Things To Do in Mazurian Lake District

Most visitors, largely made up of Poles and Germans, are here to enjoy nature and rural living while dabbling in sailing, fishing, kayaking, or cycling. There are plenty of cultural and historical attractions, but, truth be told, with the exception of the Wolf's Lair, not many would travel some 300km (186 miles) just to see the minor Gothic castles or baroque churches. Having said that, however, if you incorporate these minor attractions along with outdoor activities, or string them together as part of a drive in the countryside, they complement each other well as cultural interludes. If you are spending more time here, get a copy of Across the Land of Great Masurian Lakes, by Stanisaw Sieminski (20 z; available in tourist information centers), which details the region's history, canals, forests, and wildlife.

Fans of church organs should keep an eye out for the May to September performances in Swieta Lipka at the Church of Our Lady (Swieta Lipka; tel. 89/755-14-81; www.swlipka.org.pl). You can combine it with a trip to the Wolf's Lair.

There are numerous Gothic castles in this neck of the woods. The full series are listed on www.zamkigotyckie.org.pl. However, after seeing Malbork Castle, the samples here can come across as disappointingly dwarfish. The strongest selling point for the castle in Lidzbark Warminski is it's a well-preserved original, not reconstructed like most of the others. The town, 98km (61 miles) west of Gizycko, was captured by the Teutonic Knights in 1240. It became the command center of the Warmian Bishops (the religious and political leaders that depended on the Teutonic Knights for military protection), and the location where Copernicus drafted De Revolutionibus Orbium Coelestium. The interior houses the Museum of Warmia (Plac Zamkowy 1; tel. 89/767-21-11; www.muzeum.olsztyn.pl), which has filled the halls and chapels with medieval arts and paraphernalia related to Copernicus and the bishops. It's open from Tuesdays to Sundays from 9am to 4pm. To dig into the architectural details, it's worth getting a guide, but you will have to arrange it in advance since not much English is used here. At the time of publication, the castle has just started a renovation project, and part of the grounds is being converted into a hotel.

The Old Believers Monastery (Klasztor Starowierców; Wojnowo 76, Ukta; tel. 87/425-70-30; www.klasztor.com.pl) is mentioned in all the regional guides, but it's actually a very modest affair. It is mainly of interest to those tracing the roots of the Old Believers, a minority group that defied the reformations led by Patriarch Nikon for the Russian Orthodox Church in the mid-17th century. The last of the monastery's nuns passed away in 2006. The Orthodox chapel retains the golden religious icons, and behind the church, there is a small cemetery with three-bar crosses. If you're not driving, the best way to get here is by bike along the Green Route. Kayakers on the Krutynia Trail to Ukta can access the monastery by detouring to Lake Dus. A quick browse of the compound will take no more than 15 minutes. For a longer stay, literally, you can check into the rough and ready rooms (40 z per person) above the chapel.