Planning a trip to Montreal

Orientation

City Layout

BASIC LAYOUT -- At the southern end of the city is Vieux-Port (along the St. Lawrence River) and Vieux-Montréal, or Old Montréal. Just north of Vieux-Montréal are Quartier International, where the convention center is located, and then Quartier des Spectacles, where Places des Arts (a complex of fine arts music halls) is located. Downtown is west of there, and the Plateau Mont-Royal is north.

The north-south artery boulevard St-Laurent (also known as The Main) serves as the line of demarcation between east and west Montréal. Most of the areas featured in this book lie west of boulevard St-Laurent.

In earlier days, Montréal was split geographically along cultural lines. English speakers lived mainly west of boulevard St-Laurent, while French speakers were concentrated to the east. Things still do sound more French as you walk east, as street names and Métro stations change from Peel and Atwater to Papineau and Beaudry.

In addition to the maps in this book, neighborhood street plans are available at www.tourisme-montreal.org and from the information centers listed above.

FINDING AN ADDRESS -- Boulevard St-Laurent, which runs from the south of the city up to the north, is the dividing point between east and west (est and ouest) in Montréal. Pay attention: Numbers go east and west in both directions. For east-west streets, the numbers start at St-Laurent and then get higher in both directions. That means, for instance, that the restaurants Chez l’Épicier, at 311 rue St-Paul est, and Marché de la Villette, at 324 rue St-Paul ouest, are 1km (about a half mile, or 13 short blocks) from each other—not directly across the street. Make sure you know if your address is east or west and confirm the cross street for all addresses.

There’s no equivalent division for north and south (nord and sud). Instead, the numbers start at the river and climb from there, just as the topography does.

Montréal: Where the Sun Rises in the South

For the duration of your visit to Montréal, you’ll need to accept local directional conventions, strange as they may seem. The boomerang- or croissant-shaped island city borders the St. Lawrence River, and as far as locals are concerned, the river is south, with the U.S. not far off on the other side. Never mind that the river, in fact, runs almost north and south at this section. Don’t fight it: Face the river. That’s south. Turn around. That’s north. Because of this convention, Montréal is the only city in the world where the sun rises in the south.

Directions given throughout the Montréal chapters conform to this local directional tradition. Prominent thoroughfares, such as rue Ste-Catherine and boulevard René-Lévesque, run “east” (est) and “west” (ouest). The dividing line is boulevard St-Laurent, which runs “north” and “south.” The maps in this book do have a true compass on them.

Entry Requirements & Customs

Passports

For country-specific passport information, contact the following agencies:

For Residents of Australia -- Contact the Australian Passport Information Service at tel. 131-232 or visit www.passports.gov.au.

For Residents of Canada -- Contact the central Passport Office, Department of Foreign Affairs and International Trade, Ottawa, ON K1A 0G3 (tel. 800/567-6868; www.ppt.gc.ca).

For Residents of Ireland -- Contact the Passport Office, Setanta Centre, Molesworth Street, Dublin 2 (tel. 01/671-1633; www.foreignaffairs.gov.ie).

For Residents of New Zealand -- Contact the Passports Office, Department of Internal Affairs, 47 Boulcott Street, Wellington, 6011 (tel. 0800/225-050 in New Zealand or 04/474-8100; www.passports.govt.nz).

For Residents of the United Kingdom -- Visit your nearest passport office, major post office, or travel agency, or contact the Identity and Passport Service (IPS), 89 Eccleston Square, London, SW1V 1PN (tel. 0300/222-0000; www.ips.gov.uk).

For Residents of the United States -- To find your regional passport office, check the U.S. State Department website (http://travel.state.gov/passport) or call the National Passport Information Center (tel. 877/487-2778) for automated information.

Visas

For citizens of many countries, including the U.S., U.K., Ireland, Australia, and New Zealand, only a passport is required to visit Canada for up to 90 days; no visas or proof of vaccinations are necessary. For the most up-to-date list of visitor visa exemptions, visit Citizenship and Immigration Canada at www.cic.gc.ca.

Customs

International visitors can expect at least a probing question or two at the border or airport. Normal baggage and personal possessions should be no problem, but plants, animals, and weapons are among the items that may be prohibited or require additional documents before they're allowed in. For specific information about Canadian rules, check with the Canada Border Services Agency (tel. 506/636-5064 from outside the country or 800/461-9999 within Canada; www.cbsa-asfc.gc.ca). Search for "bsf5082" to get a full list of visitor information.

Tobacco and alcoholic beverages face strict import restrictions: Individuals 18 years or older are allowed to bring in 200 cigarettes, 50 cigars, or 200 grams of tobacco; and only one of the following amounts of alcohol: 1.14 liters of liquor, 1.5 liters of wine, or 24 cans or bottles of beer. Additional amounts face hefty taxes. Possession of a car radar detector is prohibited, whether or not it is connected. Police officers can confiscate it and fines may run as high as C$1,000. A car driven into Canada can stay for the duration allowed the visitor, which is up to 6 months unless the visitor has arranged permission for a longer stay. Visitors can temporarily bring recreational vehicles, such as snowmobiles, boats, and trailers, as well as outboard motors, for personal use. If you do not declare goods or falsely declare them, they can be seized along with the vehicle in which you brought them.

For information on what you're allowed to bring home, contact one of the following agencies:

U.S. Citizens: U.S. Customs & Border Protection (CBP), 1300 Pennsylvania Ave., NW, Washington, DC 20229 (tel. 877/287-8667; www.cbp.gov).

U.K. Citizens: HM Revenue & Customs, Crownhill Court, Tailyour Road, Plymouth, PL6 5BZ (tel. 0845/010-9000, or 020/8929-0152 from outside the U.K.; www.hmrc.gov.uk).

Australian Citizens: Australian Customs Service, Customs House, 5 Constitution Avenue, Canberra City, ACT 2601 (tel. 1300/363-263, or 612/6275-6666 from outside Australia; www.customs.gov.au).

New Zealand Citizens: New Zealand Customs, the Customhouse, 17-21 Whitmore St., Box 2218, Wellington, 6140 (tel. 0800/428-786 or 04/473-6099; www.customs.govt.nz).

If you're traveling with expensive items, such as laptops or musical equipment, consider registering them before you leave your country to avoid challenges at the border on your return.

Medical Requirements

Unless you're arriving from an area known to be suffering from an epidemic (particularly cholera or yellow fever), inoculations or vaccinations are not required for entry into Canada.

Money

Frommer's lists exact prices in the local currency. However, rates fluctuate, so before departing consult a currency exchange website such as www.oanda.com/currency/converter to check up-to-the-minute rates.

One of the perks of a holiday in Montréal is that it's noticeably less expensive than other major world cities such as New York, London, and Tokyo.

ATMs (guichet automatique) are practically everywhere, in shopping centers, bars, variety stores, gas stations, etc. Bank machines don't typically charge user fees if that is your banking institution back home, but call ahead to make sure. Elsewhere, ATMs are notorious for charging extremely high flat rates to withdraw cash, often about C$5 even on a minimum withdrawal of C$20. Many institutions (and some taxis) now also accept payment by bank card, and credit card microchip usage with PIN instead of signing. Most machines only allow a four-digit PIN, so check with your bank beforehand should you have a five- or six-digit PIN.

Beware of hidden credit card fees while traveling. Check with your credit or debit card issuer to see what fees, if any, will be charged for overseas transactions. Check with your bank before departing to avoid any surprise charges on your statement.

For help with currency conversions, tip calculations, and more, download Frommer's convenient Travel Tools app for your mobile device. Go to www.frommers.com/go/mobile and click on the Travel Tools icon.

What Things Cost in Montréal & Québec City (C$)

Taxi from the airport to downtown Montréal 38.00

Taxi from the airport to downtown Québec City 33.00

Double room, moderate from 160.00

Double room, inexpensive from 100.00

Three-course dinner for one without wine, moderate 20.00-25.00

Bottle of beer 2.00-4.00

Cup of coffee 1.00-2.00

1 liter of premium gas 1.42

Admission to most museums 10.00-17.00

Admission to most national parks Free

Neighborhoods in Brief

DOWNTOWN (ALSO KNOWN, IN FRENCH, AS CENTRE-VILLE) -- This area contains the Montréal skyline’s most dramatic elements and includes most of the city’s large luxury and chain hotels, prominent museums, corporate headquarters, main transportation hubs, and department stores.

