Chef Mario Avallone prepares some of the most innovative food in town, and he offers it two ways: In a casual, ground-floor cheese bar/osteria (Squistezze) and in a simple-but-stylish upstairs restaurant. Downstairs, daily offerings are written on blackboards and include the best lunch deal in town—a main course of the day, dessert, wine, water, and coffee for 13€. Or, you can pair cheese and salumi (cured meats) with carefully chosen wines or what is probably the city’s largest selection of craft beers (the staff makes suggestions) or tuck into hearty salads and several unusual specialties, such as arancino di mare, a fresh take on classic fried rice balls, in this case concealing a core of fresh seafood. Upstairs, locally sourced ingredients find their way into dishes that you’ll probably want to enjoy on one of several tasting menus that start at 35€; choose one that includes the variazione di baccalà, an amazing presentation of salt cod prepared in several different ways.