Things To Do in Jerez de la Frontera

The Plaza de Arenal isn’t one of Spain’s more captivating squares, but it is the heart of the town where the city’s winding, cobbled streets eventually lead. Tour groups and friends tend to meet under the equestrian statue of the 1920s dictator and son of Jerez, Miguel Primo de Rivera (1870–1930), for whom some locals still have a sneaking regard. The plaza’s cafés are okay for a cooling drink, but you can do better nearby (see Touring the tabancos, below).

If you’ve come this far, chances are you’ll want to get straight to the sherry houses. There are scores of bodegas all over town and almost all of them offer tours and tastings. Some are a little sniffy about the gigantic Gonzalez Byass winery in the center of town where the ubiquitous Tío Pepe is made, but a visit to Jerez without calling on this famous bodega would be a bit like going to Venice and ignoring the canals. It’s a short walk, signposted from the Plaza del Arenal. The cathedral and Alcázar stand soberly nearby.

On a typical visit, you'll be shown through several buildings in which sherry and brandy are manufactured. In one building you'll see grapes being pressed and sorted; in another, the bottling process; in a third, thousands of large oak casks. Then it's on to an attractive bar where sherries -- amber, dark gold, cream, red, sweet, and velvety -- can be sampled. If offered, try the very dry La Ina sherry or the Fundador brandy, one of the most popular in the world. Warning: These drinks are more potent than you might expect.

The Story of Sherry

They’ve been making wine in and around Jerez for some 3,000 years, since the Phoenicians first brought vines to the region. The city’s Moorish name was Sherish, from which the names of both Jerez and sherry derive.

The fortified wine is made from two white grape varieties—Palomino Fino and Pedro Ximénez—and to be called sherry it must be produced within the wine region loosely bordered by Jerez, Sanlúcar de Barrameda, and El Puerto de Santa Maria. The dry, chalky soil known as albariza and the way the wine is made, combine to make sherry distinctive.

Central to the aging process is the solera system, which ensures quality and consistency. The wine is aged in three rows of stacked barrels. The top row contains the youngest wine, which is blended with that in the barrels below to produce the finished article, drawn from the bottom row. Most sherry has no vintage—each bottle contains wine from several different years.

A bodega tasting tour lets you appreciate the different styles. Fino is pale and fresh, protected by a yeasty froth called flor that forms on top of the wine in the barrel. Amontillado is a fino that has been exposed to oxygen, giving it a toffee color and nutty character. Palo Cortado is a rarity that starts as fino, then mysteriously loses its flor. Its name means “broken stick”—the symbol chalked on the barrel when that process occurs. Oloroso is a darker and richer style upon which flor doesn’t develop because more alcohol has been added. These wines are naturally very dry. Sweeter styles are made by adding sweet wine or must. Cream is the medium sweet blend traditionally favored by the British, while Pedro Ximénez is the sweetest of all, a dark, raisiny syrup.

Sherry’s international appeal owes much to Sir Francis Drake. When he destroyed the Spanish fleet at Cádiz in 1587, he made off with 2,900 barrels of sherry, sparking a British love affair with the drink. Once associated with elderly aunts, sherry is enjoying a renaissance, but take care when tasting. All sherry is significantly stronger than table wine, ranging from 15% to 22% alcohol.

Jerez is not surrounded by vineyards as you might expect. Instead, the vineyards are to the north and west in the "Sherry Triangle" marked by Jerez, Sanlúcar de Barrameda, and El Puerto de Santa María (the latter two towns are on the coast). This is where top-quality albariza soil is found; the highest quality contains an average of 60% chalk, which is ideal for the cultivation of grapes used in sherry production, principally the white Palomino de Jerez.

A great way to combine the joys of sherry and flamenco is to go on the tabanco trail. Tabancos originated in Jerez as kiosks with sherry barrels where workers could pick up supplies on their way home. The name is probably a fusing of estanco (government-run shop), and tabaco (tobacco). Over time they developed into tiny meeting places with simple food and impromptu music. Not so long ago they were in danger of extinction, but today they’re back in fashion and dozens have popped up around the old town. There’s even an official Ruta de los Tabancos.

Which is best? For passionate flamenco, excellent tapas (try chicharrones, thinly sliced pork belly served on waxed paper), and great-value sherry from the barrel, it’s hard to beat Tabanco El Pasaje. Calle Santa Maria, 8 (tel. 95-633-33-59), where the Modernista tiled entrance is another treat. But why stop there? Continue your tour with bullfight-themed Tabanco Las Banderillas, Calle Caballeros, 12 (tel. 61-900-69-88), Tabanco San Pablo, Calle San Pablo, 12, (tel. 65-416-93-25) run by the same family since 1934, and for raucous flamenco in a stripped-back setting, Tabanco a la Feria, Calle Armas, 5 (tel. 66-347-65-42).

A great way to start your evening is with local sherry and the best tapas in town at Las Botas, Santo Domingo 13 (tel. 95-633-89-77). In business since the mid-1970s, it offers a delectable display of food, including Spanish tortillas (thick omelets with layers of potato), cured hams, regional cheese, mushrooms, and shrimp or bull meat marinated in sherry. Plates cost from 5€ to 8€ ($8-$13). It's open Monday to Saturday noon to 5pm and 8pm to 1am.

Only 3 blocks from Plaza del Arenal, Bar Alegría, Calle Corredera 30 (tel. 95-633-80-70), is patronized by savvy locals. We would come just for the croquetas de pollo (chicken croquettes), the best in the city. A friendly crowd, often young, congregates here at night. Tapas sell for 1.50€ ($2.40) and up, raciones (servings) for 6€ ($9.60). Open Monday to Saturday 8am to 11pm.

Jerez is known for its flamenco. The best shows -- very untouristy -- are at El Lagá de Tío Parrilla, Plaza del Mercado (tel. 95-633-83-34). Monday-to-Saturday shows begin at 10:30pm and 12:30am. The cover of 12€ ($19) includes the first drink, and reservations are suggested.