Planning a trip to Morocco

Sustainable Travel & Ecotourism

Sustainable tourism has become the biggest buzzword within global tourism today. According to the World Tourism Organization, sustainable tourism is tourism that leads to the management of all resources in such a way that economic, social, and aesthetic needs can be fulfilled while maintaining cultural integrity and biological diversity. The objective of sustainable tourism is therefore to retain the economic and social advantages of tourism development while reducing or limiting any undesirable impacts on the natural, historic, cultural or social environment. This is achieved by balancing the needs of tourists with those of the destination. Rather than being a type of product, it is an ethos that should underpin all aspects of tourism development and management rather than being an add-on component.

Truly sustainable tourism is still in its infancy within Morocco, contrary to the marketing of many local and international companies. Moroccans are largely ambivalent toward both their social and environmental footprint, mostly through lack of education but also because it is a luxury that most don't have the time or money to afford. The government is also partly to blame, as most hotel developments seem to be approved no matter the consequences for the environment and the locals. Basic infrastructure such as waste disposal and sewage are also criminally lacking in some parts of the country. The amount of waste that litters many of the country's waterways, beaches, roadsides, and mountains is a sight that Western travelers consistently mention as disappointing and worrying. However, it is only through increasing demand from international visitors that some tour operators, travel agencies, and accommodations are beginning to operate with truly dedicated ecologically and sustainable principles and practices.

The Web-based travel directory responsibletravel.com (tel. 01273/600-030 in the U.K.) lists thousands of "eco holidays" available worldwide, including a vast selection in Morocco. Jane Bayley's Naturally Morocco (tel. 01239/654-466 in the U.K.; www.naturallymorocco.co.uk) is considered the leader in eco-travel in Morocco. This U.K.-based responsible and sustainable tourism operator also has a cultural and environmental center in Taroudannt, from where it offers a range of hands-on cultural and environmental experiences. Clients can choose between diverse themes such as anthropology, language, cooking lessons, architecture, music, art, and wildlife. It also operates as a travel agency, recommending similar-principled accommodations and tours throughout the rest of Morocco. Equatorial Travel (tel. 01335/348-770 in the U.K.; www.equatorialtravel.co.uk) is a small U.K.-based travel company owned by friendly journeyman John-Paul Rodgers. It offers small-group, personalized tours to central and southern Morocco, with a heavy emphasis on the local culture. Besides desert excursions, it also offers an itinerary that culminates in the Essaouira Gnaoua & World Music Festival, a photographic tour escorted by a professional photographer, and itineraries structured toward families. Operating on fair-trade principles and practices, up to 20% of the company's profit is redirected back to the communities with which it works. Tribes Travel (tel. 01728/685-971 in the U.K.; www.tribes.co.uk) is an independent specialist-travel company based in the U.K. operating tailor-made holidays to a number of exotic destinations, including Morocco. It practices fair-trade principles, combining discerning travel with the needs of local communities, intended to protect both biodiversity and cultural diversity. The Tribes Foundation concentrates on poverty alleviation, education, cultural preservation, and conservation projects within the destinations that Tribes Travel operates. The company offers a range of itineraries throughout the majority of Morocco, as well as organizing weekend breaks in Marrakech.

General Resources for Green Travel

In addition to the resources for Morocco listed above, the following websites provide valuable wide-ranging information on sustainable travel. For a list of even more sustainable resources, as well as tips and explanations on how to travel greener, visit www.frommers.com/planning.

• Sustainable Travel International (www.sustainabletravelinternational.org) promotes ethical tourism practices, and manages an extensive directory of sustainable properties and tour operators around the world.

Tips for Travelers with Disabilities

Unfortunately, Morocco offers very little assistance to people with disabilities, and traveling in the country requires a certain amount of adventurous spirit, good humor, and determination. There are no services for those with disabilities or adapted transport, and there's a distinct lack of adapted infrastructure, such as wheelchair-friendly ramps, signs in Braille, or beeping and flashing pedestrian crossings. Moroccans are usually very supportive of those with disabilities and generally willing to assist without looking for something in return.

The most difficulty faced by wheelchair-bound travelers will be daily challenges such as crowded pavements, busy streets, drivers with no regard for pedestrians, and rutted medina alleys. If choosing between the major cultural cities of Fes and Marrakech as your prime destination, I recommend the relatively flat Marrakech as opposed to Fes, with its hillside medina, steep lanes, and multitude of steps. Traveling by private car or as part of an organized tour will be the best way to get around Morocco. Bus and train travel will be difficult due to the steps that will have to be negotiated and the lack of wheelchair-friendly areas once you're on. If you do travel by public transport, I recommend grands taxis.

All travelers with disabilities should be aware that very few hotels offer adapted accommodations. Not all hotels have elevators, but there are usually ground-floor rooms. Maisons d'hôte by their very nature are usually old houses with steep, narrow staircases and are located in difficult corners of the medina. Some will be accessible for wheelchairs and may have adequate-size ground-floor rooms, but on the whole the more feasible accommodations options will be found in the new hotels, especially in Agadir and Marrakech.

Organizations that offer a vast range of resources and assistance to travelers with disabilities include MossRehab (tel. 800/CALL-MOSS [225-5567]; www.mossresourcenet.org); the American Foundation for the Blind (AFB; tel. 800/232-5463; www.afb.org); and SATH (Society for Accessible Travel & Hospitality; tel. 212/447-7284; www.sath.org). AirAmbulanceCard.com is now partnered with SATH and allows you to preselect top-notch hospitals in case of an emergency.

Access-Able Travel Source (tel. 303/232-2979; www.access-able.com) offers a comprehensive database of travel agents from around the world with experience in accessible travel; destination-specific access information; and links to such resources as service animals, equipment rentals, and access guides.

Many travel agencies offer customized tours and itineraries for travelers with disabilities. Among them are Flying Wheels Travel (tel. 507/451-5005; www.flyingwheelstravel.com) and Accessible Journeys (tel. 800/846-4537 or 610/521-0339; www.disabilitytravel.com).

Flying with Disability (www.flying-with-disability.org) is a comprehensive information source on airplane travel. Avis Rent A Car (tel. 888/879-4273) has the Avis Access program that offers services for customers with special travel needs. These include specially outfitted vehicles with swivel seats, spinner knobs, and hand controls; mobility scooter rentals; and accessible bus service. Not all of these will be available in Morocco, and be sure to reserve well in advance.

Also check out the quarterly magazine Emerging Horizons (www.emerginghorizons.com), available by subscription ($17 a year in the U.S., $22 elsewhere).

The "Accessible Travel" link at Mobility-Advisor.com offers a variety of travel resources to persons with disabilities.

British travelers should contact Holiday Care (tel. 0845-124-9971 in the U.K. only; www.holidaycare.org.uk) to access a wide range of travel information and resources for those with disabilities and the elderly.

Health & Insurance

Staying Healthy

Traveling in Morocco generally presents no serious health concerns. If there is one constant health concern, it's that of traveler's diarrhea, sometimes dubbed "Morocco belly."

General Availability of Healthcare -- No compulsory vaccinations are required to enter Morocco, though travelers arriving from cholera-infected areas may be asked for proof of vaccine, and it's always wise to be up-to-date with your tetanus and typhoid vaccines. Due to the aforementioned stomach distress, it's always good to bring along a course of anti-diarrhea tablets and oral rehydration sachets, although these are usually readily available from the country's pharmacies. Moroccan pharmacists are very well trained, and regularly act as the village doctor. They dispense a far wider range of drugs than their colleagues in the West, and can usually assist with most travelers' ailments. If you need the attention of a doctor, they can usually recommend one for you, and some even have a doctor on-site. Moroccan doctors -- private and public -- are very professional, with most having studied in France.

The level of hospital care in Morocco tends to be dictated by the location. Privately run polycliniques generally offer first-world facilities and can be found in most larger towns and cities. State hospitals are notoriously underfunded and are best visited only for minor injuries; however, they may be the only option if you are in rural regions. For serious illnesses or injuries, contact your embassy for advice.

Note: Almost without exception, you will have to pay upfront and in cash for any medical treatment and then make a claim on any travel insurance once you return home. Remember to get receipts for any treatment or medication.

Contact the International Association for Medical Assistance to Travelers (IAMAT; tel. 716/754-4883, or 416/652-0137 in Canada; www.iamat.org) for tips on travel and health concerns in the countries you're visiting, and for lists of local, English-speaking doctors. The United States Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (tel. 800/311-3435; www.cdc.gov) provides up-to-date information on health hazards by region or country and offers tips on food safety. Travel Health Online (www.tripprep.com), sponsored by a consortium of travel medicine practitioners, may also offer helpful advice on traveling abroad. You can find listings of reliable medical clinics overseas at the International Society of Travel Medicine (www.istm.org).

Common Ailments

Morocco Belly -- Traveler's diarrhea (locally known as Morocco belly) is the most common ailment suffered by Westerners while traveling in Morocco. As with similar destinations around the world, there's only so much that can be done to try to avoid an upset stomach. Some people religiously stay away from street food, others never order a salad and drink only bottled water, while others eat only peeled or cooked food. All of these are good ideas and recommended -- however, I've still seen the most cautious of travelers fall victim. It can happen simply because your body isn't used to the unfamiliar cuisine, or perhaps from a little bout of travel fatigue.

For many, however, traveler's diarrhea is a direct result of dehydration. Morocco's summer months are often oppressively hot -- especially for those arriving from more temperate climes -- and can sometimes be too much for the body to cope with. Even at other times of the year, Morocco's delightfully warm temperature can disguise the strong effect that the sun can have.

Once you arrive, increasing your daily intake of water is the most effective way to keep Morocco belly at bay. I always recommend two large bottles per day, which takes a bit of effort for those not used to drinking so much water. Most tap water is drinkable, but bottled water is available everywhere, inexpensive, and recommended. If you do suffer from a dose of diarrhea, it's important (especially for children) to replace lost body fluids and salts. Oral rehydration salts, available in any pharmacy, will help. Moroccans swear by a tablespoonful of ground cumin washed down with a swig of water.

It pays to adapt your diet as well. Steer clear from fatty foods, caffeine, alcohol, and dairy products (except yogurt). Eat plain boiled rice or plain steamed couscous, yogurt, and dried biscuits. For a serious dose of diarrhea, start taking an antibiotic and an anti-diarrhea agent.

Note: Mountain and desert trekkers should avoid drinking from rivers and streams, as cases of giardiasis are common. If you must, be sure to boil the water sufficiently or purify it with iodine tablets.

Bugs, Bites & Other Wildlife Concerns -- The existence of malaria is officially denied by Moroccan authorities, but other sources report very occasional summertime cases in a few of the more northern reaches of the country. Personally, I've never heard of, or seen, anyone suffering from malaria in Morocco. Cover up from dusk until dawn and use good mosquito repellent, and you shouldn't have anything to worry about.

Morocco's Saharan ergs and the surrounding stony hammada are home to a number of scorpions and snakes. Although very few of the country's scorpions are venomous -- a notable exception being the decidedly nasty Androctonus australis -- the sting can still be extremely painful, especially if you are allergic. The same goes for the country's snakes, which other than the largely nocturnal and terrestrial Saharan horned viper, are mostly nonvenomous. The chances of coming across a snake, however, are slim. All snakes, without exception, are greatly feared by ordinary Moroccans, and no distinction is drawn between venomous and nonvenomous species. Snakes are invariably killed whenever and wherever they are found. To be safe, wear closed footwear when outdoors, and shake them out before putting them on. If bitten, try to stay calm and seek medical help as quickly as possible.

Rabies cases are rare but do occur in Morocco. Vaccination against rabies doesn't mean you're immune, and it's worth seeking medical advice if you're bitten.

High-Altitude Hazards -- More travelers are making day trips from Marrakech to the Jebel Toubkal trail head village of Imlil, which sits 1,740m (5,709 ft.) above sea level. Most people are fine at this altitude, but it's worth knowing your limits and realizing some people may be a little short of breath. For hard-core trekkers who don't wish to spend a day in the village acclimatizing, be aware that the Toubkal-Neltner refuge sits at 3,207m (10,521 ft.) and the Jebel Toubkal peak at 4,167m (13,671 ft.). Altitude sickness, or acute mountain sickness (AMS), can occur as low as 2,500m (8,202 ft.), but serious symptoms don't usually occur until above 3,600m (11,811 ft.). The main cause of altitude sickness is going too high too quickly, and can generally be avoided by planning a sensible trek that allows for gradual altitude acclimatization. Given enough time, your body will adapt to the decrease in oxygen at a specific altitude. Trekking up to 3,000m (9,843 ft.), many people will experience mild AMS. The symptoms -- headache, appetite loss, extreme fatigue, and nausea -- usually start 12 to 24 hours after arrival at altitude and begin to decrease in severity around the third day. It's important to stay properly hydrated when mountain trekking -- experts advise 4 to 6 liters of water per day -- and avoid tobacco, alcohol, and depressant drugs such as sleeping pills. Remember the easiest and quickest way to lessen AMS is to descend.

Sun/Elements/Extreme Weather Exposure -- The weather extremes in Morocco can be surprising for some. During the colder months of November to February, the country can experience European-like cold spells bringing cold, wet, and sometimes snowy weather to many regions. Travel through those same regions from June to September, however, and Morocco fulfils its image as a land fringed by Saharan sands and harsh, barren mountains. It's during these hot months that travelers should try to limit their exposure to the sun -- especially during the first few days after arrival and at high altitudes -- during the heat of the day. Wear a hat and use sunscreen with a high protection factor (SPF 30+), and remember that children are more susceptible to heat exhaustion and dehydration than adults.

What to Do If You Get Sick Away from Home

In Morocco, you will have to pay all medical costs upfront and in cash. Before leaving home, find out what medical services your health insurance covers. To protect yourself, consider buying medical travel insurance.

Very few health insurance plans pay for medical evacuation back to your country of origin. A number of companies offer medical evacuation services anywhere in the world. If you're ever hospitalized more than 240km (150 miles) from home, MedjetAssist (tel. 800/527-7478 in the U.S.; www.medjetassistance.com) will pick you up and fly you to the hospital of your choice virtually anywhere in the world in a medically equipped and staffed aircraft 24 hours day, 7 days a week. Annual memberships are $225 individual, $350 family; you can also purchase short-term memberships.

Staying Safe

Morocco is a relatively safe country in which to travel, and the majority of Moroccans are hospitable, friendly, and law abiding. That said, there are some issues that travelers should be aware of.

In April 2007, two suicide bombings took place outside the U.S. Consulate and the private American Language Center, respectively. There is some conjecture as to whether these were the work of an organized terror group with international links. In 2003, a series of coordinated suicide bombings also occurred in Casablanca, targeting buildings with either Jewish or Western connections. Both of these incidents provoked outrage and disbelief amongst ordinary Moroccans. Although most sympathize with the plight of their Arab neighbors in Palestine and Iraq, there is an accepted distinction between Western travelers and their governments' policies. Other than not coming to Morocco at all -- which would be an unnecessary overreaction -- travelers are best advised to keep up-to-date with current events during their travels. Before you depart, check for travel advisories for your home country.

