If Urban Cowboy Public House seems like just another hipster haven, know this: It may be that, but it’s so much more. The no-reservations, no-server setup keeps things casual so big-talent chefs (many of whom previously worked at ultra-fine-dining establishments like The Catbird Seat, including head chef Tom Bayless) can turn the East Nashville hangout into their own culinary playground. The vibe is fun: Smoke billows from the fire pit, wrestlers adorn table cards, and a pitch-perfect 1980s playlist pulses in the background. The rotating menu is cooked on a setup similar to an Argentinian grill, which lends smoky notes to every dish. Think roasted spaghetti squash draped in raclette cheese, made to smear on toasty sourdough; smoked chicken with super crispy, golden skin and perfect, juicy meat; or, if you catch them during their elusive Sunday brunch (mid-April to Labor Day only), try any sandwich they’re offering, such as a deconstructed crab roll, Japanese egg salad, or the super-seasonal tomato and mayo. In all dishes, you’ll notice a restrained confidence that only great chefs have. And you’ll find that the delicious, inventive cocktails (Basil Gimlet, Rosé Paloma) are often the most expensive things on the menu at $13.