The principal east-west streets include boulevard René-Lévesque, rue Ste-Catherine, boulevard de Maisonneuve, and rue Sherbrooke. The north-south arteries include rue McGill and boulevard St-Laurent (aka the Main), which serves as the line of demarcation between east and west Montréal. The district is loosely bounded by rue Sherbrooke to the north, boulevard René-Lévesque to the south, boulevard St-Laurent to the east, and rue Drummond to the west.

Within this neighborhood is the area called “the Golden Square Mile,” an Anglophone district once characterized by dozens of mansions erected by the wealthy Scottish and English merchants and industrialists who dominated the city’s political life well into the 20th century. Many of those stately homes were torn down when skyscrapers began to rise here after World War II, but some remain.

Rue Crescent, at the western side of downtown, is one of Montréal’s major dining and nightlife streets. While the northern end of the street houses luxury boutiques in Victorian brownstones, its southern end holds dozens of restaurants, bars, and clubs of all styles. The street’s party atmosphere spills over onto neighboring streets. In warm weather, the area’s 20- and 30-something denizens take over sidewalk cafes and balcony terraces.

At downtown’s northern edge is the urban campus of prestigious McGill University, an English-language school.

VIEUX-MONTREAL & VIEUX-PORT -- The city was born here in 1642, by the river at Pointe-à-Callière, the museum of archaeology and history. Today, especially in summer, many people converge around Place Jacques-Cartier, where cafe tables line narrow terraces. This is where street performers, strolling locals, and tourists congregate.

The main thoroughfares are rue St-Jacques, rue Notre-Dame, and rue St-Paul. The waterfront road that hugs the promenade bordering the St. Lawrence River is rue de la Commune.

The neighborhood is larger than it might seem at first. It’s bounded on the north by rue St-Antoine, and its southern boundary is the Vieux-Port (Old Port), now dominated by a well-used waterfront promenade that provides welcome breathing room for cyclists, in-line skaters, and picnickers. To the east, Vieux-Montréal is bordered by rue Berri, and to the west, by rue McGill.

Several small but intriguing museums are housed in historic buildings here, and the district’s architectural heritage has been substantially preserved. Restored 18th- and 19th-century structures have been adapted for use as shops, boutique hotels, galleries, cafes, bars, offices, and apartments. In the evening, many of the finer buildings are beautifully illuminated. In the summer, sections of rue St-Paul turn into pedestrian-only lanes. The neighborhood has an official website: www.vieux.montreal.qc.ca.

About a 20-minute walk west of Vieux-Montréal is a neighborhood called Little Burgundy. You’ll pass through it if you head to the Atwater Market. It’s a small stretch along rue Notre Dame ouest that is a destination for its quirky item boutiques, chichi bars, and—especially—its eateries. This strip is mentioned in the restaurant and nightlife chapters.

PLATEAU MONT-ROYAL & MILE END -- “The Plateau” is where many Montréalers feel most at home—away from downtown’s chattering pace and the more touristed Vieux-Montréal. It’s where many locals dine, shop, play, and live.

Bounded roughly by rue Sherbrooke to the south, boulevard St-Joseph to the north, avenue Papineau to the east, and rue St-Urbain to the west, the Plateau has a vibrant ethnic atmosphere that fluctuates and shifts with each new immigration surge.

Rue St-Denis runs the length of the district from south to north and is the thumping central artery of Francophone Montréal, as central to French-speaking Montréal as boulevard St-Germain is to Paris. It is thick with bistros, offbeat shops, and lively nightspots, and is a great walking street for taking in the pulse of Francophone life. There are no museums or important galleries on St-Denis, nor is the architecture notable, so there’s no obligatory sightseeing. Do as the locals do: pause over bowls of café au lait at any of the numerous terraces that line the avenue.

Boulevard St-Laurent, running parallel to rue St-Denis, has a more polyglot flavor. Known as “the Main,” St-Laurent was the boulevard first encountered by foreigners tumbling off ships at the waterfront. They simply shouldered their belongings and walked north, peeling off into adjoining streets when they heard familiar tongues or smelled the drifting aromas of food reminiscent of the old country. Without its gumbo of languages and cultures, St-Laurent would be something of an urban eyesore. It’s not pretty in the conventional sense. But its ground-floor windows are filled with collages of shoes and pastries and aluminum cookware, curtains of sausages, and the daringly far-fetched garments of designers on the forward edge of Montréal’s active fashion industry.

Many warehouses and former tenements in the Plateau have been converted to house this panoply of shops, bars, and high- and low-cost eateries.

Other major streets are avenue du Mont-Royal and the swanky avenue Laurier.

Mile End, the neighborhood that adjoins Plateau Mont-Royal at its northwest corner, is contained by boulevard St-Joseph on the south, rue Bernard in the north, rue St-Denis on the east, and avenue du Parc on the west. It has designer boutiques, shops specializing in household goods, and some great restaurants.

Mile End has many pockets of ethnic mini neighborhoods, including Italian, Hassidic, and Portuguese. The area some still call Greektown, for instance, runs along avenue du Parc and is thick with restaurants and taverns.

PARC DU MONT-ROYAL -- Not many cities have a mountain at their core. Montréal is named for this small outcrop—its “Royal Mountain.” The park here is a soothing urban pleasure. With trails for hiking and cross-country skiing, it’s well used by Montréalers, who refer to it simply and affectionately as “the Mountain.” Buses travel through the park, and if you’re in moderately good shape you can walk to the top in 1 to 3 hours from downtown, depending on the route.

On its northern slope are two cemeteries, one that used to be Anglophone and Protestant, the other Francophone and Catholic—reminders of the city’s historic linguistic and religious division.

OLYMPIC PARK -- A 20-minute drive east of downtown on rue Sherbrooke is Olympic Park,named for Stade Olympique (Olympic Stadium), the stadium Montréal built for the 1976 Olympic Games. Four other attractions here make up the newly branded “Espace Pour la Vie” (Space for Life): the city’s lovely Jardin Botanique (Botanical Garden) and three venues of special interest to children: Biodôme de Montréal, Insectarium de Montréal, and the Rio Tinto Alcan Planétarium.

QUARTIER INTERNATIONAL -- When Route 720 was constructed under the city in the early 1970s, it left behind a desolate swath of empty space, smack-dab between downtown and Vieux-Montréal. This area has since become a business center, with office buildings (notably agencies or businesses with an international focus, hence the name “International Quarter”), and the Palais des Congrès (Convention Center).The convention center, in fact, is a design triumph, as unlikely as that seems. Transparent glass exterior walls are a crazy quilt of pink, yellow, blue, green, red, and purple rectangles. You can step into the inside hallway for the full effect—when the sun streams in, it’s like being inside a huge kaleidoscope. The walls are the vision of Montréal architect Mario Saia.

The Quartier is bounded, more or less, by rue St-Jacques on the south, avenue Viger on the north, rue St-Urbain on the east, and rue University on the west.

QUARTIER DES SPECTACLES -- This newly-vibrant area is home to the Place des Arts (a plaza with the city’s large concert halls and restaurants) and the Musée d’Art Contemporain de Montréal, and is the city’s cultural heart. This is where people flock for opera, music concerts, many of the popular indoor and outdoor festivals, comedy shows, digital art displays, and more. For the past few summers, for instance, an interactive installation of swings that light up and play music has delighted all visitors. It has its own website, at www.quartierdesspectacles.com. The Quartier is bounded by boulevard René-Lévesque, rue Sherbrooke, City Councillors, and rue St-Hubert. Its eastern side overlaps with the Quartier Latin (details below).

THE VILLAGE -- Also known as the Gay Village (really), Montréal’s gay and lesbian enclave is one of North America’s largest. It’s a compact, but vibrant district with cafes, clothing stores, dance clubs, and antiques shops. It runs along rue Ste-Catherine est from rue St-Hubert to rue Papineau and onto side streets. A rainbow, the symbol of the gay community, marks the Beaudry Métro station, which is on rue Ste-Catherine in the heart of the neighborhood.

