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Palermo’s most romantic landmark is a simple affair, part Arab, part Norman, with five red domes atop a portico, a single nave, two small apses, and a squat tower. As befits the humble Spanish recluse it honors, St. John of the Hermits, the church is almost devoid of decoration, though the surrounding citrus blossoms and flowers imbue the modest structure with an other-worldliness all its own. Adding to the charms of the spot is a Norman cloister, with a Moorish cistern in the center, part of the original Benedictine monastery that once stood here.