Violent crime is generally minimal in Morocco, although there have been incidents of tourists being robbed at knife point in various cities and at nighttime on some tourist beaches. Most crimes that occur are acts of sexual harassment and nonconfrontational theft. Pickpocketing, purse snatching, and theft from vehicles are the most common. These are more likely to occur in the country's cities and large towns, crowded medinas, bus and train stations, and beaches, but it pays to be vigilant everywhere. Be particularly alert when withdrawing money from ATMs, and be aware of some of the common tactics used by petty criminals, such as distracting you with questions and small talk while an accomplice is deftly emptying your pockets or backpack. If your hotel offers a safekeeping area, use it. Otherwise, take away the temptation that might present itself by locking valuables in your bag or suitcase.

Westerners driving rental cars generally stick out and are easily spotted by thieves, so it goes without saying that you shouldn't leave anything of value in an unattended car.

Traveling by train or long-distance bus is generally considered safe, though it pays to keep one eye on your luggage at each stop. Women travelers should look for seats close to those occupied by Moroccan women. The country's taxis -- both petit and grand -- are considered generally crime-free, but may be poorly maintained and driven recklessly (a request of "beshwïya" ["slowly"] may or may not be heeded). Traveling on a crowded city bus can be unsafe.

Hustlers & Faux Guides -- Morocco's infamous hustlers and unofficial guides come in many different guises, from baby-face students to well-dressed gentlemen. Hustlers or touts tend to pounce on travelers who are looking lost or newly arrived, and will proceed to tell all sorts of horror stories such as that the buses aren't operating, the hotel is closed, your desired destination isn't safe, or you are walking in the wrong direction. These men are tricksters, con men, thieves, even drug dealers. Their sole mission is to glean you of your money, and they are a very unfortunate part of many travelers' tales. Leading you to particular hotels, shops, and sometimes even restaurants usually means some commission coming their way. Unofficial guides -- called faux guides -- are generally less intimidating, if not slightly more annoying. For most, guiding is the only profession they know, and the only reason they aren't officially qualified is for socioeconomic reasons. Some can be very entertaining and knowledgeable, but most are very persistent to get any business from you, sometimes resorting to a hustler's tactics. Although a stronger police presence in recent years (thanks largely to the establishment of the Brigade Touristique) has removed a lot of hustlers and faux guides from the streets, it can appear at times that they have found other ways and means to continue their profession. Travelers that I've spoken to recently related incidences where they encountered hustlers and faux guides on the trains, especially those traveling to Fes and Marrakech, and on the ferries coming from mainland Spain. Bus and train stations, largely unpatrolled by the Brigade Touristique, continue to be a hangout for many.

Getting rid of hustlers and faux guides can become a difficult and frustrating task. Some confrontations can become ugly, with the hustler becoming verbally abusive and accusing the traveler of racism toward Muslims. The best approach is to keep your sense of humor and initially ignore the unwanted attention entirely, followed by continuous, polite, and direct rebukes if necessary.

Drugs -- Morocco has strict penalties for those caught purchasing, using, or dealing drugs. This includes kif, as the local marijuana is called. However, kif is smoked by many Moroccan men, especially in the northwest part of the country. Historically, the Moroccan police took a fairly lenient attitude toward its consumption, but in recent years there have been sporadic but concerted efforts to curb its use, including the arrest of foreigners caught indulging. Spanish border police are also known to prosecute travelers (suspected as traffickers) caught in possession of kif as they enter the country from Morocco.

Police -- The Moroccan police force is still styled on the French system, comprising the Surété National, who wear navy blue uniforms and are responsible for enforcing the law in urban areas, and the Gendarmerie, who wear gray uniforms and are to be found in the rural areas and at major road junctions and town entrances. In some of the major cities, such as Fes, Marrakech, and Tangier, there is a Brigade Touristique, which has been specifically formed to curtail the actions of touts and faux guides. Generally, law-enforcement officers in Morocco are polite to travelers, although they often ask to see your identification, preferably a passport, and, if driving, obviously a driver's license. Their overall helpfulness, however, can be limited, especially concerning action over theft. Usually, they are quite happy to complete a police report for travel-insurance purposes, but actual efforts to retrieve the stolen goods may be laborious at best.

Tips for Single Travelers

Morocco is a popular destination for solo travelers, especially backpackers. Moroccans are very friendly, and traveling alone among them on public transport has brought about many memorable conversations and experiences. If at any time you would prefer some company or a traveling companion, there are always plenty of fellow travelers around, especially in Essaouira, Fes, and Marrakech. Single female travelers may encounter some harassment, however. Although single room rates are not stated in the accommodations listings within this guidebook, most accommodations will offer a discounted rate to solo travelers.

On package vacations, single travelers are often hit with a "single supplement" to the base price. To avoid it, you can agree to room with other single travelers or find a compatible roommate before you go from one of the many roommate-locator agencies.

TravelChums (tel. 212/787-2621; www.travelchums.com) is an Internet-only travel-companion matching service with elements of an online personals-type site, hosted by the respected New York-based Shaw Guides travel service.

Many reputable tour companies offer singles-only trips. Backroads (tel. 800/462-2848; www.backroads.com) offers "Singles + Solos" active-travel trips to destinations worldwide, including Morocco. Overseas Adventure Travel regularly offers low and free single supplements on their tours to Morocco.

For more information, check out Eleanor Berman's classic Traveling Solo: Advice and Ideas for More Than 250 Great Vacations (Globe Pequot), updated in 2005, or go to www.frommers.com/planning.

Visitor Information

Morocco's national tourism board, the Office National Marocain de Tourisme (ONMT), maintains several offices abroad including:

In the U.S.: 20 E. 46th St., Ste. 1201, New York, NY 10017 (tel. 212/557-2520), and P.O. Box 2263, Lake Buena Vista, Orlando, FL 38230 (tel. 407/827-5335).

In the U.K.: 205 Regent St., London, W1R 7DE (tel. 020/7437-0073).

In Australia: 11 West St., North Sydney, NSW, 2060 (tel. 02/9922-4999).

In Canada: Place Montréal Trust, 1800 rue McGill College, Ste. 2450, Montreal, PQ H3A 2A6 (tel. 514/842-8111).

These are really only general information offices and will be able to offer you some glossy pamphlets, perhaps a map of Morocco, and a list of tour operators offering trips to Morocco. You're as likely to get just as much useful information from their websites, www.visitmorocco.org and www.tourisme.gov.ma.

Within Morocco, you'll find an ONMT office, or a small Syndicat d'Initiative bureau, in most cities and large towns. Look for their addresses and alternative, destination-specific options in each relevant chapter's "Fast Facts." Unfortunately, their usefulness mirrors that of the international offices. Some useful websites include:

• www.oncf.ma: Train timetables and ticket prices.
• www.map.ma/eng: English-language website for Maghreb Arabe Presse.
• http://morocco.marweb.ma: English-language Moroccan online newspaper.
• www.yacout.info: An excellent English-language e-magazine covering a wide range of topics and issues in Morocco.
• www.legation.org: Among other things, the website of the Tangier American Legation Museum provides information on upcoming cultural and social events, and provides a link to "Friends of Morocco," an organization fostering good relations between Americans and Moroccans.
• http://riadzany.blogspot.com: Moroccan lifestyle e-zine based in Fez.
• http://theviewfrommorocco.blogspot.com: Includes reviews on Moroccan restaurants, bars, nightlife, and day tours.
• http://moroccankitchen.blogspot.com: The blog of two Moroccan women who operate a riad in Fes; includes recipes.
• www.amazigh-voice.com: Berber culture, history, and politics.

For Morocco maps, I've always used the Morocco GeoCenter World Country Map, which includes distances (in kilometers only) between most urban centers and major road junctions on major and secondary roads. It's available at Maps Worldwide (www.mapsworldwide.com) and Stanford's (www.stanfords.co.uk).

Guide or No Guide? -- Any conversation amongst travelers in Morocco inevitably leads to relating personal experiences about the country's guides. Some people are overflowing in praise, while others are decidedly not. The first question I'm often asked is, "Do I need a guide?" The answer largely depends on what you want to see and how much time you have to see it. If you're an independent traveler with plenty of days to spare and a decent map in your hands, then even the seemingly unnavigable medinas of Fes and Marrakech can be explored without a guide, taking into account the numerous wrong turns and dead ends that you will no doubt experience. Unfortunately, each time you stop to consult a map or your guidebook, you'll likely be interrupted by a steady stream of hustlers and faux guides ever eager to assist you.

If you're on more of a time constraint, then hiring a guide for at least half a day is recommended, especially for Fes and Marrakech. At the least, this allows you to get oriented before setting out on your own exploration. Personally, I don't think a guide is necessary for any of Morocco's other medinas or cities. Keep in mind that hustlers and faux guides tend to leave you alone when you are in the company of an official guide.

If you do hire a guide, I strongly recommend hiring an official guide. Official guides have been properly trained, vetted by the Moroccan National Tourism Board (ONMT), and (in the case of English-speaking guides) are understood easily. All of these benefits are not guaranteed in the case of a faux guide. Official guides will also be more relaxed and will walk alongside you while dispensing their knowledge. Faux guides, fearful of incurring the wrath of the Brigade Touristique , usually walk two or three steps in front of their clients so as to not appear as if they are guiding. It's true that many faux guides are simply looking for work in a country with high unemployment and low social welfare and are unfairly treated. However, the Moroccan tourism authorities have recently recruited and licensed more guides, and I feel it is only fair to employ the services of those who have made the effort to become official. Official guides can be hired from tourist offices and most good hotels, and are mentioned throughout this guide. They can identify themselves by a brass badge or laminated card. Decide beforehand what you want to see and do, and then discuss this with your guide before agreeing on an itinerary and cost.

It's true that guides -- official or otherwise -- receive up to 40% commission from shopkeepers in return for bringing them clients. This commission is invariably added on to the cost of your purchase. If you don't want to visit any shops, then be clear and firm about this before setting out with your guide. If you do want to visit some shops, however, perhaps concentrate less on how much commission your guide will receive and more on what a great opportunity it is to find out more about the item.

The current rate for an official guide is 300dh for half a day and 500dh for a full day. This is not a per-person cost, though if you are a large group then it's expected you will add on a bit more, say 100dh. If you are being guided for a whole day, then you are expected to pay for the guide's lunch. If you are eating at one of the guide's preferred restaurants, however, lunch will most probably be given to the guide for free. For a guided tour devoid of any shops -- and hence the chance for the guide to earn any extra money -- I advise offering to pay more for his services before you depart. This will hopefully negate any sly attempts to direct you into a shop while on tour. Should you be pleased with the service provided by your guide, feel free to tip as a form of encouragement for the guide to continue with his high standards and low hassle.

Tips for Student Travelers

Youth or student cards can sometimes get you a discount on entry to various sights, including museums, in Morocco. They can be used when booking domestic flights with the national air carrier, Royal Air Maroc, which offers up to 60% discounts. Discounted travel on the country's trains is also available, but this involves paying and applying for a separate card at the train station.

The International Student Travel Confederation (ISTC; www.istc.org) was formed in 1949 to make global travel more affordable for students. Check out its website for comprehensive travel services information and details on how to get an International Student Identity Card (ISIC), which qualifies students for substantial savings on rail passes, plane tickets, entrance fees, and more. It also provides students with basic health and life insurance and a 24-hour help line. The card is valid for a maximum of 18 months. You can apply for the card online or in person at STA Travel (tel. 800/781-4040 in North America; www.statravel.com), the biggest student travel agency in the world; check out the website to locate STA Travel offices worldwide. If you're no longer a student but are still 25 or under, you can get an International Youth Travel Card (IYTC) from STA, which entitles you to some discounts. Travel CUTS (tel. 800/592-2887; www.travelcuts.com) offers similar services for both Canadians and U.S. residents. Irish students may prefer to turn to USIT (tel. 01/602-1904; www.usit.ie), an Ireland-based specialist in student, youth, and independent travel.

Escorted & Package Tours

The number of tour operators offering escorted excursions of Morocco—both international and Moroccan—seems to increase each year. This is undoubtedly a good thing for Morocco, but it can be a bit overwhelming when trying to decide who to trust with your travel plans. Below is a list of recommended tour operators that may help narrow down the options.

U.S. & U.K. Companies

• Abercrombie & Kent is one of the world's leading luxury tour operators, and has been organizing quality travel itineraries and group tours since 1962. Morocco tours take in the major sights from Casablanca to Marrakech.

• Adventures Abroad prides itself on operating quality, small-group holidays worldwide in three categories: active, cultural, and family. The company offers tours of Morocco, as well as visits to the country within tours of Spain, Portugal, and Tunisia.

• Audley Travel arranges personalized tours for the discerning traveler based on each client's particular interests. Audley's North Africa and Arabia department can tailor itineraries to specific regions of Morocco such as Fes and the north, Marrakech and the mountains, central Morocco, or a combination of all three.

• Authentic Morocco is a U.K.-based company specializing in personalized custom itineraries to Morocco with well-respected English-speaking guides. Experiences may include spending New Year's Eve in the desert or taking specialized photographic tours.

• The Best of Morocco is a Moroccan specialist based in the U.K. with an office in Marrakech. The company has been organizing tailor-made holidays to Morocco for more than 40 years, and now offers an extensive selection of accommodations, itineraries (both general and specialist), and general information.

• Epic Travel specializes in high-quality, small-group mountain biking, walking, and horse-riding tours in Morocco. Experiences focus on culture, food, and adventure. You can combine hiking and biking or opt for a customized tour.

• Gateway2Morocco offers personalized tours. Based in the U.S., the company compiles varied itineraries involving arts and culture, golfing, Jewish heritage, outdoor adventures, and romance.

• Martin Randall Travel is considered one of the U.K.'s leading cultural travel specialists, with scores of art, music, archaeology, history, and architecture tours to Europe, the Middle East, and beyond. Groups are accompanied by expert lecturers.

• Overseas Adventure Travel specializes in natural history and "soft-adventure" tours, with optional add-on excursions. Tours are led by naturalists.

• Trafalgar Tours has been operating since 1947 and offers holiday packages worldwide, including quality escorted coach tours to Morocco. Itineraries include the imperial cities and some of central Morocco. Some tours of Spain and Portugal also travel across the Straits of Gibraltar to visit parts of Morocco.

Morocco-Based Companies

• Blue Men of Morocco offers a range of itineraries, including combinations of Morocco with southern Moorish Spain. The company is renowned for going that extra mile for clients.

• Compass Odyssey is a safari company specializing in low-impact, small-group escorted tours of Morocco and Southern Africa. Cultural experiences are designed to benefit locals as well as travelers.

• Mountain Voyage Morocco puts together escorted itineraries by land or air and also offers private villa rentals and event coordination for corporate and private clients.

• Naturally Morocco is a responsible and sustainable tourism operator offering personalized tours, activities, and accommodations within Morocco.

