Linz is world famous for the Linzer torte, which looks like an open jam pie. The torte is filled mainly with raspberry jam or preserves, while the batter, made in part from ground unblanched almonds, is flavored with cinnamon, cloves, and cocoa. The treat is cut in thin wedges and sprinkled with confectioners' sugar. You shouldn't leave Linz without trying a piece.

Café am Park, in the Hotel Schillerpark, Rainerstrasse 2-4 (tel. 0732/6950; tram: 1 or 3), is the hottest and most popular place to go on a Sunday afternoon in Linz. It's a big L-shape room redecorated in 1994 in a streamlined modern style. You can get all the beverages and light snacks you'd expect, as well as wholesome meals priced from 8.50€ to 15€ ($14-$24). It's open daily 6:30am to 11pm.

Café Traxlmayr, Promenade 16 (tel. 0732/773353; www.traxlmayr.at; bus: 26 or 27), has an amazing pre-World War I mystique. This 150-year-old coffeehouse is next to a baroque palace on a wide ornamental boulevard, in a beige-and-brown building. Its outdoor sun terrace is lined with thick privets and geraniums. It even has a fountain in front, designed to resemble a little boy playing with two gurgling fish. Inside, the formally dressed staff scurry around with trays of coffee and cakes. The decor includes 1890s-style round marble tables, big mirrors, and crystal-and-gilt chandeliers. A rack of Austrian and foreign-language newspapers gives this place all the trappings of a Viennese coffeehouse. During cold weather, hot dishes, such as goulash, are served. Elaborate pastries are priced from 3.50€ ($5.60); coffee starts at 3€ ($4.80). It's open Monday to Saturday 10am to 8pm, Sunday 10am to 6pm.

Note: This information was accurate when it was published, but can change without notice. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.