In recent years, the city has made the length of rue Ste-Catherine in the Village pedestrian-only for the entire summer. Bars and restaurants build ad-hoc terraces into the street, and a summer-resort atmosphere pervades.

PARC JEAN-DRAPEAU: ILE STE-HELENE & ILE NOTRE-DAME -- Connected by two bridges, these two small islands make up Parc Jean-Drapeau (www.parcjeandrapeau.com), which is almost entirely car-free and accessible by Métro.

St. Helen’s Island was altered extensively to become the site of Expo 67, Montréal’s very successful World’s Fair in 1967. In the 4 years before the Expo, construction crews doubled its surface area with landfill, and then went on to create Ile Notre-Dame beside it. When the World’s Fair was over, the city preserved the site and a few of its exhibition buildings.

Today, the park is home to the popular summertime Aquatic Complex, the La Ronde amusement park, and the Casino de Montréal. It’s also where the 3-day Grand Prix auto race takes place every June.

QUARTIER LATIN -- The southern end of rue St-Denis runs near the concrete campus of the Université du Québec à Montréal (UQAM). This is the Latin Quarter and decidedly student-oriented, rife with the messiness that characterizes student and bohemian quarters. Loud music pours out of cheap bars, grubby panhandlers ask for cash, and young adults swap philosophical insights and telephone numbers. Locals seem nonplussed by the numbers of drug addicts around the Berri-UQAM Métro entrances, but outsiders may find the scene intimidating.

THE UNDERGROUND CITY -- During Montréal’s cold winters and sultry summers, life slows above-ground on the streets of downtown as people escape into la ville souterraine, an extensive year-round subterranean universe. Here, in a controlled climate that recalls an eternal spring, it’s possible to arrive at the railroad station, check into a hotel, shop for days, and go out for dinner—all without stepping outdoors.

The city calls it the “underground pedestrian network,” but most locals still use the colloquial name “underground city.” It got its start when major downtown developments—including as Place Ville-Marie (designed by I.M. Pei, before he created the Pyramid at the Louvre in Paris), Place Bonaventure, Complexe Desjardins, Palais des Congrès, and Place des Arts—put their below-street-level areas to profitable use, leasing space for shops and other enterprises. Over time—in fits and starts, and with no master plan—these spaces became connected with Métro stations, and then with each other through underground tunnels. It slowly became possible to travel much of downtown through a maze of corridors, tunnels, and plazas. Today, some 1,000 retailers and eateries are in or connected to the network.

The term “underground city” is not 100 percent accurate: In Place Bonaventure, for instance, passengers can exit the Métro and find themselves peering out a window several floors above the street.

Natural light is let in wherever possible, which drastically reduces the feeling of claustrophobia. However, the underground city covers a vast area without the convenience of a logical street grid, so it can be confusing.

When to Go

High season in the province of Québec is summer, from June 24 (Jean-Baptiste Day) through early September (Labour Day). Festivals listed in chapters 8 and 15 give you a peek at some of the back-to-back options. In Québec City, the period from Christmas to New Year’s and February weekends during the big winter Carnaval are especially busy, too. Celebrating the holidays a la française is a particular treat in Québec City, where the streets are almost certainly banked with snow and nearly every ancient building sports wreaths, decorated fir trees, and glittering white lights. Just north of Montréal, the Laurentian Mountains do big ski business late Nov to late Mar. Hotels are most likely to be full and charge their highest rates in these periods.

Low season is during March and April, when fewer events are scheduled and winter sports start to be iffy. The late-fall months of October and November are also slow due to their all-but-empty social calendars. But autumn is still a lovely time to visit: walks in the cities’ parks are a refreshing tonic, the trees still have their fall color, and the roads are less crowded for day trips into the countryside from either city.

Weather

Temperatures are usually a few degrees lower in Québec City than in Montréal. Spring, short but sweet, arrives around the middle of May. Summer (mid-June through mid-Sept) tends to be humid in Montréal, Québec City, and other communities along the St. Lawrence River, and drier at the inland resorts of the Laurentides and the Cantons-de-l’Est. Intense, but usually brief, heat waves mark July and early August, although temperatures rarely remain oppressive in the evenings.

Autumn (Sept–Oct) is as short and changeable as spring, with warm days and cool nights. It’s during this season that Canadian maple trees blaze red and orange.

Winter brings dependable snow for skiing outside Montréal in the Laurentides and Cantons-de-l’Est and, north of Québec City, in Charlevoix. Snow and slush are present in the city from November to March.

Weather forecasts from the Canadian government are at weather.gc.ca.

Holidays

Canada’s important public holidays are New Year’s Day (Jan 1); Good Friday and Easter Monday (Mar or Apr); Victoria Day (the Mon preceding May 25); St-Jean-Baptiste Day, Québec’s own “national” day (June 24); Canada Day (July 1); Labour Day (first Mon in Sept); Canadian Thanksgiving Day (second Mon in Oct); and Christmas (Dec 25).

Tips for Women Travelers

Montréal and Québec City are generally safe cities for female adults. Do exercise caution, however, especially when walking alone at night.

Special-Interest Vacations

Academic Trips & Language Classes

If you're itching to dust off your notebooks from high school French class, the Université du Québec à Montréal (UQAM; tel. 514/987-3000, ext. 5621; www.langues.immersion.uqam.ca) offers French immersion courses for 1 to 3 weeks in either July or August. Students can opt for on-campus housing or stay with a host family. One session integrates French instruction with jazz events during the renowned Festival International de Jazz de Montréal. Programs are geared for persons 18 and up, beginners through intermediate.

Adults and teens alike can combine an array of activities with French language immersion in Québec City through Edu-Inter (tel. 514/613-0102; www.learningfrenchinquebec.com). Year-round sessions can quench an amour pour le français by combining language programs with skiing, cooking, horseback riding, or sight-seeing.

Adventure & Wellness Trips

Bike touring is wildly popular and well accommodated in Québec. The province inaugurated the Route Verte (Green Route), a 4,000km (2,485-mile) bike network, in the summer of 2007. Many inns and restaurants along the route actively work to accommodate the nutritional, safety, and equipment needs of cyclists.

Vélo Québec (tel. 800/567-8356 or 514/521-8356; www.velo.qc.ca) was behind the development of the Route Verte and offers excellent biking information. It also offers guided bike tours throughout the province, coordinating meals, accommodations, and baggage transport.

The gorgeously rural Charlevoix region, an hour north of Québec City, is the perfect place in which to take an eco-tour. Charlevoix was designated a protected UNESCO World Biosphere Reserve in 1988 and is subject to balanced development and cross-disciplinary research into conservation. For tour suggestions, check with Aventure Ecotourisme Québec (www.aventure-ecotourisme.qc.ca), an association of tour operators that provides outdoor adventure programs with a focus on environmental care and preservation. It is governed by a commitment policy which member companies promise to respect. It is partner to Leave No Trace Center for Outdoor Ethics (www.leavenotrace.ca), which educates operators and tourists about how to minimize the environmental impact of recreation. Aventure Ecotourisme also offers vacation planning.

One association member is Mer et Monde Ecotours (tel. 866/637-6663 or 418/232-6779; www.mer-et-monde.qc.ca), which puts on kayak trips in Charlevoix that take clients close to the whales who converge in the region each summer. For more information,

Food & Wine Trips

In Montréal, Europea restaurant (tel. 514/398-9229; www.europea.ca) offers 1-hour cooking lessons for C$45 per person (click on "L'Atelier" at the website). Europea knows of which it teaches: The title of Chef of the Year was bestowed on chef Jérôme Ferrer by the Société des Chefs, Cuisiniers et Pâtissiers du Québec in 2007.

Also in Montréal is the École de cuisine Mezza Luna, with Italian cooking classes by Elena Faita-Venditelli. She runs the packed-to-the-rafters cookware (and sportswear) shop Quincaillerie Dante, 6851 rue St-Dominique (tel. 514/271-2057). In 2008, Faita-Venditelli was named "l'Ordre national," the most prestigious honorary distinction in the province. Call tel. 514/272-5299 or visit www.ecolemezzaluna.ca to inquire; note that classes are often booked months in advance.