Entry Requirements & Customs

Passports

Every non-Moroccan visitor to Morocco requires a current passport, valid for at least 6 months from the date of entry and with a minimum of two blank pages. Children traveling on a parent's passport must have a recent photograph affixed to the passport; if this isn't done, the whole family is at risk of being denied entry. All visitors are given a 90-day entry upon arrival. Extensions are possible, but time-consuming. You must visit the nearest Préfécture de Police (police headquarters) with your passport, four passport-size photos, and a letter from your embassy requesting a visa extension on your behalf. The process can take hours or even days, and usually involves an indefinite amount of bureaucracy depending on the whim of the police involved. It may prove easier to simply cross over to the Spanish enclaves of Ceuta or Melilla in Morocco's north or across the Straits to mainland Spain and reenter Morocco after a day or two. Moroccan immigration officers are usually very courteous, if at times a bit rigid. Sometimes there are not enough of them on duty at the major airports and long queues ensue. An arrival form needs to be completed for immigration. This form asks for your name, date of birth, passport details, occupation, your hotel address in Morocco, and the amount of money you have with you. State how much cash you are carrying, along with any credit/debit cards you have.

Note: An occupation of "journalist" or "writer" entered on your arrival form can potentially lead to extended questioning as to your intentions while in Morocco. Choosing an occupation less threatening is advised. It's always best to carry around your passport -- or at least a copy of the most relevant pages -- while in Morocco. Police checks are numerous throughout the country, and usually the only thing they want to do is look at your passport, ask where you're from, and welcome you to Morocco.

See www.frommers.com/planning for information on how to obtain a passport. For other information, please contact the following agencies:

For Residents of Australia -- Contact the Australian Passport Information Service at tel. 131-232, or visit the government website at www.passports.gov.au.

For Residents of Canada -- Contact the central Passport Office, Department of Foreign Affairs and International Trade, Ottawa, ON K1A 0G3 (tel. 800/567-6868; www.ppt.gc.ca).

For Residents of Ireland -- Contact the Passport Office, Setanta Centre, Molesworth Street, Dublin 2 (tel. 01/671-1633; www.irlgov.ie/iveagh).

For Residents of New Zealand -- Contact the Passports Office at tel. 0800/225-050 in New Zealand or 04/474-8100, or log on to www.passports.govt.nz.

For Residents of the United Kingdom -- Visit your nearest passport office, major post office, or travel agency or contact the United Kingdom Passport Service at tel. 0870/521-0410 or search its website at www.ukpa.gov.uk.

For Residents of the United States -- To find your regional passport office, either check the U.S. State Department website or call the National Passport Information Center toll-free number (tel. 877/487-2778) for automated information.

Visas

Most visitors to Morocco don't need a visa, including citizens from Australia, Canada, New Zealand, the United Kingdom, the United States, and the European Union, including Ireland. Currently, the most notable exceptions are Israeli, South African, and Zimbabwean citizens.

Customs

What You Can Bring into Morocco -- All visitors to Morocco may bring in, free of duty, the following: (1) tobacco (200 cigarettes/100 cigarillos/25 cigars), (2) 1 liter of alcohol, (3) 150ml of perfume/250ml of eau de toilette, (4) 2,000dh worth of gifts, (5) personal electrical and photographic goods, musical instruments, and nonmotorized sports equipment.

What You Can Take Out of Morocco -- Visitors are allowed to travel out of Morocco with locally made crafts and souvenirs, including a reasonable number (not in the dozens) of fossilized, ornamental, and semiprecious stones. Objets d'art and antiques theoretically require signed authorization from the Ministry of Culture, though this is only required for expensive or large items, and will be taken care of if purchased from any reputable shop owner. Note: It is forbidden to import/export the national currency, the Moroccan dirham.

For further details regarding Moroccan customs procedures, visit the Moroccan Ministry for Foreign Affairs and Cooperation website (www.maec.gov.ma; click on "Consular Action" in the English version).

What You Can Take Home from Morocco -- For information on what you're allowed to bring home, contact one of the following agencies:

U.S. Citizens: U.S. Customs & Border Protection (CBP), 1300 Pennsylvania Ave. NW, Washington, DC 20229 (tel. 877/287-8667; www.cbp.gov).

Canadian Citizens: Canada Border Services Agency (tel. 800/461-9999 in Canada, or 204/983-3500; www.cbsa-asfc.gc.ca).

U.K. Citizens: HM Customs & Excise at tel. 0845/010-9000 (from outside the U.K., 020/8929-0152), or consult their website at www.hmce.gov.uk.

Australian Citizens: Australian Customs Service at tel. 1300/363-263, or log on to www.customs.gov.au.

New Zealand Citizens: New Zealand Customs, the Customhouse, 17-21 Whitmore St., Box 2218, Wellington (tel. 04/473-6099 or 0800/428-786; www.customs.govt.nz).

Medical Requirements

No compulsory vaccinations are required to enter Morocco, though travelers arriving from cholera-infected areas may be asked for proof of vaccine. It is always wise to be up-to-date with your immunization status for tetanus, polio, diphtheria, typhoid, rabies, and hepatitis A.

The only inoculation requirement is a yellow fever vaccination certificate for travelers 2 years of age and over entering Morocco within 6 days of leaving an infected country. Visitors who travel through or disembark in these areas are advised to be inoculated against the disease before visiting Morocco.

Moroccan authorities officially deny the existence of malaria, but other sources report very occasional summertime cases in a few of the more northern reaches of the country. Rabies cases are very uncommon, but do still occur. Vaccination against rabies doesn't provide absolute immunity, however, so it's worth seeking medical advice before you leave, should you be concerned.

Tips on Dining

Moroccan cuisine reflects the country's history, with elements of Africa, Arabia, and the Mediterranean adding spice and color to a rich array of fresh produce available throughout the country. Combined with the culinary traditions of both the Berbers and Arabs, dining in Morocco truly becomes an experience rather than just a meal.

Moroccans tend to eat three meals a day, in similar fashion to the Western world, but usually taken after prayer. Breakfast is usually served from 7am onward, with most cafes opening at this time and serving a small selection of pastries and fresh bread to accompany a mint tea or coffee. Western travelers often despair at the lack of diversity when it comes to hotel breakfasts; expect baguettes, croissants, orange juice, tea and coffee, and not much else in most lower- to midrange accommodations. Staying in higher-end accommodations should reward you with additions to the norm, such as fresh Moroccan breads, yogurt, cereals, fresh fruit, and perhaps eggs.

Lunch is considered the most important meal of the day, hence the midday closure of most businesses, shops, and offices from noon to 2pm, sometimes 2:30pm. It's therefore also the longest meal, and can include any number of courses. The traditional lunch -- often offered by top-end and palace-style restaurants -- begins with a meze selection of olives and cold and cooked salads, and can fill you up on its own. This is usually followed by a tagine, couscous, or both. Rarely will Moroccans use cutlery; rather they will eat with their freshly washed right hand (the left mainly used for passing food around), using khübz (bread) to mop up the juices and sauce. Mint tea, and perhaps sweet pastries, may then be offered for dessert, followed by an early afternoon nap.

Dinner tends to be served after the sunset prayer, and is more along Mediterranean and Latin times, from 7 or 7:30pm to 10:30 or 11pm. A popular pastime in Morocco -- and one I am particularly fond of -- is an after-dinner stroll, followed by an ice cream or cake and coffee. Families are usually in the streets, squares, and parks after dinner to socialize, play, chat, and generally watch and mingle.

I have separated restaurant listings throughout this guide into four price categories based on the average cost per person of a meal, not including tip. The categories are Very Expensive, more than 240dh; Expensive, 160dh to 240dh; Moderate, 80dh to 160dh; and Inexpensive, less than 80dh. A compulsory 10% government tax (called TTC) is usually included in the cost of each item on your menu. If it isn't, it's normally stated somewhere at the bottom. Very rarely, however, will a service charge be included in your bill, so a tip of at least 10% is expected, no matter if you've had a meal or just a drink. Expensive restaurants are usually the only ones that accept credit cards, and even those that claim to can sometimes bring your card back asking for payment in cash, usually due to telecommunication problems or, I kid you not, because they've run out of paper in the credit card machine. Also watch out for a 5% bank administration fee that is sometimes added to your bill.

Because Morocco is a predominantly Muslim country, alcohol is not served at all restaurants; I have noted where it's available in the review's listing information.

Tips for Senior Travelers

Moroccans as a whole greatly respect the contributions and wisdom of society's elders, but unfortunately that consideration doesn't necessarily translate into automatic deferential treatment of senior tourists. While senior travelers on an organized tour will be treated with respect and patience, traveling by public transport produces very little of either when it comes to finding a seat. There are no special discounts offered to senior travelers in Morocco, apart from fare reductions offered by some ferry companies plying the route to/from Spain.

Seniors should also pay particular attention to the daytime temperatures during summertime.

Members of AARP, 601 E St. NW, Washington, DC 20049 (tel. 888/687-2277; www.aarp.org), get discounts on hotels, airfares, and car rentals. AARP offers members a wide range of benefits, including AARP The Magazine and a monthly newsletter. Anyone over 50 can join.

Many reliable agencies and organizations target the 50-plus market. Elderhostel (tel. 800/454-5768; www.elderhostel.org) arranges worldwide study programs for those aged 55 and over, including an escorted tour to Morocco. ElderTreks (tel. 800/741-7956 or 416/558-5000 outside North America; www.eldertreks.com) offers small-group tours to off-the-beaten-path or adventure-travel locations, including Morocco, restricted to travelers 50 and older.

Recommended publications offering travel resources and discounts for seniors include the quarterly magazine Travel 50 & Beyond (www.travel50andbeyond.com) and the best-selling paperback Unbelievably Good Deals and Great Adventures That You Absolutely Can't Get Unless You're Over 50 2005-2006 (McGraw-Hill), by Joann Rattner Heilman.

Getting Around

Getting around this compact country is pretty straightforward, thanks to a far-reaching network of public transport. Rail, bus, and collective -- or grands -- taxis pretty much cover most of the country, with larger transit-vans and Berber trucks covering the more inaccessible areas.

However, although the coverage may be good, it always pays to have a bit of "Moroccan time" up your sleeve, as delays can sometimes occur on public transport.

By Train

The state-run Office National des Chemins de Fer (ONCF; tel. 0890/203040 within Morocco; www.oncf.ma) operates a safe and comfortable rail network connecting most cities west of the Atlas Mountains, including Fes, Meknes, Tangier, Rabat, Casablanca, and Marrakech. ONCF's subsidiary, Supratours , runs buses linking some other destinations to the rail network, such as Essaouira. Rail travel in Morocco is quite cheap when compared to that in Europe and North America. A first-class ticket on the network's longest journey -- the 15-hour, 825km (513-mile) trip from Oujda to Marrakech -- costs 420dh.

Timetables rarely change, although special schedules are arranged during Ramadan and the two subsequent festival times of Eid al Fitr and Eid al Adha. Timetables are usually posted within the station, or can be viewed on the ONCF website (horaries for schedules, tarifs for the fare). Station counter staff can also print the schedule between two particular stations. Punctuality and reliability can be hit or miss on the network, with trains operating with Swiss-like precision at times, and other times running frustratingly late. There are two types of trains, Train Navette Rapide (TNR), also called ordinaire, and Train Rapide Climatisé (TRC), also called train à supplement or train noble. Almost all intercity services are TRC trains, which are air-conditioned and offer both first- and second-class travel. Drinks and snacks are available on the train, and smoking is (theoretically) not allowed in compartments, just the carriageway.

First-class compartments have six seats; second-class ones have eight. All overnight trains have couchettes, and some also offer sleeper cars. Couchettes consist of four or six bunk beds in each compartment, while sleeper cars offer one or two beds, a toilet, and washbasin. Each couchette and sleeper car has its own attendant for security, who'll also wake you in time for your stop. Couchettes and sleepers must be booked in advance, with a couchette costing an additional 90dh on top of your ticket, and sleeper cars costing no more than 350dh, depending on the length of the journey. Reservations can be made from within Morocco only, and can be made 2 months in advance for couchettes, while first-class tickets for other journeys can be reserved 1 month in advance. Tickets prebooked over the phone must be collected from the departure station at least 4 hours before departure. Second-class seats can't be prebooked. Other than that, you can simply purchase your ticket at the station before departure, or even on the train, although this incurs a supplement. Prebooking is especially recommended for overnight couchettes and for travel during Eid al Fitr and Eid al Adha. Also, first-class fares on many routes can get sold out, so it's worth getting to the station early; even second class on some routes is often overbooked and commuters can be left standing in the aisle. All tickets are sold at train stations -- payable in cash only -- and authorized travel agents. The flip side of being so organized is that many Moroccans are unaware of, or don't understand, the concept of prereserved seating, and you may well find someone in your seat. If you have any difficulty in procuring your allotted seat, there are conductors moving through the trains regularly.

Tickets are valid for 5 days and are worth hanging onto during the journey, as conductors check them on the train and often collect them at the arrival station. A return (retour) ticket is exactly double the price of a one-way (aller simple), and any journey that includes a Supratours service (called a Road & Rail ticket) can only be booked one way.

There are a few reductions and discounts available. The Billet Week-end offers a 25% reduction on return journeys of a minimum of 360km (223 miles) made over the same weekend. The Carte Fidelité, which costs 149dh and is valid for 1 year, is for those 26 years old and over and gives a 50% discount on 16 one-way, second-class journeys. The Carte Jeune costs 99dh and offers the same discount for those 25 and under. There are also reductions available for small children, seniors, and families. You can inquire at any train station; you'll need a photocopy of your passport and a passport-size photograph.

Most luggage, including surfboards and bicycles, can be taken on as carry-on. Moroccan train conductors are friendly, well informed, and helpful. They usually announce -- in Arabic and French -- each station well in advance, but many stations are poorly signposted, so it pays to stay alert as to when your station should be coming up; don't be afraid to ask your fellow passengers. Platforms on some stations are only accessed by walking across the tracks. The stations themselves usually offer luggage storage for up to 24 hours for 10dh per item.

By Bus

Buses are the cheapest and most popular way to get around Morocco, and they have by far the greatest reach. A complex network of private bus companies crisscrosses the country, with many competing lines covering the most popular routes. The "big four" are Compagnie de Transports Marocains (CTM), SATAS, Trans Ghazala, and Supratours. CTM (tel. 0522/541010; www.ctm.ma) is the privatized national carrier and the most reliable. Their network covers the entire country, and buses depart on fixed schedules with numbered seating. SATAS and Trans Ghazala are the best of the private lines, operating largely in the country's south and north, respectively. Supratours (tel. 0522/298163 central reservations; www.supratours.ma) operates in conjunction with the national rail carrier, ONCF. Their routes supplement ONCF's schedule to destinations south of Marrakech (including Agadir and Essaouira) and to the northern cities of Tetouan and Nador, and are direct point-to-point services. All of these companies offer well-maintained, air-conditioned buses, and due to seat numbering, don't oversell. They also, theoretically, only pick up and drop off from designated stops.

All the other private companies operate with smaller fleets, often running on a definitive timetable and departing only when the driver and his attendants think the bus is sufficiently full. These operators are very competitive for business, often paying commission to hustlers and touts. Their fleets can be poorly maintained, with vehicles driven recklessly in order to arrive at particular destinations before their competitor. Their advantage over the bigger companies is their access to the country's smaller villages and more inaccessible towns.

