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Caffè Modi

While a moody portrait of Amedeo Modigliani dominates the restaurant, Modi is a friendly stop on the tourist circuit around Piazza Sordello. Chill music, gramophones, and threadbare armchairs lend a bohemian charm to the place. The menu offers the usual lineup of local pasta dishes (like pumpkin tortellini in a butter sage sauce) along with insalatone (big salads), but it's all well presented and tasty. Concerts and recitals are held here from time to time. In warm weather, grab a table outside.