In the Laurentians, about an hour north of Montréal on the way to Mont-Tremblant, guests of L'Eau à la Bouche can opt for a weekend package that includes hands-on kitchen training with chef/owner Anne Desjardins. Call tel. 888/828-2991 or 450/229-2991, or visit www.leaualabouche.com.

In Québec City, the famed restaurant Laurie Raphaël (tel. 418/692-4555; www.laurieraphael.com) has a fancy public kitchen on its premises (along with a small boutique of cooking equipment). From September to May, chef/owner Daniel Vézina gives 3- to 4-hour cooking classes here on Saturday afternoons for C$185 per person (cost includes a meal, plus wine). Reservations are required. Also in Québec City, Les Artistes de la Table (tel. 418/694-1056; www.lesartistesdelatable.com) offers 4-hour custom cooking classes in the first floor of a gorgeous neoclassical building from 1850. Serious cooks will want to walk by just to peek at the kitchen through the vast windows. Cost is about C$120 per person.

If you have a car, the Route des Vins (Wine Route), 103km (64 miles) southeast of Montréal, is a pleasant vineyard tour that goes past Vignoble de l'Orpailleur (tel. 450/295-2763; www.orpailleur.ca), Domaine Pinnacle (tel. 450/263-5835; www.domainepinnacle.com), and Le Cep d'Argent (tel. 877/864-4441 or 819/864-4441; www.cepdargent.com), all within Cantons-de-l'Est, the region that specializes in cider and ice wine.

Foodies will also want to take a look at the website for The Gourmet Route, www.parcoursgourmand.com. The site promotes "gourmet tourism" and lists some 50 growers, processors, gourmet restaurants, and stores. An interactive map, at www.parcoursgourmand.com/eng/mdl-carte-parcours.asp, is especially useful for seeing what farms are nearest.

Tips for Travelers with Disabilities

Québec regulations regarding wheelchair accessibility are similar to those in the U.S. and the rest of Canada, including requirements for curb cuts, entrance ramps, designated parking spaces, and specially equipped bathrooms. While the more modern parts of the cities are fully wheelchair accessible, access to the restaurants and inns housed in 18th- and 19th-century buildings, especially in Québec City, is often difficult or impossible.

Advice is provided in the French-language guide Le Québec Accessible, which lists more than 1,000 hotels, restaurants, theaters, and museums. It costs C$20 and is available from Kéroul (tel. 514/252-3104; www.keroul.qc.ca). Kéroul also publishes an English-language brochure called The Accessible Road, which has information about everything from how to get a handicapped parking sticker to which top attractions are most accessible. It's available as a free download at www.keroul.qc.ca. Québec's provincial tourism organization maintains an online, searchable database of accessible establishments and tourist sites at www.bonjourquebec.com. Also look for the Tourist and Leisure Companion Sticker (T.L.C.S.) at tourist sites. It designates that companions of travelers with disabilities can enter for free. A list of participating enterprises is online at www.vatl-tlcs.org.

Tips for Families

Montréal and Québec City offer an abundance of family-oriented activities. Many of them are outdoors, even in winter. Watersports, river cruises, fort climbing, and fireworks displays are among summer's many attractions, with dog sledding and skiing the top choices in snowy months. Québec City's walls and fortifications are fodder for imagining the days of knights and princesses. In both cities, many museums make special efforts to address children's interests and enthusiasms.

Children who speak French or are learning French might like a guidebook of their own. The fun Mon Premier Guide de Voyage au Québec (Ulysse) has 96 pages of photos, miniessays, and activities for kids age 6 to 12. You can find it in provincial bookshops.

For a list of more family-friendly travel resources, visit www.frommers.com/planning.

Staying Connected

Telephones 

The Canadian telephone system, operated by Bell Canada, closely resembles the U.S. model. All operators speak English and French, and they respond in the appropriate language as soon as callers speak to them. In Canada, dial tel. 0 to reach an operator. When making a local call within the province of Québec, you must dial the area code before the seven-digit number.

Phone numbers that begin with 800, 888, 877, and 866 are toll-free. That means they're free to call within Canada and from the U.S. You need to dial 1 first.

Remember that both local and long-distance calls usually cost more from hotels -- sometimes a lot more, so check before dialing. Some hotels charge for all calls, including toll-free ones.

To call the province of Québec from the U.S.: Simply dial 1, then the three-digit area code, then the seven-digit number. Example: To call the Infotouriste Centre in Montréal, dial 1-514-873-2015.

To call Québec from the U.K./Ireland/Australia/New Zealand: Dial the international access code 00 (from Australia, 0011), then the Canadian country code 1, then the area code, and then the seven-digit number. Example: To call the Infotouriste Centre in Montréal, dial 00-1-514-873-2015.

To call the U.S. from Québec: Simply dial 1, then the three-digit area code and seven-digit number. Example: To call the U.S. Passport Agency from the province of Québec, dial 1-202-647-0518.

To call the U.K./Ireland/Australia/New Zealand from Québec: Dial 011, then the country code (U.K. 44, Ireland 353, Australia 61, New Zealand 64), then the number.

A local call at a pay phone in the province of Québec costs C50¢. Directory information calls (dial tel. 411) are free of charge from pay phones.

For help with time translations, and more, download our convenient Travel Tools app for your mobile device. Go to www.frommers.com/go/mobile and click on the Travel Tools icon.

Mobile Phones

Cellphone service is good in Québec cities and sometimes spotty in areas beyond city borders. Cellphone service is widely available throughout the regions mentioned in this guide.

Visitors from the U.S. should be able to get roaming service that allows them to use their cellphones in Canada. Some wireless companies let customers adjust their plans to get cheaper rates while traveling. Sprint, for instance, has a "Canadian roaming" option for US$3 per month that reduces the per-minute rate. Ask your provider for options. Europeans and most Australians are on the GSM (Global System for Mobile Communications) network with removable plastic SIM cards in their phones. Call your wireless provider for information about traveling. You may be able to purchase pay-as-you-go SIM cards in Canada with local providers such as Rogers (www.rogers.com). American travelers may find that their SIM card is locked by their carrier, but consumers are legally allowed to unlock their phones, although it takes some ingenuity to do so. If you go this route, plan enough time to request an approval code from your carrier.

Cellphone rentals are not common in Canada, so if you end up traveling without a phone or with a phone that doesn't get reception, prepaid phone services are a good option. With OneSuite.com (tel. 866/417-8483; www.onesuite.com), for instance, you prepay an online account for as little as US$10. You can then dial a toll-free or local access number from a hotel phone, enter your PIN, and then dial the number you're calling. Calls from Canada to mainland U.S. cost just US2.5¢ to US3.5¢ per minute. Some hotels charge for local and even toll-free calls, so check before dialing.

Cheaper still are phone calls conducted over the Web. Skype (www.skype.com) allows you to make international calls from your laptop or a mobile app on your smartphone. Calls to people who also have the program on their computers are free. You can call people who don't have the service, although modest fees apply.

Internet & Wi-Fi

Most hotels and auberges, as well as many cafes, now offer Wi-Fi. Some hotels still offer high-speed Internet access through cable connections. Except at the larger hotels, Wi-Fi usually is free. For travelers in Montréal, Ile Sans Fil (www.ilesansfil.org) lists free Wi-Fi spots in the city. The listing is available as a free iPhone app, too. For travelers in Québec City, ZAP Québec (www.zapquebec.org) lists free Wi-Fi spots.

Most hotels maintain business centers with computers for use by guests or outsiders, or at least have one computer available for guest use. Again, except at the larger hotels, this access often is free. Cybercafes are not common. In Vieux-Montréal, Café-Bistro Van Houtte, 165 rue St-Paul ouest (tel. 514/288-9387), has a bank of computers and prepaid Internet access cards for C$5 per hour. In Québec City, the Centre Infotouriste de Québec, 12 rue Ste-Anne (tel. 877/266-5687; www.bonjourquebec.com), has a bank of computers for visitor use. The cost is C$2.50 for 20 minutes.

Calendar of Events

Year-round, it's nearly impossible to miss a celebration of some sort in Montréal and Québec City. For an exhaustive list of events beyond those listed here, check http://events.frommers.com, where you'll find a searchable, up-to-the-minute roster of what's happening in cities all over the world.