Some companies, CTM included, operate overnight services on long-distance routes, such as between Fes and Marrakech; Casablanca and Tangier; and Casablanca and Er Rachidia. From June to September, these services are a popular -- and cooler -- alternative to traveling during the day.

Fares can be as little as 40dh for the 1-hour journey between Fes and Meknes, and even the 12- to 15-hour long-haul routes cost no more than 300dh.

Most towns in Morocco have a main bus station, called a gare routière. This can sometimes be similar to the Western perception of a bus station, but can also be a simple patch of ground. More often than not, it will be located some distance from the center, but there are usually petits taxis parked nearby. Some cities have more than one gare routière. This is in addition to CTM, which largely operates from its own terminals, located outside its offices. Supratours buses operate either from the train station or from their own office. In the larger towns and cities, the gare routière can feel intimidating upon arrival. Each bus company will have a ticket counter, usually displaying their departures in the window. Normally upon arrival, Western travelers are approached by ticket touts called courtiers. Although overwhelming initially, courtiers do usually know their stuff and can be handy in some of the busier stations. Advise your destination, and you will be directed to the appropriate ticket counter. A courtier earns a small commission for every passenger he brings to the company, but he will also expect a small tip from you for his service. To get the most value out of this service, and some peace of mind, I always ask to be shown to the particular bus that I will be traveling on before I purchase my ticket.

It's worth trying to buy your ticket in advance, especially if you're traveling to a popular destination or wish to travel with one of the companies mentioned above. At the very least, try to arrive early in the day to give yourself the most options. This is particularly wise in the smaller towns, where buses traveling through are already full and therefore don't stop.

When traveling with the companies mentioned above, luggage is usually charged extra per piece. You should be given a receipt, and your luggage will be stowed for you. With the private companies, you are normally charged a per-item fee, paid to an independent porter. Either way, it's never normally any more than 10dh per piece. Most gare routière and CTM stations have a luggage storage where you can leave your bags for up to 24 hours for around 10dh per piece.

In rural areas, such as the High Atlas villages, there may be no bus or grand taxi services. In their place you will normally find trucks or lorries (camions) and transit vans (transits). They operate pretty much the same as grands taxis and can be a fun and memorable way to travel around the far reaches of the country.

By Grand Taxi

Morocco's collective taxis, called grands taxis, are the workhorses of the country's public transport system, operating in every corner throughout the day and night, linking villages with towns and towns with cities. They are usually old Mercedes sedans and are located at organized ranks next to bus stations, train stations, and even street corners. Most routes are short and regular, with longer or less popular routes normally leaving early in the morning. Grands taxis always travel with six passengers -- two in the front next to the driver and four in the back. If it sounds cramped, you're right. Travelers with just a slightly bigger budget than stone broke often choose to pay for two seats and claim the front seat for themselves. This is an especially good idea for single female travelers. Many taxi drivers will try to push this onto Western travelers, however. If you only want to pay for one seat, you can use the words wa-hed (one) and collectif (collective taxi). The fares are fixed, and drivers rarely attempt to overcharge Westerners, though they often try to add on extra for luggage, which is fair if you're accompanied by a surfboard or three suitcases, but not for any reasonable piece of luggage.

I've given many examples of routes and their corresponding fares. Grands taxis leave when full, and there's no system of prebooking a seat. A good option for small groups or families is to charter a whole taxi. This allows for much more freedom within the journey (rest and toilet stops, for example), and can often be organized by your hotel. Although it seems obvious that the cost of chartering a whole grand taxi should be six times the single fare, this isn't always the case. Bargain hard.

There are some pertinent safety concerns attached to traveling in grands taxis. Many drivers are under pressure to work long hours, and falling asleep at the wheel is a definite possibility on night drives, so it's best to travel by day. Within that busy day, a driver is trying to fit in as many journeys as possible, and will often drive as if there is no one else on the road. Overtaking on blind corners is common on many grand taxi journeys. Added to this is the lack of available seat belts, because it's either too cramped within the vehicle or there quite simply aren't any. Needless to say, when chartering a grand taxi, stress on the driver your expectations toward his driving.

By Car

Given enough time, driving yourself around Morocco is a great way to enjoy the country -- if it wasn't for Moroccan drivers. Accident rates are very high, and aggressive driving practices and lack of road safety awareness by pedestrians, cyclists, and moped riders can make for a stressful experience. However, if you can handle what sometimes feels like a driving free-for-all and desire maximum flexibility and independence, then self-driving in Morocco is definitely plausible. The road network linking the country is generally very good, with some European-standard motorways (called auto-routes), many other well-surfaced (though sometimes narrow) secondary and minor roads, and a network of dirt roads, called pistes, through the Atlas ranges.

The minimum driving age in Morocco is 18, though most rental companies will only rent to those 21 and older. You must have both your driving license and passport available for inspection by police at any time. An international driver's license isn't required, so long as your domestic license bears your photograph. Driving in Morocco is on the right-hand side, the same as in continental Europe and North America, and most roundabouts apply the French rule, where priority is given to those entering, rather than those already on, the roundabout. On the motorways the speed limit is 120kmph (75 mph), while on other open roads the limit is 100kmph (62 mph). In built-up areas the limit is usually 40kmph (25 mph). Road signs advising the speed limit are relatively common, but so are police checks and speed traps. Oncoming motorists usually flash their lights to warn of an approaching roadblock or speed radar. On-the-spot fines for speeding start at 400dh. If you're caught speeding, pay the official fine rather than baksheesh (a bribe); this will perhaps lessen the seemingly inherent corruption within Morocco's police force.

Motorways are superb for getting quickly between the major cities and regions, as they connect Tangier, Rabat, Casablanca, Fes, Meknes, Marrakech, and El Jadida. An extension connecting Ceuta to Tangier opened in 2008, and work is underway on a Marrakech-to-Agadir extension that should be complete by the end of 2010. Toll stations are located regularly along the routes, and the cost (calculated on the distance traveled and the size of vehicle) is very reasonable given the quality of the roads. For example, the current cost for a sedan is 107dh from Tangier to Casablanca; 20dh from Casablanca to Rabat; and 145dh from Casablanca to Marrakech. The toll stations are about the only services in Morocco that always have change, so pay with your notes and keep the change for everyday use. Modern roadside gas stations-cum-restaurants are also dotted along the routes, as are emergency assistance patrols.

Fuel is referred to as "petrol" or "essence," with leaded petrol called super, unleaded sans plomb, and regular diesel gasoil. Some gas stations also offer Euro Diesel, which is supposedly more environment-friendly and thus more expensive. Leaded and unleaded currently cost around 11dh to 12dh per liter, regular diesel is around 8dh per liter, and Euro Diesel around 10dh to 11dh. Four liters is approximately 1 gallon. Leaded and diesel fuel are both usually available at all gas stations, located throughout the country, but sparsely between towns in rural areas. Unleaded can be difficult to procure sometimes, and it's therefore best to fill up whenever you can; the Afriquia stations are your best bet. If you break down, there is no national roadside assistance service, but every reputable car-rental agency will advise you of a phone number to call in case of an emergency such as a breakdown. In addition, Moroccan mechanics are experts at getting your car back on the road. Parts for most cars, especially French makes, are usually readily available.

Driving in Morocco's cities can be extremely daunting. One particularly crazy time is nearing sunset during Ramadan. The mad rush to finish work and get home (it's traditional to break each day's fast with family or close friends) brings about even crazier driving tactics than normal. Conversely, the hour or so after sunset sees the streets practically void of any traffic, motorized or pedestrian. If you can time your entry or exit with this time of the Ramadan day, you'll have a free run.

Parking in Morocco's urban centers can be difficult. Most top-end hotels will offer private parking, while street-side parking is attended to by gardiens. Gardiens are often licensed by the local authorities to keep a watch over vehicles in a given area. Gardiens only earn money from the tips they receive from drivers. They may ask for a fee, or tip, upfront if you are staying for more than a day, as sometimes arguments break out between a day-shift and night-shift gardien as to who has earned the money. Budget on 10dh per shift, and you'll keep everybody happy. If you're lucky, you might even find your car has been washed before you depart. Note: Red- and white-stripe curbing means no parking.

The major international car-rental firms are all represented in Morocco, with agencies in most of the major cities and airports. These include Avis (tel. 0522/312424; www.avis.com), Budget (tel. 0522/313124; www.budget.com), Europcar (tel. 0522/313737; www.europcar.com), Hertz (tel. 0522/484710; www.hertz.com); and National/Alamo (tel. 0522/472540; www.nationalcar.com). There are also countless local car-rental firms. To rent a car in Morocco you'll need to be 21 years or older and theoretically have a year's driving experience. Group A vehicles, usually a small, four-door hatch or sedan, are the smallest available and perfectly adequate for most road touring in Morocco. The next size up is Group B, usually a small to medium four-door sedan, which will have a bit more power and may offer air-conditioning and a music system. Generally, it can be difficult, but not impossible, to acquire an automatic-gear rental car.

Car rental is a very competitive industry in Morocco, and daily rates ebb and flow according to season, demand, and supply. Costs for a Group A can range from 350dh to 500dh per day with unlimited mileage. These rates will usually include basic third-party insurance, but I recommend paying an extra 50dh to 100dh per day for collision damage waiver (CDW) insurance. This usually still has an excess of between 3,000dh and 5,000dh, which can be waived by paying a "super" collision damage waiver of around 50dh per day. There's usually no additional fee for an additional driver, but each driver's name must be recorded on the rental agreement. Most companies request an imprint of your credit card as a deposit.

All of the above costs are usually non-negotiable with the international firms, especially if you prebook, but can often be negotiated with the local firms, especially outside of high tourist season (June-Sept). Although this can be advantageous for your wallet, first compare the logistical and mechanical assistance offered between companies. Also, not many local companies offer one-way rentals.

By Petit Taxi

Operating in all cities and large towns are local taxis called petits taxis. These small four-door vehicles are the most convenient and inexpensive way to get around town. They are usually a four-door hatch, and those operating in each city or town are all colored the same; beige in Marrakech and turquoise in Tangier, for example. Government-regulated drivers are only allowed to carry up to three passengers, though these can all be traveling on separate fares, and are only allowed to travel within the city/town limits. At all times, request (sometimes this becomes a demand) the driver to charge by his electronic meter, as he is legally bound to no matter the time of day or night. After 8pm, a 50% surcharge kicks in. Fares are usually no more than 15dh to 20dh per trip -- not per person -- and are quite often less.

By Plane

Most international travelers only fly within Morocco when connecting directly from an international flight, such as New York to Marrakech, where you will more than likely change planes onto a local carrier in Casablanca. Domestic flights are relatively expensive when compared to road and rail, and are subject to frequent delays that often negate the quicker flying time. As there are only two domestic air carriers, competition is low and fares are relatively high. Both carriers have an extensive network of flights servicing the country, mostly emanating from Casablanca.

Tips for Women Travelers

Encountering unwanted attention from Moroccan men is unfortunately a possibility for female travelers. The relative lack of social interaction between the sexes in Morocco results in men having little exposure to women other than their immediate family. They often see Western women as not being bound by Morocco's social restrictions, and perhaps have a not-so-respectful assumption of them via easily accessible Internet pornography. This assumption of availability emboldens the Moroccan male to make advances on female travelers that he would never attempt with Moroccan women. This generally takes the form of catcalls and straight-up come-ons. Blonde women may be singled out, and women traveling alone generally receive more attention than most.

Women on the receiving end of nonphysical sexual harassment should do what Moroccan women do: Ignore it. Showing confidence and self-assurance also seems to deter a lot of would-be Romeos. I've often explained the situation to female travelers by comparing the male harasser to your 13-year-old brother -- full of bravado and not much else, especially when isolated from his friends. What you are basically trying to project is that you wish to be treated with the same respect and standards as Moroccan women, who regularly put up with catcalls but will never stand for anything more, especially unwanted physical attention such as groping. Should this happen, make a scene, and Moroccans around you will come to your assistance and often strongly admonish your attacker. If you're in one of the major medinas, ask for the Brigade Touristique.

Dressing modestly -- a long skirt and loose, long-sleeve shirt -- can help. Having said that, I've seen Western women wearing jellabahs (the traditional robe worn by local women) on the receiving end of lewd comments. Traveling with a male can help you avoid verbal harassment; however, be prepared to call him your "husband" on occasions.

All of this sounds terribly negative, but most women never receive any harassment and are nothing but glowing in their praise for the respect shown to them. Try not to be paranoid or aggressive toward all Moroccan men. It's extremely rare for harassment to go any further than the odd catcall or lewd remark. If you do need to escape at any time, head for the nearest salon de thé (upmarket teahouse) or cafe-restaurant (but not the local all-male cafe) to gather yourself.

Check out the award-winning website Journeywoman (www.journeywoman.com), a "real-life" women's travel-information network where you can sign up for a free e-mail newsletter and get advice on everything from etiquette to safety. The travel guide Safety and Security for Women Who Travel by Sheila Swan and Peter Laufer (Travelers' Tales Guides), offering common-sense tips on safe travel, was updated in 2004.

Girls vs. Boys -- While my male author addresses the issues faced by women travelers, I feel it's important to share my own Morocco experiences (as this guide's editor and a woman) and prepare females (particularly young women traveling alone or together) for the attention they will receive from local men. Young Moroccan men can be charmers, and you'll likely make male friends along your journey. However, be wary of large crowds (Gnaoua & World Music Festival) or congested medinas, where young men sometimes get carried away and forget the rules of decorum. It is without question (no matter what you wear) that you will get your fair share of catcalls (think of the stereotypical construction worker), which can be avoided (I find) by putting on a serious face and walking with purpose, and otherwise simply ignored. In the event that the harassment is elevated (groping, following, aggressive profanity), do not hesitate to use the same defense you would at home (yelling, pushing away, and so on), and identify the offender to the Brigade Touristique if possible. The chance of this happening is rare and should not scare you from visiting a country that I truly love (despite my few bad experiences), and remember that just because you're a visitor doesn't mean you have to put up with actions that make you uncomfortable. -- Anuja Madar

Tips for Gay and Lesbian Travelers

Homosexuality is considered relatively common, though rarely acknowledged, amongst Moroccan men. Even though illegal and punishable with imprisonment, the lack of everyday integration between the sexes has lent itself to a general and subtle tolerance toward male effeminate behavior. Platonic affection between Moroccan males -- such as holding hands, which is a sign of friendship and respect -- is freely shown, and some of the Berber tribes (the Atlas Chleuh, for example) are known as particularly tolerant toward homosexual behavior. Lesbianism is relatively uncommon and definitely not acknowledged, as it portrays a weakness in both the woman -- she's expected to get married and bear children -- and her family.

For both gays and lesbians, discretion is advised. Avoid public displays of affection, as this is something that is even frowned upon when shown by a heterosexual couple. Tangier -- the world's first gay resort -- is still considered somewhat gay-friendly. Marrakech certainly has a mini gay scene, thanks largely to the number of gay French couples now residing there.

