The Gray & Dudley building was constructed in 1990 and today offers a restaurant with a bit of a Cruella Deville vibe—in a good way—in that there are two spaces on offer: a bright, mirrored dining room with a hearth for cooking, and a bar area that is all dark wood, dramatic ceilings, and beautifully grotesque art. The food itself isn’t fussy, but they do take liberties with the classics. Start with lumpia, an Indonesian egg roll with a thin, crepe-pastry wrapper, which is stuffed with country ham and shrimp and comes with a soy-sorghum dipping sauce. The burger is a comfort food masterpiece: American cheese, charred onions, pickles, and a special sauce, served with utterly perfect fries and malt-vinegar mayo, which is rich, tangy, and addictive. To finish, you must get the baked-to-order chocolate chip cookies with sea salt and ice cream.