The upbeat atmosphere, bright industrial space, and 4-ton oven are a good indication that you’re going to have a good time and good food at Nicky’s without all the fuss that can come from fine dining. Named “ENRICO” after chef Tony Galzin’s great-grandfather, the coal-fired oven informs many dishes, none more than the pizza. All of the pizzas are good, but the perfect pepperoni is a real paragon with a sourdough crust that’s impossibly thin and crisp, peppery tomato sauce, house-made pepperoni, melty mozzarella, and zingy slices of red onion. The pastas are also crafted in house, change seasonally, and are all stunners, but I recommend going with any one that involves any sort of ragu. The red wine campanelle and spicy squid ink with octopus in red sauce are always good choices. Nicky’s also offers house-made antipasti, wine on draft, a full menu of Italian aperitifs, and almond gelato that rivals anything in Italy and blows the typical pistachio out of the water. Sunday brunch is a stellar, laid-back affair and a great time to watch a game or sip an Aperol Spritz on their gorgeous patio.