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It’s difficult enough to get a table at this wonderful but understated place, which doesn’t take bookings for dinner, without encouraging more people to line up. But I’d be depriving you of a terrific night out if I kept quiet. So if you’re looking for somewhere that’s intimate, crowded, well run, and has superb but simple food, look no further than Cicciolina. Although you cannot book for dinner, there’s a waitlist after 6pm—first come, first served. You may have to wait for an hour or so for a table (have a drink in the Back Bar, and they’ll call you), but it will be worth it for delights such as a veal filet wrapped in pancetta, with a broad-bean purée, roasted beetroot, and a turnip soufflé, or—my favorite—an elegantly simple spaghettini tossed with spinach, chili, and oil.