Things To Do in Ljubljana

If you don't dally in the art galleries, you could see the whole of the city in a single day, starting at Ljubljana's Castle, which overlooks the entire city. The best buildings are in and around the finely preserved Old Town, a fine mixture of baroque, Secessionist, and neoclassical buildings around a curve in the River Ljubljanica, and heavily beefed up by the city's designer laureate, Joze Plecnik. Life proceeds at a gentle, lively pace along and around the Lubljanica, defined by its cafe and bar culture, and the bridges linking the two banks.

A good place to find your bearings is Presernov Square, centered on the statue of France Preseren (1800-49), considered the "Father of the Nation," and the poet whose words are now the national anthem ("A Toast"). Take a seat under the eye-catching statue of Preseren, and you could spend hours watching the constant ebb and flow of people. Also here is Centromerkur, marked by an Art Nouveau awning over the entrance; this is Ljubljana's oldest department store, in a gorgeous Secessionist building, Urbanc House, dating from 1903. This is roughly the heart of the Old Town, where young people meet to start their day (often on the steps of the looming Franciscan Church), or the night -- often heading one way or another across Triple Bridge (Tromostovje) to get to their favorite riverside drinking spot. Across Triple Bridge you can take a left turn (at the Tourist Information Center) to reach the colonnaded covered promenade of the daily crafts market; alternatively, after crossing the bridge, continue on Stritarjeva, where you soon hit Mestni trg, marked by the beautifully remodeled Robba's Fountain (Robbov Vodnjak), originally completed in 1751 and celebrating the confluence of the three Carniolan rivers (the Ljubljanica, the Sava, and the Krka). The fountain is just in front of the Town Hall (Magistrat), which you can visit for free; exhibitions are occasionally held in the interior courtyard. Medieval Mestni trg is a defining part of Old Town, as is Old Square (Stari trg) at its southern, narrowing end. Together, Mestni, and Stari squares form a lively pedestrian cobblestone avenue lined with shops, restaurants, and cafes, and culminating with the massive early-17th-century St. James' Church.

As Mestni trg curves east, you'll notice the looming Cathedral of St. Nicholas, an important religious building in the baroque style, defined by its high dome and massive bell towers. Started in 1701, the cathedral was designed by Andrea Pozzo; its interiors are famous for frescoes by Quaglio, depicting miraculous moments in the life of St. Nicholas, the patron saint of all seafaring people. Worth a look are the bronze sculpted church doors, added for the 1996 visit of Pope John Paul II (whose image can be seen looking over the history of Slovene Christianity on the main doors).

Adjacent the cathedral is the Market, another of Plecnik's designs. Just north of the market, crossing the Ljubljanica out of Old Town, is Dragon's Bridge (Zmajski Most); designed by Jurij Zaninovich and completed in 1901, four fabulously sculpted dragons adorn each corner of the bridge. Legend states that the dragons wag their tails in the unlikely event of an old virgin crossing the bridge. Just beyond the bridge, if you head east along Trubarjeva cesta, you'll encounter a distinctive student culture, with a succession of cheap cafes, adventure companies, and New Age shops such as the hemp-based cosmetics outfit, Extravaganja. Turn off Trubarjeva into Vidovdanska cesta, which soon gives way to interesting Metelkova, an area experiencing progressive urban renewal and a heady nightlife. Formerly the barracks of the JNA (Yugoslav People's Army), the buildings that comprise the Metelkova project have been reclaimed to serve as a center of alternative youth and student culture; this is steadily being transformed into Ljubljana's expanding museum quarter. The project has long been famous thanks to Celica, a prison-turned-hostel, known for its artistically renovated cells; nonresidents can call tel. 01/430-1890 to arrange a visit.

Near the Celica is Metelkova's highbrow Slovene Ethnographic Museum, Metelkova 2 (tel. 01/300-8700; www.etno-muzej.si), which sheds light on the relationship between humankind and the multitudinous objects that make up our world, be they part of survival, evolution, or everyday existence. You can join the pottery workshops that are held in the trendy-looking studio near the entrance. Or, better still, grab a drink at the cool cafe-bar (called S.E.M.) at the entrance.