January

La Fête des Neiges (the Snow Festival), Montréal. Montréal's answer to Québec City's February winter Carnaval features dog-sled runs, a mock survival camp, street hockey, and tobogganing. It's held during the last 2 weekends in January and the beginning of February. Visit www.parcjeandrapeau.com and search for "Fête des Neiges" or call tel. 514/872-6120. January 21 to February 5, 2012.

February

Festival Montréal en Lumière (Montréal High Lights Festival). At the heart of this winter celebration are culinary competitions and wine tastings. There are also multimedia light shows, classical and pop concerts, and the Montréal All-Nighter that ends with a free breakfast at dawn. Call tel. 888/477-9955 or 514/288-9955, or visit www.montrealhighlights.com, for details. February 16 to 26, 2012.

April

Bal en Blanc Party Week, Montréal. Drawing crowds of an estimated 15,000 people, this 5-day rave/dance party is one of the biggest such events in the world. Last year's "White Party Week" was the 16th annual affair and featured house and trance D.J. events at Palais des Congrès and clubs such as Parking. Visit www.balenblanc.com. Early or mid-April, over Easter weekend.

May

Montréal Museums Day. This event is an open house for most of the city's museums, with free admission and free shuttle buses. Visit www.museesmontreal.org or call the tourism office (tel. 877/266-5687 or 514/873-2015) for details. Last Sunday in May.

Montréal Bike Fest. For 8 days, tens of thousands of enthusiasts converge on Montréal to participate in cycling competitions that include a nocturnal bike ride (Tour la Nuit) and the grueling Tour de l'Île, a 52km (32-mile) race around the island's rim; it draws 30,000 cyclists, shuts down roads, and attracts more than 100,000 spectators. The nonprofit biking organization Vélo Québec (tel. 800/567-8356 or 514/521-8356) lists details at www.velo.qc.ca. Late May into early June.

June

Les FrancoFolies de Montréal. Since 1988, this music fest has featured French-language pop, hip-hop, electronic, world beat, and chanson. There are 70 indoor shows and twice as many that are outdoors and free. Call tel. 888/444-9114 or 514/876-8989, or check www.francofolies.com. June 8 to 16, 2012.

Mondial de la Bière, Montréal. Yes, beer fans, this is a 5-day festival devoted to your favorite beverage. Admission is free, and tasting coupons are C$1 each, with most tastings costing one to five coupons for 3-ounce samples. Showcased are world brands and boutique microbreweries, and "courses" lead to a "Diploma in Beer Tasting." For details, call tel. 514/722-9640 or check www.festivalmondialbiere.qc.ca. Early June.

Saint-Ambroise Montréal Fringe Festival. For a long time, the main graphic at this event's website was a hand raising its middle finger. That gives you an idea of the attitude behind the Plateau Mont-Royal fest. It's 10 days of out-there theater with acts such as a one-man Star Wars stand-up, clowns gone bad, and drunken drag queens. The festival proclaims that there's "No Artistic Direction. Artists are selected by lottery. . . . No Censorship. Artists have complete freedom to present ANYTHING." Vive le fringe! Call tel. 514/849-3378 or check www.montrealfringe.ca. Mid-June.

Jean-Baptiste Day. Honoring St. John the Baptist, the patron saint of French-Canadians, this day is marked by far more festivities and enthusiasm throughout Québec than is Canada Day on July 1. It's Québec's own fête nationale with fireworks, bonfires, music in parks, and parades. Call tel. 514/527-9891 or visit www.fetenationale.qc.ca for details. June 24.

L'International des Feux Loto-Québec (International Fireworks Competition), Montréal. Pitting the fireworks displays of different countries against each other, this annual competition is a spectacular event. Buy tickets to watch from the open-air theater in La Ronde amusement park on Île Ste-Hélène, or enjoy the pyrotechnics for free from almost anywhere overlooking the river (tickets have the added benefit of admission to the amusement park). Insider tip: The Jacques Cartier bridge closes to traffic during the fireworks and offers an unblocked, up-close view. Kids, needless to say, love the whole explosive business. Call tel. 514/397-2000 or go to www.internationaldesfeuxloto-quebec.com for details. In 2011, the country-themed program was held on Wednesdays and Saturdays from late June to the end of July. Check for 2012 dates.

July

Canada Day. On July 1, 1867, three British colonies joined together to form the federation of Canada, with further independence from Britain coming in stages in the 1880s. Celebrations of Canada's birthday are biggest in Ottawa, though there are concerts, flag raisings, and family festivities in Montréal and Québec City. July 1.

Festival International de Jazz de Montréal. Since Montréal has a long tradition in jazz, this is one of the monster events on the city's calendar, celebrating America's art form since 1979. The 2011 edition featured performances by guitarist Paco de Lucia, Best New Artist Grammy winner Esperanza Spalding, k. d. lang, Robert Plant, the B-52s, Sade, Prince, Diana Krall, Chick Corea, Youssou N'Dour, and hundreds more. It costs serious money to hear stars of such magnitude, and tickets often sell out months in advance. Fortunately, 450 free outdoor performances also take place during the late-June/early July party, many right on downtown's streets and plazas. Call tel. 888/515-0515 or 514/523-3378, or visit www.montrealjazzfest.com. The 33rd edition of the festival will be held from June 28 to July 7, 2012.

Festival Juste pour Rire (Just for Laughs Festival), Montréal. Well-known comics including Bill Cosby, Whoopi Goldberg, and John Cleese have been featured, while smaller-name Francophone and Anglophone groups and stand-ups from around the world come to perform. It's held mostly along rue St-Denis and elsewhere in the Latin Quarter, both indoors and on the street. Call tel. 888/244-3155 or 514/845-2322, or check www.hahaha.com, for details. Held July 5 to 24 in 2011; check for 2012 dates.

Divers/Cité Festival, Montréal. In partnership with government agencies and sponsored by major corporations, Divers/Cité is one of North America's largest parties for gay, lesbian, bisexual, and transgendered people. It's 6 days of dance, drag, art, and music concerts, and nearly everything is outdoors and free. For details, call tel. 514/285-4011 or visit www.diverscite.org. Late July.

Festival International de Courses de Bateaux-Dragons de Montréal. The annual dragon boat festival welcomes some 200 teams that pour into the Olympic Basin on Île Notre-Dame. In addition to races, there are drawing contests for children and opportunities to try paddling on the ancient Chinese crafts. Details are at www.montrealdragonboat.com. Three days in late July.

August

Festival des Films du Monde (World Film Festival), Montréal. This festival has been an international film event since 1977. A strong panel of actors, directors, and writers from around the world make up the jury each year, giving the event a weight that many festivals lack. Various movie theaters play host. Call tel. 514/848-3883 or check www.ffm-montreal.org for details. Late August to early September.

September

La Fête des Vendanges. This event gives attendees a chance to discover the scenic wine country and charming streets of Magog and Orford in the Eastern Townships. During the grape harvest season, visitors can partake in dinner cruises along Lac Memphrémagog, street festivals, and restaurant events that bring together chefs and wine producers for special dinner collaborations. Last year's dates were September 3, 4, 5, 10, and 11. Visit www.fetedesvendanges.com for updates.

Fall Foliage. Starting midmonth, the maple trees blaze with color, and a walk in the parks of Montréal and Québec City is a refreshing tonic. It's also a perfect time to drive to the Laurentians or Cantons-de-L'Est (both near Montréal) or Île d'Orléans or Charlevoix (both easy drives from Québec City).

October

Black & Blue Festival, Montréal. One of the biggest gay events on the planet, this party was, a few years ago, named the best international fest by France's Pink TV Awards, beating out even Carnival in Rio. And when we say big, we mean big: The main event is an all-night party at Olympic Stadium. There's also a Jock Ball, a Leather Ball, and a Military Ball. Call tel. 514/875-7026 or visit www.bbcm.org. Seven days in mid-October.

Festival du Nouveau Cinéma, Montréal. Screenings of new and experimental films ignite controversy, and forums discuss the latest trends in cinema and video. Events take place at halls and cinemas throughout the city. Call tel. 514/282-0004 or check www.nouveaucinema.ca. Twelve days in mid-October.

