Things To Do in Lower Keys

Once the centerpiece (these days, it’s Big Pine Key) of the Lower Keys and still a great asset, Bahia Honda State Park, U.S. 1 at MM 37.5, Big Pine Key (tel. 305/872-2353), has one of the most beautiful coastlines in South Florida. Bahia (pronounced Bah-ya) Honda is a great place for hiking, bird-watching, swimming, snorkeling, and fishing. The 524-acre park encompasses a wide variety of ecosystems, including coastal mangroves, beach dunes, and tropical hammocks. There are miles of trails packed with unusual plants and animals, plus a small white-sand beach. Shaded seaside picnic areas are fitted with tables and grills. Although the beach is never wider than 5 feet, even at low tide, this is the Lower Keys’ best beach area.

True to its name (Spanish for "deep bay"), the park has relatively deep waters close to shore—perfect for snorkeling and diving. Easy offshore snorkeling here gives even novices a chance to lie suspended in warm water and simply observe diverse marine life passing by. Or else head to the stunning reefs at Looe Key, where the coral and fish are more vibrant than anywhere else in the United States. Snorkeling trips go from the Bahia Honda concessions to Looe Key National Marine Sanctuary (4 miles offshore). They depart twice daily (9:30am and 1:30pm) March through September and cost $30 for adults, $25 for children 6 to 17, and $12.95 for mask, fin and snorkel rental.

Entry to the park is $8 per vehicle of two to eight passengers, $4 for a solo passenger, $2 per pedestrian or bicyclist, free for children 5 and under, with a 50 cents-per-person Monroe County Surcharge. Open daily from 8am to sunset.

The most famous residents of the Lower Keys are the tiny Key deer. Of the estimated 300 existing in the world, two-thirds live on Big Pine Key’s National Key Deer Refuge/Floria Keys National Wild Life Refuge, 30587 Overseas Hwy, (tel. 305/872-0774). The refuge is also home to over 20 endangered and threatened plant and animal species. The helpful people at the nature center will give you an informative brochure and map of the area. Some of the refuge is paved, some is more rustic, so wear sturdy shoes. Also keep an eye out for snakes, crocodiles, and alligators—sightings of which are very rare, but they are in there. The refuge is open daily at a half hour prior to sunrise and closes a half hour after sunset.

If the nature center is closed, head out to the Blue Hole, a former quarry now filled with the fresh water that’s vital to the deer’s survival. To get there, turn right at Big Pine Key’s only traffic light at Key Deer Boulevard (take the left fork immediately after the turn) and continue 1.5 miles to the observation-site parking lot, on your left. The .5-mile Watson Hammock Trail, about 1/3 mile past the Blue Hole, is the refuge’s only marked footpath. The deer are more active in cool hours, so try coming out to the path in the early morning or late evening to catch a glimpse of these gentle dog-size creatures. There is an observation deck from which you can watch and photograph the protected species. Refuge lands are open daily from a half-hour before sunrise to a half-hour after sunset. Don’t be surprised to see a lazy alligator warming itself in the sun, particularly in outlying areas around the Blue Hole. If you do see a gator, do not go near it, do not touch it, and do not provoke it. If you must get a photo, use a zoom lens. Also, whatever you do, do not feed the deer—it will threaten their survival. Contact the park office (see above) to find out about the infrequent free tours of the refuge, scheduled throughout the year.