The International Gay and Lesbian Travel Association (IGLTA; tel. 800/448-8550 or 954/776-2626; www.iglta.org) is the trade association for the gay and lesbian travel industry, and offers an online directory of gay- and lesbian-friendly travel businesses and tour operators. Gay Journey (www.gayjourney.com) is a U.S.-based online travel resource of destinations that cater to the gay lifestyle, including Morocco. Beyond the Mask (www.mask.org.za) has gay-based information and news articles on each African country, including Morocco. GlobalGayz (www.globalgayz.com) is a gay-owned travel, news, and culture website focused on les-bi-gay-trans life in countries around the world. Their exposé and other stories on gay life in Morocco are very interesting and well researched.

The following travel guides are available at many bookstores, or you can order them from any online bookseller: Spartacus International Gay Guide (Bruno Gmünder Verlag; www.spartacusworld.com/gayguide); Odysseus: The International Gay Travel Planner (www.odyusa.com); and the Damron guides (www.damron.com), with separate annual books for gay men and lesbians.

Calendar of Events

Morocco hosts many festivals throughout the year, including a fine range of internationally recognized music festivals, feasts, and celebrations linked to the agricultural or Islamic calendar, and regional moussems -- festivals dedicated to local holy men, called marabouts, and displaying a unique blend of Islamic Sufism with traditional Berber beliefs. For an exhaustive list of events beyond those listed here, check http://events.frommers.com, where you'll find a searchable, up-to-the-minute roster of what's happening in cities all over the world.

February

Almond Blossom Festival, Ameln Valley (Tafraoute is the nearest major town). Held in late February to early March when the valley is "snowing" with pink and white blossoms, the festivities move along the valley from one village to the next, with Berber dancing, singing, and, of course, almond tasting. The harvest is heavily dependent on winter rainfall, so contact Ahmed Ouardarass at Tafraout Aventure for dates.

March & April

International Nomads Festival, M'hamid. Styled along the lines of Mali's Festival in the Desert, this Moroccan version has slowly gained in prestige since its inception in 2003, drawing artists from France, Brazil, and Spain. Performances rotate between two sites: one in a specially constructed nomadic camp in the dunes about 20km (12 miles) from the village and only accessible by 4X4, the other on a stage in the village itself. The event is still small-scale and thus yet to be overrun by tourists, and is held over 4 days in mid- to late March or early April. Visit www.nomadsfestival.com for information and current dates.

Moussem of Sidi Abdallah ibn Hassoun, Salé. Held on the eve of Mouloud, the Prophet Mohammed's birthday, this moussem is presided over by local brotherhoods. Commencing at around 3pm and continuing for 3 to 4 hours, a procession of candle bearers (a position handed down from father to son) carry large wax candle lanterns to the Grand Mosque, accompanied by music and dancing.

May

Rose Festival, El Kelaâ M'Gouna, Dadès Valley. A colorful (and aromatic) festival held in late May that coincides with the harvest of Damask roses in the valley. Music and dancing are accompanied by the obligatory showers of rose petals, and children line the roads selling fresh garlands.

June

Gnaoua & World Music Festival, Essaouira. This is one of the best known of the country's music festivals, with more than 400 musicians, including Gnaoua bands, Moroccan artists, and international musicians. Essaouira is bursting at the seams during the festival, so book your accommodations early. Concerts are free and held at various outdoor stages around the medina and on the beach. Mid- to late June. Visit www.festival-gnaoua.net.

Moussem of Ben Aïssa, place el Hedim, Meknes. This is one of the country's largest moussems and was traditionally the annual gathering of the Aïssoua brotherhood, known for their extraordinary endurance and self flagellation under trance. They still gather here today, but concentrate more on extended sessions of music, as well as worshiping their marabout, Ben Aïssa, near the entrance into Meknes from Rabat. Other attractions during the festival include a fantasia, where a charge of horses is ridden at full gallop by riders simultaneously firing long-barreled rifles. Takes place over several days on the eve of Mouloud.

TANJAzz, Tangier. This quality jazz festival is held during the latter part of May and attracts some big names from the U.S. and France. Concerts and jazz sessions are held at various hotels throughout the city, including El Minzah Hotel. The festival usually takes place in early June. Visit www.tanjazz.org for information.

July

Festival of World Sacred Music, Fes. This is another of Morocco's most popular music festivals. The 9-day festival has attracted big names such as South Africa's "white Zulu" Johnny Clegg and U2's Bono, and lives up to its reputation as one of the world's most authentic world music festivals. Concerts are held throughout the city -- some for free -- and occasionally at the Roman ruins of Volubilis. Early June. Visit www.fesfestival.com for information.

International Cultural Festival, Asilah. This 30-year-old festival has rejuvenated the Atlantic fishing village of Asilah, and is perhaps the most dedicated cultural event on the calendar. Throughout the village's medina are performances, lectures, exhibitions, and workshops (some for kids) given by an array of international artists, musicians, intellectuals, and lecturers. The festival runs for the entire month.

Marrakech Popular Arts Festival, Marrakech. Traditional performers from all over the country converge on the city for this 10-day carnival that turns Marrakech into one big, open-air theater. Performances are held in former palaces, on Jemaa el Fna, or simply begin impromptu on the street. Usually held in early July.

August

Setti Fatma Moussem, Setti Fatma. This moussem is held for 4 days, usually in the middle of August, and celebrates the local marabout whose shrine, or koubba, is upstream from the village. Non-Muslims aren't allowed into the koubba, but the village itself turns out a fantastic carnival, and tourists are welcome. It makes a great day trip from Marrakech.

September

Imilchil Marriage Festival, Imilchil. The 3-day Fête des Fiancés in the Eastern High Atlas has become just as popular with tourists as it has with the locals. Traditionally, it is a time for the region's unmarried men and women to mix and sometimes match. Usually held the first week of September.

Moussem of Moulay Idriss II, Fes. In late September or early October, thousands gather outside this marabout's tomb, located close to the ancient city's Kairouine Mosque, to watch processions of brotherhoods coming to pay tribute to their saint, the son of Morocco's founding father and creator of Fes.

October

Date Festival, Erfoud. Once the Tafilalt's delicious dates have been harvested, this otherwise sleepy town at the entrance to Morocco's Sahara comes alive. Performances of Gnaoua and Berber music and dance reflect the region's influences, and there are plenty of free dates to taste. The festival's dates (no pun intended) vary from year to year, according to the harvest. Contact one of the local hotels or restaurants toward the end of September for a better idea of exact days.

December

Festival International du Film de Marrakech, Marrakech. This is North Africa's version of the popular Cannes festival, screening more than 100 films over 1 week. The festival has attracted big-name Hollywood and Bollywood stars since it began in 2001. The festival dates seem to change every year, so consult their site (www.festivalmarrakech.info) for more details.

Staying Connected

Telecommunications in Morocco are quite advanced for a developing country, with accessibility -- be it from public phone booths, cellphone coverage or even VoIP -- generally good throughout the country bar the most inaccessible mountain regions. In 2009 and due to the ever-increasing number of users joining the national grid, the state telecommunications provider Maroc Telecom decided to add another number to every land line and cellphone line in the country. This additional number has been inserted between what was the first and second numbers of the area code. All landline numbers have been given an additional "5." For example, the phone number 024/123456 is now 0524/123456, and 035/123456 is now 0535/123456. All cellphone numbers, no matter the network, have been allocated an additional "6." For example, the phone number 061/123456 is now 0661/123456, and 067/123456 is now 0667/123456. Shared call numbers such as those for various companies' central reservations now have an additional "0" between the first two numbers. For example, 08/123456 is now 080/123456. This major change has come after all landline area codes were first amended in 2006; most numbers north of (but not including) Casablanca changed from 055 to 035, and those south of the city changed from 044 to 024 and 048 to 028. All of this can be quite confusing for travelers, as many published telephone numbers still contain the old area codes from pre-2006.

Telephones

Coin-operated phones can be found in private téléboutiques (staffed phone booths) within every village, town, and city. You can make local and international calls from here, though you will need a stack of coins -- thankfully there is always an attendant on hand to dispense change. Card-operated public phones are scattered everywhere, including outside post offices. Cards can be bought from the post office, newspaper stalls, and tabacs (news agency-cum-tobacconist). Per-minute costs to landline numbers are currently 1dh for local calls, 1.50dh for national calls, 2.60dh to 3.75dh for calls to Europe, and up to 7dh to elsewhere.

To call Morocco from another country:

1. Dial the international access code: 011 from the U.S.; 00 from the U.K., Ireland, or New Zealand; or 0011 from Australia.

2. Dial the country code 212.

3. Dial the Moroccan number minus the first 0.

To make domestic calls within Morocco: For all calls within Morocco, drop the country code; the full area code (including the first 0) must be dialed along with the number. All numbers in Morocco begin with a three-digit area code. Codes beginning with 052 or 053 are landline numbers; all other numbers are mobile numbers.

To make international calls from Morocco: To make international calls from Morocco, first dial 00 and then the country code (U.S. or Canada 1, U.K. 44, Ireland 353, Australia 61, New Zealand 64). Next, dial the area code (drop the first 0 if there is one) and number. For example, if you wanted to call the British Embassy in Washington, D.C., you would dial 00-1-202-588-7800.

For directory assistance & operator-assisted calls: Dial 160 for a number within Morocco, and dial 126 for numbers to all other countries.

Toll-free numbers: There are no toll-free numbers within Morocco, and calling a toll-free number in the U.S., U.K., or anywhere else from Morocco is not toll-free. In fact, it costs the same as an overseas call.

Cellphones

The three letters that define much of the world's wireless capabilities are GSM (Global System for Mobile Communications), a big, seamless network that makes for easy cross-border cellphone use throughout Europe and dozens of other countries worldwide. In the U.S., T-Mobile, AT&T Wireless, and Cingular use this quasi-universal system; in Canada, Microcell and some Rogers customers are GSM, and all Europeans and most Australians use GSM. GSM phones function with a removable plastic SIM card, encoded with your phone number and account information. If your cellphone is on a GSM system and you have a world-capable multiband phone such as many Sony Ericsson, Motorola, or Samsung models, you can make and receive calls across civilized areas around much of the globe. Just call your wireless operator and ask for "international roaming" to be activated on your account. Unfortunately, per-minute charges can be high -- usually $1 to $1.50 in western Europe and up to $5 in places such as Russia and Indonesia. GSM coverage in Morocco is generally excellent, bar the more inaccessible regions in the mountains and within the country's desert ergs.

For many, renting a phone is a good idea. While you can rent a phone from any number of overseas sites, including kiosks at airports and at car-rental agencies, I suggest renting the phone before you leave home. North Americans can rent one from InTouch USA (tel. 800/872-7626; www.intouchglobal.com) or RoadPost (tel. 888/290-1606 or 905/272-5665; www.roadpost.com). InTouch will also, for free, advise you on whether your existing phone will work overseas; simply call tel. 703/222-7161 between 9am and 4pm EST, or go to http://intouchglobal.com/travel.htm.

There are no phone rental companies within Morocco. However, buying a phone -- or using your own if it is compatible -- is often economically attractive, as Morocco has a cheap prepaid phone system. You can buy phones in Morocco for as little as 300dh. The major local GSM provider is Méditel. Shops selling Méditel SIM cards and prepaid top-ups are located in all urban centers, large or small. A SIM card currently costs 20dh, and top-ups can be purchased from any Méditel shop or from tabacs and general stores countrywide. The SIM card is valid for 6 months upon the first call. Each top-up extends the SIM for another 6 months, but the SIM must be used within a 6-month period or else it expires and cannot be used again. Domestic calls cost 1dh per minute to other Méditel numbers and 3.50dh per minute to other GSM numbers and local landlines. International calls cost up to 20dh per minute, depending on the destination and the time of day. All incoming calls are free.

Voice over Internet Protocol (VoIP)

If you have Web access while traveling, you might consider a broadband-based telephone service (in technical terms, Voice over Internet Protocol, or VoIP) such as Skype (www.skype.com) or Vonage (www.vonage.com), which allows you to make free international calls between online computers, and cheap international calls if you're calling a normal phone number. Most cybercafes throughout the country will be using these programs already, complete with headset, microphone, and webcam.

Internet & Email

Morocco has truly joined the Internet era. While there is a growing number of home users, socioeconomic reasons (most people can't afford a home computer) dictate that the majority of Moroccan users frequent Internet cafes -- called "cyber" -- found in virtually every city, town, and even village that has electricity and telephones. The users are generally teenage Moroccans, who sit for hours during the evening participating in international chat rooms. Most cybercafes don't censor what their users are watching -- there's no government censorship -- and Western travelers may be shocked to find themselves sitting next to a young Moroccan lad who is surfing some pretty hard-core porn sites. Moroccans have also fully taken to speaking to loved ones via VoIP calls from their local cybercafe.

Tip: You'll find most keyboards in Morocco are designed with Arabic-language users in mind, so some letters will be in a different place from what you're used to. To bring up the @ symbol, simultaneously press Alt Gr and either the number 0 or à keys.

Without Your Own Computer -- In Morocco, by far the easiest way to check your e-mail and surf the Web is in one of the country's Internet cafes. Connection speed varies but is usually pretty fast. The cost for 30 minutes is usually no more than 10dh. Cybercafes generally open between 9 and 10am, not closing until 10 to 11pm most days, although some will close for a few hours at midday Friday. To find cybercafes in your destination, check www.cybercaptive.com and www.cybercafe.com.

With Your Own Computer -- Within Morocco there are a growing number of hotels, maisons d'hôte, and cafes that offer free Wi-Fi access or charge a small fee for usage. Most laptops sold today have built-in wireless capability. To find public Wi-Fi hot spots at your destination, go to www.jiwire.com; its Hotspot Finder holds the world's largest directory of public wireless hot spots. Throughout this book, I've advised which establishments offer Wi-Fi.

Fast Facts

Area Codes -- A recent overhaul of all phone numbers, landline and mobile, in Morocco has seen an additional number added to every phone number. Listed below are the country's main area codes, with their now obsolete former codes in parentheses:

Casablanca: 0522 (022)

Oualidia: 0523 (023)

Marrakech, Essaouira, and Ouarzazate: 0524 (024)

Agadir, Tafraoute, and Taroudannt: 0528 (028)

Erfoud, Fes, Meknes, and Midelt: 0535 (035)

Rabat: 0537 (037)

Tangier, Asilah, and Chefchaouen: 0539 (039)

Automobile Organizations -- There are no auto clubs or roadside assistance organizations in Morocco.

Business Hours -- The Moroccan working day is a combination of both Western and Eastern cultures. For example, most Moroccans eat three meals a day at the usual mealtimes of breakfast, lunch, and dinner. However, most will also work from 9am to 7pm, with short breaks during the day to pray and an extended lunch break. Shops in the medina will usually open at 8 or 9am and stay open until 8 or 9pm. Business hours for the country's banks are Monday to Friday 8:15am to 3:45pm, though during Ramadan these are shortened from 9am to 2:30pm, depending on the bank. Government departments work from Monday to Thursday 8:30am to noon and 2 to 6:30pm, and Fridays 8:30 to 11:30am and 3 to 6:30pm.