Back in Old Town, on the western side of the river, Congress Square (Kongresni trg) is a fine urban park named in honor of the Congress of the Holy Alliance, for which it was laid out in 1821. Of note around the square are the Ursuline Church (1726), the Kazina (a 19th-c. establishment hangout), the fin de siècle University building, and the contemporaneous Slovene Philharmonic Hall (Slovenska filharmonija), which is the headquarters of the country's celebrated Philharmonic Orchestra, which traces its roots to the 1701 Academia Philharmonicorum, making it one of the world's oldest music societies.

Vegova ulica runs south from Kongresni trg, passing the National and University Library, and terminating at the 1929 Illyrian Monument (another of Plecnik's contributions), which marks French Revolution Square (Trg Francoske revolucije). Here, if you're interested to learn much more about the history of the city, you should take time out to visit the recently reopened City Museum of Ljubljana, Gosposka 15 (tel. 01/241-2500; www.mestnimuzej.si; Tues-Sun 10am-6pm). This is also where you'll find the Krizanke Summer Theater; formerly the Monastery of the Holy Cross, it's now an outdoor theater venue used during the Ljubljana Summer Festival. The complex was redesigned by Plecnik in the 1950s.

Stretching past the open end of Kongresni trg is Slovenska cesta, the city's main road. Just north of the square is the "famous" Neboticnik "skyscraper." Designed by Vladimir Subic, this is the "Rockefeller Center of the Balkans." Commissioned in the 1930s, it was then Europe's tallest residential building. Sadly, in recent years it became Ljubljana's favorite suicide spot, prompting the closure of the upper level to allow for the building of a protective fence around the top-floor perimeter.

West of Slovenska cesta is the gorgeous Opera House, along Cankarjeva cesta; it was built in the neo-Renaissance style in 1892, and is worth seeing just for the loveliness of its facade, although it'll be undergoing renovation until around mid-2009. Farther west, on Presernova cesta, are the two main art galleries, and Tivoli Park, where you can visit the International Center of Graphic Arts, Pod turnom 3 (tel. 01/241-3800; www.mglc-lj.si), occupying mansionlike Tivoli Castle (it's a 10-min. walk from Old Town, or you can hop on a bus to Hala Tivoli). The Center hosts excellent temporary programs with diverse themes, from street art and film and theater costumes, to amazing record cover designs. Also in the park is Ljubljana's National Museum of Contemporary History, Celovska cesta 23 (tel. 01/300-9610; www.muzej-nz.si), which makes for a possible diversion; exhibits highlight significant moments from 20th-century Slovenia.

Back near the Opera House the National Museum, Muzejska ulica 1 (tel. 01/241-4400; www.narmuz-lj.si; Fri-Wed 10am-6pm, Thurs 10am-8pm), where the prize possessions include Slovenia's oldest discovered artwork (a 5th-century-B.C. Iron Age bronze urn known as the Vace Situla), the world's oldest wheel, and the earliest musical instrument. The museum occupies a neo-Renaissance palace built in 1883 to 1885; in the same building is the Museum of Natural History.

Just south of the museum building is Trg Republike, an unattractive square where concrete blocks hide Cankarjev Dom, a major space for cultural events and exhibitions. Also here is the Parliament, marked by an interesting sculpted relief around the entrance; the figures represent different aspects of social and industrial life.

Farther south of the center is the residential suburb of Trnovo, with a small, burgeoning cafe culture that attracts a mixed crowd; it's also where you'll find Plecnik's House, behind Trnovo Church at Karunova ulica 4 (tel. 01/540-0346; www.aml.si; Tues-Thurs 10am-6pm and Sat 9am-3pm).

Antiques -- Ljubljana's antique flea market unleashes its collectibles on the world every Sunday until 1pm. Strung along the edge of the Ljubljanica from the Triple Bridge as far south as it needs to go, it's a cornucopia of bright and faded memories, including some genuine treasures. It's also a great place to meet locals. Along Trubarjeva cesta, the one shop worth visiting is Carniola Antiqua (tel. 01/231-6397), which carries Slovene art, antiques, assorted historic memorabilia and potentially classy retro gear displayed in a stylish manner that includes clever little museumlike window displays.

