Now safely tucked into its new, much larger home in the Gulch, chef Matt Bolus’s 404 Kitchen is without the limitations placed on it by the original storage container where it lived (and where Emmy Squared now serves excellent Detroit-style pizza). The restaurant’s modern take on classic European cuisine emphasizes local, seasonal fare with an Italian bent. The burrata is a study in perfection with house-made buffalo-milk cheese delicately enveloping mozzarella. One day it might sit on carrot purée with bitter greens and citrus; the next it will be spaghetti squash, hazelnuts, and pork stock. Bolus is known for his ability to cook fish—the Benton’s ham-wrapped trout is a salty, meaty stunner—and his sides are not to be missed. Think crusty skillets of cornbread with barrel-aged sorghum butter and “mayonnaise salad,” which is a vastly improved version of the chilled pea salad you may have had once at a church picnic, and is studded with smoked pork jowl, cucumber, and mint. Sunday brings a fun dim sum–style Southern brunch.