Hotels in Mandu

While there are basic lodgings in Mandu, we highly recommend a stay at Ahilya Fort, a fantastic destination in itself, situated on the Narmada River in the town of Maheshwar, some 91km (56 miles) from Indore. From either city, the journey to Mandu should take 2 1/2 hours. If you arrive in Indore too late to move on to Mandu or Maheshwar, you'll easily find a room in one of the city's standard business hotels; the best of these is Fortune Landmark (tel. 0731/398-8444; www.fortunehotels.com; from $90 double). The amenities and comforts here match those of any reasonable city hotel, and the surrounding lawns and gardens are lovely. If, however, you'd prefer a more personal experience, see if you can manage to stay at Rashid Kothi (22 Yeshwant Niwas Rd., Indore 452 003; tel. 0731/254-5060; ashanu@hotmail.com), a family home run by Anuradha Dubey and Arshad Rashid. Of the two rooms, one is a garden cottage; furnishings are comfortable and contain thoughtful touches that enhance the homely atmosphere. All meals (strictly vegetarian) are included in the room rate (Rs 5,500 single, Rs 10,000 double without air-conditioning).

If you decide to stay in Mandu itself, be prepared to rough it somewhat. Our first choice among the small selection of spartan lodgings is Hotel Rupmati (Mandu 454 010; tel. 07292/26-3270), a budget charmer with 12 simple rooms (from Rs 1,300 double). Close to the village bazaar on the edge of a cliff, the hotel enjoys great views. Guest rooms are in a long stone building; all are large with whitewashed walls and a thin, rock-hard mattress with white linens and a blanket (most also have A/C and a TV for double the price). The view can be enjoyed from a small private balcony. Attention has been paid to the grounds, which feature a children's play area, and the cleanliness and tranquillity of the place make up for the budget facilities.