Drinking Laws -- Contrary to preconceived notions, liquor is available throughout much of Morocco. Many Moroccans -- mainly men -- drink, but do so privately. The legal drinking age for Moroccans is 18, but for visitors this is a gray area, as most establishments will serve you no matter what the age (within reason, of course). Moroccan bars, called brasseries, are usually smoky, dingy drinking dens frequented by Moroccan men and prostitutes. Most top-end restaurants and many maisons d'hôte will also offer alcohol, as will nightclubs in the resorts of Agadir and Marrakech. The business hours of these establishments vary from town to town, but you'll find most restaurants are closed by 11pm and local brasseries by midnight, while nightclubs and hotel bars may stay open until 4 or 5am, especially in tourist areas. To find a shop selling alcohol, it's best to ask at your hotel reception desk, or locate a branch of the national supermarket chains Acima and Marjane, mentioned where applicable in the "Shopping" sections throughout this book. Drinking alcohol in public is frowned upon and downright ignorant if practiced near a mosque.

Electricity -- Electricity is generally reliable and available throughout Morocco, barring obvious places such as the top of Jebel Toubkal or in the dunes of central Morocco. Moroccan power points accept the European two-pin plug only, and run on a 220V/55Hz current. International adaptors are very hard to find within the country, so bring your own.

Embassies & Consulates -- The following embassies are in Rabat: Canada, 13 bis rue Jaâfar as Sadiq, Agdal (tel. 0537/687400; www.dfait-maeci.gc.ca/morocco); South Africa, 34 rue des Saadiens, Hassan (tel. 0537/706760; www.dfa.gov.za); U.K., 28 av. SAR Sidi Mohammed, Souissi (tel. 0537/633333; www.ukinmorocco.fco.gov.uk); and U.S., 2 av. Marrakech (aka av. Mohammed el Fassi), Ministères (tel. 0537/762265; http://rabat.usembassy.gov).

The U.S. also maintains a consulate in Casablanca, 8 bd. Moulay Youssef (tel. 0522/264550; http://casablanca.usconsulate.gov), as does the U.K., 36 rue de la Loire, Polo (tel. 0522/857400), although all consular services to British citizens have recently been transferred to the embassy in Rabat.

The U.K. operates another consulate in Tangier at Trafalgar House, 9 rue de l'Amerique du Sud (tel. 0539/936939), and has honorary consuls in Marrakech, at Résidence Taib, 55 bd. Zerktouni, Guéliz (tel. 0524/420846), and Agadir, c/o Complete Tours, 3rd floor Immeuble Oumlil, 26 av. Hassan II (tel. 0528/840469).

Australians are provided consular assistance by the Canadian embassy, or must otherwise contact the Australian embassy in France, 4 rue Jean Rey, Paris (tel. 1405/93300; www.dfat.gov.au).

Irish citizens are represented by their embassy in Portugal at Rua da Imprensa a Estrela 1-4, Lisbon (tel. 121/3929440; www.dfa.ie). There are also two honorary consuls of Ireland in the COPRAGRI Building, Boulevard Moulay Ismail, Km 6.3 Route de Rabat, Aïn Sebaa, Casablanca (tel. 0522/660306), and in the Hotel Kenzi Europa, bd. du 20 Août, Agadir (tel. 0528/821212).

New Zealanders are represented by their embassy in Spain at Calle del Pinar 7, Madrid (tel. 915/230226; www.nzembassy.com), but in an emergency can call on the U.K. Moroccan embassy or consulates.

Emergencies -- In any emergency, dial tel. 19 from anywhere in Morocco, which will connect you with the local police. For a public ambulance, dial tel. 15. On the other end of the line, however, may be someone who speaks only Moroccan Arabic or French at best. In the medinas of the major cities, ask a local shopkeeper to find you the Brigade Touristique.

Insurance -- Purchasing travel insurance is a good idea for travelers coming to Morocco. In particular, I recommend coverage for lost luggage and medical expenses and emergencies. Inshal'lah (God willing), I've yet to experience it firsthand, but I've come across many travelers in Morocco who arrived safely, but without their luggage. As the majority of travelers are only visiting the country for a maximum of 2 weeks, most lost luggage that does eventually arrive sits at the arrival airport until the traveler returns to board his or her departure flight. The ensuing cost of purchasing necessities such as clothing and toiletries can be reimbursed against most insurance policies, and helps to counter some of the frustration and inconvenience. Insurance coverage for medical expenses also makes sense, when you take into account the high number of road accidents (most if not all of your traveling will be by road) and the amount of walking that usually takes place while sightseeing (medina pavements can be uneven and slippery).

For information on traveler's insurance, trip cancellation insurance, and medical insurance while traveling, please visit www.frommers.com/planning.

Internet Access -- Internet access is very good throughout Morocco, with most towns and cities well served by public Internet cafes, called cybercafés.

Language -- Moroccan Arabic (sometimes called Darija) is the country's official language. A distinctive dialect of the worldwide Modern Standard Arabic (MSA), it is largely a spoken, rather than written, language. Newspapers and official documentation will therefore usually be written in MSA. Moroccan Arabic is constantly evolving, and includes words adapted from Spanish, English, and French. French is widely spoken throughout the country, and is the language of business, commerce, and, to a large degree, tourism. English is becoming a popular language to learn in universities, and is spoken frequently in heavily touristed areas. The regional languages of the country's Berbers are widely spoken in the Atlas mountains and central Morocco, although French and some English will be spoken in the more touristed areas. A Moroccan Arabic Conversation Guide by Mohamed Lamzoudi and Jacques Tronel (Librairie du Monde Accueil, Casablanca; www.limactuel.com) is a well-researched and easy-to-read phrasebook that is available at most airports in the country or via their website.

Laundromats -- Very few laundromats are found within Morocco, and even fewer are self-service. Most Moroccans wash their everyday clothes at home, and use dry cleaners (m'sbana in Arabic, pressing in French) for their suits, jellabahs, and other fine dresswear.

Legal Aid -- If you need legal assistance, your first (and only) option is to contact your embassy or consulate. Although consular officials can't serve as attorneys or give legal advice, they can usually provide a list of local attorneys and help you find legal representation. Remember that it is illegal to bribe a police officer or public official in Morocco -- even though the practice is commonplace. If you have been dealing with a local guide, sometimes they can help with translation, though they will be very wary of treading on the police's toes. There are no community or free legal aid organizations in Morocco.

Mail -- The Moroccan postal service (Maroc Post) is fairly reliable, with postcards and letters taking between 1 and 3 weeks to international destinations, depending on where you post from. A postcard or small letter costs 7dh to 8dh to Europe, 9dh to 12dh to the U.S. and Canada, and 10dh to 15dh to Australia. A package weighing 1 kilogram (2.2 lb.) costs around 110dh to Europe, 150dh to the U.S. and Canada, and 195dh to Australia and New Zealand. Post offices are open Monday to Friday 8am to 4:15pm, and Saturday 8 to 11:45am. Stamps (timbres) can be purchased from post offices and sometimes from souvenir shops and tabacs, which also sell cigarettes and sometimes newspapers. Separate parcel counters are found in all post offices, and all packages need to be inspected beforehand. DHL and FedEx offices are located at various cities within the country.

Newspapers & Magazines -- All major newspapers and magazines in Morocco are in either Arabic (MSA) or French. Weekly international editions of The Guardian, Herald Tribune, and Time magazine can sometimes be found at newspaper vendors in the major cities.

Photographic Needs -- Photo stores can be found all over Morocco. Although the number of these shops offering digital services -- such as copying images to CD and selling digital accessories -- is increasing, for the moment most shops' services usually revolve around film-processing services and the supply of film (usually only Fuji and/or Kodak, and only 100 ASA) and sometimes camera batteries.

Police -- For police assistance, dial tel. 19 anywhere in the country.

Smoking -- Smoking is common and an accepted part of the Moroccan lifestyle and thus there aren't many designated nonsmoking areas to be found. This isn't so much of an inconvenience at the outdoor cafes and restaurants, but if you are sensitive to smoke, then it's worth checking out the haze in an indoor cafe or restaurant before you sit down. This is also relevant when staying in the country's cheaper hotels, where it might be an idea to check out your room for cigarette smell before completing the check-in formalities. Thankfully, it's considered impolite to smoke inside public transport.

Taxes -- The main indirect tax in Morocco is a value-added tax (VAT), with rates of between 7% and 14% included in the cost of basic goods and services, including those offered in all restaurants and hotels. A recently introduced Tourist Promotion Tax (TPT) is supposed to be added onto the cost of your accommodations. I found some accommodations already doing this, some are adding it on to your bill at the end of your stay, and some are not even aware of it. The amount is between 10dh and 50dh per person per night, depending on the grade of accommodations.

Time -- Morocco is on Greenwich Mean Time year-round, which equates to 4 or 5 hours ahead of Eastern Standard Time in the U.S., depending on if daylight saving time is being observed. The Spanish enclaves of Ceuta and Melilla keep Spanish time, which is GMT plus 1 hour in winter, and GMT plus 2 hours in summer. Remember to keep this in mind when traveling by ferry from/to the Spanish mainland.

Tipping -- Tipping is expected by Moroccans for every service provided to you, whether you requested the service or not. Sometimes those asking for a tip are bordering on begging, considering the assistance or service -- if any -- that was given. However, it's best not to fight this national habit and rather enjoy your time with no hassle. The expected minimum tip for any meal or drink is 10%. For informal services such as parking attendants and luggage porters, I usually give 5dh to 10dh. If asked to tip when taking a photo, I usually pay 10dh to 20dh. For guiding services it depends on how much guidance was given and whether it was any good or not. For official guides, budget on a 10% tip per person. For faux guides who have perhaps assisted with a small navigational problem, 5dh to 10dh is enough. For other services such as gas (petrol) attendants and taxi drivers, I usually round up to the nearest 5 dirham. These are relatively small amounts and are worth shelling out to both create harmony between Moroccans and tourists and save you from continuous hassle and agitation.

Toilets -- There are very few public restrooms in Morocco, and those that are anywhere near hygienic I've included in this guide. Most restaurants will allow you to use their toilette if you ask politely. Sometimes there might be a small fee, or if there is an attendant keeping them clean, 2dh to 3dh is expected.

Visas -- See the Moroccan Ministry for Foreign Affairs and Cooperation website (www.maec.gov.ma; click on "Consular Action" in the English version) for its current list of visa-exempt countries and a visa application form (in French). Currently, the most notable nationalities that do require a visa are Israeli, South African, and Zimbabwean citizens, who need to apply at a Moroccan embassy or consulate for a 90-day single-entry (around $30/£15) or double-entry (around $50/£25) visa.

Water -- Much of Morocco's water is potable but may upset Westerners' stomachs. Bottled drinking water is available everywhere and is inexpensive, although some restaurants charge an exorbitant markup. From any street-side shop, a 1.5-liter bottle of water will cost no more than 10dh.

Tips on Accommodations

Morocco offers the traveler an extremely appealing range of year-round accommodations, including trendy medina houses, world-class luxury hotels and beach resorts, desert and mountain kasbahs, and grand sultan palaces. Luxury options have increased considerably over recent years, but there are still plenty of mid- to lower-range accommodations as well. Advance reservations are recommended during the holiday season from June to September, as well as over the Easter and Christmas/New Year periods. This applies year-round in Marrakech. You'll also need to prebook if you want to stay in a medina maison d'hôte, where it's almost geographically impossible to simply arrive and ask for a room.

Hotels in Morocco are distinguished between those that are classified by the Moroccan tourist board and those that aren't. As in most countries, the government's hotel-rating system means that establishments are awarded stars for the presence of certain facilities -- pool, restaurant, elevator, and so on -- more than for standards of service and luxury. Thus, it is not always true that the accommodations with the most stars are necessarily the most comfortable or atmospheric. In Morocco, it's best not to rely too much on the star system, as inspections of classified hotels are erratic, and regardless of their star rating, hotels can charge whatever they wish. Unclassified hotels tend to be inexpensive places, usually with communal showers and toilets, few facilities, and in the cities are often located within the medina. Other unclassified hotels, such as those in central and southern Morocco, often offer mattresses on their roof terraces or under large Berber tents, and can be a bargain for budget travelers. Classified hotels in the cities are usually found in the ville nouvelle, and although most lack any great character with mainly Western-style rooms, they do offer value for money. During the cold winter and hot summer, these hotels -- usually in the moderate price bracket and upward -- come into their own, offering rooms with reverse-cycle air-conditioning and showers with a good supply of hot and cold water. Some hotels offer half board (demi pension, meaning breakfast and dinner are included), which can be a good deal, especially in the more isolated areas where there aren't too many alternative dining options.

Morocco's other major style of accommodations is the guesthouse, or maison d'hôte. Generally, maisons d'hôte are in the expensive and very expensive price range, offering services similar to what you would expect from a four-star hotel. Initially concentrated within Marrakech, but now found in great number throughout the country, Morocco's medina maisons d'hôte -- simply called riads in much travel literature -- have become one of the world's most chic accommodations styles. They are generally owner managed, and each has its own distinct soul that is a personal reflection of the owners themselves. Inside you're more than likely to find romantic bedrooms, personal service, fantastic rooftop terrace views, and delicious breakfasts (if not dinners as well), all in a relaxed, intimate setting amidst the hustle and commotion of the medina. On the flip side, however, your room may lack air-conditioning or heating; offer little privacy due to thin, echoing walls and curtained entrances with no locks; and only be accessible by climbing numerous flights of steep, narrow stairs.

Most medina maisons d'hôte can only be accessed by foot. Staying within the medina offers the benefit of being within walking distance of the majority of sights and attractions, and presents an authentic experience of medina life. If you are considering staying within the medina but are traveling with small children, take note that maisons d'hôte usually consist of two to three levels of rooms in close quarters, and noise carries easily from within. Many maisons d'hôte also have plunge or small swimming pools that aren't supervised or cordoned off, as well as stairways or roof terraces that aren't the safest places for crawling or investigative little ones. It is because of both these noise and safety concerns -- let alone any practical problems concerning bed space within the rooms -- that some maisons d'hôte simply refuse to accept children.

The popularity of this accommodations style has skyrocketed in recent years, bringing with it a few unscrupulous property developers who are merely looking to make some easy money through minimum investment. Although the website may look stunning, it's always worth checking out any recent online reviews on a maison d'hôte (such as www.tripadvisor.com) or, if possible, viewing the establishment before handing any money over.

Note: In your hotel or maison d'hôte bathroom, taps labeled C and F stand for chaude (hot) and froid (cold).

Throughout this guide, I've separated hotel listings into several broad categories, reflecting the rack rate for a double room: Very Expensive, 960dh and up; Expensive, 640dh to 960dh; Moderate, 360dh to 640dh; and Inexpensive, under 360dh. Unless otherwise noted, the room rates advised in accommodations' listings are for high season, and exclude all government taxes including a recently introduced Tourist Promotion Tax (TPT) of 10dh to 50dh per person per night, depending on the grade of accommodations. Although single room rates are not stated in the accommodations listings, most accommodations will offer a discounted rate to solo travelers. Tip: During the quieter months, many hotels and some maisons d'hôte will give room discounts or offer petit déjeuner (breakfast) if it's not already included. Most of the time you'll have to inquire first, though, as nothing will be automatically given to you. Also, don't be fooled by the lure of a "minibar." In Morocco, this generally means that there is a small -- and empty -- fridge in your room. However, I've made this distinction in the amenities where applicable (so minibar does indeed mean minibar).