Fast Facts

ATMs/Banks -- ATMs (guichet automatique) and banks are easy to find in all parts of the city. In Canada, some debit cards require a four-digit pin. If your card has a longer pin it might be declined.

Business Hours -- Most stores in the province are open from 9 or 10am until 5 or 6pm Monday through Wednesday, 9 or 10am to 9pm on Thursday and Friday, 9 or 10am to 5 or 6pm on Saturday, and Sunday from noon to 5pm.

Doctors & Hospitals -- Hospitals with emergency rooms include Hôpital Général de Montréal, 1650 rue Cedar (tel 514/934-1934), and Hôpital Royal Victoria, 687 av. des Pins ouest (tel 514/934-1934). Hôpital de Montréal pour Enfants, 2300 rue Tupper (tel 514/412-4400), is a children’s hospital. All three are associated with McGill University.

Emergencies -- Dial 911 for police, fire, or ambulance assistance.

Internet Access -- Most public spaces such as cafes now have free Wi-Fi. Some hotel lobbies still charge a daily rate.

Mail & Postage -- English-language services are offered at about one out of four post offices in the city, including 157 rue St-Antoine ouest in Vieux-Montréal and 800 René-Lévesque ouest in downtown.

Newspapers & Magazines -- “The Globe and Mail" (www.theglobeandmail.com) is Canada’s national English-language paper, and the “Montréal Gazette” (www.montrealgazette.com) is the city’s primary English-language paper.

Pharmacies -- A pharmacy is called a pharmacie; a drugstore is a droguerie. A large chain in Montréal is Pharmaprix (www.pharmaprix.ca; tel 800/746-7737).

Sustainable Travel & Ecotourism

Montréal walks the walk when it comes to green living -- or, more accurately, it bikes the bike. Its BIXI system, a self-service bicycle rental program that debuted in the spring of 2009, began picking up awards even before a single bike hit the streets, including a prestigious Edison Best New Products Award for best product of 2009 in the Energy & Sustainability category.

That was high praise for a service that had yet to satisfy even one customer. But since its launch, BIXI (which is an abbreviation of the words bicyclette and taxi) has proven popular. Fees and details are listed at www.bixi.com/home or call tel. 877/820-2453 or 514/789-BIXI (2494). As with programs in Berlin, Paris, and Barcelona, BIXI users pay a small fee to pick up bikes from designated bike stands and drop them off at any other stand. (Helmets are not included.) Modular bike-rack stations are Web-enabled and solar-powered, and are open spring, summer, and fall (Apr-Nov). At the beginning of the 2010 biking season, BIXI had 5,000 bikes on the road and 400 stations in Montréal's central boroughs. Last season, over three million trips were made.

BIXI is most economical for short trips (that's what it's designed for), so visitors who want a bike for a full day or longer will find it cheaper to rent from a shop.

Montréal does make it easy to bike. There is a huge network of bicycle paths throughout the city, with whole sections of roads turned into bike lanes during the warm months.

These are walking cities, too. In the warm months, Montréal closes off large sections of main streets for pedestrian-only traffic, including rue Ste-Catherine in the Village and, for special events, rue St-Paul in Vieux-Montréal and rue St-Laurent in the Plateau. In 2009, the Plateau neighborhood unveiled a 15-year plan to create more pedestrian-only streets, wider sidewalks, and a tramway line on avenue du Parc, which runs north-south through the eastern side of Parc du Mont-Royal. It's part of a grander effort to reduce traffic and encourage public transport and strolling.

The Hotel Association of Canada (HAC) oversees the Green Key Eco-Rating Program (in French, Clé Verte), which awards a rating of one to five green keys to hotels that minimize waste and reduce their ecological footprint. The voluntary, self-administered audit assesses five areas within hotel management, including housekeeping and food services. Recipients often display a Green Key/Clé Verte plaque in a prominent location alongside other commendations. While HAC does not currently verify the audits on a national scale, the Corporation de l'industrie touristique du Québec (www.citq.info) does so within the province of Québec. To read a description of each award tier and to locate Green Key hotels, visit www.greenkeyglobal.com.

Restaurants throughout the region tout locally sourced food on their menus, with much of the region's food grown, raised, or caught within 161km (100 miles). At the high-end Aix Cuisine du Terroir in Montréal, for instance, terroir refers to soil and the restaurant's allegiance to products grown in the immediate region. You can also find "biodynamic," or organic, wines at many restaurants.

Bring carry bags when you go shopping: BYOB took on a new meaning -- Bring Your Own Bag -- in early 2009, when the province's Société des alcools du Québec (SAQ) liquor stores stopped using single-use plastic and paper bags. "It's a green action," said a spokesperson. "It's really a big statement for sustainable development." The initiative was easy to push through at the wine and hard-liquor stores because the province has a monopoly on them. The hope is that, by setting the bar high in SAQ stores, other retailers will follow suit. Reusable bags are sold at SAQ stores for C75¢ to C$4.

In addition to the resources listed above, visit www.frommers.com/planning for more tips on responsible travel.

Health & Safety

Canada has a state-run health system, and Québec hospitals are modern and decently equipped, with well-trained staffs. You are unlikely to get sick from Canada's food or water.

In general, Canadians who reside outside the province of Québec are covered by an interprovincial agreement, which allows them to present their own province's health card (e.g., OHIP card in Ontario) and have their health services covered by direct billing. In some cases, however, services must be paid for upfront and patients must seek reimbursement from their home province.

Medical treatment in Canada isn't free for foreigners, and doctors and hospitals will make you pay at the time of service.

Familiar over-the-counter medicines are widely available in Canada. If there is a possibility that you will run out of prescribed medicines during your visit, take along a prescription from your doctor. Have the generic name of prescription medicines in case a local pharmacist is unfamiliar with the brand name. Pack medications in your carry-on luggage and have them in their original containers with pharmacy labels -- otherwise, they may not make it through airport security. If you're entering Canada with syringes used for medical reasons, bring a medical certificate that shows they are for medical use and be sure to declare them to Canadian Customs officials.

If you suffer from a chronic illness, consult your doctor before departure.

Safety

Montréal and Québec City are extremely safe cities, and far safer than their U.S. or European counterparts of similar size. Montréal in 2008, for instance, had 29 homicides for the entire year, the lowest number since police began collecting statistics. Street gang wars, which plague many cities, are nearly nonexistent here.

Still, common sense insists that visitors stay alert and observe the usual urban precautions. It's best to stay out of parks at night and to take a taxi when returning from a late dinner or nightclub.

Québec is one of Canada's more liberal provinces. Mass demonstrations are rare and political violence is unusual. Tolerance of others is a Canadian characteristic, and it's highly unlikely that visitors of ethnic, religious, or racial minorities will encounter even mild forms of discrimination. That applies to sexual orientation, as well, especially in Montréal, which has one of the largest and most visible gay communities in North America.

Tips for Gay and Lesbian Travelers

The province of Québec is a destination for international gay travelers. Gay life here is generally open and accepted (gay marriage is legal throughout the province), and gay travelers are heavily marketed to. Travelers will find the rainbow flag prominently displayed on the doors and websites of many hotels and restaurants in all the city's neighborhoods.

The Tourisme Montréal website, www.tourisme-montreal.org, has a "Gay and Lesbian" link under "Tourist" that lists gay-friendly accommodations, events, websites for queer meet-ups, and more. Of several local queer publications, the most thorough is Fugues (www.fugues.com), which lists events, as well as gay-friendly lodgings, clubs, saunas, and other resources. Free copies are available at tourist offices and in racks around the city. Gay Line (tel. 888/505-1010 or 514/866-5090; www.gayline.qc.ca) is a help line offering advice on over 550 accommodations, events, and services. In Montréal, many gay and lesbian travelers head straight to the Village (also known as "the Gay Village"), a neighborhood east of downtown located primarily along rue Ste-Catherine est between rue St-Hubert and rue Papineau. Here, there are antiques shops, bars, B&Bs, and clubs, clubs, clubs. The Beaudry Métro station is at the heart of the neighborhood and is marked by the rainbow flag. As the Tourisme Montréal website says, "Rainbow columns on a subway station entrance? I've got a feeling we're not in Kansas anymore!" The Village is action central on any night, but it especially picks up during the weeklong celebration of sexual diversity known as Divers/Cité (www.diverscite.org) in late July and early August and the Black & Blue Festival (www.bbcm.org), an October event that's one of the world's largest circuit parties, with a week of entertainment and club dancing. In 2006, Montréal added a pink feather to its cap by hosting the first World Outgames, attracting more than 16,000 athletes. When you're visiting the neighborhood, stop in at the Village Tourism Information Centre at 1307 rue Ste-Catherine est (tel. 888/595-8110 or 514/522-1885), open June to August from noon to 6pm (days vary; call in advance). There's information about everything from wine bars to yoga classes. It's operated by the Québec Gay Chamber of Commerce (www.ccgq.ca).

