Things To Do in Nancy

The most monumental square in eastern France, and the heart of Nancy, is place Stanislas, named for Stanislas Leszczynski, the last of the ducs de Lorraine, ex-king of Poland, and father-in-law of Louis XV. It is pictured above. His 18th-century building programs transformed Nancy into one of Europe's most palatial cities. The square stands between Nancy's two most notable neighborhoods: the Ville Vieille (old town), in the medieval core, centered on the cathedral, Grande-Rue, and the labyrinth of narrow meandering streets that funnel into it; and the Ville Neuve, in the southwest. Built in the 16th and 17th centuries, when streets were laid out in straight lines, Ville Neuve centers on rue St-Jean.

Place Stanislas was laid out from 1752 to 1760 according to the designs of Emmanuel Héré. Its ironwork gates are magnificent. The square is fabled for the brilliant and fanciful railings, the work of Jean Lamour. His gilded railings with flowery decorations and crests evoke Versailles. The entire plaza is an all-pedestrian zone.

The Arc de Triomphe, constructed by Stanislas from 1754 to 1756 to honor Louis XV, adjoins the place de la Carrière, a tree-lined promenade leading to the 1760 Palais du Gouvernement. This governmental palace adjoins the Palais Ducal, built in 1502 in the Gothic style with Flamboyant Gothic balconies.

The famous French macaron almond flour cookie is said to have been invented in Nancy by Benedictine nuns. Maison des Soeurs Macarons, see above, 21 rue Gambetta (www.macaron-de-nancy.com; tel. 03-83-32-24-25), follows the original recipe.  Another good place to acquire them in addition to another traditional Nancy specialty, Bergamotte candies, is at the pretty shop Lefèvre Lemoine, 7 rue Henri Poincaré (📞 03-83-30-13-83).

Though larger and more expensive, Art Nouveau antiques also make excellent souvenirs of Nancy. Visit Denis Rugat, 13 rue Stanislas (tel. 03-83-35-20-79), for the best pieces. It stocks Lalique crystal, brightly colored vases, and enameled boxes made with a technique known locally as les émaux de Longwy, plus an assortment of glass-shaded lamps.

You’ll find more glass and crystal by Daum, at more reasonable prices than virtually anywhere else in France. The company’s premier outlet is Boutique Daum, 14 pl. Stanislas (https://daum.fr; tel. 03-83-32-21-65), where the most perfect specimens from the Daum factory are sold at prices that are usually about 30 percent less than what you’d pay in other glass galleries in France. Or for savings of 30 to 40 percent less than what’s sold in the above-mentioned boutique, you can seek out Daum’s factory outlet, Magasin d’Usine Daum, 17 rue Cristallerie (tel. 03-83-30-80-24), a 5-minute walk from the place Stanislas, its pieces are slightly flawed.

As night approaches, most of the student population heads to the Old Town. Young Nancéiens start their night with a drink at Le Pinocchio, 9 pl. Saint Epvre (tel. 03-83-35-55-95); its terrace facing the Saint Epyre church is the best place to enjoy a pint or glass of chilled wine in summer. Beer fans are camped out further along the square at Nancy’s leading bar à biere LeCh’timi, 17 Pl. Saint-Epvre (www.facebook.com/LeChtimiNancy; tel. 03-83-32-82-76), which stocks over 100 different types of hoppy delights.

Nancy’s most popular dance club is Les Caves, 9 pl. Stanislas (www.facebook.com/lescavesnancy; tel. 07-89-59-74-76), where a techno crowd flails around in a chrome-and-metallic space. It’s open Wednesday and Thursday 11:45pm to 4am and Friday and Saturday 11:45pm to 5am.

Work up a more casual sweat at Ruin Bär (www.facebook.com/ruinbarnancy; tel. 06-68-56-07-09). Inspired by the "ruin bars” of Budapest, this festive venue, decked out in street art and flea-market furnishings, attracts all ages who bust a move on the dance-floor to everything from salsa to house. It’s open Tuesday to Sunday