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Nafplion has some of the best hotels in the Peloponnese, ranging from small boutique hotels to large luxury establishments. Be sure to make a reservation if you want a view of the harbor or if you will be here during a performance at Epidaurus, when tour groups reserve entire hotels. Otherwise, Nafplion has enough hotels that you can usually find a room, although you may end up on the outskirts in high season. Warning: Many hotels are up steep streets and have no elevators and no parking.

If you arrive without a reservation and have trouble finding a room, try the Municipal Tourist Office, 25 Martiou (tel. 27520/24-444), across from the bus station. They can sometimes find rooms in small pensions. In addition to the hotels below, here are a few other possibilities. Nafplion's 172-room Amalia (www.amaliahotels.com) had declined dreadfully, so it's good to say that it is spruced up after a renovation in 2008. If you don't mind being outside of Nafplion itself and want to relax in a big swimming pool, think Amalia. Like all Amalia Hotels, this one has extensive gardens; large, comfortable rooms; large bathrooms; efficient, attentive service -- and lots of tour groups and wedding parties. Doubles start from 150€.

If you feel like a splurge, check out the 42-unit Amphitryon, transformed from its down-at-the-heels days into a five-star member of the Leading Small Hotels of the World (www.amphitryon.gr, or www.helioshotels.gr; tel. 27520/70-700). The Amphitryon has gorgeous flower arrangements, enormous bathrooms with fiendishly clever showers, pool privileges up the hill at the Nafplia Palace Hotel, and promises "romantic moments in an ambience of privileged scenery." Doubles start at 250€.

If, like me, you'd prefer the ambience of the pleasant residential neighborhood around Ayios Spiridon church, try the 21-unit Pension Acronafplia (www.pensionacronafplia.gr; tel. 27520/24-481). The pension occupies five restored town houses whose congenial accommodations range from simple (small room, no private bathroom) to elegant (large room, private bathroom, and balcony with harbor view). Doubles range from small and simple, with no view, 45€, to large, very comfortable, with a grand view over Nafplion, 130€. If you want to stay with trendy young Greeks, try the jointly owned very artsy Amymone and Adiani boutique hotels, with 15 rooms in two buildings just off the harbor. This is the place to try if you've always wanted to sleep in a bed with a giant fly or the Blues Brothers painted on the headboard (www.hotel-adiandi-com; tel. 27520-22073, doubles from 90€-200€).

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Note: This information was accurate when it was published, but can change without notice. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.