Getting There

Served by highways, transcontinental trains and buses, and several airports, Montréal is easily accessible from within Canada, the U.S., or overseas.

By Plane

Most of the world’s major airlines fly into the Aéroport International Pierre-Elliott-Trudeau de Montréal (airport code YUL; www.admtl.com; tel 800/465-1213 or 514/394-7377), more commonly known as Montréal-Trudeau Airport.

Tip: Save time and hassle by arranging your flights so that your Customs entry takes place at your final Canadian destination. For instance, if you are flying from the U.S. and have to make one or more stops en route to Canada, try to transfer in the U.S. Otherwise, when you land in Canada you’ll have to collect your bags, pass through Customs, and then check your bags again to continue to your final destination.

Montréal-Trudeau is 21 km (13 miles) from downtown Montréal. The airport is served by Express Bus 747, which debuted in 2010. It operates 24 hours a day, 7 days a week, and runs between the airport and the Berri-UQAM Métro station (the city’s main bus terminal). Its 11 designated stops are mostly along downtown’s boulevard René-Lévesque. A trip takes 45 to 60 minutes, depending on traffic, and buses leave every 20 to 30 minutes. One-way tickets are sold at the airport for C$10 from machines at the international arrivals level. The ticket is good for 24 hours on subways and buses.  In the city, tickets to the airport are available at Métro stations and at the Stationnement de Montréal street parking pay stations (for use within 2 hours). You can also pay with cash on the bus (coins only, exact change). The schedule of stops is at www.stm.info/info/747.htm.

A taxi trip to downtown Montréal costs a flat fare of C$40, plus tip (C$4–$C6). Call tel 514/394-7377 for more information.

Roughly two dozen hotels offer airport shuttles; for a complete list check the airport’s website under “Access and Parking.”

By Bus

Montréal’s central bus station, called Gare d’autocars de Montréal (tel 514/842-2281), is at 1717 rue Berri, near the corner of rue Ontario est. It replaced the city’s old bus station in 2011. Connected to the terminal is Berri-UQAM Station, the junction of several Métro lines. (UQAM—pronounced “Oo-kahm”—stands for Université de Québec à Montréal, which has a large urban campus here). Taxis usually line up outside the terminal building.

By Car

All international drivers must carry a valid driver’s license from their country of residence. A U.S. license is sufficient as long as you are a visitor and actually are a U.S. resident. A U.K. license is sufficient, as well.

In Canada, highway distances and speed limits are given in kilometers (km). The speed limit on the autoroutes is 100kmph (62 mph). Buckle up; there’s a stiff penalty for neglecting to wear your seatbelt. Radar detectors are prohibited in the province of Québec. They can be confiscated, even if they’re not being used.

The drive from Toronto to Montréal is about 5 hours. Most of the route is on the 401 highway (Macdonald-Cartier Hwy.), which you’ll take until you reach “the 20” (Autoroute du Souvenir) at the Ontario-Québec border. From there it’s about an hour to downtown Montréal.

Driving north to Montréal from the U.S., the entire journey is on expressways. From New York City, all but about the last 64km (40 miles) of the 603km (375-mile) trip are within New York State on Interstate 87. I-87 links up with Canada’s Autoroute 15 at the border, which goes straight to Montréal. From Boston, the trip is 518km (322 miles).

The drive from Montréal to Québec City takes about 3 hours. There are two options: Autoroute 40, which runs along the St. Lawrence’s north shore, and Autoroute 20, on the south side (although not hugging the water at all).

Québec became the first province to mandate that residents have radial snow tires on their cars in winter. Visitors and their cars are exempt, but the law does give an indication of how harsh winter driving can be. Consider using snow tires when traveling in the region from November through March.

Members of the American Automobile Association (AAA) are covered by the Canadian Automobile Association (CAA) while driving in Canada.

By Train

If you’re coming from Toronto, you’ll board the train at Union Station, which is downtown and accessible by subway. Montréal is a major terminus on Canada’s VIA Rail network (www.viarail.ca; tel 888/842-7245 or 514/989-2626). Montréal’s station, Gare Centrale, is centrally located downtown at 895 rue de la Gauchetière ouest (tel 514/989-2626). The station is connected to the Métro subway system at Bonaventure Station. (The older Gare Windsor, which you might see on some maps, is the city’s former train station. The castlelike building is now used for offices.)

VIA Rail trains are comfortable—all major routes have Wi-Fi, and some trains are equipped with dining and sleeping cars.

The U.S. train system, Amtrak (www.amtrak.com; tel 800/872-7245), has one train per day to Montréal from New York City’s Penn Station that makes intermediate stops. Called the Adirondack, it’s very slow (11 hours if all goes well, although delays aren’t unusual), but its scenic route passes along the Hudson River’s eastern shore and west of Lake Champlain.

The train ride between Montréal and Québec City takes about 3 hours.

By Boat

Both Montréal and Québec City are stops for cruise ships that travel along the St. Lawrence River (in French, Fleuve St-Laurent). The Port of Montréal, where ships dock, is part of the lively Vieux-Port (Old Port) neighborhood and walking distance from restaurants and shops.

Getting Around

By Foot

Montréal is a terrific walking city. All the neighborhoods listed in this book are compact enough to be easily experienced by foot. Other transportation—Métro, bus, bike, taxi, car—will generally only be necessary when traveling from one neighborhood to another.

When walking, cross only at street corners and only when you have a green light or a walk sign. City police are known to issue tickets to jaywalkers in an attempt to cut down on the number of accidents involving pedestrians.

Travelers in wheelchairs or using strollers will find the city generally accommodating. Sidewalks have curb cuts for easy passage onto the streets.

July 1: Citywide Moving Day -- Montréal is an island of renters, and some 100,000 people move from old apartments to new ones every July 1. Rental leases used to be required to start on that day, chosen in part so that it doesn’t fall within the school year. It’s no longer a mandate, but most leases still start and end on that date. July 1 also coincides with Canada’s National Day, ensuring that separatist-minded Francophone Québécois won’t have time to celebrate that national holiday.

All but certain to be miserably hot and humid, Moving day is a trial that can, nevertheless, be hilarious to observe. See families struggle to get bedroom sets and large appliances down narrow outdoor staircases! Watch sidewalks become obstacle courses of baby cribs, bicycles, and overflowing cardboard boxes! Listen to the cacophony of horns as streets become clogged with every serviceable van, truck, and SUV! Visitors can take advantage of numerous garage sales and trash picking, although you’ll certainly want to avoid driving in residential areas on that day. The whole process provides a good excuse for partying when it’s all over.

By Métro

For speed and economy, nothing beats Montréal’s Métro system, operated by the STM (Société de transport de Montréal). The stations are marked on the street by blue-and-white signs that show a circle enclosing a down-pointing arrow. The Métro is relatively clean, and quiet trains whisk passengers through a decent network. It runs from about 5:30am to 12:30am, Sunday through Friday, and until about 1am on Saturday night (technically Sun morning). Information is available online at www.stm.info or by phone at tel 514/786-4636.

Fares are set by the ride, not by distance. A single ride, on either the bus or Métro, costs C$3. You can purchase tickets for cash only from a booth attendant at a Métro station, where you can buy a set of 10 tickets for C$25.50. Automatic vending machines take credit cards. Tickets serve as proof of payment, so hold onto them for the duration of your trip. Transit police make periodic checks at transfer points or upon exiting and the fine for not having a ticket can run as high as C$500.

