Europe / Italy / Tuscany and Umbria / Chianti / Massa Marittima / Best Restaurants

La Tana del Brillo Parlante

The instant the parchment "menu book" is presented to you with the reverence of a Bible, you know you're in for a dining treat. Massa's -- perhaps the Maremma's best restaurant -- is a tiny, four-table dining room with thoughtful country styling, complete with stripped brick walls, hessian table cloths, and water served in terra-cotta pots. The seasonal menu hosts plenty of familiar flavors, but they are combined with creativity and originality. A typical route through the menu might begin with crostini con lardo di Colonnata, followed by chicche al cinghiale (chestnut-flour gnocchi with a sauce made from boar marinated in red wine), then stinco di maiale sfumato alla birra (shin of pork stewed with herbs and beer). This is slow food, served with a flourish and not a hint of pretension.