Located in the up-and-coming neighborhood of Wedgewood/Houston, Bastion adopts a choose-your-own-adventure approach to its tasting menu. By choosing your own courses, you’ve got freedom from your dining companion and also a less frumpy, slightly less expensive way to eat crazy-sophisticated food. The restaurant is helmed by Josh Habiger, who launched The Catbird Seat years ago. Habiger is an excellent chef who’s also approachable in a way that’s rare for a chef of his caliber. He likes talking to people, which makes tasting his food a richer experience, and he doesn’t take himself too seriously, having pho pop-ups and movie nights frequently at the restaurant. Dishes include items like a fennel/pear salad with brown butter, scallop crudo with buttermilk and tarragon, and lamb tartare wrapped in shiso leaves for a Japanese umami extravaganza. He’s got an uncanny ability to balance familiar flavors with ingredients you’ve never heard of. Exposed brick, a casual semi-circle bar (where you should request to sit), and a turntable spinning Habiger’s own vinyl selection lend an air of modernity without pretension. On the bar side—a funky, spacious spot—you can pair top-notch cocktails with just one thing: the best nachos in town. Pulled pork, melted cheese, radishes, pickled onions, and an avocado crema combine to make an appetizer that has no equal.