lobby lounge at the Shilla, which is popular for people-watching. You can belt out a song at the J3 Karaoke Bar or have a mixed cocktail in the Island Lounge of the Hyatt Regency.

For those missing a hamburger or fish and chips, Seoul's famed Gecko's (tel. 064/739-0845; www.geckosterrace.com; 2156-3 beonji, Saekdal-dong, Seogwipo-si) now runs a location just outside the Jungmun resort complex in Seogwipo. Play a round of pool or darts while you enjoy a beer on tap. Open daily noon to 2am.