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Le Veau d’Or

Remember that episode of The Marvelous Mrs. Maisel when she went to the fabulous French restaurant and had a blowout feast? Neither do I, but if that TV show had done that, they would have filmed it in this perfect early 1960s throwback, with its low ceilings, red-checkered tablecloths, inlaid wood walls, and a menu that harks back to when floating island desserts were the height of sophistication (they may be again soon, frankly, when other chefs have tasted the scrumptious version here). Reopened by the team behind Frenchette and Le Rock , this culinary time capsule gives classic Gallic dishes the respect they deserve—like escargot, served not in the shell but in separate little cups where they can be sufficiently doused in a garlicky green sauce. At the other end of the color wheel, the duck breast with zippy cherry sauce is a smile on a plate. Meals are prix fixe only, but at $135 for five courses (an excellent salad, bread, and an extra dessert are part of the deal) this is far from the priciest restaurant in the city, though it ain’t cheap. A really fun addition to Gotham’s dining scene.