Europe / Italy / Tuscany and Umbria / Chianti / Massa Marittima / Best Restaurants

Osteria da Tronca

This restaurant, known by most people simply as "l'osteria," is split-level medieval -- all stone walls, brick arches, and hand-hewn wood ceiling beams. An explanation of any dish begins "Oh, that's the way we make it." "We" seems to incorporate the jocular restaurateurs, the septuagenarian cook who steadfastly prepares food the way mamma taught her, and Massans in general. Kick off your meal with tortelli alla maremmana (ravioli stuffed with ricotta and Swiss chard in meaty ragù) or zuppa dell'Osteria (a cannellini bean and cabbage soup poured over toasted garlic bread). Follow with cinghiale alla cacciatore (wild boar huntsman style, stewed with mushrooms -- but no olives, which, they sniff, are only "for making oil") -- or an arista di maiale (slices of roast pork with potatoes).