With an atmosphere that’s somehow warm and moody and chic all at once, Rolf and Daughters is skilled at combing weird and familiar flavors to make revelatory combinations. Their homemade sourdough with seaweed butter is a great example, as is one of their signature dishes: a shaved, raw butternut squash salad that comes topped with pumpkin seeds and piquant cheese. (They do other riffs on shaved salad at their East Nashville spot, Folk.) Their tartare is always stellar, and the cecamariti pasta with cultured butter and black pepper is basically a Cacio e Pepe on steroids with thick, tender noodles the size of green beans—which I always call “little worms” to their friendly horror—and they are creamy, comforting, and fun as hell to slurp. This place gets packed fast, so make a reservation. If you forget, you can always hope to get lucky with a bar seat, where you should order one of the city’s best Old Fashioneds.