Hotels in Ljubljana

Very Expensive -- If you choose to research further you may come across the city's most expensive and, arguably, most glamorous hotel, Lev (www.hotel-lev.si), but note that it suffers from an alarming location on a busy central intersection and, frankly, is soulless.

Moderate -- If you don't mind being out of the center, an alternative with a slick, contemporary design is AHotel, Cesta dveh cesarjev 34D, 1000 Ljubljana (tel. 01/429-1892; www.ahotel.si), a brand-new hotel (opened in 2008) located south of the city in Trnovo, a pleasant, upmarket suburb. There are just 26 ultraminimalist rooms, where the lack of amenities and in-room comforts reminds you that you should be out exploring the city and dipping into its vibrant riverside cafe culture. Breakfast is served, and while there's an outdoor terrace, and a lounge-bar done out in attractive wickerwork armchairs, there are few other amenities to distract you from the pressing matter of exploring the city. Doubles go for 125€ to 130€ ($159-$165).

Inexpensive -- Located in the Metelkova precinct, an area in the old part of town that is experiencing progressive urban renewal and a heady nightlife, Hostel Celica (tel. 01/230-9700; www.hostelcelica.com; 16€-27€/$20-$34 per bed) offers a novel stay in what was once part of the barracks of the JNA (Yugoslav People's Army); the most celebrated rooms are converted prison cells (46€-54€/$58-$69 double), given a design makeover by a number of invited Slovene artists. You pay for the level of privacy that you enjoy: First-floor dorms have facilities shared by 40 people, while on the second floor there's one bathroom per dorm. Breakfasts are a touch better than the usual hostel fare, and linens and towels are provided free of charge. There's a self-service laundry, free Internet, and an on-site tourist agency that organizes trips through the city and throughout Slovenia.