Praise pours in from all quarters for this upscale restaurant just off Little Bourke Street, Chinatown’s main drag. Take a slow elevator up to the restaurant, which has widely spaced tables (perfect for politicians and businesspeople to clinch their deals). Take note of the specials—the chefs are extremely creative and use the best ingredients they find in the markets each day. A smart idea is to put your menu selections into the hands of the waiter. The signature dish is Peking duck. King crab dumplings in soup is a great starter, and you can also order more unusual dishes, such as abalone (at a price: A$145 per 100 grams). The atmosphere is clubby and a bit old-fashioned, but the service is beyond reproach. But be prepared to pay for the privilege.