Art & Images -- Exquisite photographs and photographic books are sold at Galerija Fotografija, Mestni trg 8 (tel. 01/251-1529; www.galerijafotografija.si), which also hosts impressive exhibitions of international photographic work. Peruse and shop for paintings by Slovene artists at Galerija Hest, Zidovska 8 (tel. 01/422-0000; www.galerijahest-sp.si). Art.si, Zidovska 5 (tel. 01/421-0123; e-mail art.si@lala.si), is the gallery of Andris Vitlins, which sells bright contemporary paintings.

Books -- Two of the finest bookstores in the country are Azil, Novi trg 2 tel. (01/470-6438; http://azil.zrc-sazu.si), with an astonishing selection of books dealing with philosophy, art, film, and Slovenia; and Knjigarna Behemot, Zidovska steva 3 (tel. 01/251-1392; www.behemot.si). Architecture buffs should pick up the excellent Architectural Guide to Ljubljana by Andrej Hrausky and Janez Kozelj; it features images and commentary on 107 buildings in the city. You'll find it at Darila Rokus Gifts, Gosposvetska Cesta 2 (tel. 01/234-9720; www.darila.com), also good for other books on Slovenia and its culture.

Glass & Porcelain -- Rogaska crystal is amongst the few brands for which Slovenia is internationally known, and there's finally an outlet in the capital. You'll find Rogaska, Mestni trg 22 (tel. 01/241-2701; www.steklarna-rogaska.si), with its opulent glassware, opposite the Town Hall. Among the rash of touristy paraphernalia at Darila Rokus, you'll find the distinctive "Janus" crystal wine-cum-coffee glass sets, which make lovely gifts. At Galerija Marjan Lovsin, Breg 8 (tel. 01/426-0402; www.marjanlovsin.com), you can buy vases by Tanja Pak, who hails from a family of glassblowers, and is known for her distinctive "Drops" design. Slovenia's foremost porcelain artists, Katja Jurgen Bricman and Jure Bricman, are known for having had their unusual and unique porcelain jewelry modeled by Miss Slovenia in 2003. They have a gallery near Robba Fountain. Porcelain Catbriyur, Ciril-Metodov Trg 19 (tel. 041-499-528; www.catbriyur.net), carries an exclusive range of porcelain cups, bowls, and jewelry.

Homeware & Furniture -- To ogle Slovene style, visit Nova, Levstikov Trg 7 (tel. 01/426-0410; www.nova-on.net), an inspirational furniture store and lovely nursery. You'll find gorgeous European-design homeware, ornaments, and simple furniture at DOM Design, Stefanova 6 (tel. 01/244-3460; www.domdesign.si).

Fashion -- For the best in Slovenian designer wear, head to Oktober, Tobacna ulica 5 (tel. 01/425-4068). Alternatively, Pletilni Studio Draz, Gornji Trg 9 (tel. 01/426-6041), is a great little boutique promoting a number of emerging Slovene fashion designers. Katarina Silk, Gorni trg 5, next door to Antiq Hotel, deals in stylish silk garments.

Foodstuffs -- Showcasing produce from the Karst region, Krasevka, Ciril Metodov Trg 10 (tel. 01/232-1445; www.krasevka.si), is a great place to stock up on organic cheeses, olives oil, stuffed olives, cured meats, honey, dried mushrooms, teas, herbs, and plum brandy.

Shoes & Accessories -- Accessorize with a fashionable handmade handbag by award-winning Marjeta Groselj, Tavcarjeva ulica 4 (tel. 01/231-8984). For eccentric shoes and boots with fancy buckles and interesting decorative motifs, you can't beat the idiosyncratic footwear made and sold at Obulalnica Butanoga, Levstikov Trg 8 (tel. 01/425-9888 or 041-334-701; www.butanoga.org), a little cobbler's boutique hidden down an alleyway off Levstikov trg; look for the hanging signboard across from St. James's Church.