One-day and 3-day passes are a good deal if you plan to use the Métro more than twice a day. You get unlimited access to the Métro and bus network for 1 day for C$10 or 3 consecutive days for C$18. The front of the card has scratch-off sections like a lottery card—you scratch out the month and day (or 3 consecutive days) on which you’re using the card. They’re available at select stations; find the list at www.stm.info.

You’ll see locals using the plastic OPUS smart card, on which fares can be loaded on automated machines. Blank OPUS cards must first be purchased for C$6 before any value is loaded onto them, so unless you’re a frequent traveler to the city, the paper tickets and 1- or 3-day passes are your best bets.

To pay, either slip your paper ticket into the slot in the turnstile and take it as it comes out, or show your pass to the booth attendant. A single paper ticket acts as its own transfer ticket; there are 2 hours from the time a ticket is first validated to transfer, and you insert the ticket into the machine of the next bus or Métro train.

Note: Accessibility is limited for wheelchairs and strollers. Accessibility is often difficult for people with mobility restrictions or parents with strollers. Only Métro seven stations have elevators. There can be substantial distances between stations as well. Traveling by bus might be the better option.

Smartphone users can download the STM app for iPhone and Android from the App Store and Google Play. The app provides daily bus and subway schedules and lets users save routes, among other options.

By Bus

Bus fares are the same as fares for Métro trains, and Métro tickets are good on buses, too. Exact change is required if you want to pay on the bus. Buses run throughout the city and give tourists the advantage of traveling aboveground, although they don’t run as frequently or as swiftly as the Métro. Select buses have front-door access ramps for wheelchairs and strollers.

By Bike

Montréal has an exceptionally good system of bike paths, and bicycling is as common for transportation as it is for recreation.

Since 2009, a self-service bicycle rental program called BIXI (www.bixi.com; tel 877/820-2453) has become a big presence in the city. A combination of the words bicyclette and taxi, BIXI is similar to programs in Paris, Barcelona, and Toronto, where users pick up bikes from special BIXI stands throughout the city and drop them off at any other stand, for a small fee. (The company that started the city program declared bankruptcy in early 2014, but the city and other partners swooped in and operations have continued without a hitch to users.) Some 5,000 bikes are in operation and available at 400 stations in Montréal's central boroughs.

While 1-year and 30-day subscriptions are available, visitors can buy a 24-hour access pass for C$5. During those 24 hours, you can borrow bikes as many times as you want. For each trip, the first 45 minutes are free. Trips longer than 45 minutes incur additional charges, which are added onto the initial C$5 fee. Depending on your needs, zipping on and off BIXI bikes throughout the day can be both an economical and a fun way to get around. BIXI operates from April through November before shutting down during the harsh winter months.

If you want a bike for a full day or longer, it will be cheaper to rent from a shop (you’ll also get a helmet and lock, which BIXI doesn’t provide). One of the most centrally located is Ça Roule/Montréal on Wheels (www.caroulemontreal.com; tel 877/866-0633 or 514/866-0633), at 27 rue de la Commune est, the waterfront road in Vieux-Port.

A huge network of bicycle paths runs throughout the city, with whole sections of roads turned into bike lanes during the warm months. The nonprofit biking organization Vélo Québec (www.velo.qc.ca; tel 800/567-8356 or 514/521-8356) offers guided tours throughout the province (vélo means “bicycle” in French).

Passengers can take bicycles on the Métro from 10am to 3pm and after 7pm on weekdays, and all day weekends and holidays. This rule is suspended on special-event days, when trains are too crowded. Board the first car of the train, which can hold a maximum of four bikes (if there are already four bikes on that car, you have to wait for the next train). Details are online at www.stm.info/en/info/advice/bicycles.

Several taxi companies participate in the Taxi+Vélo program. You call, tell them you have a bike to transport, and a cab with a bike rack arrives. Up to three bikes can be carried for an extra fee of C$3 each. Participating companies are at www.velo.qc.ca (search for taxi+vélo); Taxi Diamond (tel 514/273-6331) is one choice.

By Taxi

Cabs come in a variety of colors and styles, so their principal distinguishing feature is the plastic sign on the roof. At night, the sign is illuminated when the cab is available. The initial charge is C$3.30. Each additional kilometer ( 1/2 mile) adds C$1.70, and each minute of waiting adds C63[ce]. A short ride from one point to another downtown usually costs about C$8. Tip about 10 to 15 percent.

Members of hotel and restaurant staffs can call cabs, many of which are dispatched by radio. They line up outside most large hotels or can be hailed on the street.

Montréal taxi drivers range in temperament from unstoppably loquacious to sullen and cranky—just like in any other city. Similarly, some know the city well; others have sketchy geographical knowledge and poor language skills. It’s a good idea to have your destination written down—with the cross street—to show your driver. Also keep in mind that not all drivers accept credit cards.

By Car

Montréal is an easy city to navigate by car, although traffic during morning and late-afternoon rush hour can be heavy.

If you’ve got a smartphone enabled with an international data plan, you can easily use your device’s GPS navigation function (keep in mind that this uses a lot of data roaming). Apps such as NavFree GPS Canada can be used in offline mode to view pre-loaded maps much as you would a traditional paper map.

Downtown Montréal has plenty of metered spaces. Traditional meters are set well back from the curb so they won’t be buried by plowed snow in winter, but you’ll most likely find computerized Pay and Go stations. Look for the black metal kiosks, columns about 1.8m (6 ft.) tall, with a white “P” in a blue circle. Press the “English” button, enter the letter from the space where you are parked, and then pay with cash or a credit card, following the onscreen instructions. Parking costs C$3 to C$4 per hour depending on the neighborhood, and meters are in effect every day until 9pm. Check for signs noting parking restrictions, usually showing a red circle with a diagonal slash.

Most downtown shopping complexes have underground parking lots, as do the big downtown hotels. Some hotels offer in and out privileges, letting you take your car in and out of the garage without a fee—useful if you plan to do some sightseeing by car.

The limited-access expressways in Québec are called autoroutes, with distances given in kilometers (km) and speed limits given in kilometers per hour (kmph). Because French is the province’s official language, most highway signs are only in French, though Montréal’s autoroutes and bridges often bear dual-language signs. In Québec, the highway speed limit is 100 kmph (62 mph). Toll roads are rare.

One traffic light function often confuses newcomers: When you see a green arrow pointing straight ahead instead of a green light, that means pedestrians have the right of way in the intersection. After a moment, the light will turn from an arrow to a regular green light and you can then turn left or right in addition to going straight.

A blinking green light means that oncoming traffic still has a red light, making it safe to make a left turn. Turning right on a red light is prohibited on the island of Montréal, except where specifically allowed by an additional green arrow. Off the island, it is legal to turn right after stopping at red lights, except where there’s a sign specifically prohibiting that move.

Drivers using cellphones are required to have hands-free devices. Radar detectors are illegal in Québec. Even if it’s off, you can be fined for having one in sight.

While most visitors arriving by plane or train will want to rely on public transportation and cabs, a rental carcan come in handy for trips outside of town or if you plan to drive to Québec City. Terms, cars, and prices for car rentals are similar to those in the rest of North America and Europe, and all the major companies operate in Québec. A charge is usually levied when you return a car at a location other than the one from which it was rented. Rental-car agencies are required to provide snow tires on car rentals mid-December until March 15, and many charge an extra fee.

The minimum driving age is 16 in Québec. Many car-rental companies will not rent to people under 25. Others charge higher rates for drivers under the age of 21. Renters under 25 may be asked for a major credit card in their name.

Tips for Senior Travelers

Mention the fact that you're a senior citizen when you make your travel reservations. Many Québec hotels offer discounts for older travelers.

Throughout the province, theaters, museums, and other attractions offer reduced admission to people as young as 60.

Many reliable agencies and organizations target the 50-plus market. Elderhostel (tel. 800/454-5768; www.elderhostel.org) arranges worldwide study programs for those aged 55 and older, and offers a variety of trips to Québec City and Montréal.

The best-selling paperback Unbelievably Good Deals and Great Adventures That You Absolutely Can't Get Unless You're Over 50 (McGraw-Hill), by Joann Rattner Heilman, includes information about Canadian travel.