Making advance reservations with many unclassified and inexpensive hotels is usually only achieved over phone, often with reception staff who speak only French, or at best a little English. Most other levels of accommodations will accept reservations by fax or e-mail, requiring a credit card number to confirm the room for you. Many maisons d'hôte and high-end hotels quote in euros but will accept cash payment in either euros or dirham. Most hotels and maisons d'hôte, except the inexpensive establishments within the medina, will accept payment by credit card, but some will add a 5% bank administration fee to your bill, and others will frustratingly advise you when checking out that their machine is broken and request you to draw large sums of cash from an ATM.

A few international chains operate in Morocco, most notably the Hilton in Rabat; the Hyatt and Sheraton in Casablanca; Le Méridien in Casablanca and Marrakech; and Sofitel, which among its seven Moroccan properties are those in Agadir, Essaouira, Fes, Marrakech, and Rabat. The Atlas Hospitality Group (www.hotelsatlas.com) is a Moroccan company with a number of resorts and hotels throughout Morocco. Most of their properties were existing hotels that have been bought by the group and refurbished. Like all chains, they have a certain similarity between them, but the rooms are fitted with quality finishings and are on the whole a very good value. Kenzi Hôtels (www.kenzi-hotels.com) operates 10 hotels in Morocco. The hotels are all four- or five-star, but are generally tired and overpriced, most not having been refurbished since they opened in the late 1980s or early 1990s. A lot of their business comes from large tour groups and Moroccan businessmen. The Ibis hotel chain (www.ibishotel.com) operates a string of midrange hotels throughout Morocco. Their hotels are usually found near transport centers, mainly train stations, and are all styled along similar lines, with compact, functional rooms.

Some websites worth checking out for accommodations in Morocco include www.hipmorocco.com, www.marrakech-medina.com, and www.riadomaroc.com.

Riads, Dars & Maisons d'Hôte -- Morocco's medinas are the ancient walled cities constructed through the ages by the country's various dynasties, protected from invaders by the imposing walls that now separate the medina from the rest of the city. The traditional dwellings within the medina are called riads or dars. The Arabic word riad translates to "garden," while dar simply means "house," and this is the main distinction between the two dwellings. Both typically have no windows onto the street outside, instead having all windows opening inward to an open-air central courtyard that is the heart of the house. The service areas -- kitchen, hammam, and laundry -- are normally on the entrance side near the street.

The courtyard in a true riad has both a fountain and garden, or at least some fruit trees. Riads tend to have many salons on multiple levels, often on all four sides but sometimes on only three sides, with the garden up against the fourth wall. A dar mirrors a riad in much of its design, but is generally smaller. While it might have a fountain, it lacks the central garden in the courtyard. The principal elevating characteristics of both dwellings are their sanctuary from the busy streets outside and their interior courtyards that are open toward the sky.

During the protectorate years, the French created new cities (ville nouveaux) outside the medinas, condemning the medinas to becoming the poor neighborhoods of contemporary Moroccan cities. Moroccan families abandoned their medina dwellings in favor of apartments or villas in the new neighborhoods outside. Rural families, sometimes up to a dozen, moved into the medina houses, paying rent to unscrupulous landlords who kept maintenance of the buildings to a minimum. Toward the end of the 1990s, however, and coinciding with a general surge of tourism interest toward Morocco, some Europeans and prosperous Moroccans began buying and restoring the medina's riads and dars, initially as holiday homes. While abroad, many of these foreign-based owners were faced with security and maintenance concerns of their medina dwellings, and some began to open them as guesthouses, called maisons d'hôte, as a way of paying for these additional year-round expenses.

Regions in Brief

Morocco lies in the far northwestern corner of Africa, across the fabled Straits of Gibraltar from Spain, and was once the western frontier of the known world, called el-Maghreb el-Aksa, or "the Far West." Not including its disputed southern province of the Western Sahara, Morocco is slightly smaller than France or Spain and slightly larger than California, covering an area of 446,500 sq. km (172,395 sq. miles). It's bordered by the Atlantic Ocean to the west, the Mediterranean Sea to the north, and shares borders with Algeria to the east and southeast and Mauritania to the south. A nation of coastline, fertile plains, mountains, and desert, Morocco is a country of distinct geographical regions that have influenced the culture of its inhabitants for hundreds, if not thousands, of years. These geographical and cultural differences, however, are to be found within a relatively compact area, making this country a pleasurable and rewarding place to explore.

Marrakech -- This city is not exactly a region of Morocco, more of a world unto itself. The jet-setting sister of Morocco's four imperial cities, Marrakech is on every traveler's itinerary, and for good reason. Nowhere else is the country's crossroads of cultures more evident than here. This exotic, sexy, pulsating, and confronting city is well and truly on the international scene, and nowadays offers a mesmerizing palette of accommodations, restaurants, festivals, and shopping.

The High Atlas -- Part of the greater Atlas chain that stretches across the country from the Atlantic coast to Algeria and beyond, the High Atlas mountain range is featured on most travelers' itineraries if only because it's the natural barrier between Morocco's coastal, fertile plains and its vast, desert-fringed oases. The "Land of the Berbers," the High Atlas are home to North Africa's highest peaks, including the climber's favorite, the 4,167m-high (13,671-ft.) Jebel Toubkal, along with some of its most beautiful valleys and friendliest people. This is also where many of the country's outdoor activities (trekking, hiking, mountain biking, and even skiing) can be enjoyed.

Central Morocco -- This region of gorges, valleys, and desert is perhaps the quintessential Morocco that most travelers imagine. Like the High Atlas, also inhabited by the country's Berbers, central Morocco offers vistas of mountain gorges and desert valleys, cut deep with lush, green oases called palmeraie. Both the Todra and Dadès Gorges are easily accessed, and along their winding valleys are some of the most scenic areas of the country. Heading away from the mountains, the land flattens out into the stony, pre-Saharan hammada before finally arriving at Morocco's Saharan-fed seas of sand, Erg Chebbi and Erg Chigaga. Out here you can ride a camel into the desert, watch the sun setting over towering sand dunes, and sleep under a starlit African night.

Middle Atlas, Fes & Meknes -- The Middle Atlas is perhaps the prettiest of the country's ranges, covered for its greater part with aromatic forests of pine and cedar. These are broken up by carpets of green pasture, where Berber communities -- some still nomadic -- tend to the herds of cattle and flocks of sheep that feed the country. The Middle Atlas stands watch over the spiritual heart of the country: the former imperial capitals of Fes and Meknes. Fes's ancient walled city, Fes el Bali, is the world's most complete medieval city and is where the first Moroccan dynasty, the Idrissids, built their empire. As with Marrakech, Fes is a popular destination for travelers, many of whom stay in a traditional riad or dar located down one of Fes el Bali's 9,500 alleys and lanes.

Sixty kilometers (37 miles) west of Fes, Meknes was the imperial home of the country's longest reigning and most ruthless ruler, Moulay Ismail. Combined with a visit to the excavated ruins of the Roman city of Volubilis and the pilgrimage village of Moulay Idriss (burial place of the country's "founding father"), Meknes is a hidden gem that delightfully lacks the tourist intensity of Fes.

Northwest Morocco -- The country's northwest sees fewer travelers than the regions to the south, although history records a long list of other visitors, including invaders and rulers, culminating in the Spanish occupation of the first half of the 20th century. Tangier, a seething, sleazy free-for-all between the 1920s and 1950s, has cleaned its act up recently, and is fast creating itself a niche as a vibrant, affordable Mediterranean resort.

The fishing village of Asilah is home to one of the country's most popular festivals, where artists paint murals on the walls within its quaint medina. Asilah still exudes a village charm, and is a great first stop for those traveling south from Tangier.

The Rif mountain range is the natural border between Europe and Africa. The mountainside village of Chefchaouen resisted Spanish occupation for 8 years, and before that resisted all Western influence for more than 400 years. Today this picturesque, blue-washed village is a backpacker favorite, thanks largely to its kif (hashish)-induced relaxed vibe.

Atlantic Coast -- Morocco's Atlantic coastline is its most populated region, home to the nation's political and business centers. From the mouth of the Bou Regreg river, Rabat's inhabitants have seen conquerors (which have included pirates) come and go. It's a pleasant city that betrays its title as the country's capital, and its medina and kasbah are remarkably easy to get around.

Most travelers only stop in Casablanca to connect to other destinations in the country, but it is the nation's heaving, gritty, working heart, home to more than three million people, all looking for work in a city built by the French due to Tangier's "internationalization." The coastline south of Casablanca is packed with Moroccan holidaymakers every August and delightfully quiet for the rest of the year, other than the large flocks of birds making a stop on their migration between Europe and Africa. Casablanca is also home to one of the world's largest places of worship, the Hassan II Mosque.

The village of Oualidia overlooks a large natural lagoon and is fast becoming a summer destination for in-the-know European holidaymakers. To the south are the country's best surf spots, including the windsurfing town of Essaouira, home to perhaps the country's prettiest medina and one of its major music festivals.

Southern Morocco -- Besides the beach resort city of Agadir and the popular surfing spots to the city's north, much of this region sees few travelers. It's a pity, because beyond its coastline is the Anti-Atlas mountain range, dotted with villages and palmeraie surrounded by a unique mountain/desert landscape.

The walled town of Taroudannt is dubbed "Little Marrakech," but is much more than just a facsimile of its better-known big sister to the north. Taroudannt is perhaps the one major town in Morocco that's still largely unaware of its attraction to, and therefore its reliance on, tourists. Wandering around its streets and lanes opens up a window on the everyday lives of Moroccans that is hard to come by in the country's better-known spots.

Getting There

By Plane

In 2006, the Moroccan government, in conjunction with Mohammed VI's desire to dramatically increase tourism arrivals, invoked an open-skies policy on the country's air transport sector. Several low-cost European airlines leapt at the opportunity, resulting in decidedly more flight arrivals, especially into the tourist hubs of Agadir, Fes, and Marrakech.

Scheduled international flights fly directly into a number of airports in Morocco: Agadir (AGA), Casablanca (CAS), Fes (FEZ), Marrakech (RAK), Ouarzazate (OZZ), Rabat (RBA), and Tangier (TNG). Casablanca is the country's major airport and hub for the national carrier, Royal Air Maroc. If you're flying from anywhere other than Europe, then more than likely your flight will touch down here. Domestic connections are plentiful, and the airport is connected to the national rail network. North American flights, as well as those from Germany, Italy, and the Netherlands, operate from Terminal 3, a short shuttle ride from terminals 1 and 2, where all other flights are operated from and where the main arrivals and departures buildings are located.

If you're departing from Europe, then flying directly into one of the country's other airports is definitely possible, and the decision whether to do so comes down to which destination you wish to begin your journey and the frequency of flights available. All the airports mentioned above are located out of town, but taxis are usually always parked outside to meet incoming flights, or transfers can be prearranged with your hotel.

When departing Morocco, the departure tax is already included in the cost of your ticket, and most airport bureaux de change will change your dirham (notes only) back into euros or sometimes U.S. dollars. There are duty-free shops past the immigration counters, but they won't accept dirham, only euros, British pounds, and U.S. dollars.

The national air carrier is Royal Air Maroc (tel. 09000/0800 toll-free in Morocco; www.royalairmaroc.com), which has offices in most major Moroccan cities, as well as in the U.K., Langham House, 32-33 Gosfield St., London, W1W 6ED (tel. 020/7307-5800), and the U.S., 666 5th Ave., New York, NY 10103 (tel. 800/446-726 or 974/385-053). Since 2004, Royal Air Maroc also operates a subsidiary low-cost international airline called Atlas Blue (tel. 08020/09090 within Morocco, or 020/7307-5803 within the U.K.; www.atlas-blue.com). There are flights from a good selection of European destinations including London, and most of them fly directly into Marrakech. Although their prices are reasonably competitive with other budget airlines, they are notorious for experiencing delays and canceling flights.

Regional Airlines (tel. 0802/000082 within Morocco, or 902/180-151 within Spain; www.regionalmaroc.com) is largely a domestic carrier within Morocco, but they have a few flights into Agadir, Casablanca, and Tangier from mainly Spanish destinations.

By Car

Be sure to ask your rental agency about additional fees for insurance and taxes. They can add a significant cost to your car rental.

By Boat

Traveling by sea is a wonderful, almost spiritual, way to arrive in Morocco. When sailing from the Spanish port of Algeciras -- the most popular point of departure -- the Rock of Gibraltar is visible for quite some time before finally fading away into the Mediterranean mist. However, it's not long before the silhouettes of Tangier's minarets appear in the distance.

As mentioned, the most popular route operates between Algeciras and Tangier, and during the peak August holiday month, ferries run every hour almost around the clock. Popular alternative routes include Algeciras to Ceuta and Tarifa to Tangier, though Tarifa is not an "international" port, thus only E.U. passport holders can travel on this route. The crossing from Algeciras to Tangier can take between 80 minutes and 3 hours, depending on the ship, and currently costs range from 35€ to 42€ per person. The companies crossing from Algeciras to Ceuta all operate fast catamarans, taking only 35 minutes; the cost is currently 38€ per person. Note: It's worth remembering that Ceuta is still on Spanish soil, which means the port is void of all the border formalities experienced in Tangier. If you're traveling independently, you'll have to catch local bus no. 7 (.75€) or a taxi (3.80€) from the center of Ceuta to the border. Crossing from Tarifa to Tangier is also by catamaran and takes 35 minutes. The current fare is 38€ per person.

The ferry companies operating between Morocco and Europe are:

• Acciona Trasmediterranea (tel. 902/454645 within Spain; www.trasmediterranea.es): One of the largest companies, sailing between Algeciras and both Ceuta and Tangier; Almeria and Malaga to the Spanish enclave of Melilla; and Almeria to Nador.

Ferries will always have an onboard restaurant serving meals and drinks, but sometimes not much else. Note: Payment, no matter which direction you're heading, is almost always only accepted in euros. Tickets can always be purchased at each company's office or ticket booth located at the ferry terminals. Don't be swayed by any talk of "last ferry leaves now" or "cheapest ticket here" by hustlers.

Tips for Jewish Travelers

Jews first set foot in Morocco in pre-Christian times, accompanying the Phoenicians on their trade excursions along the country's coastline. Jews also joined waves of Muslims escaping persecution during the Christian conquests of southern Spain. Since the Arab Islamic invasions from the 8th century onward, the two faiths have coexisted mostly in peace, although at times the Jews were used as scapegoats or favored purely for their business acumen. The silversmiths of today are also a product of the craft practiced by many Moroccan Jews up until as late as the 20th century. Prior to World War II, the Jewish population was around 225,000, and although no Jews were sent to concentration camps, they did suffer acts of humiliation under the French Vichy government. After the war, a steady stream of immigration to Israel turned into a flood after independence in 1956, and today's population of Moroccan Jews is considered to number around 10,000 at the most.