Wine -- Pick up wine from Slovenia's top-rated Movia Estate (owned by Mirko and Ales Kristancic) at Vinoteka Movia, Mestni Trg 2 (tel. 01/425-5448); the intimate wine cellar is not only a sales point, but an excellent place for tastings, accompanied by an informative pitch. For a wider range of vintages from all of Slovenia's wine-growing regions, visit Dvor, Dvorni trg 2 (tel. 01/251-1257).

Live Music, Theater & Opera

The performing arts are very much alive in the capital, and in summer there is likely to be street theater, especially in and around Old Town -- keep eyes and ears pealed. For cutting-edge productions look out for shows conceived by Draga Zivadinov, the native Ljubljaniker responsible for staging the world's first theatrical production in a weightless environment, somewhere far above Russia.

Theatergoers should make every effort to catch a show at the beautifully designed Slovene National Opera and Ballet Theater, Zupanciceva 1 (tel. 01/241-1700; www.opera.si); performances by its 117-year-old resident company are critically acclaimed (box office tel. 01/241-1764). You can also ask about plans for the new, modern opera house, to be built in the next few years.

During the famous Ljubljana Summer Festival (tel. 01/241-6000; www.ljubljanafestival.si), performances of all kinds -- film, theater, jazz, chamber music, opera, ballet, symphony concerts, theater, puppetry -- are held in venues around the city. Main venues are Ljubljana Castle, and the Krizanke Summer Theater, Trg Francoske Revolucije 1. Krizanke is also the venue for Druga Godba, literally "the Other Music," an alternative music festival held in late May; and in late June, it hosts the Ljubljana Jazz Festival.

Classical music fans should attend a performance of the Slovene Philharmonic, which enjoys a proud 307-year musical tradition; performances are held at the Philharmonic Hall, Kongresni trg (tel. 01/241-0800). Look out for straight theater and musicals at the Slovene National Theater, Narodno Gledalisce, Erjavceva 1 (tel. 01/252-1511), although the modern Cankarjev Dom, Trg Republike (tel. 241-7299; www.cd-cc.si), is now the main venue for stage productions.

You can catch live music spilling out from the terrace of one of the popular cafe-bars at Triple Bridge, nightly in summer; a fun crowd gathers to take in the free entertainment. If you'd like to get a taste of Slovenia's alternative music scene, find out what's happening in the Metelkova cultural precinct; start your investigation at any of the Tourist Information offices, or simply wander along Trubarjeva cesta and pop your head into any of the trendy-looking stores, or you can opt to inquire at the Celica Youth Hostel.

Bars & Clubs

You could spend days just cruising for your favorite place to drink; virtually all of these establishments are cafe-bar hangouts equally good for coffee, beer, wine, and cocktails. Some also serve ice cream in summer (Cacao, on the water's edge at Presernov Square, is a favorite). Many places also carry light meals, so you can forgo restaurants entirely if you're in a party mood.

Drinking along the Ljubljanica is the most popular activity in town, and Macek, Krojaska ulica 5 (tel. 01/425-3791), inexplicably obsessed with pussycats, has long been the favored people-watching haunt. Still, there are some sexy alternatives, like Fétiche Bar, Stari trg 25 (tel. 040-700-370), which scores high points for its dramatic interior decor and dark, broody design, complete with provocative poster-size images of models most of the clientele aspires to be. Electronic vibes set a relaxed mood at Salon, Trubarjeva 23 (tel. 01/439-8760), a fun lounge bar with a distinctly shagadelic look -- padded walls, plush sofas, gold drapes, and dazzling mirror-ball effect behind the small bar; you'll need to dress for success. Each summer, the garden of the Writer's Society (behind the opera house) hosts Jazz Club Gajo, Beethovnova 8 (tel. 01/425-3206; www.jazzclubgajo.com), where you can sit under the trees, or sip your drink in a hammock.

The only real club in the center is Bachus, Kongresni trg 3 (tel. 01/241-8244; www.bachus-center.com), and it draws a mixed crowd to its late nights of DJ-fueled fun, making this arguably Ljubljana's hippest discothèque.