Restaurants in Jerez de la Frontera

For traditional fried fish, head to the immaculately run Freiduria Gallega El Nuevo Jerezano, Calle Arcos, 5 (tel. 68-253-56-00), operating since 1934. It’s more takeaway than restaurant—but you can stand at the counter and attack mounds of vinegary, battered fish and squid sold by weight and served on a sheet of greaseproof paper.

For a simple breakfast of coffee, orange juice, and toast with olive oil and tomato, La Moderna, Calle Larga, 67 (tel. 95-632-13-79), is a lovely old intellectual café with on poles, antique sherry ads, and a wooden fridge. It must have been modern once.

There are plenty of ice cream parlors in town, none more architecturally interesting than Rosa d’Oro, Calle Consistorio, 5–7 (tel. 95-633-84-08), where the counter is built into the old city walls which run like raspberry ripple through the shop.