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Outside the major cities and tourist areas, you can find low-cost sleeping quarters in minbak everywhere. In low season, costs range from W20,000 to W30,000, but prices can double during popular summer months. Although you can make reservations in advance for some of the upper-end resorts and condos, you'll sometimes get better rates if you just walk in, especially on weekdays and during the low season.

In the Haenam area, there are plenty of low- to midpriced motels. Some love motels like the Sapphire Motel (tel. 061/537-4825) and Motel Tiffany (tel. 061/537-0080) offer Internet access. The Ddang-ggeut Tema Pakeuh (tel. 061/535-1000), shaped like one of General Yi's turtle ships, is a midpriced option in the area. Double/single rooms cost W48,000 on weekdays.

For a taste of history, stay at the Yuseongwan, 799 Gurim-li, Samsan-myeon, Haenam-gun (tel. 061/534-2959), which has been a yeogwan since 1914, but is located in a 400-year-old home. Room rates range from W30,000 to W120,000, depending on the size of the room. There are no televisions or refrigerators, but there are shared shower facilities and a generous, home-cooked meal for only W7,000 for breakfast (W10,000 for dinner).

Most first-class hotels can be found in the Jirisan area or near beaches. One nice place is the Jirisan (Chirisan) Plaza Hotel, 32-1 Hwangjun-li, Masan-myeon, Gurye-gun (tel. 061/782-2171; fax 061/782-3675), with rack rates starting at W180,000. A slightly better bargain with nicer rooms is the Jirisan Swiss Tourist Hotel, 427-1 Hwangjeon-li, Masan-myeon, Gurye-gun (tel. 061/783-0156 or 7; fax 061/782-1571).

A nice option in Mokpo is the Shinan Beach Hotel, 440-4 Jukyong-dong, Mokpo-si (tel. 061/243-3399; fax 061/243-0030), with rates starting at W100,000 for a standard room. It's an additional W20,000 for an ocean view. Probably the best in town is the Hyundai Mokpo, 1237-6 Sampo-li, Samho-eup, Youngam-gun (tel. 061/463-2233; fax 061/469-5000), with rates starting at W157,000 for a standard room. Another newer hotel is the Shangria Beach Hotel, 1144-7 Sangdong, Mokpo-si (tel. 061/285-0100; fax 061/285-0101).

Another good option is the Wolchulsan Hot Springs Tourist Hotel, 6-10 Haechang-li, Gunsan-myeon, Yeongam-gun (tel. 061/473-6311), with rack rates starting at W120,000.

An excellent place to stay in Jeung-do is the El Dorado Resort, 233-42 Ujeon-li, Jeungdo-myeon, Shinan-gun, Jeollanam-do (tel. 061/260-3300; www.eldoradoresort.co.kr). This upscale set of "villas" is set on a small peninsula, so every one of them has an ocean view. Breakfast and use of their seawater spa and sauna are included in the room rates, which range from W206,000 for a double to W631,000 for a six-person villa. Sign up on their website and get a discount.

Note: This information was accurate when it was published, but can change without notice. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.