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Though you’ll find plenty of Japanese sushi and noodle bars around Chinatown, there’s nothing quite like raw fish with a bit of panache. Koko’s decor is contemporary-traditional, with a goldfish pond in the center of the main dining room and wonderful views over the city. There are separate teppanyaki grills and screened tatami rooms where you sit on the matted floor. Koko has a vast and changing seasonal menu that includes lots of seafood dishes (think grilled lobster with sea urchin sauce), or you can opt for a set menu to take the agony out of choosing. A large selection of different sakes aids digestion.