Planning a trip to Merida, Spain

The slow state of Extremadura’s rail network has been a source of public anger for years, but things are gradually improving. There are four semi-fast trains a day from Madrid (3hr. 45 mins–4 hr. 20 mins; 25€–45€) and two direct but slow trains from Sevilla (around 3hr. 20 mins; 17€–20€). Trains arrive at the station on Calle Cardero (tel. 91-232-03-20), a 10-minute walk north of Plaza de España.

There are two buses a day from Madrid (around 5 hr.; 38€) operated by Avanza (tel. 92-437-14-04), six from Sevilla (3 hr.; 10€–18€) and eight from Cáceres (1 hr.; 7€) operated by Alsa (tel. 90-242-22-42) and Leda (tel 92-467-02-20). The bus station is on Avenida de la Libertad, a 15-minute walk across the river from Plaza de España.

By car, the A-5 Autovía from Madrid to Lisbon, Portugal passes through Mérida. The drive from Madrid is approximately 3 hr. 20 mins, from Lisbon about 4 hours. From Sevilla, the drive north on the A-66 takes about 2 hours. Ask your hotel about parking in the old town—most have an arrangement with a car park.

The main tourist office, next to the entrance to the Roman theaters on Plaza Margarita Xirgú, s/n (tel. 92-433-07-22), is open daily 9am‒6:30pm, until 8:30pm in summer.

During July and August, the Festival Internacional de Teatro Clásico de Mérida (tel. 92-400-94-80) presents classical plays and opera almost nightly at the Roman theater. Performances are in Spanish, but even if you don’t understand the language, the spectacular setting and lighting make it an unforgettable experience. Tickets can be booked on the website from 15€ to 50€.  For the stony cheaper seats, take a cushion.