This Modena lunch-only institution is a real experience and very popular -- get there early to avoid the long lines. Eccentric owner Ermes and his wife have been cooking up fresh food from the market for over 40 years here, chatting and offering advice and tips as they serve. There's no menu -- Ermes will just tell you what they have that day. Dishes might include fried cod, stuffed bell peppers, and simple tagliatelle with mushrooms or ragù. Help yourself to some Lambrusco from the fridge.