Since independence, the ruling Alaouite dynasty has continued a tradition of tolerance and support toward the country's Jewish minority. Hassan II was particularly active in the 1980s in trying to bring peace to the Israeli/Palestine conflict. King Mohammed VI has inherited his father's tolerance, with the appointment of prominent Jewish citizen André Azoulay as one of his royal advisors. In 2000, after two youths vandalized a Tangier synagogue, Mohammed VI appeared on television, decrying the act of interfaith disrespect; the two youths were subsequently sentenced to a year in prison. In 2003, a coordinated series of suicide bombs targeted both Western and Jewish businesses in Casablanca. It's debatable whether the attacks were an act of anti-Semitism or were more of an assault on the country's social and political order, the king himself, and the West in general.

In times past, Jews traditionally lived in a part of the medina called the Mellah. Most have now moved out into the ville nouvelle, although some old synagogues still remain. The majority live in Casablanca, where a visit to the only Jewish museum in the Arabic world is well worth the time. Morocco's Jews are an aging population, as most Jewish youths travel to Israel, the U.S., and France to study.

Jewish travelers in Morocco needn't take any special precautions other than those concerning all travelers. The Conseil des Communautes Israelites du Maroc (CCIM; tel. 0522/222861; comjuive@mail.cbi.net.ma) is based in Casablanca and represents the Jewish community in most matters within Morocco. Morocco Custom Travel (tel. 866/966-7622 toll-free or 209/466-3105; www.moroccocustomtravel.com) is a specialist in tailor-made itineraries and tours to Morocco, with suggested itineraries that include "Spiritual Morocco," which focuses specifically on the country's long Jewish history.

Tips for Families

Moroccans are extremely family oriented, and children are an important and very visible part of Moroccan society. Traveling with your small children will undoubtedly attract more attention (in a good way) and may very well turn your holiday into something memorable, as shopkeepers wave you into their stores, waiters offer you free cups of tea, and local guides invite you home to meet their family. As with most Arabic cultures, children generally stay up later then those in the West, playing unsupervised and being sent on errands.

On a practical level, there are a few challenges that will be faced in Morocco when traveling with babies or small children. Baby-changing facilities are nonexistent, and while disposable diapers are available in the supermarket chains and some pharmacies, you'll be lucky to find them outside of the cities and larger towns. Other specific items such as special foods and sunscreen are also best brought from home. Heating up formula should never be a problem, as cafes -- and boiling water -- are found everywhere, as is long-life milk. My suggestion is to look for the national supermarket chains Acima and Marjane. These French-owned supermarkets are like any in the Western world and are good places to stock up on supplies for your children. I've mentioned them in the relevant "Shopping" sections throughout the book.

Most hotels allow children 11 and under to sleep in their parent's room. Children 1 and under (and sometimes up to 6) are usually free. Children 11 and under are usually charged half price. However, you should definitely inquire as to the size of the room before handing over any money. Quite often the hotel will be leaving you to your own devices when it comes to sleeping configurations; what's in the room is all that you'll get. Sometimes it's worth considering the expense of a larger suite or asking for two cheaper interconnecting rooms. Some maisons d'hôte don't accept children, as the thin, echoing walls and thin, narrow staircases aren't exactly child friendly. Many mid- to top-range hotels and maisons d'hôte will gladly organize a babysitter for you, although specific English-speaking babysitters may need to be organized well in advance.

Traveling by public transport with children can be both challenging and rewarding. On buses and in grands taxis, children small enough to share your seat or sit on your lap can usually travel for free. If not, you will probably be charged full fare. Train travel is a great way to get around and obviously allows little ones to move around a lot more. Children 3 and under travel free, while those 11 and under are charged half fare. While most international car-rental firms proclaim to offer baby or child seats, you'll be best to make sure of this in advance.

Take note of my words regarding the summertime heat, remembering that children are more susceptible to dehydration and heat stroke, as well as the most common ailment befalling most tourists in Morocco -- traveler's diarrhea.

U.K. travel company Panorama (tel. 0871/664-7984; www.panoramaholidays.co.uk) has packages for families to Agadir, Essaouira, Marrakech, and Ouarzazate. Families Worldwide (tel. 0845/051-4567; www.familiesworldwide.co.uk) is also based in the U.K. and offers specialist family tours to Morocco with itineraries that include hiking and camel trekking, as well as a general sightseeing tour. Abercrombie & Kent offers a "Moroccan Adventure" tour that is geared toward families, and includes a mixed offering of hands-on adventures and child-friendly activities.

Tip: If your child is big enough to play football (soccer in the U.S.), bring along a ball. It's the national game of Morocco and is played on any bare patch of ground (including medina alleyways) at any time of the day and half the night. Your child will be "king for a day" once the local kids see the ball.

Recommended family-travel websites include Family Travel Forum (www.familytravelforum.com), a comprehensive site that offers customized trip planning; Family Travel Network (www.familytravelnetwork.com), an online magazine providing travel tips; and TravelWithYourKids.com, a comprehensive site written by parents for parents offering sound advice for long-distance and international travel with children.

When to Go

Morocco's peak holiday season is from July to September and is as much influenced by Moroccans returning home for their annual holiday as it is by international tourists. This is Morocco's summertime, when the whole country seems to enter holiday mode. The streets are noisier, the beaches are jampacked, and temperatures -- both physically and metaphorically -- can soar. Many Moroccans live and work on mainland Europe, and they all seem to take the month of August off to head back to the motherland. Most travel overland in their own vehicles, with seemingly everything bar the kitchen sink strapped to the rooftop, and the congestion at the main ferry ports can be horrendous, especially at the beginning and the end of August. Some maisons d'hôte in Fes and Marrakech close their doors for the month of August to escape the heat and the congested streets.

Also keep in mind the Islamic fasting month of Ramadan. During this time, daytime travels and activities may be curtailed or achieved with a noted lack of local enthusiasm. However, to be in the country during this spiritual time, and to witness the happy, festive atmosphere at nighttime, can more than offset any travel inconveniences.

Weather -- Morocco's summertime heat can have a major influence on the enjoyment of your time in the country and should be taken into consideration when planning your trip. The country's vast coastline is a magnet for locals and visitors alike during summer, with long, sunny days that are cooled by afternoon sea breezes. The higher reaches of the High Atlas, Middle Atlas, and Rif mountains are also pleasant escapes from the heat down on the plains. Traveling inland during this time -- especially in central and southern Morocco but also Marrakech, Fes, and Meknes -- is extremely uncomfortable.

Spring is considered the best season to experience Morocco. From late March to the end of May, central and southern Morocco are bathed in gloriously warm sunshine, the coast is beginning to warm up, and the mountains, some still hopefully snow topped, come into their own with crisp, fresh air and none of the haze of the ensuing months.

Central and southern Morocco, as well as Marrakech, offer crisp, sunny days during the colder months (Nov-Mar), but be warned that the nights can be exceptionally cold. Mountain trekkers should also be aware that Morocco's mountainous regions are susceptible to flash flooding during winter (from rainfall) and spring (from melting snow). Roads and villages have been washed away in the past.

Holidays -- Two types of holidays are celebrated in Morocco. National public holidays (fêtes nationales) commemorate important dates in the country's more recent history, as well as general Western holidays. All banks, post offices, and government departments, and some shops will close on these days, though public transport is only slightly reduced. These holidays are New Year's Day (Jan 1); commemoration of the Istiqlal Party's Independence Manifesto (Jan 11); Labor Day (May 1); Fête du Throne (July 30); Allegiance Day (Aug 14); Revolution Day (Aug 20); Youth Day (Aug 21); anniversary of the Green March (Nov 6); and Independence Day (Nov 18). The Western public holidays of Good Friday, Easter Monday, Christmas Day, and Boxing Day are sometimes also taken as holidays by some workers, though they are not official public holidays.

Islamic holidays are observed countrywide by all Moroccans, and some can last for 2 days. These holidays are influenced by the lunar-based Islamic, or hejira, calendar, which is roughly 11 days shorter than the Western Gregorian calendar and began in the year A.D. 579, when the Prophet Mohammed was born. Exact dates in the lunar calendar depend upon each new moon, and the holidays listed below are only approximate, having been calculated in advance by Islamic authorities in Fes. The most spiritual time during the Islamic year is the month-long fast of Ramadan. The four most important Islamic holidays in Morocco are Eid al Fitr, the Feast of the Breaking of the Fast after Ramadan; Eid al Adha; Ras as-Sana, the first day of the Muslim New Year; and Mouloud, the Prophet Mohammed's birthday.

The following are a list of major Islamic holidays and their dates for 2010 and 2011: Ramadan (Aug 11, Aug 1); Eid al Fitr (Sept 10, Aug 30); Eid al Adha (Nov 17, Nov 6); Ras as-Sana (Dec 7, Nov 26); and Mouloud (Feb 26, Feb 15).

Money

Frommer's lists exact prices in the local currency. The currency conversions quoted above were correct at press time. However, rates fluctuate, so before departing consult a currency exchange website such as www.oanda.com/convert/classic to check up-to-the-minute rates.

On the whole, Morocco is inexpensive by Western standards. Moroccans tend to haggle over prices and accept that others will do the same, especially in the country's markets, or souks. The cost of certain services -- such as guides, car rental, and mechanical services -- can also be negotiated. However, in businesses such as restaurants and grocery, hardware, electrical, and fashion stores, prices are generally fixed. In the bigger cities, prices for virtually everything are higher, especially in the main tourist centers of Marrakech, Agadir, Fes, and Casablanca. In addition to this, prices can rise for public transport and in hotels and restaurants over the post-Ramadan feasts of Eid al Fitr and Eid al Adha, and again in the main tourist centers over the Easter and Christmas/New Year holiday periods.

Currency

Morocco's official currency is the dirham (MAD; abbreviated to dh within Morocco), divided into 100 centimes. Coins are issued in denominations of 1dh, 2dh, 5dh, and 10dh, as well as 10, 20, and 50 centimes. Banknotes are issued in denominations of 20, 50, 100, and 200. The dirham is a restricted currency and can't be taken out of the country, is not traded, and theoretically isn't available abroad (I have heard of travelers finding the odd bureau de change in London and at Gatwick airport that has a supply). The currency is stable and hasn't fluctuated too much in recent times, even during the global financial crisis.

Exchanging Money -- Morocco is still very much a cash society. Throughout the country, it's very difficult to cash traveler's checks or use credit cards. Euros are by far the easiest foreign currency to exchange, and are often accepted as payment if you don't have any dirham on hand. U.S. dollars and British pounds can be exchanged at banks and bureaux de change, but will rarely be accepted as payment. Frustratingly, most banks, as well as bureaux de change, do not exchange pre-2000 U.S. notes or the new F-series British pound notes that began circulation in early 2007. Throughout the country you'll also come up against a blanket refusal by any Moroccan to accept any dirham note that is damaged (that includes the slightest tear). The national reserve bank, Bank al Maghrib, will accept all of these, and can be found in each large city. Note: Scottish pounds and Australian, Canadian, and New Zealand dollars are not exchangeable in Morocco.

As the dirham isn't traded internationally, there's no money-changing black market, and exchange rates vary marginally between banks, bureaux de change, and even most hotels. Changing money at a bureau de change is quicker than at banks, although some banks do have dedicated booths just for money exchange.

There is always a problem making change in Morocco, and it's often difficult to pay with large banknotes. Always be on the lookout for smaller denomination (10 and 20) bank notes and dirham coins, as this will make your life easier during the daily trials of tipping for services and paying for inexpensive everyday goods such as bottled water. Good places to break down a large note are the Acima and Marjane supermarkets (noted throughout the "Shopping" sections of each destination) or at the tollbooths on the nation's auto routes (if you are self-driving).

You can usually exchange dirham back into hard currency -- usually only euros -- at major airports around the country. They may ask for an exchange receipt, so keep a few handy along your travels. Duty-free shops past the immigration counters do not accept dirham. If traveling by ferry from Tangier, you can try to re-exchange dirham at the bureaux de change at the port entrance or with money changers in Algeciras. Money changers at the Ceuta/Morocco border will do this as well.

ATMs

The easiest and best way to get cash away from home is from an ATM (automated teller machine), sometimes referred to as a "cash machine" or a "cashpoint." The Cirrus (tel. 800/424-7787; www.mastercard.com) and PLUS (tel. 800/843-7587; www.visa.com) networks span the globe. Go to your bank card's website to find ATM locations at your destination. Be sure you know your daily withdrawal limit before you depart.

Some ATMs in Morocco only accept a four-digit personal identification number (PIN); change your five- and six-digit PIN before you're in Morocco. Without the PIN, you can't use the card at an ATM or within a branch, unless it is a credit card, where you can make a cash advance within some banks and bureaux de change. Note: Many banks impose a fee every time you use a card at another bank's ATM, and that fee can be higher for international transactions than for domestic ones. In addition, the bank from which you withdraw cash may charge its own fee. For international withdrawal fees, ask your bank.

Credit Cards

Credit cards are another safe way to carry money. They also provide a convenient record of all your expenses, and they generally offer relatively good exchange rates. You can withdraw cash advances from your credit cards at banks or ATMs, but high fees make credit card cash advances a pricey way to get cash. Keep in mind that you'll pay interest from the moment of your withdrawal, even if you pay your monthly bills on time. Also, note that many banks now assess a 1% to 3% "transaction fee" on all charges you incur abroad (whether you're using the local currency or your native currency).

It's best not to completely rely on being able to use your credit card when shopping in Morocco. Some large, tourist-friendly shops, especially the carpet emporiums, will have the necessary equipment, but when paying for smaller purchases, cash will be the only form of payment accepted. If you are using your credit card, be aware of the full amount being charged to your card prior to signing off the transaction. The transaction should be in dirham, so be aware of the current exchange rates. Make sure the amount on the transaction slip is clear and concise, and on no occasion agree to signing multiple slips for monthly payments, as there's every chance the slips will be banked all at once, and the door is also left open for those slips to be doctored.

When it's possible to pay for goods and services by credit card, MasterCard and Visa are accepted, but rarely American Express. Diners Club and Discover cards are not accepted in Morocco.

Traveler's Checks

Exchanging traveler's checks can be difficult in Morocco. Most banks and bureaux de change exchange cash only -- or will make it plainly obvious that they would prefer not to exchange traveler's checks by asking for all manner of identification and proof of purchase. Personal experience recommends wherever you find an establishment accepting traveler's checks, plan ahead and exchange a bit more than you budgeted. I've found most success with the banks along Tangier's avenue Mohammed V and at branches of the national reserve bank, Bank al Maghrib, throughout the country.

The most common traveler's checks accepted in Morocco -- in either euros, U.S. dollars, or British pounds -- are those offered by American Express (tel. 800/807-6233, or 800/221-7282 for cardholders -- this number accepts collect calls, offers service in several foreign languages, and exempts Amex gold and platinum cardholders from the 1% fee); Visa (tel. 800/732-1322 -- AAA members can obtain Visa checks for a $9.95 fee for checks up to $1,500 at most AAA offices or by calling tel. 866/339-3378); and MasterCard (tel. 800/223-9920).

Be sure to keep a record of the traveler's checks serial numbers separate from your checks in the event that they are stolen or lost. You'll get a refund faster if you know the numbers.