Stepping into this 12th-century palace tucked into medieval streets feels a bit like walking onto a regal operatic stage set, and the feeling certainly doesn’t let up as you settle in amidst gilded and polished wood, reproduction antiques, old prints, and plush fabrics. You might have putti (cherubs) grinning down on your from the frescoed ceiling, but marble baths, Jacuzzi tubs in some rooms, excellent beds and fine linens, and other amenities are thoroughly up to date. The good-sized rooms are named after Puccini operas, and some of the especially charming suites have vaulted and beamed ceilings reminiscent of Rodolfo’s La Bohème garret—well, that is, if the young poet had lived very, very well, which you will in this quirkily stylish little inn where service is as memorable as the surroundings.